Thank you to Ruipro for sponsoring this video! Buy the Ruipro HDMI 2.1 Certified Fiber Optic Cable (6FT): amzn.to/3wvHB7j Buy the Ruipro HDMI 2.1 Certified Fiber Optic Cable (25FT): amzn.to/432NDGS Buy Ruipro Cables: ruipro.store/collections/all PLEASE SUPPORT My Work (Guides & Discord): patreon.com/TheDisplayGuy HDR Shadow Detail Test: www.avsforum.com/threads/hdr10-test-patterns-set.2943380/ SDR Shadow Detail Test: www.avsforum.com/attachments/nearblack16-27-zip.1661825/ Another great video on this subject: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ti6-BAW3IbA.html
I've got an LG C1 and the first thing I learned was to correct the black levels with the brightness control. I've settled with 56 in HDR and 52 in SDR as starting points. The source material varies greatly and sometimes the number may have to go down or up. But it's usually a very quick adjustment at the start of the video without need to readjust. Watching TV on my friend's Sony Mini-LED I miss the true blacks and no blooming of OLED. It's so worth having an OLED that only requires a very quick adjustment to black level at the start of a video stream to make the picture ideal.
Doesn't Black Stabilizer do the same? I have mine at 12 on LG C2 for more shadow revealing in dark movies. It does show all the black steps in the HDR Shadow detail test and absolute black is still black so it seem to be the better setting to use?
How many hours does this panel has? It is not recommended at all to change the brightness setting that much. If there is a black level crush then a professional calibration can fix it.
I really want an QD-OLED monitor, but I plan to wait for that QD OLED Inkjet Printed Glossy and hope I can get it in 4K 240Hz. Next year? 2026? or QD-OLED goes bust and something better comes along first. I know you hate the Odessey Neo G8 Mini-LED, but I'm happy with mine until I try an OLED, so I just need to not try an OLED until I'm ready for a new monitor.
4K 240Hz oled and qd-led already on the way to a market - in one or two months maybe you can buy it. And instead of aiming to qd-oled only (or oled only) technology look at specific models - search for reviews and go watch it with own eyes. Good luck
I noticed people on Reddit are complaining about the LG 32GS95UE clipping at 600nits in HDR and having a MaxCLL of 600 which can't be changed. How come no reviewers have talked about this? Is it actually a problem?
From what I can recall, I thought that black crush was a QD OLED only issue because the LG C2 I had and the LG 45 Ultragear does not suffer from black crush.
Near black has always been the biggest issue with woled. Sony snd LG have def gotten better with it though especially this past year. G4 is best to date.
So would you say there is any distinction between the brand variants of the QD oled monitors? Data interfaces aside, are any of them brighter or have better calibration than the competition? Does the ASUS warrant its price above the MSI? Thanks.
You're not supposed to get that much shadow detail, because shadows that low often contain very little detail, especially when viewed darkly. In the end, it's just a dynamic range attribute. LCD's don't deliver more detail, they just inherently have brighter blacks that allows you to more readily perceive that shadow detail. When they talk about 1 million to 1 contrast ratios, it means that the brightest white is 1 million times brighter than the darkest pixel illumination possible. Often we can't really perceive this much of a difference with our eyes, especially against bright highlights, so the dark pixels simply don't get bright enough for us to detect as a difference, until you raise it to a sufficient level, which you can only do by shifting and shrinking the dynamic range, which affects the overall picture, and can do so negatively, because then everything else that should 20% dark is instead 20% brighter, which not only changes its brightness, but its color too, since brightness is an inherent function of color perception. This is more about the inherent difference between mediums that have illuminated pixels vs mediums that use reflected light, like a printed photo, both of which have their benefits and drawbacks. For example, the same printed photo can look differently when viewed under different lighting conditions. So you could have a perfect print, but if you're viewing it in bad lighting, it can look too dark or not the right color. That's why adjusting screens too much to try to bring out shadow detail, affects the rest of the picture negatively. Almost everything in photography is centered around exposing for midtones and highlights, and there is always a trade off that must be made. Not because technology hasn't gotten there yet, but because this is just how the relation between real world lighting works. Trying to get around it and everything would look weird, like those over done HDR images. In real life there is a lot of detail you don't see.
Its more a problem of default settings. My TV set needs to be calibrated at 51-52 % black levels. I had to put it at 53 % because of the fact that before 10 percent white it was too dark. It didn't track the BT1886 EOTF correctly and I have only 10 point calibration so that was the only way to achieve the goal. The drawback is that the contrast ratio is lowered. I think manual calibration should be taken seriously for TVs because it needs to be done closely compared to monitor where a 3DLUT and an ICM profile will fix everything for you.
Yea plaing around with the above mentiones settings on my C2 and the testvideos in the discription. I found the tradeoff to have more "shadow detail" not worth it for the overall picture quality. But now I know: I like actually having less "details in the shadows" on my OLED. Thats the image I want. Otherwise content with almost black colors seems grey now, which I don't like.
Of course you are supposed to have that shadow detail...the code values are all legal by HDR standard. Consumer OLEDS just lack the fine power control needed to excite the material. Hopefully one day it is solved. Dithering is not a good solution
@@444chroma The point is they wouldn't look right if you did make them capable of displaying such dynamic range. They would have to either be very flat low contrast styles, or would end up looking like overbaked HDR images. And one reason why OLED crushes black is because there's a large margin between the darkest displayable brightness, and being off entirely, which can lead to clipping that looks like compression artifacts. Most movies don't even really have a true black, because true black is technically impossible, so it's like you're working with a 0-255 level of brightness, but the content itself actually only has 25-255, but you still have a display that does 0-255.....so that 25 becomes a 0, and everything else above it is shifted too. Of course it's more complex than that, but what it means is that the true black level of any given content, can vary depending on a lot of factors like styling, and there is no true standard for that. They try to post process a standard here and there, so a dark scene might be digitally black, but only because it was artificially adjusted to that value. Shadows and black points don't only apply to dark areas either, they can also affect the midtones. Like for example, if you took the shadow slider on an image editor and cranked it up to max, you'd have a lot of shadow detail, but the image may not look very good. But even not cranking it up to max, only cranking it by 20% for example, can completely change the look of an image. Now imagine you have a scene with a super hero flying over a city, it's meant to look dark with a few lights, but instead the editors decided to crank up the shadow detail until you can see every little detail like it's almost daylight. The scene simply wouldn't have the same feel or style or color to it. And the problem really isn't anything to do with OLED exciting material, it's more to do with the fact that your eyes couldn't even see such a dynamic range, because eyes don't work like that. Our pupils dilate and expand with brightness. So if you have a lot of brightness, your pupil dilates, which actually makes it harder to see darker things. Just like how a shadow in daylight can look pure black, even if shadow itself is a brightness that is far greater than night darkness, meaning the shadow would actually have enough light to glow if you could suddenly surround it with night but still have it be a shadow from daytime.
Ok, this is all good and great BUT he never explains how bad are the blacks on the OLED when the shadow detail is corrected. Why no comparison with an IPS LCD? All he said was the black will be worse but by how much and how does it compare to LCD??? If we the viewers can't get an idea by comparing to IPC LCD then this video is completely worthless to us.
It’s not as huge of a loss as you might think to elevate black level a bit, as even CRTs had some ambient glow on a black screen and Plasmas also required some elevation to get shadow details
I appreciate your video but shame on you for pushing useless over priced cables. Any engineer will tell you that with a digital signal, a £5 cable is just as good as as £50 cable.
I've noticed the Woled panels have much deeper blacks during the daytime in a well lit rooms compared to QD OLED which turns washed gray or magenta .. Why is that so?
The woled screen when the monitor is off is black pure. Qd oled however is purple. Thats why on bright enviorment the qd oled tend to look not true black.
True my biggest problem with LG C9 is black crush I bought spears and munsil 4k hdr calibration disc I tried this method to rectify this issue no good result 50 is the true black any deviation in brightness slide will affect the true black the problem is not with white gradients but with other color gradients red, blue, green,... huge deviation on them. so I ended up back to 50 brightness, however, I will give it a try this weekend and update myself ultimately the reason why I am holding my purchase on G4 and waiting for Sony Bravia 9.
Mini led gets destroyed in motion clarity and responsiveness. Burn in is barely even a problem anymore. This dude just regurgitating stuff he's heard online lol.
@@charliegrech2026True but you dont even need to go that high-end. Especially with the QD Oled TVs, they get incredibly bright. QD Oled monitors get pretty bright too, and they dont have that IPS glow that strains your eyes
@@MA-jz4ycthe problem is they HAVE used one. It's undeniable the difference in brightness. Especially if you put them side by side. 250nits is a bare minimum to be decent which most of these meet barely. OLED is a good panel, but it has short comings like any other panel and miniLED makes more sense for desktop use.
