Stop scratching your head, wondering what in the world is causing your OMC stern drive to leak down! All you need are 2 - 1/4 inch flare caps and you will have your answer!
Thats a best explanation ever. Time to jump and check my trim and tilt. Tired of being dropped all the time as soon i start loading on trailer. Thanks thanks again.
Hi I noticed the other day I had Fluid in the area where the hydraulic hose and the smaller metal pipe meet up. I noticed that you commented that fluid might pool in that area if the fitting to the cylinder meet. Am I understanding that correctly? If not would this be a requirement to replace that hose assembly. I seem to be holding pressure fine the trim is not sagging down. I thank for you time and also for making this video.
Keep an eye out on it. If it is running don't fix it. Address it during the winter if it gets worse. The main thing to remember is to check and make sure trim goes full up and down before every trip. Thanks so much. Please hit that subscribe button!
@@michaelromer2016 my trim tilt is slower than usual, I did leave the trim up for a while after a couple of trips. I have a Volvo penta 5.7 engine. Can you tell me kindly where I add more trim tilt fluid. Is there a reservoir for that. Have a blessed day.
Hello Michael I have old TRS drives on my 78 scarab. I'm a newbie to boat repair. Can you tell me what the functions are for the trim cylinder rear line vs front line?
Hydraulic pressure pushes the piston either up or down depending on the position of the switch please hit the subscribe button and thanks again for your comments.
Hi Mike, I rebuilt the pump the other day, I installed and filled the pump, however I have air in the cylinders now. When I took off the lines at the pump I didn't have the lower unit secured properly and the lower unit came down. Now that I filled the pump it wont come back up. How do you get the air out of the cylinders? Thanks!
Mark Tassone lower the stern drive and set the skeg on a piece of wood. This completely compresses the cylinders. Go to the pump, undo the cap, and add just enough hydraulic fluid where it come s out of the hole, secure the red cap in place. Attempt to raise the stern drive all the way up. Once it reaches all the way up, safely secure the stern drive, and remove the red cap. There might be an air release sound when it is removed. Add a little fluid if it is too low. Adding too much fluid will cause an explosion in the pump. I’ve done it before and it’s a mess. Reinstall the red cap, remove the securing strap, and lower the stern drive. Lower the stern drive all the way down, remove the red cap, and repeat. You can repeat up to 7 times before you overheat the pump. Take your time.
This is killing me!! Ok, so I did lower down and hit the trim up. It did not come up. I have to use the ratchet strap to move it to the up position. When I loosen up the strap the unit comes down, I try again with the motor and it don't come up. I use the ratchet again to get the motor up. This time I go to the trim pump and remove the down line and hear air come out. Not sure if you have ran into this issue, I would take it in, but nobody wants to work on it anymore. Its a 1996 Wellcraft SL. 5.0
Mark Tassone the cylinders are likely full of air. You are going to need remove both lines from the pump. I’d get a vacuum pump and pull the air out of both lines.
Hi Micheal, my ‘95 OMC appears to be leaking from the (the actual hose) on the bottom part of the port side with the short fitting. The tilt ram seems to be dry, so I think I could just replace that hose, refill and bleed system. The problem is, there is very little room to get a wrench on the top flare fitting because it’s behind some hardware. Would you have any suggestions? Should I remove something to get access? Thanks! -John
I have a 93 OMC Cobra, I pulled hydraulic lines off the pump to do the diagnostics test as my tilt/trim is drifting down fast. Capped the lines with the 1/4" flare cap, released the ratchet straps and lower unit over a few days went from 9" measurement on the cylinder to 6.5" and has been steady there for days. I didn't notice any leaks on my cylinders and definitely no leaks from the hydraulic hoses I capped. Where do you think I should start ? Pump or Cylinders ? Any words of wisdom/advice. Amazing videos, Thanks !
Thanks for your comments! Do you have any issues if you just raise and lower the stern drive? If so, you may have air in the system. I think this is an issue where you’re cylinders. I have a video that shows how to rebuild them and you can definitely do it pretty quickly so don’t worry if it is an issue with your cylinders because they’re pretty easy to fix.
I have a Volvo penta gxi 5.0. Im leaking fluit and today it started making noise, as if I was pressing the button. Now the trim wont hold pressure. I'm not sure if the pump is bad or a simple leak. I've seen a sheen on the water the last few weeks
would you know if my omc power trim system might be tied in with my trim tab hydraulic pump? also, how do i test the circuit breaker assembly on my power trim pump? I have the same exact pump as in your video....thanks, please reply...
The answer appears to be no. The best way to check (like I did) is to review a parts breakdown diagram. As you will see in the following link, I configured the model for an OMC stern drive 5.8, and I looked under power trim and tilt. www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55838.cfm?mdl=S2SB1M I tested the breaker on accident once. It is really hard to pop that breaker. I'd recommend you get 12v to the red terminal. Other than that don't worry about it, you have a 50 amp breaker upstream from that one.
Hi. I got 5.0GXI volvo penta engine. Everything works great, but I noticed a milky oil in trim reservoir tank. Do you think it's cylinder seals leaking? Thank you.
Hi. I have a leaking trim hydraulic line (due to heat from a failed water pump impeller) which runs from the trim pump to the manifold on the outside of the transom on the outdrive. How do you replace this line? There are no other issues and the trim works fine when filled with fluid. Also what is the recommended fluid to use in this pump? The fluid in it now is red. Thanks so much for your excellent videos!!
Eric-- if you haven't already done so, you will likely need to remove the engine. That's considering it's the hydraulic line inside the engine area (inside the boat). Otherwise, you have to remove the stern drive and bellows to get to the other side of the line.
Gary, it’s very strange, but it appears they are not currently being offered. Keep an eye out for them to be back in stock. They haven’t been producing them for over a year. If you want, you can buy a refurbished unit. Let me know, I know where they are available.
Hey bud my my trim pump on my 1991 four winns 170 freedom It's a OMC 3.0L - OMC Cobra sterndrive The pump is exactly like yours and it start whining real bad when I trim down trimming up is fine I read to to bleed the lines or disconnect the down line from the pump and raise the transom up and down 8 or 10 times to release any air and refill it Do you have any other suggestions for this I really don't want to tear it down like you did or replace it And the other question I noticed in the video it got a little vague at the end how is the best way to fill the pump especially if it's up right I really need some help
It sounds like your valve seal in the pump is worn. You are likely hearing more of a blow by noise, similar to worn rings on an aged motor. The cause for this is from age and the trim pump having to support the stern drive for years. They make a device to keep this from happening. In fact, I have a video about it. So, if you want to start down the path you are suspecting, here goes. Go to the trim pump with the stern drive completely down, so it’s safe. Remove the red cap on the trim pump, did you hear air released? Add trim pump fluid (hydraulic fluid), just until it comes out hole where the red cap goes. Overfilling it will cause a trim pump explosion. So only add small amounts. Raise the trim up and down no more than 2 times. Repeat until, you get positive results. You can’t raise the pump up and down more than 6 times or your pump will overheat.
I will try that I also greased everything and checked all the lines like you did in the video I watched alot of your stuff its helped I have had to do so much already the list goes on I purchased the boat two months ago The last thing done besides replacing everything else that was needed is the carburetor has to be rebuilt $ 200 bucks out the door I rather it be done then get screwed later
I also have to get a tool to check my seals on my control arms The whining is pretty bad sounds like a cat getting stepped on I use a ratchet strap when I travel to keep the transom from bouncing around I saw your guards for yours
