No video :(

One of the Most SOLID Post Installation Videos I've Seen

Подписаться 82 тыс.

Просмотров 311 тыс.

50% 1

Today we're reacting to another fence video! This is very straight forward: How to Install a Fence Post! We're going to watch this video and critique it where necessary and compliment it where it's deserved. You know the drill; watch, enjoy, and let me know what y'all think in the comments below!
► See the Best Fence Fittings from Nationwide Industries - thefenceexpert...
► How to Install a Fence Post by B&O Craftsman - • How to Install a Fence...
► Click Here To Subscribe - / joeeverest
► Click Here For More Reaction Videos - • Expert Fence Builder R...
► Click Here To Save On Fencing Supplies - thefenceexpert...
I'm Joe Everest, The Fence Expert. On this channel, I'm going to teach you everything there is to know about fences. We're going to show you how to build a fence, everything about fence posts, different fence installation methods and much, much more. If you're wanting to become a fence builder, or if you're just trying to build a DIY fence, my channel will help you out. So subscribe and ring the bell icon, that way you don't miss any of my fence videos!
► Check Out My Social Media:
Email - joe@thefenceexpert.show
RU-vid - / joeeverest
Facebook - / therealjoeeverest
LinkedIn - / joeeverest
► Gear I Use:
Coolest Clock Ever - amzn.to/3owMHqC
Main camera - amzn.to/37MIqbA
Lens for main and Second cameras - amzn.to/3gmmtnK
Second camera - amzn.to/2JAvOfW
My microphone - amzn.to/3oAFkyr
Sound Mixing Board - amzn.to/2LibU9V
Wireless Lav Mic - amzn.to/2Ip1hAV
Tripod to hold our camera - amzn.to/37INaz5
Our studio lights - amzn.to/3lQP9X3
*NOTE: This description contains affiliate links that allow you to find the items mentioned in this video and support the channel at NO COST TO YOU. While this channel may earn minimal sums when the viewer uses the links, the viewer is in NO WAY obligated to use these links. Thank you for your support!

Опубликовано:

17 авг 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 377

@anthonymiller9127 2 года назад

We have torn out many old wood fences and replaced them with post master fences but after doing this a while we found it makes no difference. The post will rot where the concrete starts weather its at grade or below. Gravel on the bottom only helps if water can escape from the inside of the footing. Over time the post shrinks, creates a gap between then post and footing. Basically acts as a funnel. Also in areas with heavy frost it is best to leave the footing 6" to a foot below grade as the frozen dirt will help keep the footing from lilting. Love what you do Joe with breaking down these videos. Opens up for some great discussion.

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Thanks Anthony, I appreciate you sharing your experience!

@finallyfriday. 2 года назад

Myself, too, after pulling many posts gave found depth and solid compaction best tools for good post performance. Rot will happen regardless. In fact, the more you do the more they rot. Bare post (no cement or treatments) seem to rot less but still some.

@bevbossio7083 4 месяца назад

Back in the day we used to put 1 incn gravel stone on the bottom of the post before the concrete pour to keep the post from making dirt contact and to help with water drainage.So you are right a paver or stone cannot hurt.Great video👍

@serotonin67 2 года назад

Joe, Excellent problem-solving discussion format. You got my brain cells working. Succeeded today in my 1st ever pole installed. Plumbed, leveled, and cemented hole at 36" deep. Problems overcome 1st due to some big water drainage concerns, I thought it best preparation to 1st treat the new 4x4 pole with a little mineral oil mix and follow-up with 1 coat 36" of asphalt roofing tar. 2nda placed a stone to keep the pole above the water built up at the bottom tip of the 4x4. If I may add a little lesson learned that prevented Mother Nature from getting mad at me and drowning a gate post. 1st problem that almost kicked my ass was I observed the natural slope of the ground drained water right towards the gate post hole. Hence, I appreciated your researched suggestion that others were using to raise the pole above the water. The stone left me with 30" vice 36". So far appears to support a 6' gate with ease.

@c0pyimitati0n 2 года назад

This had gotta be one of the weirdest genres on RU-vid 😂 a guy watching a guy dig a hole and "react" to it.. just wow.

@willbuffaloe6594 11 месяцев назад

True. And just think we’re watching a guy watch a guy dig a hole. Ha ha.

@anthonywaters861 11 месяцев назад

Oh, dear, and now I'm reading comments written by a guy who watched a guy, watch a guy dig a hole...

@ballgms308 10 месяцев назад

Atleast there’s skill and knowledge involved. What about all the vids showing people chew on crunchy stuff and weird colors and all that. That’s what I call an odd genre, nothing more than time consumption while not learning a drop of anything to improve your life

@kristopherkammerdiener5057 10 месяцев назад

No I want to start a channel that watched this reaction video and reacts to the review..

@filmsforfrens 7 месяцев назад

Not really. It's basically a fact check for instructional videos. More of this is needed because after getting into the trades and performing a broader scope of work I've learned there's A LOT of bad info. Either people that aren't good giving advice or people who maybe read things without actually performing the work creating click bait etc. This guy's content is pretty awesome and definitely needed

@TitoTellsTheTruth Год назад

“You can never check the plumb of a post to many times” you are absolutely right on that

@JoeEverest Год назад

I appreciate you watching, thanks!

@LordoftheCats Год назад

I use a fence post level that attaches to the post providing levels in both directions continually. Makes getting the post straight and level dead easy. I just wish I could teach it how to dig the post hole!! :-)

@dannylindsey7547 11 месяцев назад

27 years ago I built about 400 feet of 6 ft tall full privacy fence. That's about 50 posts. I set them 2 feet deep and dry poured an eighty lb bag of concrete mix for each post. For posts I used 4 in landscape timbers. Caught them on sale for a dollar each at home depot. Just last year I had to replace about 8 of those posts because one had weakened enough that a strong wind broke the others on each side. Same thing happened with another section this year. The point is that after 27 years there was very little rot even in those cheap landscape timbers. The biggest problem was the wind. 6 ft privacy fence catches a lot of wind. Almost all the remaining posts are leaning 6 to 8 inches. Not broken or crooked. Just leaning. I set the new posts 30 inches deep and filled the holes to the top with wet mixed concrete this time hoping that will help.

@alsteeves2044 19 дней назад

You sound like minded. I think there is a tendency to over engineer things today. Just dug 35 holes fir for a 230 ft. X 6ft. high job on my home. Using 6x6 pressure treated and 2 bags dry mix a post. My method is half bag in hole add water and next half bag. We are in a relatively dry climate and I am sure this fence will outlast me.

@annettesurfer 2 года назад

The frost line in Michigan is 42” and when I installed 300’ of 6’ tall treated privacy fence about 10 years ago, I set the 10’ 4x4’s into 48” holes, on top of gravel I tossed in, and I didn’t use any concrete at all. I packed in something called “county-mix”, which is a gravel mixed with fines (stone dust) which ended up settling quite a lot but after multiple minor fills...it sort of hardened like concrete. I don’t recall what I paid to have the county-mix delivered but just last week I had to widen the driveway approach about a foot so I bought two 32 gallon garbage cans full of the county-mix for less than $20 but the problem was the weight since a yard of it weighs 3200 Lbs. Anyway the point of the mix was to keep microbe laden dirt away from the wood posts. And with concrete, I’ve experienced post shrinkage over time, which then allows the wood to get wet. Everything is still perfect, except for the huge carpenter bees boring under the rails and the somewhat protected areas of the posts covered by the pickets. I just started spraying the hovering male guard bees with Sevin attached to a garden hose, which drives ‘em away for a couple hours so I can poison the holes before the guard is either replaced or they’ve recovered. Well that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

@stanleywiggins5047 3 года назад

I'm a 63 year young Aussie old fart, a Jack of all trades and master of none.. personally I'd put the concert level to soil & sloped away from the post , after coating the bottom of the post with creasote or old diesel oil.. minimum of 2 coats.. suppose that is just me..

@kylephillips9073 4 месяца назад

The heart of the tree comment is valid. As a carpenter in hand picking lumber the position of the heart and end grain of each board is vital. Yellow Pine especially has a tendency to bow or twist therefore the heart is the most stable part of the tree.

@minato4203 2 года назад

I worked at one fence company and we pre mixed the concrete in a bucket then poured the wet mix into the hole. Then was offered more money at a different company and they poured a bit of water in the hole then dry concrete then more water on the top. Then take an 1/2” steel pipe and stab it into the concrete so it would help the water get all through the concrete. Add water if needed. I like the 2nd way because the post is set right away. No 24 hour wait. Like joe said to each their own!

@Beholderoffate Год назад

His right about the heart, I've been in the sawmill busy for over a decade and I'm classified as an expert in my field.

@BOCraftsman 3 года назад

Hey Joe! Thank you for the fantastic video reaction! It meant a lot to hear from an expert your take on my technique. I love this so much, I decided to put together my own reaction video to your reaction! Look for it next week! Thanks again.

@ZoneOne2150 Год назад

That’s kind of odd and unnecessary lol

@vxnova1 Год назад

@@ZoneOne2150 there is nothing odd about it, he can answer the questions or items that are unclear in this review, Like the location and frost layer etc,

@ThriftyToolShed 7 месяцев назад

I think that is an awesome idea!

@CVMGAM 3 месяца назад

I took my time, and used a shovel to get started, then water and a crow bar afterwards. Did as much as I can before it becomes difficult, then filled up the holes with water & cut through about 1/2 a foot of dirt like butter with a crow bar the next day. Repeat until you have your holes dug out in 3-5 days.

@pipi7731 Год назад

The first thing I noticed was the guy did not add any gravel to the bottom of the hole. I would also use an asphalt emulsion and dip the post in it or paint it on the 2 foot that is going in the hole. I would also stain that post to keep water from damaging it. Yes it costs a little more but, will last longer.

@pipi7731 Год назад

I do see the stones and solid stone that he added. My bad. Sorry.

@tonyvolbeda952 Месяц назад

okay concrete hand mixed....most people mix it entirely to wet...the "strength issue" isn't an issue in setting posts, the concrete isn't under a compressive load like a foundation or driveway slab...it is taking the place of other back fill material such as aggregate...the real issue; wet mix is going to take longer to set thus longer to hold the post securely....it is easy to do 120lbs to 180lbs hand mix in a wheel barrow and with a round shovel (electric barrel mixers mix to wet and aren't easier; you still have to lift bags of concrete, need a wheelbarrow and will have another tool to clean...put in about 2 gallons of water first, pour in first bag concrete (60lbs) and mix; it will be very soupy...add second bag and mix will start to become stiffer add about another 1/2 gallon water...mix until no dry cement visible....add another 1/2 gallon water and mix then add third bag....begin mixing and slowly add water, mixing throughly until you achieve about a 5" slump (mix will retain shape in shovel)... (once you're used to this, it takes about 10 mins to do)... with post in hole at proper location and plumb (use string lines and tape measure ,always measure from start/corner post) shovel cement around post equally, "rod" concrete, tap post just above concrete to get "cream" to set around post... finish top so it slopes away from post... the stiff concrete will hold the post plumb and set enough in 2 hours to allow constructing fence...if you want to keep bottom of post off the dirt; after the first couple shovels raise the post up and down a few times the concrete will flow under it

@patrickoneill6297 2 года назад

Whether or not finished concrete above or below grade, it only takes a second to “dome” concrete so it slopes away from wood post, and most likely, will help prevent rot. To what extent I don’t know, but for a few seconds of time, why not?? Promote good practice. (Same thing we do with engineered rebar piers when we do more than one pour).

@michaelstein7995 3 года назад

we've all shaved several holes in our days. great vid brother. i learn something new every time

@BUTGOD-j1x Год назад

Great video observation. Love your format. I do fences part-time and I do my post holes exactly like this guy except put moisture barrier where post meets the dirt.. NEVER had a problem with one leaning in 20 years. he enlightened me on the "eye" in middle of wood thing though. Thanks for sharing

@joejones56 Год назад

Don’t know if this is not advised .. but when using a post hole digger, after getting the hole started, I sprayed with water to soften the dirt ..

@ephorntube Год назад

For any outdoor post set in concrete, I like the the top layer of cement to slope away from the post to drain away from post and keep wood drier.

@JoeEverest Год назад

Great process, I appreciate you sharing it with us!

@ThriftyToolShed 7 месяцев назад

I really like this video style. Joe really knows his stuff, doesn't mind sharing his expertise and he is very open minded about others techniques. A lot to like about this!

@JoeEverest 7 месяцев назад

Much appreciated! Thanks for watching and weighing in!

@danstark462 3 месяца назад

Joe you have the right words to appreciate, on other way of doing the job. I enjoy the insight on the weakness in the schemes that fencing have.

@n.vonwernitz7664 2 года назад

Zelda Fences and Landscaping up Northern BC Canada. We have lots of different types of earth up here, lots of rock. I insist of course on PT posts, won't build a fence without them. For the bottom of the post hole I use the post itself to compact the ground, use bag concrete same way to leave an anchor at the bottom. Then use the excavated material to backfill and tamp hard on the way up. I find it saves me from having to take away the residual earth, and saves the client on concrete. I've never had a previous client call me back to fix a post. Solid method. Respect from 🇨🇦 , happy sub to your channel

@jimfoley7618 2 месяца назад

I'm a retired wooden boatbuilder of 45 yrs, boxed heart timbers and post are always the most stable when it comes to warping and twisting.

@paulmccaughin9708 Год назад

I would also suggest using the rot bloc material at the bottom of the fence post to block moisture

@Ladosligese Год назад

i allways level the posts with 2-3-4 before cement , works a treat .. and saves me the water compas checking time after time

@michaelstlouis2472 7 месяцев назад

What I found to be the best is crushed rock, bottom and around no rot

@JoeEverest 7 месяцев назад

I appreciate you watching and sharing your experience!

@williammelvin6371 2 года назад

Good luck to this reviewer. I like his review style and positive mindset. Good show sir !!

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Thanks William!

@fg146 3 года назад

I like that you aren't super critical but I would absolutely have dinged him on a couple things. The hole should always be three feet deep imo no matter what climate range you live in. When I lived in PA we dug deep busting rocks to get below frost line. I live in Florida now and I dig deeper and buy 10 foot posts for a 6 foot fence to protect from high winds and the digging is easy. I love the foam personally because it keeps moisture off the post and is easier to install by yourself. This guy was absolutely right about choosing posts by looking at the end grain. Posts can warp bad if chosen wrong imo.

@talk2kev Год назад

The strongest part of that post is just above the ground until it rots which may take 15-20 years or more. Most of the fence I install is stockade. I will install 2x4 and set the panel on that secured to both post. I also will run deck board 5/4 on the back side of the panel from bottom of the next post to the top of the gate post, this will keep the top of the gate post from moving. This extra step will keep your gate post strong.

@bipedalspecies2086 3 года назад

You answered a comment of mine a few weeks ago. I am using 4x4-10ft posts, 3ft down, 1 foot across, plus cement mixer + using 1-2-3 mix, to make a 100ft fence and, basically, yes apart from the bracing I do the same. To brace I use to pieces of rail either side with one across, 4 screws, a ratchet clamp and a post level so I can make lots of mistakes and still have lots of room :D

@Jonathan-fx5pr 3 года назад

your right about the rotting of the post. I've only seen them rot flush or a couple inches down.

@scothy-gz8ex 3 года назад

Typically....a good video. B&O has some good stuff. Finally, we live in an area where locust is available. It’s Gods choice for fence posts. With good drainage , a locust post milled or not will last longer that the supposedly 30 yr rating on treated lumber. I installed a locust post fence in 1992 and it’s still standing!

@StephenBennett-pj9ig Год назад

Hey Joe, Just ran across this video. I live in an area where termites pose a threat to wooden post more than rot. So I try to avoid any ground contact. With that said, it is my understanding that it is bad practice to fully incase the post in concrete. A couple of things I do: 1) I put a piece of paver in the bottom so there is no ground contact. 2) I will put termite insecticide into the bottom of the hole to ward off the hungry ground dwellers. 3) bring to concrete just above ground level sloping it away from the post.

@JoeEverest Год назад

Sounds like a solid process, I appreciate you sharing it!

@stevenlight5006 2 года назад

I install a cross t at 24 " from bottom of post this sets all post at 6' . Concrete will be under post. Hole would be 29 " deep . I hav switched to gravel on common posts concrete at gates .

@mikej6116 Год назад

Hi Joe. I'm not a fence expert by any means. Shouldn't all post in areas where there is frost possibility to use sono tubes. My reasoning is that a lot of holes that are filled with concrete are not very uniform from top to bottom. Filling with concrete around the post with no sono tube leaves the sides of the hole jagged and irregular allowing the frost to heave it. When the frost gets into the ground and expands the post can easily heave upwards and stay there due to getting hung up and also dirt can accumulate under the post over several seasons of frost heave even if the bottom of the post is below the frost line. Therefore a smooth sonotube wont let this happen.

@JoeEverest Год назад

The smooth sonotube would likely make it easier for the frost line to heave the post, as the post footer would be smooth and have nothing to grip to in order to resist the push.

@josephrobison2601 3 месяца назад

I pick out 4x4s that are slightly bowed that way I can position them where the bow is in-line with the fence. alternate bow to the left, then bow to the right. This seems to stabilize them. the perfectly straight ones can bow after install, and its a 50% chance they bow in or out, leaving you with a wavy fence.

@nitrorc4life1 2 года назад

I have pulled my share of old posts. And the ends in concrete exposed to the dirt rotted most of the time, BUT no where near as bad as the ground level of same post, so my experience shows it does not matter as the post at ground level will rot through first.

@finallyfriday. 2 года назад

Pulled some 30+ years posts back out of ground. When I had set them I used no cement. Posts still good as new except at ground level that had some rot. Lost about 5% of its original volume at that line. Cedar posts with bark left on.

@jim9214 Месяц назад

HI ..Thanks to B&O Craftsman for the original video and Joe Everest for the great review and comment. I"m in the midst of replacing posts and fence that was installed by a contractor 5 years ago...yes 5 years ago. (My neighbour hired him) I believe the contractor owned a small mill and milled all the wood himself (Douglas Fir/ BC Canada) and did not pressure treat or oil them up at all. The soil here is wet heavy clay....most all of the rot in the 5" Sq posts that I'm replacing was at ground level to about a foot or so into the soil. The bottoms of the posts are surprisingly solid. SO, I've come here to get advice. What I'm thinking is, I"ve dug the post holes down between 36-46" (we have deep frost here in Northern Canada) and then filling around the posts with a mix of gravelly clay, i.e. gravel to encourage drainage and enough clay that it will pack solidly. Then stopping short of the ground level, and filling that part with concrete ("Post Haste") with a pyramid shape to drain water away from the posts. Again this is northern British Columbia Canada...we get a lot of rain, snow and deep frost. Oh...and I absolutely hate having to spend time rebuilding fence...when I should be FISHING!!!! Any suggestions, experience and/or advice greatly appreciated! Thanks!

@kathykat7592 Год назад

We are going to build a fence. I am going to use steel posts. In Texas it's not to cold but has been in the last few years, however, shifting is bad here. I subscribed because I need to learn more! Thanks for sharing your expertise!

@mgomez5606 Месяц назад

I had to pull two posts back out after curing because I did not use string line. They were 6 inches off.

@jarmstrong2843 2 года назад

When I install 25’ - 30’ vertical ham radio antennas in the ground that have a lot of wind load, I will typically dig about a 6”-8” hole for a 1.25”-2” aluminum mast that is about 2.5’-3.5’ deep. I put the mast into the hole that has 6” of gravel at the bottom. I fill in around the mast with 3/8”-1/2” gravel and tamp it down as I fill in around the mast. This provides an extremely strong foundation without the use of concrete. With this being said, the same principle could be used with wooden or galvanized fence posts. And the mast or fence post can be easily removed if necessary. On top of this you don’t need to wait for the concrete to set.

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Great process, I appreciate you sharing it!

@j.hernandez983 3 года назад

I've dry set, I've mixed, and I've poured watered down and tamped it. Honestly it's all about the same in my opinion. I've dug up a dry set 6×6 post (set on the wrong side of the line) it was there 2 days and was solid. Had to bust off with a sledge. I find it easier to pour some dry then wet then add more then some water and tamp with a little rod done.

@bipedalspecies2086 3 года назад

I just dug up 2/3 my fence that I had set a couple of months ago using 1-2-3 mix and had to use a breaker :D Premade Postrcrete ones from a previous installation I dealt with in seconds weeks before that.

@j.hernandez983 3 года назад

@@bipedalspecies2086 I haven't seen the premade postcrete.

@bipedalspecies2086 3 года назад

@@j.hernandez983 I don't know if it's a UK/British thing and I should really have said 'premixed'. It's a cement sized bag with sand, cement and a little rock. It works out 3 times the cost of mixing your own so with 19 posts I bought a concrete mixer, putting up overall cost by about 50% and after done using it for the fence, rendering the garage and a few slabs I will sell it. I like that it's fast, easy to use and sets within hours but its cost and strength in comparison doesn't add up to me. I have used postcrete/postmix and it's my first time mixing concrete, but at least I can gain some experience and knowledge doing this and the satisfaction at the end.

@13squier 4 месяца назад

Just set a half dozen 4x4 posts directly in the ground with no concrete. Dug 30 inch deep holes, added 6" of gravel, then packed alternating layers of gravel and clay around each post. The way they make pressure treated now I expect the posts to be rotted in

@DJHEV 3 года назад

I appreciate the video & information. I learn something new every time.

@ghill1010 2 года назад

The warping makes a lot of sense. The center it will dry evenly. The center also called a plith can also crack all the way through following the center of the growth. So can go either way.

@hfxpro Год назад

Adding to this, in wood working, you typically try to avoid the pith as it can cause more warping.

@finallyfriday. 2 года назад

Seems to me a well driven post is best. Deep and tight. I've pulled t-posts that were 80 years old and in mint shape with only a little rust. Bare cedar posts 30+ year with only rot ring at ground level but perfect below that. 4x4 treated in good shape except at ground level. Just figure every post has some natural life span and accept it. Everything deteriorates right at the ground and all that gravel, treating, pads, cement, coatings is just time and money. Plant it deep, pack it tight. Brace it if it has horizontal loads. My 2 cents.

@wessmithp5560 2 года назад

Rad, Saturday eve watching fence post vids and I don’t even have a fence;)

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Thanks Wes, I appreciate you watching!

@mkl5448 2 года назад

8" round hole is more than enough for a 4x4 post. Paver/ brick at the bottom, backfill with 411 Stone to about 4 inches from the top, soil the rest of the way, get the pickets about an inch and a half off the ground, and you are good to go. I've done plenty like this, and not have had any issues as a result. Picking out the perfect wood is not practical when you're getting a load of 50 post delivered. Up in my area, we have to dig down 38", but only in certain cities. Posts end up about 5'6" out of the ground, and 2'6" in.

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Sounds like a great process, I appreciate you sharing it!

@jsymanzik 10 месяцев назад

Posts deteriorating at ground level: weed whackers are going to chew away at the post waaaay faster than natural decay. I'm of the opinion that you should make sure you slightly overfill your post holes with concrete so that the concrete will shed water away from the post. This also has the benefit of giving a three or four inch buffer zone that will take longer for grass turf to fill in. This means you can weed whack without hitting the post for a good while. Not necessarily the prettiest thing to look at, but it's a sight better than a chewed up post that's listing badly one way or the other.

@thebigdoghimself 3 года назад

When I was young I remember my dad coating the bottom part of the post with a thick layer of tar.

@BUTGOD-j1x Год назад

Exactly. All you need to do is spray some sealant right where the post meets the ground. THAT is where 90% of decay happens.

@sthrnbelle52 Год назад

Or now a days flex seal liquid rubber to depth of bury line.

@leathercheerio1 Год назад

If the post cracks and allows water in ..id thunk you want the bottom.unsealed format to.draim out more easily

@ajalicea1091 Год назад

My dad and grandpa both did this. There were always 2 buckets. 1. Some of the tar was poured out into one of the buckets. 2. Then, the fence posts were dunk into the tar, if the post was going deeper, then the tar from the other bucket was poured along the sides and allowed to run down. Many of the post we put out were close to 2 & a 1/2 to 3' deep. Lived where the freeze point was 18 inches to 2 foot.

@busty1372 Год назад

Wrong. That will keep water that drains down n the post. Add 6” of gravel below post, so water drains away

@The.Pickle 2 года назад

I've been looking at Bitumen/tar post wraps for the aerobic zone; you heat the wrap so it becomes soft and sticky, sealing the wood.

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Agreed, there’s a product called PostSaver that seems to accomplish this!

@yotasrule2554 Год назад

I make the bottom of the holes wider than the top to keep the frost from heaving the concrete.(bell shaped 🔔. Also when I set the post I lift the post up a few inches after a few feet of concrete is in the hole to get concrete under the post. This keeps the bottom of the post from rotting and no need for rocks or bricks in the hole.

@JoeEverest Год назад

Sounds like a really solid process, I appreciate you sharing it!

@NewsOfTheRebellion 8 месяцев назад

I have to tell everyone the secret of the stones. The bottom of your hole is always concave. Rocks make it easy to plum because they are easy to tamp and level. It has nothing to do with drainage. If you want that pole to last; keep it for a year to dry it. Now that its dry drill a hole through the base; insert rebar so that it sticks out evenly. Apply tar to rebar & post. Stain everything above ground.

@JoeEverest 8 месяцев назад

I appreciate you watching and sharing your experience!

@ronfussell8244 Год назад

That's all nice if you have days messing around,center your string,dig the holes,your string tells you if your off,push string over,set corners dry,now set your lines,make up some slump to crown post,come back finish it off,thousands of dry sets,if your in very acitic soil you can dip them,got to keep the crew making their money.

@michaelnelson2951 2 года назад

Great ideas and the review with the contractor was excellent, Thanks.

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Very welcome, always happy to help!

@marvin4827 Год назад

Great video. Less contact with the soil offers some protection from rot & termites....

@Jdww89 Год назад

Neighbor had a contractor put up a fence. I had already started mine and he said he likes to use 16' runners instead of 8'.so you're tying into three post instead of two. After I set my post dead center on 8'.i find that 2x4x16 are actually over 16' and had trim each one to hit center of my 4x4s. Flm I just want to go back to being a millwrght where everything is true to dimensions.not to mention had bad the wood is warped.

@chrisfree2000 Год назад

That's what nominal dimensions are in construction, and longer pieces of lumber are notorious for bows and crowns

@MontyBird45 5 месяцев назад

Nicely done. My problem is I need to move a post about 3 ft. so I can Install a double gate. I've already removed the post with concrete attached, all in good shape. Should I just dig a bigger hole and add more concrete?

@ericporlier7719 Год назад

Here from Canada... 48" deep frost line and we put a dry bag of concrete at the bottom of the hole and spray it with water then set the post then poor wet concrete to fill.

@spf-92.5 20 дней назад

How deep you dig? 10 foot posts? I’m in similar climate and building a fence soon.

@stephenellis3609 Год назад

I’ve heard using roofing tar to coat the post up to grade will help prevent rot where you backfill.

@JoeEverest Год назад

That could work, but I’d rather use a purpose-designed product like PostSaver.

@blkacdevl2517 2 года назад

Any thoughts on putting tar or other protective coating on the end of the post coming in contact with the ground? I've thought this might extend the life of the wood and protect from rot.

@darrellsullivan7094 2 года назад

no need. If you suspended the post in the hole with a board at whatever measurement you want,mine is typically 2 feet, then dig your hole 26". when you set the post & level it it will suspend in the hole. Then pour your concrete & it will seal the bottom of the post.

@finallyfriday. 2 года назад

Water will enter the post above ground and soak in. How does it escape out the bottom if it is fully encapsulated? Setting fully into cement also creates a cup that traps in water.

@JohnS-hp2xu 2 года назад

Concrete is also porous and will still allow moisture to get to your post.

@finallyfriday. 2 года назад

@@JohnS-hp2xu Yes. If people want to waterproof their posts they should just use waterproof posts. 75 to 80% of the post is above ground getting soaked in the rain. Do people think the water suddenly jumps out when it soaks down to the ground level? Duh! People are so smart they're stupid.

@flaminkidflip Год назад

I used flex seal at the base. We'll see how that turns out I guess lol

@johnnynewburgh9745 7 месяцев назад

Joe i like your optimism as the paint was drying....dam. Nice to see you picking up on the tips and tricks. The couple of posts that i have seen with rot where right at groung level in aerobic zone. Was thinking of leaving concrete high so no soil contact but as you mentioned people mentioned rot still occurs. Wonder if some type of flashing would work better 2" above aerobic zone ? I have seen some timber that was laying on some flat rocks that looked to be really old no rot?

@garyramey8456 Год назад

In my experience installing by myself is to attach a stabilizing board front back n side to side just to ensure what I need it to do... And I just removed 363' of old post b split rail fencing and replace all new post b Kentucky Board 16' ers. Today. Always a million ways to skin a cat but what's gonna work for said job... Dude didn't do a bad job but one can tell he Is a fyi kinda guy.

@greenbean2136 2 года назад

With the treated lumber we have now it’s best to coat the what’s in the ground it dose last as long as bed

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Agreed, there’s actually a product called PostSaver that’s made for this exact purpose!

@chrisest6715 2 года назад

My experience it all depends as with most things. Put a rock/brick in the bottom if the post is going to have down force. Skip it if the post has side force.

@duanedodson1 4 месяца назад

Here in Oregon, our frost line is 18 inches, so we dig fence posts 24 inches.

@jaysdood 3 года назад

My approach is to put a large concrete mowing strip along the length of the fence. Easier care plus no soil around the post. Thanks for another great video Joe.

@finallyfriday. 2 года назад

This is counterproductive to combating frost upheaval. But I've never seen a post lift from frost forces although codes talk about it often. Cement set below ground level and covered with soil reduces this. Rob Peter to pay Paul, I guess.

@jaysdood 2 года назад

@@finallyfriday. We don't get temperatures cold enough for that to ever be a problem.

@ericglaude4953 2 года назад

Hi Joe, looks like it will turn out alright, although what I like to have is the post centered in the concrete. I’m working a fence, 4” posts, that have been set like his in the video, likely because they were not accurate on the string line, and every flippin’ one of them leans in the direction where there is little to no concrete. I’m digging around each post enough to get at least a 16” diameter with about an 18” shovel depth to give it some mass. About all it’s centered in the hole. I like to bring the concrete up and slope it away from the post, not to protect from rot, as I agree they will all rot at the interface, but it’s to keep landscapers from beating the hell out of the bottom of the post. I have some that look like they have been run through a pencil sharpener! To be fair to landscapers, the same applies to sons that better things to do in their minds. I remember those days to, but I’m better because of them. Thanks Joe.

@jkuoverland8507 2 года назад

I tar the bottom of the post and then roll a mixture of 50% used motor oil and 50% diesel fuel. Let it dry well. My dad did it that way when I was just a young boy (8) and those post are still in great shape today and I am 60 y/o now. Plus I like color it makes them. The trick is to make sure it is a dry pressure treated post, not the wet wet one you get from the store.

@kristopherkammerdiener5057 10 месяцев назад

I'm more interested in a beer review. What's the best beer to drink while installing a chain link fence? Sapporo Black?

@nathanielvanparis7155 Год назад

In Arizona, there are termites that live in the ground. If the bottom of your post is exposed to the earth....well you know. 😂

@nevasoba5953 11 месяцев назад

I have a 10” auger that u just have to slide a 2’ pole thru and turn it by hand. It’s perfect for dirt without a bunch of roots or trash. With a sharp shooter and that auger I can dig almost any post hole and a few. Mins. And I don’t need to rent an auger or the other related expense.

@nevasoba5953 11 месяцев назад

I usually like to add a kicker or 2 to brace it for leveling a lot easier if u don’t have a helper. Rocks or stone are a great idea innthe bottom of the hole.

@redshinoutdoors Год назад

Seems like a solid job to me. I try for 36" every time as I live in the north east. I also do the stone drainage at the bottom. I like the post to set in at least 3 or 4 inches of crushed stone before adding concrete. Whether or not this extra step is necessary only time will tell. When ever possible I will use crushed stone packed tight around the post and no concrete. Generally only if I can get down 36" and only on line posts.

@scottpetrie8707 Год назад

I agree. I also, as I have seen in another video, coat the bottom or in ground portion with used motor oil then tar to prevent rot and has done an amazing job. With that said, it was a short run.

@LeadingPaws 5 месяцев назад

What if you paint or add some extra layer of protection at the bottom of the post?

@FoxMoonz 4 месяца назад

I see a com box next to his fence and not diggers hot line marks l. Glad he didnt get hurt

@daverdal1 2 года назад

I like the color pattern in your background with the different color stains. Gonna try that in my new cabin!~

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

It was actually pretty easy to install, we picked it up here: restorativewoodproducts.com/collections/rewoodd-reclaimed-wood-panels

@shawnbailey4854 Год назад

A quick and easy tip. Set the end posts first. Run a string from one end to the next, and allow all of the posts in between to BARELY touch the string for true alignment avoiding a waving fence line.

@doctordrommos6432 10 месяцев назад

For chain link? Yes. For wood/vynl/ ornamental? No. You want every post to be on the string line. Solid advice setting the terminals first though!

@elvinebovine1297 2 года назад

The Japanese wood workers are very very particular about wood grain. The Japanese still have structures over 1000 years old standing to this day. There is a nuance to wood grain thats more than meets the eye. Cuts off of center will dry the grains differently. Wet to dry a board will want to be a tree after it leaves the mill. Not every tree can grow perfectly straight but every board can be cut straight, and with supply and demand on better cuts usually fence post get the short end of the stick. Standard grade usually is 2 or better some places its grade 3-4 just like studs and that denotes the number of hearts per a certain length (can’t remember what that length is) the more hearts the more spots for unequal drying along with how each stand of wood grain holds its structure. regardless some boards are just meant to bow or twist. It’s how you cut and mount them that can either help or worsen the imperfections.

@brentbeatty4171 Год назад

The stones create aeration at the bottom of the post

@CHDean 7 месяцев назад

“Holes” are great!!!

@djmeser 8 месяцев назад

Ground contact isn't as important as wet contact. If you are making a concrete-filled hole, the concrete will hold some water, preferably not constant. The water can drain or evaporate. if you have dense clay soil and you gravel fill it then concrete, you are essentially creating an area where water will pool. and remain wet. the lumber can wick that moisture up to the oxygen layer and cause rot. In this case it is better to place the post directly on the clay to prevent additional water pooling under the post.

@bearskinrugjo 2 года назад

"guys and gals". I appreciate that.

@axemastersinc3269 3 года назад

7:49 Plumb. It's plumb. Amazing.

@jabtothehead9942 3 года назад

I'm sure there's only a hand full of people in the world that know the difference between plumb, level and square...

@axemastersinc3269 3 года назад

@@jabtothehead9942 Oh for sure. In one of my first construction jobs, the old guy said damn-it boy that is plumb. And I was, what? What are you talking about? That was 1988. You only have to tell me something one time.

@coewendland 2 года назад

I used a treated heart 4x4 on a wood partition and it warped within 4 months. The other heart 4x4 on the other end of the partition did not warp. Everything was stained just a day after installation too.

@JoeEverest 2 года назад

Interesting, I wonder what the difference was?

@coewendland 2 года назад

@@JoeEverest I'll eventually fix it and when I do I'm going to investigate it. 👍 Perhaps it's not 100% warp free when we use heart 4x4. The boards were pretty dry too when installed. I just remembered I installed a 4x4 treated and it was a heart board for my bird feeders and it's been about 12 years now and it's straight as an arrow still. Lol

@MrCpolzin 3 года назад

This is how I'm doing 100 meters of fenceline. I'll have to post you a video mate.

@ZunarXJ59 4 месяца назад

remember all the "let's play" channels where zombies can watch someone play a video game right? this is just the "let's work" genre, same groove different vibe

@GeorgeMinton-jb8ky Год назад

water, trimmers, and wet vegetation up next to the post should be a major contributing factor to rot. I beat the heck out of my posts with trimmer wire. I have noticed post rot quicker where water flows over the posts. If one doesn't trim around the post water that collects on vegetation will contribute to quicker rot. That is my best guess and I am sticking to it.

@jpjp3873 3 месяца назад

I saw a tip somewhere to cut 2 liter bottles to wrap around the bottom of fence posts and young trees to protect from trimmer line. Seemed like a good idea!

@johnd4270 Год назад

I don’t know a lot about fences, but this seems like a lot of work. Gotta be a better way.

@busty1372 Год назад

I think you got the heart thing backward Vern. Go ahead and buy those, and leave the FOHC ones for me.

@jamesadkins1780 Год назад

I live in Cincinnati Ohio. I just removed an old deck that I was told by a neighbor was built in the late 80s. The posts were rotted and the deck was in very sad condition. All the rotted posts were worst just below ground level and broke off there. The ones I got out whole looked good on the end and none were set on stone. Adding stone is probably an unnecessary step.

@JohnS-hp2xu 2 года назад

I’ve been woodworking for decades. Off heart wood is more likely to warp but heart wood is more likely to twist. A twist is worse than a warp.

@ForvoQuizlet 2 месяца назад

Does anyone add wood preservative to the end grain (both top and bottom) to prevent wicking?

@papparocket 2 года назад

Since fungus must have water, food (your post), and oxygen to grow, and since the amount of oxygen below about 6"-8", especially in soil with a lot of clay, is pretty negligible, what do you think about a moisture barrier system with a thick mastic layer coating on the post covered by a thick heat shrink membrane from about 9"-12" below grade to 2"-3" above grade as a moisture barrier for the portion where there is oxygen available. Would such a thing help avoid rot in the aerobic zone of the soil?

@heyfonnin Год назад

Kind of curious about the concrete below grade. Let's say you use this method that he used. Could you use a different material to wrap around the bottom of the post to protect it for longer? Could you use rubber mulch, or gravel, could you coat the bottom portion of the post with several layers of paint to protect it? Essentially what I am trying to ask is if there is any extra method to add to his to increase the longevity to avoid rot?

@JoeEverest Год назад

Absolutely, there’s a product called PostSaver that is made just for this purpose!

@Saywhatohno Год назад

how about adding rebars in the post? like drilling couple rebars at the bottom?

@JoeEverest Год назад

Possibly!

@jmodified 2 месяца назад

The dirt here looks pretty hard, so you wouldn't need as much concrete as you would in soft soil (assuming the yard has good drainage).

@morganplisken7271 Год назад

On the 4x4 warping over time , attaching plywood strips to the post the same width can prevent warping .So construction adhesive and short screws the plywood on two side of the post ,right angle sides of the post if post will be rained on.The wood must be able to dry when it gets wet. Dare that post to warp.

@frednot809 3 года назад

The rocks or paver at the bottom definitely does not hurt, but I think the concept is lost on some. You really should use a couple inches of gravel. Not as much to keep the bottom of the post from ground contact as much as to provide drainage so water is not sitting at the bottom of the post.

@finallyfriday. 2 года назад

Which is why encapsulating the post bottom in cement prevents drainage, holds moisture in. Regardless, ground level rot quickly outpaces any subterranean rot.

@evanmustard5740 3 года назад

I used Simpson strong tie brackets that get set into the concrete footings, the wood post gets screwed in about 1 inch above the ground. Also elevated the posts footing about 2 inches to keep further away from the ground.