One ton swapped Jeep tj front axle install start to finish. 

Thank you!

Thank you! I have another video planned but I’ve just been in the process of moving and a career change working 60+ hours a week, the Jeep fell on a back burner but I’m starting to brush the dust off of it.

Barnes 4wd had trusses for every year dana 60 that have factory spring and control arm mounts for whatever you need!

Yes! I cut all the original brackets off the stock axles and then bought trusses for a Jeep tj that had factory mounting bracket locations to make it as easy as possible. Thanks for the comment!

The rear springs I got given but I think they are a 4.5 as well but the truss gave it about a 1” lift. To the best of my knowledge I think they they are rubicon express but I have no idea.

Yeah I cut the coil buckets and shock mount off the frame and moved them 3.5” up too. It was a crazy amount of work. Much easier to just buy coil overs but I was working on a budget.

It’s a 6” and the spacers are just the factory tj rubber pads they put in the coil buckets to limit road noise. I’m currently redoing all of the suspension 😅😂

And the trusses gave it about another inch front and rear so it’s hard to judge how tall it is now.

I’m using all spicer u joints. It is a np231 with a rugged ridge sye kit. Spicer is the only thing I’ve ever put on my drivelines and they have yet to fail me.

Thanks for the comment! 👍

@jcfabworks5418 Spicer is what I always try to run, used moog balljoints one time and they wallowed out the hole. Never again. I meant what size ujoints at the tcase yoke and the diff pinion, 1310, 1330, 1350, or 1410? Thanks for the reply 👍

@@SomaCoalition oh gotcha. It’s a factory 1310 at the tcase and 1350 front and rear pinion.

@jcfabworks5418 Sweet, thanks for the reply. I'm dropping the tcase for a different upgrade figured I change the yoke to a 1350 but was worried I'd break something else in the driveline.

So the fenders I already had on it I pie cut and pulled out and welded back together. Then I just raised them up about an inch and then drilled new bolt holes and cut out all the extra fender

I can’t remember exactly. I’ll measure when I’m off work. Do you want to know both front and rear?

@@jcfabworks5418 both if you can. I wanna see what ot would cost me in aluminum or DOM. I appreciate it

@@pebblehoppertj my front lower links are roughly 2’6 and just did a short upper link for a radius arm. The rear lower links are 2’8 and the rear upper links for the triangulated 4 link are roughly 2’11. I pushed my rear axle back and cut out part of the skid plate to get as long of links as possible so unless you do that yours should be shorter. I’d say a minimum of 15 ft. If you’re doing a true 4 link in the front obviously more. Check out ruff stuff. They sell front and rear do it yourself link kits with hymes and all. Makes it a lot easier and you can order dom in custom sizes compared to having to buy a whole 20 foot piece.

@@jcfabworks5418 Thanks dude. I'm gonna a build a 4ink for my LJ. I already have the 14 joints from Summit Machine.

@@pebblehoppertj oh awesome. Super jealous you have an LJ. You might need a little more dom than me actually 😂.

It’s not full blown death wobble. I think it’s a combo of the tires not being balanced and the drive lines not being perfectly balanced. I can still drive it and have complete control of it just not too fun to drive after about 40 😂

And also what kind of year and model this this axle come off of. Thank you!

It’s a Dana 60 out of an 03 f250!