1978 Yamaha XS1100 Mikuni BS34 carbs fuel overflow SOLVED! I go over how far the float drops down is just as important as how it closes the float valve. Full video on the initial evaluation of the carbs: • Taking a look at the M...
Thanks. It's rarely necessary to address. Doesn't happen very often. It's one of these things where if you have a carb or carbs that just keep spewing gas after rebuild and rebuild again and again and again with all settings exactly to spec, you gotta look elsewhere than the normal stuff. Many carbs don't have float bowls deep enough to let the needle get cattywampus and jam up in the float seat. What I have found is, if you have a set of older Mikuni's that use the flat paper/composite gaskets on the float bowls and not the O-ring type like newer Mikuni's and almost all Kehin's, this is something to take a look at. Seems those carbs have the deeper float bowls. The early Keihin's and the low buck Honda's like the old XL's with the solid slide carb, where the throttle cable goes right into the slide, these type are definitely suspect. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL G'day champ, great last vid, very much, informative. Mate any chance you happen to ask the Z1R custom if he'd sell me that Z1R swing arm you so meticulously engineered so well ? Big fan. Cheers mate, G'day from OZ
@@mathewcridland1084 he's been away for work for quite some time. Should see him after first part of December. Email me your offer to motorestofl@gmail.com and I'll present to him. Please note, he hasn't made a 100% decision on which swing arm he's ultimately going with. Again, make sure you send an email. I will forget if I don't see it sitting there in my in-box. Cheers.
Wow, excellent troubleshooting here. I’m working on a customer’s VStar 650, and immediately after rebuilding the carbs (duals), I’m having massive fuel flow out of the carb breather tube. My first thought was, of course, bad float settings on the Jhinese rebuild kit that the customer supplied (w/ plastic floats, and the tiny clips that “secure” the needle to the float tang). But I’m really glad I came across this video, so now after I open the bowls back up, I can double-check those drop-stops and also check for a needle bind condition. Otherwise, might have adjusted the floats, buttoned-up the bowls and STILL had an overflow, and then have to open em up AGAIN. Thanks for this helpful vid!
I found this the hard way working as an apprentice on Virago Hitachi carbs that would always flood. After two years and many carbs I came across a float drop conversation and it solved all my problems. All the old men in my area were thrilled there were no drips under their Viragos, or Viagros, as the English would call them.
Excellent video! I'm tinkering with a 79 Kawasaki KZ650 and am unable to get the floats set correctly. Too much flow or too little/none. I live fairly close to you. Are you available to check them out?
@mikecogswell2364 I am feeling somewhat better now and had to cancel my motorcycle trip to TN so I am staying in town, if you want to reach out on these carbs, email me motorestofl@gmail.com and include your phone # and we'll talk. Thanks.
Glad I watched this. I just restored/cleaned a set of 3 from a 1978 Yamaha XS750 E. The bike hadn't run for many years, so the float bowls were stuck to the floats upon disassembly. The float drop tangs were likely bent when I forcibly separated the float bowls from the carburetor bodies. The engine ran well during the initial startup, but after the test ride, the engine wouldn't idle down. The carbs then showed signs of leakage and possible overflow. After watching this video, I now know where to investigate.
What is the silver knob between 2 and 3 ? And should there be hoses going from the over flow ports to the underside of the bike? The floats I read on 94-97 are unadjustible. Enjoyed the video and RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
What should the measurement be on the floats for the VFR750F floats? I'm gonna be pulling the carbs, I have a leak. So I'm gonna check everything. Also, the choke isn't working so I've got to check it out.
You'd have to ask a Mikuni engineer I don't know. Several Mikuni's are like that, the slow circuit is plugged at where it typically would be open, and there is a connecting port between the main and the slow where it ultimately gets its fuel from. Again, I don't know why. Just the way they did it.
