Overpower ambient light with flash 

Thanks Gavin, I like all of your tutorials, being non technical, simple and very useful! Hope to see a lot more!!

Thank you for the in depth. Finally a video where not only you took the picture, but you also showed the post prodcution. Thanks

Thank you Adorama, you are the best. I love your videos.

You are answering my questions as you go. Very nice!

Great video... Glad to see you back!!!

Love this tutorials! Welcome back! Keep on! (sharing this...)

Very useful and easy to follow. Super processing in Photoshop. You made it very easy to understand. Thank you, Gavin.

absolutely amazing! I really enjoyed this!

enjoyed that lessson. must add to my favourites

Hello Gavin i really like all your vídeos , you are the best 😁😁

Cheers, Gavin! Very informative and interesting. Entertaining too as you tried to walk gracefully over those rocks!

Cracking video! never knew there was even a global brush when you important the raw files into Photoshop learned many new things in this video big thank you!

Hi Gavin. You are an awesome photographer and thank you for all the tips. I hope to some day produce pictures like yours. You are very inspiring.

Thanks Gavin, you gave us a "twofer:" the photo technique plus the post processing tips. Thanks again.

another great and easy to follow video tutorial Well Done Gavin

OK, Gavin.... This is fantastic! I seldom do much global adjusting but I've been doing selective changes via layer masks. This accomplishes very similar results in half the time. Thank you so much for giving me a new tool in my arsenal!!!!

Excellent, excellent, excellent video! Thanks for sharing!

I'm still amazed every time I use content aware filling. It's like magic to me.

Gavin, You are The Best !

Great videos as always!

Great Video Gavin, and a great final image. :)

Photoshop blows me away, I'll never learn all of it but I certainly appreciate what you're showing us in these videos. Thank you!

You are one of the best

Thank you Gavin I learned a lot in this video.

Very nice indeed and very compehensive. Thanks a lot.

Have learnet so much from you, the best👌👌👌😙

amazing work , thanks for sharing

YES YES YES another great video

the enhancing on photoshop was a great help thanks

Excellent video!

Gavin one of the best videos I've seen on this particular subject! Liked and subscribed! What was your ISO set at during this shoot?

THat's just awesome to share , thankx !!!

great as always

great job Gavin

Everyone has a different way of teaching. But when mixing flash with ambient light, my method is always to have people shoot the first shot without the flash so that they can see what the ambient is doing first: three balls in the air at this point, ISO, speed and aperture. Therefore you can juggle them more easily to get the mood of the background that you want. Then add the flash. All you are left with then is power and flash to subject distance. Easier than juggling five balls straight away.

Good advice Gavin! Thanks! Have you got to play with the content aware fill yet? It could probably recreate the rocks pretty well.

Thanks Gavin x

Great vids Gavin, I too second and say I miss 15 minute photo challenges

very nice tips. thanks

Shooting in RAW is usually the best option anyway as it gives you more options in post. But what ever suits your workflow is best...

Aperture controls the flash exposure (as well as ambient) but Tv controls the ambient only. So once you have nailed the flash exposure, the best way to get as close to your desired result "in camera" is to adjust the Tv.

nice video..but instead of changing the apeture you could change the amount of flash directly too right?

Hi Gavin, why didn't u use the wireless setup similar the Nikon's CLS. Firstly I think the sync speed in 1/250 on the Canon and with the auto FP & modelling mode on too I believe you should be able to max the shuttle speed to 1/4000 or 1/8000 on the canon which give you a darker background and the fill flash at 1/2 or 1 power will fill in nicely onto the model. So why edit if its shot right in the first place? Thanks

True, it does. But if you are using a wide-angle lens and one speedlight then it's hard to get the flash close enough to get the right power to overpower the sun without getting the flash in the shot. However, I would definitely have had the flash on a stand/tripod, at head height. Low-light has a bit too much of a haloween feeling for me.

Yes. It also depends on how you want your background. Being that his background is....well the sky and far far away, he could use either. The cool thing is that you can adjust the fstop in between stops for the flash, if that makes sense. You can be a little more precise with the fstops in this picture.

Great vid, thanks for sharing.

Gavin! At last you are back with new video! What took you so long?

I know this is an older video, but I’m wondering about the harsh shadow on the inside of the umbrella , Would a modifier or a different position of the flash been the way to go? Just wondering..

So Simple, Thank you Gavin :)

Nice:-) As always, many thanks...

Awesome tutorial

Amazing job :)

love this.....

There seems to be lots & lots of Gorillapods. Which model did you use in this video? Thanks and I really enjoy and learn from your videos!

Hi Gavin. Love all your videos!!! Where did you buy your large Gorilla Pod please?

that content aware patch tool is fast, but for those rocks not terribly convincing. Nice tutorial as always Gavin.

your the best !!

Oh ok now I understand! Bc this once my camera was accidentally in RAW and it only opened (to preview) in photoshop Thank you! I am going to try thins :)

It's about the sky exposure and the flash exposure. Using the flash at full exposure would make the model to pop out from the back ground, turning the flash down would not do the same amount of work. So he could either bring down aperture or use ND filters.

can i get a copy of the photo to use in photoshop

what zoom settings did you use for your flash. I tried some off camera flash work the other day and sometimes my pictures were half lit.

you are the best

very cool

Gavin, why do you aim your camera then bring it back on the model for the shot?

GEEENIUS !!!!!

I want buy a camera about £130, 200$. What advise me to do, what do you think about the bridge cameras ? Thank you for reply !

What was the first program you used?

So how do I get it to that screen? ..Sorry Im new to this lol

You can do both, bring the f-stop down or flash down keep the f-stop. Bring the f-stop down will save you a lot of time keep walking to you flash changing the function and walk back to where you want to shoot. If you did not get the right one again, you have to walk back and change it again. Great if without assistance.

why do you remove the flash? .. it's there, so it can stay .. or am i wrong?

really nice tutorial +++

I thought the max. sync speed of the speedlight 580 II is 1/250. I never had problems with this.

It looks like he does but in fact he aims on the model presses the shutter button half-way to lock focus and moves her to the side - recomposes the frame. He could have set the AF (autofocus) point to the one positioned more to the side but I guess he is just used to work this way. I do it the same way

For the one man fighter, that is the best he can do. He is here to help someone new.

Some of the flash can only handle less the 1/200 sec shutter speed. If you shoot over, you will notice that the shutter close after the flash has launched, not at the same time the flash launching. However, with the latest flash technology, some camera and flash support shutter speed upto 1/250. Read some flash tutorial might help you explain why. Sorry for the unprofessional explanation, hope it helps.

Tank you

thank you:)

good !

First! One Nikon to rule them all! Jokes aside, great video!

If the image was raw, did it not need sharpening?

Sorry Gavin I would of cropped out the flash? it would look better!

instead of bring down the appereture by one stop cant he just bring the flash down to 1/2 and still use f8?

01:09 After taking picture of cute girl: "Yeah, that's about as boring as a photo can be". :)

perfect

Ahh okay thank you! :)

At 3:35 min description says F111 LOL! i know its typo , and on side noted great tutorial

Whatever it takes to get the photo you want.

I guess if you leave the flash on full power you only need to worry about changing the aperture.

no it's fine

P for Professional? 😉

It's camera raw in photoshop. Everything is in Photoshop.

I would've removed it as well. Why? Because it takes the focus off of the subject. The subject being the girl with the umbrella. It's all in your taste though. That's whats so great about photography.

Why? If you like the purist approach like I do, just position the flash or yourself so you don't need to remove afterwards. :-)

you made the light uneven with photoshop when removing the flash lol..

f/111 - nice! :D

Hello You forgot to mention the most important part of this video. Why dont you tell us how you expose on the background befor you take the shot on the model. Otherwise if you expose on the model you will always get the background underexpose. This is esential part of the video but you miss that out. OOhhhh i get it !!

Video starts @ 0m28s

Couldn't you just change the power of your flash instead of increasing your aperture? Just curious.

It opens when you shoot in RAW. If you shoot in jpg it won't open.. at least i think it's that haha

They used to say a photograph never lies, so I can prove to you that you are wrong. I have many images that prove the see does flow uphill in many places, Somerset included.