Ox Brake LHRB On A Honda CRF450L/RL? Meh. 

Hey John, you will need to use the supplied hand lever assembly in the kit to get the leverage ratio needed to lock up the rear wheel. Ox-Brake tried the "Shimano" unit that is used in this video and we experienced the same results....NOT enough leverage to lock up the wheel. The Shimano allows for keeping the grips on during install (why we tried it too), but it was not designed for our system, and will never have the leverage to work effectively. The current cable lever assembly (included in the kit) has the "leverage ratio" required for full-size motorcycles (it's the best we have found in over a 10 year search). We hope to one day offer a cable lever assembly that does not require the grip to be removed, but for now, we have not found a viable option. I hope that helps you understand our lever assembly choice (for performance + necessity... not to make you frustrated...). We would like help get your Cable OX LHRB system working as it was designed. I even have some new "stick-on" heated grips you are welcome to (I can't bring myself to use glue-on grips again). Also, we have a few "soon to be released" OX Hydraulic units that I hope you'll consider reviewing. Please reach out to us at: support@oxbrake.com, or give us a call: 385-315-7157. We look forward to hearing from you. Thanks!

As always, awesome video. You do the stuff that most of us only think about but never actually pull the trigger.

Please consider the following: 1. The Shimano lever you used doesn't have enough leverage, and was never designed or intended for use with the OX system. The lever you substituted, was tested by OX, and we found what you did... Not enough leverage/power to lock up the rear tire + requires more interior cable length (will discuss that further below). 2. The interior cable was too short because the Shimano lever you used requires more interior cable length... thus, why it was too short for the internal cable to reach the "pedal adapter" (Again, it won't function the way you modified the system... it wasn't designed for the lever you used (requires less interior cable length), and using a Shimano lever not designed for our system, created essentially every single problem you encountered. 3. Your complaints about how hard you had to pull, and the feel, are a direct result from you using parts not designed for the system (dead horse here... you broke the lever with the correct leverage the system was designed for, and used one that won't ever work with our system). 4. You spent almost 40 minutes testing a system, with a a lever that OX will not use for the same reasons you found. We could have told you not to use that lever and not waste almost 40 minutes on this review in 20 second phone call... Again, OX found the "shimano" lever to have terrible leverage. The included OX lever you broke has a leverage adjustment (it can be increased, or decreased), and it has substantially more leverage/power than what you substituted. The levers are not even in the same "ballpark," and again... OX tested it, and we won't use it.... even with as much as OX want's to offer a easier mounting lever. There is not an easier mounting lever, with the correct leverage necessary. 5. Your rating of "5" of "10" stars out of the box doest seem accurate or reallypossible... you didn't use the OX system out of the box. You modified it... and used parts not designed for the systems. knowing what you did.... on a "swear scale," that made the review a little painful to watch knowing how much effort you put into it. Sadly, much time has been wasted and our OX Honda cable LHRB misrepresented. You should have called us to get you a replacement lever, so this review could be accurate (also, I have stick on heated grip pads you can have too... I will never use glue on grips again...I will send them with the correct lever). Again, in 20 seconds we could have told you exactly the pain you would "self inflict" by either assuming all levers have the same leverage ratios and require the same internal cable length (or the specifically, the Shimano does not have sufficient leverage for the OX system). 6. You seem intelligent. However, we told you in the comment below that we found exactly what you did with the lever you used. Why did you not get the correct lever, so an accurate review could be posted? This is a review on a "OX-Brake, modified with parts OX knows won't work." Again, by using parts the OX system was not designed for, you modified it, and it will NEVER work how you modified it. There is no question you are very entertaining, have great video + editing skills, great commentary... but your problems could have been avoided if you used the product with the parts we designed the system to use. Call us: oxbrake.com (385)-707-3723. We will send you the correct lever (and heated grip pads). Further, we are looking for test riders for our new Nissin Hydraulic system. You are very discerning, and we would love to send you one to test before it ever reaches the public. Also, all of our hydraulic systems have been revised for 2022... (all new pistons sizes for optimized modulation + power). Nothing that resembles "mush" (any properly setup Hydraulic OX system.. should not ever feel like mush... let us help you get that running perfect). Lastly, after buying and testing every LHRB on the market we could find... our new Hydra 2.0 is the most powerful Hydraulic LHRB for a KTM, HUSKY, or GasGas... soon for Yamaha, Honda, Beta, Kawasaki, and others. We would like to get you a newly released Hydra Pro 2.0 for you to review on your KTM. Again, please call or reach out to: support@oxbrake.com. Sincerely, we wish you the very best, and want to get you more products to review, and the replacements parts for you Honda LHRB, so you will see for yourself how it works with the parts it was designed with. I truly wish we had more people like you, that are willing to put this much effort into a review + make it entertaining. I hope you take us up on the offers we have proposed. Regardless, All the best!! Keep making people laugh... Even with this botched install🤣... I couldn't help but laugh at times too. Although, lets get this set straight... Thanks for your time. Sincerely, Ox Motorcycle Products

Hi mate, I've just found your channel and binge watched about 25 episodes to catch up...loving it! I've learned so much in just a couple of days from your trials and tribulations. Watching this one reminded me so much of my building days it made me laugh out loud. FYI, as far as swearing goes, I've found the Italians are hard to beat. They have words and phrases that make you wish you didn't have a soul! Thanks very much for all your work and effort, appreciating every second down here in Australia. Cheers, Jon.

We all have one of these days when everything goes wrong. It's always best to pack up the tools and come back another day.

I know it's pricy but you might want to invest in a Clake II or a Clake pro lever which will give you brake and clutch on the same leaver. I have it on my Husqvarna FE 350 and I would not go back to a normal lever, also got rid of the rear brake foot pedal all together. I hated the foot rear brake leaver ever since I started riding when I was 14 years old. I always wanted to ride my dirt bike like a mountain bike. Now I can.

Hey John Any chance you've tried the rekluse version on the crf? I'm about to install a radius X and lhrb on my bike

The Shimano and Avid use very different leverage ratios. The Shimano is for a different style of brake.

Just an FYI, not sure if it was mentioned. Pro Taper ACF bar has a bunch more control space to put extra stuff. They seem to have the same bends as the EVO.

Interesting that your experience was as bad as mine on a CRF250L. Not specifically for the bike, but I tried. It was removed & is in a parts tote.

Just started getting into these . When it started going pear shaped I couldn’t stop laughing as I’ve been there ! Well done for persevering 🏆👍✊😉

I just got to minute 26:00, and some feedback if you ever decide you want to go back in and raise the rear brake foot lever... You could shorten the cable housing by the necessary length (I'd cut at the lever end), or get a longer mountain bike brake cable that you can cut to length and keep the current housing. Actually, if you put in a new brake cable you could just pull the old cable out at the lever end, and slide the new cable in the adjust the brake lever back to the place you want. If you are going to cut the housing, either use a round cable housing cutter, or a blade. Don't use any cutters that are scissor like (wire cutters, tin snips, etc). It will crush the housing. Same for the brake cable. I do a lot of this stuff building bicycles. Anyway, just a suggestion. Do with it what you wish.

I have the mushy brakes on one of my street bikes. Friend told me it was because the fluid heats up and gets mushy. Recommended wrapping the brake line in heat shielding wrap or get brake oil with a much higher operating temp

I don’t think I will do that mod. Thanks for showing it though.

Not sure how you bled the brakes, but I've had some that I couldn't get all of the air out using the conventional method of building up pressure then releasing the bleeder valve. I started using a hand actuated vacuum pump to pull from the bleeder valve, which worked to get all of the air out. Could be weak lines contributing to the problem, but likely some air trapped in the system somewhere.

I tired a clake on my crf450l and it fucked my starter motor teeth and cogs, tried all sorts to get the hydraulic clutch to work, -absolute nightmare - would drag on the clutch when starting on hills in gear, thinking of reklus and a rear hyro brake now with zero clutch lever, the rear hyro rear brake worked gr8 though... thinking Rekluse with zero clutch might work.

Looks like that company just took a bicycle hand brake, made a bracket to mount to the foot brake lever and called it a day. Cables are horrible as far as lever feel when it comes to brakes. I think I’ll move on. Rekluse has an awesome system that is hydraulic.

Pretty cheezy set up

That thing is a BMX / MTB break lever. You can buy it everywhere. Find a hopetech one.

What are those things called on the side of your KTM called that allow you to grip your bike with your boots? How do you like them?

I've been riding mountain bikes from when they first came out in the early 80's. I got into dual sport biking recently, and I HATE where the rear brake is. I didn't realize this was even an option, but it's got me thinking about getting away from the rear break foot lever. That rear brake lever looks like a mid-level short mountain bike brake lever. Edit: And then at 8:50 he shows that he broke the lever and is using another mountain bike brake lever. CALLED IT! Too funny.

Love your videos John. Re- the mushy brake. The hydraulic pressure must go somewhere. I suspect the hydraulic hose has walls that are too thin or too soft rubber so it swells when you brake. Maybe try a steel-braided hose when you have time to fill…🌻

You’re probably going to have to try the Rekluse hydraulic left hand brake to get the feel and power you’re looking for.

YYYYOOOOOOO !!! i just went through this... throw out that master MT5 sucks it... go get hs33 plus the hose kit for magura. and your good to go... !!!!!

Thanks for sharing. Did you ever fix the ox brake softness?

I have the hydraulic Ox on my 20 Husky 350 and it works fine. The lever is firm. Not sure why yours isn't...

mostly used for wheelie control....pretty sure they have the rear brake leaver a lot lower so the cluch leaver is not so high...... love the vids as always 👌

Your experience is the same as mine, really overpriced for the quality you receive. I was happy to remove it.

I appreciate your content. Thanks for bringing it. But, I usually feel negative after watching your videos. Not always but usually. I have to snap out of it so I don’t stay down there.

I sure hope you wenr back to the hydraulic set up !? the master is bad in ur ox brakes.. you can make the hydraulic set up really stiff.

best part of the video is the last few seconds.

John, John, John, OMG, that was hard to watch...it brings back ALL the frustrations I had, figuring out how to mount the Rekluse MC/perch. Now unfortunately, seeing you broke the Ox perch, the replacement does not have the cable adjustment to change the leverage (pull effort) on the lever, and hence, you have a REALLY hard pull....I think it would be so different if you had the "proper setup". Curious about the drone footage at the end, was that just automatically tracking you ??? that's great :), and what happened at the end, it looked like the drone was about to land in your hands, then took off into the shrubbery. Cheers, and thanks for putting this up. :)

Lol You tell them John!!! It would've been nice to have a two piece mounting bracket.

Just a thought in bleeding the brake - did you keep it on a stand when you bled the brake? If yes, try to lean the bike at an angle similar to what a side stand would do and then bleed the brake. This worked on my Tenere 700 and was suggested by the company selling the brake lines. I always enjoy your videos and I like listening to you working things out on the fly. Cheers John be well.

Kind of reminds me of " The Oxbow Incident ".

A sad and sorry tale John! I wonder, as a test, is it worth withdrawing the cable from its routing and running it straight over the top of the seat down to the cylinder perch to see if leverage and feel is improved? The hydraulic version as per your KTM, might be better, but Ox Brake don't make one (yet?) for Honda AFAIK...

You mentioned your bike’s getting fat… how much does she weigh fully set up?

therd pull the inner cable out of the outer sheeth, then cut a couple inches off the outer sheeth. this will give youva few inches more lenth to the inner cable.???? or get a longer inner cable😄😄😄

Haha. Thanks for the vid. I found this pretty damned funny!

Goodday John if the 450 is getting a little fat you may need to look at a Husky 701 🛵 stay safe

5:50 hahahaha

It looks too agricultural to me ;-). Anyway spanish has a lot of swear language I know is may domestic language. Be patient ;-)

First!