With this video I want to stress the importance of the voltage input. We can not rely on the pressure signal. It may not be accurate without the voltage present.
Haven't replaced the sensor yet but I definitely want to thank you for such a goo description of what I must do. You hit the nail on the head with my symptoms . My excursion is an 04 and the sensor must be underneath because I could not see it near the oil filler. I did not order the pig tail hoping I could fix it myself. I hope I didn't kick myself in the butt by not ordering one. Thanks again Al
hi Ron really helpful video I change my icp by myself after first start no more check engine light on just kinda hard remove the cover shield thanks alot Ron
Hey Ron after seeing your videos went out and bought the scan gauge 2 to monitor my truck. My cousin called me yesterday that his truck will not start. 2003 Ford F-250. Hooked up my scan gauge and had the following readings. ICP was 0 key on IPR was 14.8 key on FICM was 47.5 key on SYC was 0 key on Turning truck over we had the following: ICP 350 IPR 85 FICM 47.5 SYC 1 So looking at your videos we have a leak. Pulled the IPR valve out and it looked ok but black oil so we decided to clean it out and reinstalled it. Now we get the following: ICP 715 IPR 85 FICM 0 Syc 0 Why or what could have happened to our FICM main power to go from 47.5 to 0(scan gauge) We checked FICM under the inspection cover and we get 48 volts but not on my scan gauge Also I would like to see ICP voltage, is this possible using scan gauge 2?
Watched this video and thought it doesn't look to bad. The truck i worked on had oil leaks,but the shield was missing. I used a deep 12 point socket. Cut the socket so it fit close to the sensor. Used a swivel head 1/2" drive ratchet and got the sensor out. Got the new sensor started and had to turn it in with my finger tips. Maximum stretch on the arm,but my finger tips kept getting grease on them. After about the 5th time,i put a rag over my hand and screwed the sensor in till it touched the O-ring. Got the sensor tightened with the ratchet,but plugging it in took forever. After a dozen tries to plug it in i finally heard the click sound. Like i tell everyone,Fords pay the mortgage :)
Once you get under the truck, it’s pretty easy to do (to me). I used a zip tie to move the hose out of the way and used a regular breaker bar to swap it then used a electric ratchet to get the rest. I recommend the electric ratchet 100% comes in handy so much
This video was very helpful since my 2004 6L F-350 had error P2285, too. Just a few notes: 1) This fix is much harder than is shown in the video. The access is quite limited. Prepare to stretch and extend your arm way up above the clutch bell-housing... it's on the drivers side and no access is through firewall is available nor a top-down approach.2) Limited sight. Some bolts, like one that is 13mil for the heatshield that is on the backside of the exhaust line is out of site entirely. Blind removal and install... sequence the top two heatshield 10mil bolts first, then install the 13mil...3) Correction to the size of socket mentioned in this video: You will want a 1-1/16" deep socket, instead of 15/16's. 4) Since I didn't have the nice fan-wrench shown in the video to remove the sensor I had to create an alternative in order to ratchet the socket once seated onto the ICP Sensor... I had to create a 1/2" adapter to slot into the square hole of the socket and then use a 1/2" wrench to loosen the sensor followed by hand twisting to unthread and remove. Otherwise, there was no clearance for the ratchet to lock into the socket female slot. 5) Be sure to clean the oil off the male portion of the wire tail plug if oil is all over it. This is imperative and not mentioned n the video. I had to blow it dry for 5-10min following a clean wipe as much as possible.6) With no visibility and limited access it took me 3 hours to remove and 2 hours for install. The heatshild bolts took a while do to space constraints in holding. Everything was done single handedly so that was a major setback.
you are 100% correct........I just did this last night on a 2004 F550. Definitely 1 1/16 3/8 drive deep well. AND if you are going to do this job make sure you have the socket first. its a special order. I called EVERY auto parts store including, sears, home depot, lowes, auto zone, oriellys and harbor freight and NO ONE HAD THE 1 1/16 deep well 3/8 drive. a 1/2 WONT WORK. FIND A SNAP ON OR MATCO OR MAC TRUCK DRIVER IN YOUR AREA first. Socket is around 60 bucks, snap on guy told me 40 cash. I had to call a Snap On truck driving who was getting ready for bed and BEG to have him sell it to me from his house (luckily he did and gave me a discount cause he felt bad, luckily his route included a Ford dealership here in Vegas, he knew exactly what I was talking about) im a 250 pound man with big arms, the shield was a HUGE pain to get out then the sensor, after I got the correct socket 3 hours after starting. I had NO LIFT or PIT to work under/in. did this job on the ground. my neck is killing me and my face was pretty much black with grease due to smashing it against the damn oil pain and suspension pieces. My Ford Master Tech friend (in another state) told me I was crazy for doing this with out a lift and that I would NOT be able to do it, him and his co-workers called me stupid (no joke). So Don't let this comment scare you, just have what you need with you under the truck and you can do it. it just takes some time, took me 5 hours total with about 1 hour of that actually working. the other 4 hours was calling parts stores and driving 30 minutes one way to get the damn socket. honestly its only an hour or 2 hour job. just be able to work completely blind with your arm wedged in between parts. OH and FYI for me a regular ratchet worked for me. PLUS that snap on socket, 1 1/16 3/8 drive, has a snap ring that holds the sensor in the socket, makes life super easy. I had the ratchet installed into the socket with the new sensor and I fit in in the hole. there was barely enough clearance. OK my rant is over. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS feel free to msg me or reply to this comment. I should respond quickly due to my lack of a life! take care and good luck!
Diesel Tech Ron, I have a 2004 Ford F250 that cranks but WILL NOT START. the OBD code reads P2285 low ICP. We have replaced the EGR and oil cooler, the head gaskets, still wont start. Tested and cleaned the ipr and icp still wont start. Tested the FICM and it tests OK??? I have oil pressure so Im assuming that the HPOP is functioning. So What do you suggest with the code as well as with what all Ive done?
ron i have an early 04 6.0 powerstroke and i have a hard start hot condition. icp desired and actual are very close to one another sometime actual is higher than desired that should rule out high pressure oil leak, when hot icp actual jumps to 1100 psi when started then dies, also when the truck is in park and you rev it over a 1000 rpms and try to hold it the truck shudders. any help would be appreciated.
I have the same code, yet my voltage is showing on my scangauge to be in normal range. I've already ordered the new pigtail and sensor anyway. Why would I get the code and voltage show normal?
I Ron. I have an 04 Excursion that was just bulletproofed. However, I am still having a long start issue. Also, once engine is up to operating temps the oil pressure drops periodically. This morning the truck wouldn't even crank, the battery was reading 6 volts. My question is - could dead batteries cause the long start issue and oil pressure issue? When at idle the battery drops volts (down to 11) and that's when the pressure drops. Thank you
Ron I'm get a intermitten surging idle on a 03. Only when it's warmed up. Icp voltage usually around 1 when oily acts up it drops to .7 and back up. Any ideas? Ipr will go from 22 to 25 when it happens too
high Ron, my icp is brand new, but the voltage is reading 0.0, I put on the old icp and I'm still receiving the 0.0 voltage. My truck will not start with either icp connected...can you help?
Ron I need help, I've watched almost all your videos and they have helped alot, but still haven't found a fix for my latest issue, I've got a 2003 6.0 with 290,955.5 miles was running rough pinned it down to a bad injector o-ring. When I replaced them I developed a hpo leak so I re-ringed the system still no luck, cranks but won't start. I have low oil pressure, 15% ipr koeo, 56-57 icp, 48 fmp key on and cranking, sometimes the ficm will sync sometimes it won't max icp while cranking is 100. Icp was changed no difference, ipr was changed for a known good and still same result, any help is much appreciated, I'd take it to a mechanic but none of the mechanics near me will touch it, they hate 6.0's.
Does anybody know what that Snap-On socket number is he's using I'm assuming it's something shorter than the standard socket.. I'm not talking about the 15/16 socket I mean the socket
COULD YOU PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO OF HOW TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR ON A ECONOLINE 350???... I just seat there looking at it and wonder for hours thinking how the hell can I work on it with NO ROOM AT ALL!... thank you.
I have a 03 early 04 6.0 .. The other day it shut down when i came to a stop and wont start since then .. I had a problem before with it NOT starting when hot .. Icp was at 58psi and ipr is reading 85% .. I unplugged the icp and didnt start.. Fuel pressure was good and all clean filters .. What would you think would be wrong ? And btw i did replace a all the o-rings on the stand pipes and hoses .. Oil rail couplers where tight and firm so i didnt bother to change those so im looking for the cause of the no starting now.
Hers are my readings with the old icp . Ficm I have 48.50v. Icp I have 25psi at 0.21v . Ipr I have at 14.84%. Is the injector control pressure desired supposed to be a 0.0psi when running? Because when I it is key on engine on it has the same psi as the icp at 630 psi
I like how navistar/international made this engine so that most of the sensors are where you can just barely get at. It seems stupid to have all these sensors in place of a overly complicated and crappy system. Not hating on any brands, I'm a Ford kinda person, a Ford with a Cummins kinda guy.
Hi my name is Samuel and I have a question for a 2003 ford f450 6.0 what the code P2289 involves I will really appreciate if you can give sort of idea what could it be
I have a 6.0 with icp reading 230psi key on engine off and have .45v I have an early 04 truck I put all new injectors on it before I got the code with low icp. (Icp sensor is the new style. I got better readings with the old one on it.)
I've got a 06 6.0 and I've watched a whole lot of your videos and can't figure out what's wrong with my truck the ipr sets at 14.8 key on engine off has a long start but will start up and it's completely stock besides exhaust and lift that's all I have ficm power at 48v and my icp on idle sets around 600. But when I take of it blows out black smoke like it's chipped and it'll surge forward then idle high then go back down and lope and then it blows thick black clouds but the it is really quick on the throttle response and I'm am stumped because shops told me it's fuel filters so I had them changed and it still does it so I'm hoping you might be able to throw some pointers my way please help
@DieselTechRon my ICP connector didn’t have the factory heat sleeve. Heat shield was there, just not the insulated sleeve. Do you recommend getting a new sleeve or should the heat shield suffice?
I currently am on my 6th ICP sensor and guessing I'm about to be on my 7th as I barely made it out of the driveway and turn around and came back. Someone from O'Reilly's told me that the company quit warranting it after the 12th for a guy. My question is what causes it and I'm guessing a bad design
Ron I have a 2005 f250 starts up find and isles fine when u go to pull out and give it throttle it shuts down and shifts really hard what would u suggest it is?
what the icp should be when the truck runing i got 540 before crank and when its runing its not going above 600 is it normarl your doing a ggod job whit your video im from quebec canada an here there no body to help you even ford got probleme to fix teme sory for the spelling im french hahaha
Hey fellas, I have an 03 6.0. Runs great, but when in gear all power is gone. Gotta hold it to the floor to get it to move. I’ve changed fuel filters, Could the icp fix this?
Hello brother. Can you explain about the indication of the engine when the icp has problems. Seems like engine run rough,low power,no accelleration or any possible symptom. Thank you
Ron passed away several years ago, his family keeps the videos going. He's helped many of us from beyond the grave. Keep looking I'm sure he's covered what you need.
i got a question, i have a 2003 6.0 early model with a crank no start only when hot. took valve covers off and disable injectors and cranked over and checked for leaking injector and none were leaking. could the pump be causing this crank no start when hot only. or should i maybe look at icp or ipr?
My buddy has a 2006 6.0 it won't start after he shut if off tha oil pressure gauge goes up u think it be ipr sensor I haven't took tha oil filter out 2 see if there oil pumping been so busy tha check engine light not own
Ron I have a 2005 F250 Ford it runs to 15 to 20 minutes and the it dies then I have to wait 15 to 30 minutes to cool down then and runs and then it dies again please help first time owning a Ford 911 my name is Steve
I don't know. What is icp voltage key on engine off, icp pressure, IPR percent, Ficm sync and Ficm voltage? Any misfires, codes or symptoms? How are you testing for codes? Generic scanners pull generic or emission related codes
Had a family member's 06 all stock truck die on the road while driving at high speed then would not start... As a tip from reading and videos about unplugging icp, I went ahead & pulled the icp pigtail plug to diagnose it but still did not start... Truck was towed and then scanned at shop showing code 2285... Shop replaces the icp and it fixes the no start... Does this code usually cause a no start as well if icp is bad even if we tried starting it with icp unplugged? Truck has 105k miles if that makes a difference... I am just taking all the 6.0 failures in so that I can learn to deal with my own 06 with 36k miles when problems do come around...
hey, Im having a problem with my 04 Ford 6.0. i cant figure out what my issue is. Would you have any input? for the past week my trucks volatage is surging up and down from 10.9V all the way to 14.5V ..... sometimes it stays at 14V for a while and my headlights start flashing on and off and you can see the volts going up and down. (im seeing my Volts on a pioneer avic d3 indash screen, which reads voltage.) and the volume on my radio cuts in and out as well. The truck seems to be performing like normal mechanically wise, however giving me the electrical surge. Please let me know if you have any idea as to what this problem could be. Thanks a million!!!
