Painting a Dappled Grey Model Horse - Tutorial Series, Part 4 

I currently working on my 54mm (1/32 scale) Roman Circus Maximus chariot race game. The track is 4ft x 8ft with 8 lanes. I've scratch built all the chariots and am using 54mm Airfix horses from their Napoleonic series. Eventually there will be eight four horse chariot teams, right now each chariot only has two horses each. Upgrading to the four horse teams will require a larger track, possibly as large as 8ft x 16ft. At least one of the teams will be painted dapple grey. I also have a 3ft diameter Playmobil Roman arena that we use with my 54mm gladiator miniatures.

nagrom bot if u look up breyer customs the breyer horse website will pop up on reccomended and it shows you how to do it with pastel chalk!!

Follow how I do the Bay or Sorrel tutorial, then just (lightly) spray some white over the top of the body color. For blue roans, paint the whole horse black, then go in with white for the roaning. You'll have to go back and darken in some spots after. That's the simplified way, but it does work! I also do it with earth pigments, but that's a much more extensive process.

+Breyer Roses Personally - I only use airbrush (using acrylic paints) and pastels for base coats. The only thing I hand paint with acrylics are white markings and details. I just think it's way too easy to end up with paint streaks if you try to hand paint the whole model.

+Boe Brooker I personally use Dullcote for most of my horses. I've also used a brand called Treehouse, but its more for an overall finish, not for spraying between layers of pastels.

ok thanks

I like Testor's Dullcote. Expensive and very tiny cans, but it's always worked well for me!

+Happy Pony Studios I would add more of the matte spray. You can only put so much pastel on before it won't stick anymore. You really have to do it in layers. Put some on, spray, repeat.

Ok, thanks. I've been using layers, but im trying to be conservative, maybe be less conservative huh?

It's going to take a LOT of layers no matter what you do. I'm not very conservative when I do mine, but you do have to be careful when you put a lot on there at once. It can create a grainy look instead of a smooth, even look.

ok, thanks again! thats my winter / snowed in project. I have several models Im working on for customizing, so this is verry helpful information. Thanks Again!

Colors I do videos on are just based on what I am planning to paint soon anyway - You can refer to my bay video to get a dark bay (just add more umber), and add dapples with dark brown or black pastels :)

+Camille683 The pastels I started out with I got from Hobby Lobby or from taking a pastel worksop at Breyerfest. My newer pastels (in the pans) I had to buy online and they're quite a bit more expensive.

It's on my list to do! As soon as I have a horse that needs to be painted in roan, I will be doing a video!

thank you sooooo much

Testor's Dullcote. It's my finish coat. I spray between layers so it doesn't come off and I can continue to add more.

The pastels are panpastels. The brushes aren't anything specific - I actually tend to get cheaper brushes because I destroy them. I do have some really nice brushes I use for detailing, but this isn't them. xD

It's just a spray primer - like a spray can. You can get it anywhere you can get spray paint. It should not be sticky after it dries, but it does help the paint to stay on the horse.

+Amelia Badelia It should. A lot of people use a kneadable eraser. I personally just use erasers you can get for mechanical pencils.

I use Dullcote. It works best for me, but it can be more expensive than other methods/brands.

My appaloosa patterns are done entirely by hand. So I guess I could do a speed-paint type of thing where you watch me paint the same white markings forever, but I just thought it wouldn't be very interesting. There's not much I can really teach there. Just use tiny brushes, be willing to spend a TON of time on it, and go slow! Build up the layers.

It will (Mostly) rub off until you spray a layer of finish on it. Once the finish coat is on, its not coming off without stripping the whole model.

+Wild Horse Studios ok thanks! Your custom is super nice 😊

thatmodel horsechick I will add it to my list! There's not much difference to liver chestnut from the original chestnut/sorrel video I did, just more of the darker brown color, but I will do a video anyway! It just so happens that I have one this month that is supposed to be a liver chestnut too!

Ok thank you I have a PS Palouse that I want to paint a liver chestnut and I don't know which colors to use or how to paint one. :)

+Camille683 for a red, please refer to my Chesntut video. I don't use pastels for all colors. I mainly work in acrylic. I do all appaloosa patterns by hand. I might be able to make a time lapse video, but I'm not sure there will be much for me to talk about. It takes a minimum of 7 hours to create a standard appaloosa blanket on a traditional model, and that's without too much extenisve hairing or a very extensive pattern. I create them the same way as any other white marking.

+Wild Horse Studios thanks a bunch!:) Your videos really help a lot!:)

Drachen Einhorn You can use the first method I showed on the resin and airbrush the dark grey ace coat if you want. It ends up looking pretty much the same. You can airbrush the dapples too (I'm going to put them in a different video), but it's difficult, easy to mess up, and for me it takes much longer. I didn't want to put it in this video because i knew this one was already going to be really long.

Okay, thank you

Years. This is my 5th year working on models as a job and having my own studio. I practiced a couple of years before I started the studio as well. It takes time to learn what works for you!