Painting Minis for Beginners - Space Marines Using the New Warhammer Paint Set 

Thinking the same shitXD

MARNEUS, GET THE CODEX THE HEAVY CODEX

That made me laugh so hard

They don’t care she still bought the set

its basically pre-heresy World Eaters

I saw some ones tau army that had a white and Maroon or dark red old republic color scheme. I don't like the tau but I admit it looked very good.

Are the primer sprays at Home Depot too thick for minis?

@@metj6885 yes

@@metj6885 it depends on the brand, although you can get some cheap primer on Amazon that works

I learned from that. A helpful moment in the video as someone planning on dipping a brush into corax white for the first time tonight.

New to the hobby?

Dry brushing is an incredibly easy to learn technique that can give amazing results. Practice it and you'll see immediate improvements to your models.

Resting arms/ellbows on the table helped me a ton improving stability.

I just paint the eyes and if if I mess up around it I just paint over it. I also press my wrists up against my chest.

I just started 40k but I used to paint car and army sets, w/ pilots minute detail I would use a toothpick to drop the paint and kinda steer it.

GW's thinner is called lahmian medium if you want to be sure you have a compatible thinner, although i'd suggest 50/50 medium and water with a wash :)

To be honest I think the main reason they give you agrax is because you get nuln in the necron set, and they wanted the paint sets to compliment eachother. Nuln is definitely better for shading macragge blue though. To be fair though, you can just thin down the abaddon black and use it to recess shade with reasonable results. The other good thing about this set is that can use the corax white to mix a highlight colour for the blue armour or the black gun casing. You could definitely almost paint a 'parade ready' ultramarine with this set. Having both black and white gives you a lot of potential to mix shade or highlight colours and build up layers. The main problems are that there is no red to paint the eye lenses, no silver for the gun parts, and no way to highlight the gold. However you could buy mephiston red and stormhost silver and you'd be good to go.

@@EternalQuestion Corax is a bit dodgy though, how many times have I opened a new bottle and there's a slimy solid ball in the middle and I've had to stab at it to break it upand then had to add Vallejo Matt Medium to it. The Agrax Earthshade is great for necrons which I like to have a dirty look about them as they've been underground in a slumber for thousands of years. Would have been nice to include a pot of Calgar Blue for edge highlighting though on the ultramarines.

@@davedogge2280 Lol, that has definitely happened to me as well. Usually it's still usable, but for sure Corax is not a good paint. The spray is even worse. Calgar blue would be nice, but it's a beginner paint set, so I guess they are not expecting many people to be edge highlighting with it. For me the silver is the biggest omission. The model doesn't even look finished without the silver parts painted on the gun.

It is an inverted omega.

@@terratime2005 it is not, it looks like one but that's what a upsilon looks like

@@ColeNOXyd2nd I do not know what is the most reliable website to use for languages/alphabets so I have provided a wikipedia link. It is the Greek symbol omega. You can also find it (more relibale) on word documents. Go to insert symbol, more symbols, greek/coptic. It is an inverted capital Omega. Here is the link: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_alphabet

@@terratime2005 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upsilon and scroll down to Latin Upsilon

@@ColeNOXyd2nd fair enough. I am familiar with the Greek alphabet, not the latin one. Both statements are accurate descriptions of the symbol. I did not realise from your original statement you meant the Latin alphabet. It certainly fits the Latin terminology used as well as the Roman themes underlying the chapter.

That is how my first ER trip happened

i do the same thing, meh. Super glue is always close by

Lol I was forged in this fire, I used to cut models from the sprues with a carpet cutter (like a box cutter but the blade is a hook shape) when I was about 12-14, to cut a long story short I now have a scar from the tip of my thumb to the knuckle both top and bottom...it cut my thumb in half from tip to knuckle...always be safe with knifes folks 👍🏻

@@nukem8128 if you apply a layer of it beforehand, it helps a lot to prevent the wound.

I like your videos but please... if this is an instructional video for beginners, cut away from your fingers!

ACRYLIC Thinner (Isopropyl Alchahol) is ok but stinks, and well a bit like paint/ glue sniffing, for younger gamers especially Distilled water is perfect for thinning acrylics and non toxic

Corax White is everyone's nemesis. It's the bane of all.

SUPER late response but from I can tell ultramarines having a purplish hue to them seems to be a standard, so it makes since that macragge blue has a purple hue as well

the codex astartes does not support "aiming" and "tactical manouver" charge in and use your sword!

show off

Sounds American to me

Lol! I've got to clean the hobby room from other projects before I can get at my wh40k toys to paint them XD

I've got the same problem with the white

I've found the first release of Corax White to be somewhat bad, but the pots I've picked up more recently have been the most amazing White I've ever known and makes painting White pretty reasonable. Like I've found it to be one of the *best* paints, ironically. It can massively benefit from an agitator ball though, yeah.

@@PavelThorsonos I need to get me one of them. Wonder if a couple of BBs would do the job

Yes, they have. Primaris marines are notably larger than the lil old marines

@@swordnsteele712 Ah. That explains it. I thought you were just tiny so that the models looked huge in your hands. :P Thank you! I'm thinking about getting back in to painting.

I hate the Ultra-Smurfs !

Let's see, the first layer would be wetbrushing on, and then, if a shade goes over it, after the shade has dried, I would drybrush a final highlight on :)