I've watched about 20 different painting videos with steps to paint vehicle. This is a great tip video on how to paint better. Learned a ton of this video and excited to paint vehicle this summer. Started getting tools last year after towing twice for flat tires also a tow for a starter. Did oil changes, brakes and bleeding brakes, intake, and cat back exhaust. Also cleaned throttle body. All thanks to youtube vids like this. Thank you for taking the time to help to teach do it yourselfers. :)
this is by far the best self help paint video. ive watched so many hours of these to help me as i gear up for my first time on the gun to paint a sportster tank (metalic forest green/ semi gloss black) and i feel ready for the challenege. prep work ive spent hours going over every square inch to make it flawless now i feel ready to paint. thank you for this video its made thing so much easier to understand with out feeling like im being talked down to.
Thank you very much my friend. I am making a video today about using a gun, different settings and tip sizes, spraying base and clear coats, and how to clean a gun.
you nailed my problem I had on my spoiler . I didn't seal it , just scuffed and cleaned and sprayed my base coat it checked and cracked in a few places . now I know !
I work for one of the largest auto body parts supliers in the country and you are 100% correct about the different grades in parts. Always get a CAPA or Platinum Plus grade part, even in lights and mirrors. They are the best grade of all of them and with the lights they don't fade as quick or bad as the cheaper versions.
Squirrel, do you happen to know if your company does the priming of the primed parts it sells, or does your company rely on the part manufacturer to provide the part primed? Since your company is one of the largest suppliers, they probably follow the industry standard, and it would be helpful for me to know for future part purchases. Thanks.
I noticed you scratched the bumper with a red Scotch-Brite pad I use the gray Scotch-Brite pad they are finer on bumpers and painted parts while using red on new sheet metal. I do not ever seal a new part prior to painting. never, I think you're wasting your time and your money. Also with regard to cut in, I like to clear my bumper complete and then I can look and see do I need to put any more clear where I see any dry spray. A lot of guys will try and cut in behind a door handle rather than coating as if there is no handle or recessed area. We think we need to cut in those areas but we really don't. I have been painting since 1971! Thanks for taking the time to make this video Pete awesome
Pete, love you stuff but on several points you're mistaken 1) Urethane reducer IS LACQUER THINNER. The chemicals used to make urethane reducer are exactly the same as a normal lacquer thinner check the MSDS sheets as these will list the chemicals. What makes urethane reducer different from lacquer thinner is that it has a very low WATER content. This is very necessary for the urethane system which is extremely sensitive to moisture. Other than the low moisture specs it's pretty much lacquer thinner. 2) Your basecoat and basecoat reducer (some call it balancer) typically DO NOT have the same density. A one to one mix by volume is not the same as a one to one mix by weight. 3) Every single manufacturer of paint that I know of INSISTS that the work surface be at least at 60F prior to the application of clear as below this temperature the polymerization reaction between the isocyanate (activator) to the resin in the clear will not take place and the required cross-linking will not occur. The clear may dry but it's performance will be way below acceptable.
Awesome stuff! Thanks for the comments. I realize the two are similar....I usually use a prep sol for cleaning before painting, but you are right. When I mix straight colors I do it by weight to make it easier, but yes you are right, the densities are different. For high solids like epoxies and metallic paints I mix by volume. What I did not show in the video was just before painting I pulled the part out of the shop where it was 70 degrees. Then after painting I put it back in to warm up. Again you are 100% correct that temperature is critical when painting. Thank you for sharing these crucial points with us.
SATAMAN Schmidt absolutely right also what if thst was raw plastic, is thst sealer also a adhesion promoter?? Nor to mention ur lucky the reducer did not wipe the primer off the bumper!!
Pete nice video. I'm going to do my '80 MGB soon and much has changed since I painted a car back in the mid 80's. Good to know the newer materials are easier to use. I'm all for easy. I just wanted to offer a small tip, if you take a small punch and punch holes in the recessed lip of your paint cans, you'll find it pours much easier with better control, plus the paint left in the recess will drain back into the can, making resealing it easier also.
+Mike Robinson That's awesome, thanks for sharing. I try to buy just the right amount so I don't have a bunch of cans laying around. Good luck with your car
U know what u really helpful other guys they said they are tell u how to paint. But they dont tell u everything. . u are very explicit on what steps step by step thank u for sharing this knowledge !!!
Pete,,awsome video..You should try using a (white sealer) for the solid yellow base coat""s,it covers way faster than that gray sealer..For yellow 3-4 coats with white sealer..With the gray sealer 5-9 coats of base coat..Thanks for the great video like to see more on auto paint..
"Maybe some kid in your neighborhood had a gram scale you can borrow" lol. I love the channel and your videos. I am currently taking classes at community college for my associates in automotive, so I love your videos.
A very clear and useful video - many thanks! By the way, I haven't painted much since the 1980s and used to use cellulose paint: very forgiving material and easy to use. Lately I've had a few painting jobs to do and I find the modern acrylics similar but they are very prone to problems related to temperature, spray pattern and air pressure. I now have a test board and probably spend more time adjusting the gun than spraying the part!
I agree. I started painting with lacquers and Dupont Centari. The new water borne bases and clears are space age compared to those. Once you get to setting up the gun and spraying in different conditions it works much better.
Good tips overall, but really can relate to the "time and patience" comments, especially today. Mucked something up because I got into too big of a hurry between coats of primer/sealer. An extra amount of time later for sanding and re-coating, and I'm back on track.
second tip. if you feel you must check if it's dry or not, you can always check nonvisible overspray areas. note that these areas will have a thinner paint layer, so if they've got a mild tack, the rest is still extremely wet, but if they're bone dry, you're probably close. third tip. just because the surface is dry, doesn't mean the paint underneath has a good cure on it. I've personally pulled the oh it feels dry, and you crack the top layer and leave big fingerprints in it.
Hey Pete, just wanna say thanks for your video giving more insight and demonstration for those who are looking to start or improve their painting skills. it have been very helpful
Great video! I have just one question.... Since the weight/density of the liquids being mixed can vary greatly, how is it you feel it is more accurate to use weight? With a 20% weight differential of the two liquids, this will cause a huge swing in the volume ratio.
I use weight for materials close in specific gravity. For epoxies and other high solids materials I use volume based on the manufacturers recommendations
Well done you explained that so well I paint and to tell you the truth I was waiting for you to say something wrong. And you did not you nailed it so well. Good Job so everybody out there this guy knows what he is talking about...
Nason basecoat is 2:1 mix by volume (tech sheet also calls for activator and doesn't say it's optional). If you mix it by weight the ratio is not the same as the volume mix ratio. The color and the reducer have different densities.
Thanks Pete, that was really great. I do a lot of car repairs but the paint thing is a mystery to me. It makes seeing how you do this all the more interesting.
Pete's Garage picked up a cheap harbor freight gun. I believe it’s 1.4 tip. Maybe just use more thinner? Also can I use regular store primer and thin that out also?
I'm a Filipino and I love the tips u have. It's my first time to paint and I've Ben searching in the internet but your the one catch my attention :) love it :) thanks love it :)
Hi from Brooklyn, NY. Hey Pete; great tutorial video. It would be greater if you would show more of the items needed in order to perform the paint job. But I still liked the video even though I had to go forward and backwards in order to get the name of the material you used.
Thanks Pete. How are Eastwood products and what about compressor and airflow and CFM? I know me and all my questions. Like I’ve said in the past I’m a retired aircraft mechanic and trying to stay busy and learn everything I can just for my own enjoyment and pleasure. Your videos are great. I know this is an older video and I’ll look up a more recent one but still the info is very helpful. Thanks for sharing Artie 😊
The Nason spot and high solids clears are a great product . I use on average of 5 gallons of each every week just stay away from the Nason multi panel / overall clear after a while it dies back. Im fortunate enough to have a Nason and Dupont mixing systems and in my case being off even a gram can be a very costly error to make.plus it makes you feel good knowing it is being done right so i know where your coming from
+Jonathan Pedigo That is so cool....thanks for sharing with us. Understanding paint is so important. It is mixed by weight when formulated and it has to be exact. I've had good luck with the Nason products. What is your opinion on the high end Dupont clears?
Today's Nason clears used to be the Dupont's high end clears until Dupont came up with a new formula. Knowing that I haven't sprayed to much of the new Dupont clears. I spray with a Devilbiss Tekna prolite with a 1.3 tip, 2 coats followed by a flow coat. Comes out looking like glass and it doesn't matter if I'm spraying Nason ,Dupont or House of Kolor. I stick with the Nason clear.
You didn't mention utilizing a plasticizer. Is it needed for all three coatings, i.e. sealer, base and clear coats? Thanks for your time in sharing your knowledge! Dave
+letlive Hey Dave. Plasticizer is expensive and it really only benefits the job when you have large plastic parts that will see a lot of flexing. I have never had a problem not using it.
it is possible to touch the prepped surface and not leave prints, but your hands have to be essentially sterile. if you must touch your work (for transport, to rotate, et cetera) you can either glove up with latex or methanol/spirit your hands and blow them dry.
iam goin back here soon into painting cars again soon, i use to use centari single stage products, and now they tell me its nason system now days. so its ok. anyways outstanding gloss on the solid yellow bumper. I learned with dupont products but i know there tons of other paint makers out there. Good video. and i also liked the one on spot repair that was great. see ya.
Tried my first shot at spray painting a primer on body panels. I think it will need a couple of coats to get a good primer finish,seemed a bit light and thin. So ill use your patients tip. Think that's going to be my best way to get a good result.
Ive been using Dupont Final Clean 3901s as opposed to the reducer to prep the surface for paint. Works well, it is also a safe solvent for use with plastics like this bumper cover.
Hey Pete, I love your videos. What do you think about using a homemade paintbooth (like plastic covering and a fan) vs. using an actual booth? Can you achieve the same great results with both? Also what equipment do you suggest someone (me) start with if I want to get into paint and body work?
+ImElkay This is a very common question. I have sprayed in million dollar spray booths and still have had crap fall on the paint. I have painted outside, in huge warehouses, and small garages. I can tell you this, if you set up a clean garage with good airflow and you will get professional results. i do it all the time.
I just recently did my first paint job on my little project car, a 1993 mustang gt. (Profile pic) I used all nason products. When mixing up my basecoat I used the paint, reducer, and also an activator. This is what it said on the paint label, I'm sure I have the numbers around somewhere. I noticed that you just used the color and reducer, no activator. Is it unnecessary and you just chose not to use it? Great videos by the way. Thanks.
sir can u make a video about common mistakes in painting & how to cure them or cheats them without starting all over again?. newbies making lot of mistakes in process but always have a lil clue how to fix it. like base coat cracks, uneven revealing when base coating, foggy clearcoats etc.. u know better for sure. thx in adv. sorry for my bad english
On bare plastic after sanding with scotch Brite pad , clean it, then wipe with alcohol based cleaner then let it flash. . Then spray adhesion promoter on it then use a sealer on bumper then base coat clear.
Thanks for the video Pete. I was reading the come t on the guy with the homemade paint Booth. As I was reading your answer, and very intrested, I hit the more button. Some kind of way it said comment reported. This was strictly an accident. Please forgive me. I really like your channel.
Is there no such thing as flex additives anymore? I just had a local shop paint for me an extremely flexible rear window visor and small truck lip spoiler and when I picked it up they folded it in half and nothing happened to the paint at all! They said they used a flex additive but, so far I have not seen anyone on RU-vid say anything about flex additives during their painting demo's? I got charged $250 for both and can't afford to keep paying that price to paint my, soon to be installed, lip kit and fix some minor blemishes. So, I'd really like to learn to do this myself in my garage. I'm very meticulous, detailed and learn to do things myself pretty well so, I think I can do this well with a little practice. I used to be a detailer so, I know quite a bit about paint just not how to paint! Thanks.
+Lobo Jr There is a flex additive. It is expensive. If you plan on bending the part allot I would use it. I paint plastic bumpers all the time without and have no problems. Just keep the coats very thin
thank you for the video Mr. Pete do you recommend the sealer before hi-build or after. i've been told epoxy then hi-build im a total rookie....just curious thank you again
Pete, I have a 1993 300zx that has two paint jobs. Factory and a not so great other paint job. For many months I have watched many hours of video's on preparation. The one question I keep coming back to is: Do I soda blast, use paint remover, or just sand the coats of paint off? I've looking into buying a soda blaster, and recently watched a video on stripping the paint, and watched many on sanding. Not sure which to take. Can you help a sista out?
+Mina Castellano If you soda blast the interior will be packed with soda. Chemical stripping is slow, but works best. You can take off the hood, fenders, doors, deck lid and have them blasted and do the body with chemical stripping. It just takes time.
Pete, Great Vid... I'm an old guy who's going to need something to keep me busy when I retire and fixing up cars is something I'd like to do. Paint guns confuse me. Do you have a vidio (or could you make one) explaining guns, i.e. types, brands, tip sizes, etc. Is a Harbor Freight good enough? A lot of people talk about this but never really explain it. Thanks again. Joe
Thanks.. it was very infomrative. i have seen video who suggest wet sanding through 1500 sandpaper after clear coat. what is your exert opinion.? should we done on metalic car surface and avoid on bumpers.???
Great video and I appreciate the info for someone that knows very little about painting. I hope this question isn't a complete waste of time, but is that just water on the floor or something else? I'm gonna spray in my garage and don't want to put plastic on the floor or scrub paint off. I figured the water was mostly to keep dust from flying around but wasn't sure if water alone would keep paint from sticking since my floor is unfinished and would soak up water quick.
The water on the floor is for 2 reasons, the main reason is to keep dust from coming up off the floor, and the second it to keep the overspray from sticking. You don't want puddles, just damp.
Haha great!!! What size tip would you suggest for flake? And for pearls. I know there's different size flake and particle pearl. Just a basic rule of thumb or a general size. Thanks!!!
Pete, this may be off topic. Sorry for that, but what was that can you used to blend in the clear coat when you done that bumper repair. It melts the new clear coat in with the old. It done such a good job you didn't even have to buff it out. I had it wrote down, but I lost it. and I can't find the video on it. Thanks a million....
Thanks for the tips. After painting what is the curing process. Does it need a separate heating booth. What ahold be the temeperature setting. Please advise on this
I would wash it with soap and water, let it dry then wipe it down with wax and grease remover then as always, wipe down with a tack cloth right before painting the panel or piece. And always spray in an enclosed area free of dust and dirt.
buddy I like your process ... you got that clear figured out that looked great laided good and flat awesome job ... you can really tell you just woke up that morning went to harbor feight and bought a spray gun to make this video hahaha hahah jk 9 coats of color wowie woo wow
Hi m8 .....you don't use flex additive ??....helps to stop painting cracking on flexible parts like bumpers .....I'm using acrylic primer and top coat .....they say if applied correctly ....I don't need clear coat ???.... Whats your thoughts on this .....first time painter
Excellent question. If you apply the base and clear thin enough and you do not have to significantly bend the parts to install them, flex additive is not needed. If you install the part, then paint it, the addictive id definitely not needed. I have never had a problem. It's kind of a money grab with little benefit.
Amazing job , do you have to have a humungous compressor to run a paint gun? and again I really appreciate all the video's , because I started working on cars in the early 80's and information back then was really hard to come by.
Great video Thank you very much, I have question what is the best air pressure required for base and clear coat? And perfect temperature in the painting time?
It all depends on how much you are going to use it. The more expensive the gun the better the design of the parts. This becomes obvious when you take it apart to clean it. A Harbor Freight gun will work....I would just not want to use it on a daily basis. Paints with heavy metallic can not be strained.
Mixing paint.As stated on the cup 4.2.1. What does it mean.4 parts of paint, 2 parts thinner and 1 part of what.You showed mixing equal amounts of paint and thinner (205 + 205 ).What is reducer and what is thinner.Which one to be used and at what proportions.Clear coat -what do you use, hardener or thinner.
+Amendra Prakash I showed mixing 50/50 paint and reducer. Clear is 4 parts clear to 1 part hardener. If it's like 4.2.1 the last number is always reducer or thinner
Can pearl be used with Matt clear or it has to be added only in base coat and can clear Gloss be mixed with clear Matt for satin finish or sheen for better durability and better looks? Here in India clear base is not available so is it possible to add a colored base and then mix the pearl in clear gloss for second coat and then add the third coat of matt and gloss mix for the sheen? Really looking forward for that pearl effect in satin or sheen finish...
The pearl is laid down with the color under the clear. You can mix just like you said, but in order to get a satin finish you usually use gloss with a dulling agent. You can experiment and see if you can get the right ratio to get the sheen you are looking for.
hey pete, i've got a 1980 k5 blazer that needs a paint job, we are planning on taking it somewhere like an earl scheib for paint, any thoughts on this? also it has some rust, i think it's just surface rust, but what would you recommend doing to get this truck ready for paint? i have very limited experience working on cars and do not want to screw this up.
nice video sir.. we are assisting one entrep here in Daet, Camarines Norte, Philippines who is into car painting this could be of great help. thank you.
why nason products ? I've used there stuff don't like it you need to spray more paint and the finish doesn't always come out good. ? do you use diamont paints ?
Whenever i get runs i just use masking tape to take off the run carefully then i just give it a wet coat i like to reduce my paint so if flows a little thsf ussually takes care of some runs or sags
One last question if I was to sand down the primer on my car to the metal do some body work can I leave it like that in the garage or do I need to put or spray something over it why I do body work or is it better just to do the one part at a time and then primer it
