Nice instructive video. I am much less of an expert and even less with a meter in my hands. Looks like you narrowed the problem down to something on the board at which point I would have spent the $50 for a new board rather than $20 plus extra time and effort to see if I could fix the old one. Of course, if it is important for you to know exactly what component went bad then fine. If you're wrong, then you are out on the original $20 experiment + $50 new board + extra time and effort. But hey, the price of education and\or satisfaction of knowing is sometimes worth it.
Agreed. I just ended up ordering & putting a new inverter board in - here's the repair: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FL7KgVC6pmk.html Like you, and after contemplating the options, I simply couldn't be bothered with tossing components at it for the small "potential" savings and extra time involved.
Hi there, I really need some help please So my Panasonic inverter microwave oven blows the line fuse as soon as i press the start button regardless on what setting I run the microwave ( ie oven,grill,microwave) I have checked the door interlocks, fan ,magnetron and all seem OK any ideas on what I should be looking at. Any guidance would be appreciated
Thanks for the detailed post John. Tried to find your vendor TV-ECO-PARTS since I am in Canada as well, but couldn't find him. Had to use someone else. Fingers crossed the repair works. Like you I am loathe to buy a new microwave and begin a new install. (Also keep the old microwave out of a landfill.)
Hope it works out for you too. I just googled "TV Eco Parts" an their ebay store came up as the first search result. Here's the link to their ebay store if you ever need it for future repair parts: www.ebay.ca/str/tvecoparts
very informative video. So did a new inverter board fix it? I have the same issue. --> blowing the house breaker when I turn on the magnetron when RL1 activates. Monitor door switch seems okay. Everything else works. I suspect a shorted IGBT.
Thanks John for the video. I have disassembled my microwave and the inside looks just like this but I can't locate the fuse. Could some fuses look anything other than what you have showed in the video?
Thanks for the video John. I was using the microwave and there was a burning/smokey smell. I shut it off and tested again fuse blew. Any suggestions? Will check megnetron but the smell seems to be coming from some copper coils connected to power code. Any advice?
My sony mhc system having T10 A fuse and its blown so i used normal glass 10 A fuse but its immediately blown, so is it my circuit already damaged? Because my fuse immesiately blown?
Dear, is it possible to convert the microwave to work on the normal converter instead of the inverter? I mean, is it possible to dispense with this inverter card and return to the old or usual system? Thank you
The caps on the inverter board checked out fine - none were shorted... 🤔 The Inverter had that shorted rectifier as shown. Replaced the inverter and it has been working great since: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FL7KgVC6pmk.html
20A sand filled, fast blow fuses are the conventional norm for most built in microwaves. Built ins generally do use more power over a counter top as they have an exhaust fan and lighting on top of the 1100W microwave power consumption. A 15A fuse would likely be enough in a bind (1100W / 120V = 9.2A) + at least another one or two amps bringing the total close to the sustained 80% (12A) rating a 15A residential line it rated at. 20A is the standard in these over the counter units, likely to cover the momentary current surge that occurs if the microwave was running at 100%, lights at 100% and then fans are turned on at 100% which would most likely peak over 12A and maybe even reach over 15A for a fraction of second. A 15A fast blow fuse would blow before a 15A breaker would trip and it's much easier to reset the breaker than replace the internal fuse.
