Thank you ! Thank you ! Thank you ! For showing this board. HEADS UP . My Board came with M552 S2 with no semicolon . Make sure to add semicolon to M552 S2 and to remove semicolon to M552 S1, if you are having connection problems. Also My board came with the proper screen settings. NOTE: Make sure you are using RepRap gcode flavor and not MARLIN or the board won't print properly . Super slow movements. One last thing the Bed trimester and Extruder thermistor are labeled wrong on the board use the wiring diagram . This board is awesome and will make your printer silky smooth.
I would say this is pretty big because the implementation of the RepRapFirmware and the DWC. Being able to adjust your printer using a browser is the best feature.
This looks like the ultimate board for my Ender 3pro. One that I should be happy with a long time. You did say a model with auto bed would be coming out? GREAT WORK THANK YOU
I have been loving mine. It works great on my Delta. It is a great drop in replacement for Ender3, but also great for any single extruder printer where 2209 fit the motor requirements. And a really competitive price.
And again a great video from President and CEO 😉 I don't think that the heatsinks will help a lot as the TMC drivers heat up at the bottom. With a thick pcb they can distribute the TMC heat to the pcb layers. As mentioned before the support isn't there where it should be, really hope they will improve.
It's actually an odd size, like a 4.3", here it is, but you might have to adjust it. drive.google.com/file/d/1DR6cPWskwNwOwXFhH_dBF2_ok1q12jU3/view?usp=sharing
Hi there. Thanks for a great video. I was wondering if it is possible to upgrade the Kinetica's to the Maestro's the latest 3.11 firmware or are you limited to some older version of RRF that is specific to the Kinetica? Thanks!
As of right now, you have to use an older version. They are working to get it added as a branch so the RRF upgrades going forward will include the G2C board.
I have problem connecting my wifi on this board, I followed your instructions but get the error message "WiFi reported error: no known networks found" Have tried to find a solution but I cant find anything, do yo have any suggestions?
Great video as always. You noted that it was a custom version of RRF from Panucatt. Is this board able to upgraded typically to the latest stable release i.e. 2.05 or 3.1.1 or is it limited to the Panucatt version?
Was the version of Edge you used the new Edge, which is chromium based, or the old Edge? I don’t know why, but it’s nice to see there’s something Chrome can’t handle.
Thanks Chris, yet another good one, any plans for showing how to setup ABL, and using it, including babystepping and saving settings afterwards (like M500)?
@@ChrisRiley Yeah, I am fiddeling a bit with my Troodon at the moment (Duet), no need to fiddle actually, since it works realy well. In fact I have no issues at all. But I struggle a bit navigating and understanding babysteps and such. Got to say I like reprap more and more, and the probability for converting a bunch of printer to this platform increase day by day :)
By understanding, I am unsure if adjustments is saved to config or not, got to look a bit closer to values in the files before and after touching (y) It should be possible according to one post I found, but it is rather old forum post, and I am a bit unsure if the definition described in that old post is valid, I guess it has progressed a few steps since that version it refers to where valid. Probably obsolete information.
Putting in a SD card, booting, will update the content on that card and give a 100% valid an complete backup of the current running system? Did I get that right?
In fact, I am installing Duet now on a Duet clone board (shame on me) - to use on my SideWinder X1, will do the same for my Predator (2 boards is laying around)
@@ChrisRiley I have silentboard, skr1.3, 1.1pro, 1.4 turbo, ezboard, and now thinking about this board, and that even before starting to modify my printer (ender5plus as above), meanwhile, my prusa mk3 is just pushing plastic like an hero.
Very nice. Also looks like quite a nice upgrade board for Anycubic printers or maybe even the MK3. However, the heatbed-connection does seems a bit questionable to me. The information Panucatt gives through their website is quite limited. What amount of current is the heatbed connection rated for?
Thanks for the review! I was looking for a replacement motherboard. Seems to me that the SKR series is a much better value even considering all the add-on's. Will you be reviewing the new SKR Mini E3 v2.0 soon? Thank you again!
Have you fitted a BLTouch to this board? If so how well (or not) is it working? I am having a huge headache getting a BLTouch 3.1 to work reliably with my SKR mini E3 v1.2 board. Probing frequently stalls with a "probing error" requiring the printer to be power cycled. Gonna get this Panucatt board anyways, because the WiFi integration looks really slick and I like the idea of not having to compile and flash firmware every time I want to tweak something. But I'm wondering if BLTouch would work better (or worse) with this board than with my SKR.
@@ChrisRiley It is very close to being the same. I also have one of these boards and followed the information provided at duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37 in the upgrades section. If you are using a BLtouch 3.0 or above and have not changed it to 5 v operation it is pretty straightforward to do.
Great INFO. I just installed the Panucatt G2-C into my Ender 5 Pro. I saw a preview video of yours and the mention of NO LCD screen display on first turn on. I can't find that video where you mention what to do if that happens. Could anyone help me out on that, please.?
I'm assuming you downloaded and installed the files on a SD card. Go into the sys directory on the sd card and using a text editor open config.g. Scroll to the bottom and uncomment M918 P1 E4 ; Enable Graphic Display, E-4 for RRD LCD and E4 for CR10 LCD
@@kenwetz9545 Thanks for the information. yes, I downloaded the SDCard.Stock files to card, booted with card in machine. Screen came to life. But since I think the information is set to Ender 3, it HOMES to wrong place and keeps trying Front Right location.
@@stevenclark2894 Steven here is the section of the Duet3d site that describes what you are asking for. duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M569_Set_motor_driver_direction_enable_polarity_and_step_pulse_timing I'm slowly learning the new stuff and that site has proved quite useful.
@@kenwetz9545 I can't thank you enough for taking the time to reply. This is my first attempt at modifying and upgrading any of my printers. I was mostly happy with stock, but kept wondering how it would be to venture beyond the vanilla. Learning that I need to learn a lot more. I mainly use my Ender 3, and an Anet A8 Plus. Have a Zonestar Z9SM3, triple extruder, took me a while to assemble, and haven't even turned it on yet. I just want to get my Ender 5 Pro up and running with this Panucatt board.
I guess this should be good for the Ender5 plus also?, I see it have Z1 and Z2 output so it can drive both Z axis? I wonder, is the footprint on the Ender3 and 5+ boards the same?
@@ChrisRiley I have the Th3d ezboard also, I think that should have same footprint as the 2.2 board in the ender5, going to swap that in a couple of days. (before I order this.. )
Hello Mr. Chris I hope you give me five minutes of your time and give me an answer because I am totally lost and I am sure that the answer will be from you.. I have a DIY printer which is working fine and I am using Arduino Mega with ramp1.4 shield with a4899 as a stepper motor driver and I want to upgrade the complete electronic set.. I noticed that the ( SKR ) board is the most common and most requested, and I relied on tutorials to implement the replacement, but I no longer know which form I should choose or which version, so that it has explanations on your channel specifically. I really like your lessons. and most importantly, I got lost more and more when I arrived to choose the controllers there are a lot of choices with huge price differences for sure there is a good reasons for that but i don’t know it , so i come to you hoping you help me to decide.. Which version of SKR board and which motor driver should i purchase… I’m using my printer for personal and simple usage( till now ) but i want to get in commercial market hoping make some profits especially after increasing the demand for 3D products in my country, even if at a slight level now Sorry for the prolonged and I hope you will help me when you have time to answer and thank you very much in advance.
@Chris Riley would be cool to see this board on a Tronxy X5sa pro. the Pro is so much better then the standard X5SA. the X5SA Pro is alot faster then my Prusa mk3. the pro has no issues printing at 120mm/sec upto 150mm/sec also the chitu board now works on Marlin with the touch screen. I know you didnt have much luck on your older Tronxy X5sa. but the pro version I think is one of the best deals out there for the size & money a few upgrades & its a nice printer.
@@ChrisRiley they changed alot from the other 2 versions, the X5S & X5SA I would never buy, But the X5SA PRO is well worth trying again, 1/2 the printer was redesigned. I did add corner brackets & some 90 degree outer brackets, but the tmc2224 drivers are very nice also. the metal wheels & linear rods setup they made for the PRO version makes the Difference! smooth like butter, so smooth.
