Parker Boats - Crooked Pilot House Boat Another Manufacture Defect 

Pull the rub rail, replace the seal, do it right. The way you have done it runs the risk of trapping water and making the issue worse. Good DIY video.

If only the quality issues were better, you would have been the best salesperson that Parker ever had. Thanks Captain for keeping us informed!

I saw one of the other videos about the side window frames filling with water and leaking inside. Possible fix for that would be drilling some drain holes or slots on the outside of the window frame so the water has somewhere to drain. Great channel! I enjoy watching the storm videos.

Great job, Captain. Good finds and solutions. You are right about Florida heat, I just got back from Naples about an hour ago. The heat and humidity were tough on me.

My favorite Captain and my favorite boat, and thank you for all the sprinter information!

Great advice! Thanks for sharing! 😎👍

I hate that you’ve had issues with this boat, Cap. I think it’s a beautiful boat, and probably well constructed overall, but the little things can drive you nuts. Well, I guess water intrusion isn’t a “little thing”, but sometimes you just gotta be your own engineer. You seem to be good at that.

tú te imaginas si tú tuvieras la alfombra pegada al barco y le empieza entrar toda esa agua la peste que coge a humedad y que coge moho increíble capitan las cosas que hacen estas compañías baratas

I have a 2023 2320. Cap was not sealed. Front hatch was not sealed. All roof penatrations were leaking. All fixed now. Still love the boat.

Another great informative video. Thanks Capt

I’m glad you took the time to do a video on preventive maintenance to your boat… thank you

I think it's just your little war between you and Parker boats in regards to the unlevel floor.

I wish all boat owners took as much care with maintenance as you cap!

I have the same issue with my 2020 Beneteau Antares 7, I was wondering where the small amount of water in my cabin was coming from. I bet its the same issue. Will look at my rub rail this weekend. Thanks for sharing!

Wow cap! You know, we went to the Palm beach boat show and Parker had a boat there. If you watch the video, you can see that the hatch in the cabin above the berth was leaking! 🤦🏻 so it seems it’s still an ongoing issue for them! 🤙

I've never really heard too many good things about Parker Boats. They look nice, but I guess that's about it.

Captain, is the top of the rail sealed? You wouldn’t want water to get in from there and now it can’t drain out the bottom. Then the screws and bolts never dry. Maybe leave a couple drain holes. I had to do that with my leaky windows. Good luck!

No comments, additions, or corrections. I'm just feeding the algorithm monsters with a tapping of the thumbs up 👍 button.

These boats are over 100k new. There are no excuses for issues like these. Time to move onto a Steiger Craft.

esas ventanas de los barcos deberían de hacerla que abran hacia fuera no que de adentro abran hacia adentro para eliminar la entrada de agua esos son malos diseños

Hey captain, I like what you did. May I suggest, come winter, you pull the rub rail completely off, and seal the joint, then reinstall the rub rail. I think that would be 100%

Very nice work cap.

Great Job. I'm surprised Parker didn't seal that better, it's not a cheap boat by any means.

It's a shame that the manufacturer would allow those flaws to leave the factory. Nice job, calm seas Capt.

Great job on the caulking. I need to do that same thing on my 24 year old boat at the rubrail. Why 4200 over 5200?

RUST?! How are they not using 316SS hardware?! WOW> My Arima Sea Legend has a lot of sealant up under the rub rail where your Parker is leaking. I really wanted a Parker, but it seems i wound up with the better choice, despite only having a curtain and not a bulkhead.

I recommend using isopropyl alcohol. Regular alcohol has oils in it that can affect adhesion.

You likely use all our most of the 4200 tube but if you didn't and want to perseve it for future use, use a vaccum food sealer to seal the tube in and then keep it in your freezer. Will lay indefinitely.

My 2003 had the same issue. Fixed with $10 of silicone and it was done.

Thank Cap. Always make sure… Props Clear! I hope they see this video, and they should take into consideration all your knowledge of that particular vessel to make better changes for new editions. You would help them a lot.

Buenas noches Capi desde Barcelona desgraciadamente este problema se da casi en todas las marcas en mi caso Merry Fissher 655 y de un amigo Ocquecteau 8,30 es un tema pendiente de soluccion de algunos astilleros,saludos espero que llegue el buen tiempo para ver mas videos tuyos.Un abrazo.

is almost like local indonesia fiberboat .is always rubber ring or seal,,can find local from sulawesi and my own was made from Bali island,,is beach boat builder. keep smiliing on weak become plus and make channel famous. and you always allowed us sat on your boat and cheers all day..

Always awesome cap.

Hi Capt.... It's a shame you, or anyone else has to deal with these kind of leaks. So far I have been lucky with our Parker; no window leaks, and no gunnel-seam leaks. But, I still deal with the leak from the windlass-rode-feed hole, into the anchor locker, running water through the bilge to the stern.... It's a great tip you gave to use the butyl sealant around the windows, and the 4200 at the gunnel seam.... Our last boat had 3 large Bomar hatches, and 19 Gebo windows. (Half were fixed/non opening). We had the boat for 28 years, but after 24 years, 4 of the windows started leaking. I completely removed all of the windows and hatches, and started over; Prepping the openings, grinding, sanding and scraping away what was left of the old sealants. When I re-installed the windows, I used a similar butyl sealant like you used. It totally sealed the aluminum frames to the hull fiberglass; no leaks.... Thank you for another informative video!

Generally there is adhesive sealant applied before they join the top cap or liner/cap to the hull. Appears they missed it on your boat. I'm guessing this was a pandemic constructed boat as standards went into the toilet during that period. What you should do is remove the rub rail, apply sealant as best you can into the joint and then replace the rub rail. Assuming you still have any warranty period and haven't pissed off the dealership, ask them to fix it.

I was delivering a CT54 sailing vessel from HA to CA, and the deck to hull joint snapped almost completely around the whole boat. Worst storm I had ever been in, biggest waves too. Very wet and scary ride for the last four days. Where the two are joined together, which is with most boats, it cannot be seen without pulling many things off, water is seen leaking in, or until complete failure. Great informative video, Capt. Thanks for making this vid and telling others! Stay safe!

For the cost of these you can get an aluminum boat with every electronic you want at 23-25 foot. I'm working with gospelboats for one.

Hey there Skipper, what you have done is a good "For now" fix but what I think you should do at the end of the season is take the fender rubber right off and replace all the through screws for marine grade stainless steel ones, these should`nt be rusting, and bearing in mind that you use your boat and not sit and look at it, you should fibreglass the two mouldings together, inside and out if you can, especially in the house. Thats what I would do anyway,, its a permanent fix. Great video again Capt, be good and look forward to the next one.

What's the warranty on the hull? often manufacturers have at least a 10 yr warranty on the hull.

Parker seem to have no pride in their work and craftsmanship what a lemon!

To do it right you need to pull the rubber rail and all the hardware off so you can see the hull and cap silicon all around were the two meet then make sure to go back with Marine grade stainless steel hardware that is silicone in the place then install the rubber rail guaranteed no more leaks.

Like and share.

Capt. Please consider sealing the top of the rub rail also. I had a similar issue and after sealing the lower rail it still leaked until I caulked the top rail.

Wow captain that’s very concerning. Imagine the top cap comes loose while you are navigating! Don’t you have hull warranty thru Parker? I would have them evaluate the entire boat . Good luck with that and be safe

Hey captain! Have you taught about getting a new different boat?

Remove the bump strip and all of the bolts. Fibreglass the inside where the hull and deck meets then glass the exterior where the hull and deck meets. Install bump strip then caulk it once more. Job done.

It's just not your Parker, it's all production boats with the deck to hull joint. It's just that 95% don't use their boats as hard as you. Like they're meant to.

Nice vid captain. However I would recommend you remove the rub rail. Treat the screws in there with crc anti rust coating to stop the corrosion. Coating never dries. We used it in Panama all the time with great success. Rub rail screws are those that you are looking at on the chrome trim. Those screws should be long and go into the side to hold rub rail and chrome trim strip in place along the boat. Rub rail easy to uninstall and reinstall. At least you used 4200. 5200 is he** to get off. Once rub rail is off, you can really get to the side there where rub rail mounts with alcohol and clean it up so 4200 adheres well.

We have the same model from Parker and we had the same issue. Our dealer took it apart and sealed it up for us under warranty.

Parker. Get this man a new boat. This is your fault. Make it right.

Hey Capt. I have same model and engine 8 yrs old2016 …keep it at the slip and I’m noticing when it rains I’m getting puddles towards the pilot house not flushing out the back like it should? Was wondering if you notice the same issue……Thanks

I think that will fix it buddy I've got to chase down a few leaks on my boat to I think it's the windows my boat turned 41 this year have a good one buddy don't catch them all

That was fun to watch. I know Parker boats are very good boats and they have a very very good reputation. You are the man I love the video. 🫡😀

While putting 4200/5200 is your best bet, the manufacturer should have joined the deck correctly. The shells should have been coupled together with an industrial epoxy. This is not only for water intrusion, but more importantly strength.

I sure do like Parker boats. I want to buy one down the road when I live closer to the ocean. Thanks Captain

I own the MayCraft version and it comes from the factory caulked behind the rub rail. I’ve offered wondered why and now I know.

Skipp My Grady did the same thing, used the same product never had a problem after, isn't it amazing what salt water does to everything. If you fish salt water your forever beating back the abuse the sea does to your boat

Parker should hire you as their Q/A expert. They obviously have an opening at that position. It's very disappointing to see a reputedly high-quality product at very high prices delivered to customers only to frustrate the owners.

No way anyone should get a Parker boat, poor quality... Thank you for the videos cap!

You should have Mrs captain spray the hull with a hose from the outside while you film from the inside

I have 2320 crooked pilot house, I will need to look for this defect now captain. Thanks for the public service announcements!

Did you ever try to drill drain holes in the outside tracks of the side windows?

They skimped on the stainless. Didn't use 316. Don't jury rigg. Pull the rub rauil off and do it right.

Wow! That boat does not have a warranty? Incredible! Maybe it might time to move up and buy another boat.

It's not the rub rail that's leaking, it's the hull to deck joint. Those are SS screws and while they can show rust weeping they are prob OK. Your using the boat in heavy waves is flexing the hull deck joint causing the leaking. Remove the rub rail, clean and caulk the seam. Also Parker boats are built strong but they are work boats, fit and finish secondary.

The problem is without taking b the rubrail off the salt etc that is under there is trapped and you didn't treat any of it. Eventually they will completely rust. Now will this cause a failure? Doubtful but at some point in a few years it may be. I personally would pull rubrail and replace whatever bolts need it and rust encapsulate the rest and replace rubrail.. very nice boat and of course for me it's easier because I'm retired but keeping the boat long term it would be worth it.

But what about all your rusted bolts Captain. What did manufacturer say to you about possibly replacing the rusted bolts?

That is terrible. Maybe we should start a "go fund me". That way you can buy a 50' Sea Ray, and your favorite fans, can travel to the Bahamas with you. You will also be the designated chef. But we'll have to discuss the Corana beer preference??? 😂😂😂😂

Yup, they're cutting corners AND using cheap materials (stainless steel nuts and bolts).

Hey Capt., if I were you I would remove the rub-rail completely to see what further damage is under there. There could be more corrosion and damage underneath there…especially as this is a safety issue as that is where the cap is connected/bonded to the hull. Hope it all works out. 👍🏼

I paid about the same for a 21 Whaler and its built top notch! (but no cabin)

You might consider pulling the rub rail to see if there's some separation occurring or bolts rusted out.

Hopefully you caught it before it becomes a big problem.

The 4200 is a good band aid fix but really that whole hull to cap/deck king should be glassed together.

Time for a Steiger Cap... that boat has been a headache for you from day one...

My Parker 2120 is a 2013 model. Zero leaks.

To be sure Parker has a good hull warranty. Good luck

hull must have been a reject!!! but they didnt want to lose money , so they sold you thinking or not knowing that you were such a meticulous boat owner and user.... love ur boat and ur adventures..

That rub rail fix is not a good fix. Water can come in on the top of the rub rail. It will hold water and rust the bolts more and likely enter the boat. The rub rail needs to come off, and the hull joint needs to be caulked.

That sealant is going to shrink and crack. It will not last. You need to remove that strip completely and seal it right. Additionally since you can access that seam so easily on the inside, i would seal the crap out of that too. Fix it once. Good luck captain!.

flex seal- Phil Swift

This is not the proper fix to your issues. You need to remove that rub rail and clean with acetone in between the cap and Hull and then seal with 4200! The rub rail goes back on using 4200 on screw holes as well but I don’t use any thing to seal rub rail! As long as you seal cap to hull and all the screws water will not penetrate.

That's called a rub rail, not a bumper .

Boston Whaler Conquest is their version of the pilot house they're pricey but a great boat. Best of luck to you

Cap'n, your next boat should be a STEIGERCRAFT pilothouse! It is exactly the same style as yours, but it comes with a LIFETIME hull warranty. 😉

You need to update your branding: Crooked Leaky Pilot House

Parker never known for good boats.

which mean Parker is made cheaper than what they made it sound to be or the QC person is doing a great job. That section to the bottom hull and top side section should have been sealed with silicone when both were joined.

Did you call Parker? Did you talk to the dealer?

Rust never sleeps😮

Cap'n, I don't think you understand how your hull-deck joint is assembled. To picture how your hull-deck joint was made, imagine an old style shoe box: The lid's top folds down on all 4 sides and fits over the top edge of the box. That's basically what you have there. The black vinyl trim (and half oval stainless strip on top of it) are to serve as a lightweight rub rail and cosmetic finish. The hull-deck joint seal does not come from the vinyl trim; that lies outside the hull-deck joint. Instead, it appears the choice of the builder was to place a thick mastic material (perhaps butyl tape) all around the top outside edge of the 'box' (the hull), then place the deck mold over the hull so the edge of the deck mold overlaps the top of the hull mold by an inch or more. The two are then fastened together by fasteners every so many inches, drawing the deck mold's edge and top edge of the hull together. This (is supposed to) squeeze the two molds together and form a tight seal thanks to the tape. This method eventually leads to what is called 'panting' in a seaway, just like a dog pants when it's hot, as the hull flexes from wave impacts and opens up little sections of the joint between the fasteners.. Cover that joint up with vinyl strips and stainless strips and this can't be seen. Based on what you are showing us, I'd say the root cause of your problem is the inexpensive method for attaching the hull to the deck, made worse by what appears to be a fastener pattern that doesn't have them close enough together. (Your video makes it look like the fasteners were placed every 10" or so, tho' it's hard to tell). Beyond that, the mastic material may have originally been undersized and/or not up to the task that was asked of it, and it is now aged and not as resilient. (I'll bet you didn't have this problem when you first used the boat). Unfortunately, if I'm correct about the hull-deck joint being used, your sealant application won't help as you can't really get the sealant into the hull-deck joint. One last point: It is possible to use this hull-deck joint method successfully. You marry the two molds together, just like the shoe box, and then apply multiple strips of fiberglass & resin over the joint to make the hull & deck molds into one completed monocoque structure. It's a big job to do this now....but if you only do it in the cabin area of the hull, where you mostly have good access, perhaps it's worth considering. I suggest you invite a marine surveyor over to have a look. He/she will know immediately if my description of the joint and its consequences are on the right track.

That rub rail material will shrink over time-may have been an issue even if Parker did caulk it from the factory. The other thing is-The carpet you removed years ago would have soaked up the water as it was coming in and you would’ve only seen stains on it. I’m sure every Parker pilot house has the same issue and has water stains on the carpet that lines the cabin walls. A lot of other comments here suggested removing and replacing the through bolts with better quality stainless fasteners. With that you would be removing the rub rail to get to them-so you can also replace the black gasket material as well.What you did here will certainly hold up for a while but overhauling the whole thing is the right way to fix it. May be time to consider a “Level Pilot house”--Boston Whaler Conquest 345-- it’s only about $850,000

I’ve got a 27 foot pilot house for sale. Move away from Parker twin outboards more gas more range!

2:07 speaking, pause, oops- rusty noises 😂

Mine came sealed with urethane sealer in 05. Buy some black 4200

I use to work for Regal Boats between 1993-2003 and work on the assembly line doing nail and rail and back them after we seat the deck on top of the hall we use to seal all around with marine caulking and after we install the rub rail and insert we also caulking the insert all around to avoid leaks between the haul and the deck.

Urs was also crooked

#Parkerboats the most important Captain in company history! 📢📢 Full steam ahead ⚓

saludos capitan esas compañías están supuestos a echarle el pegamento marino uno dice Silicon pero eso es un pegamento marino cuando te ponen la tapa de arriba del bote cuando te ponen cada tornillo están supuestos a echarte Silicon también el pegamento marino y no lo hacen por eso es que te está entrando agua los materiales que están usando hoy en día ninguno sirven para nada los acero inoxidable no sirven tú coges un imán y se lo pones a los tornillos y los tornillos pegan eso no es acero inoxidable marino una aleación bien barata que hacen con todo esos tornillos toda esas compañía pierden reputación por estas mismas cosas malas que hacen

It’s a shame you pay top dollar for a product and you use it for what it’s made to be used for. Then you notice it starts slowly falling apart. The problem is nobody holds these manufacturers accountable. And nobody wants to deal with the stress of bringing it back to the dealer so you end up fixing everything yourself.