This is a brilliant explanation that goes into all the little details. You should note that the top ring end gap should be opposite the spark plug location.
Absolutely loving this, so relaxing to watch and it’s so refreshing to see someone reusing things with a bit of wear, when people replace everything it takes so much away from the bike. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos 🙏
This has become my favourite channel now. I just love the clear, concise way that tasks are tackled in bite-size chunks without any condescension. Thank you.
Thoroughly enjoyable channel, extremely informative and interesting. Good camera work too, can see what you're doing and hear what you're saying!!! There's no "filler", no "waffle", no gaudy intro's etc just straight down to business. Technical stuff is clearly explained and I'm sure would be easy to follow if I was working on the same bike. Well done folks, this is what youtube should be like for this sort of topic!
Hi and thanks for posting... I've done a few rebuilds myself and in some cases I find fitting the pistons / rings into the barrels (not connected to the con-rods) and then aligning the piston pins. Making sure you you fit the inside cir-clip to the inside of the piston so you have good access to the outside cir-clip. Make sure you set up rags to close off the crankcase. Not questioning your methods you have more experience than myself. I do respect what you do. Cheers John from Sydney Australia.
Wow! Proper faff without a tapered cylinder. Glad I've only ever done this on Japanese bikes. Enjoying the series. More projects like this please 👍Oh...also, I use any of the Japanese bond products such as Yambond, Hondabond etc. Same principle as wellseal. Never had a leak yet.
Great work again. Your relaxed and careful approach is admirable. In the same position, I’d have got irritated, then annoyed, then angry, then hammer time 😂
I've done lots of Triumph and BSA top ends over the years. Never used a ring compressor, just positioned the rings fore and aft so I could rock the cylinder over them one at a time. Didn't worry about the gaps being on the thrust surfaces since the rings will rotate for a time after start up.
Me gustan tus Videos, muy, muy buenos y con más info. Me acuerda el difunto LUNMAD, aprendi bastante con sus videos caseros en los 90 y 2000. Muy humilde Mecánico. Te deseo lo mejor de parte de un amante de las motos Britanicas, desde Puerto Rico del Atlantico!!
Well, I have never ever thought in my whole life that I will be watching another man for so long and actually enjoying it, I am a very straight guy if you know what I mean 😆 Great video!!
I appreciate the very straight-forward delivery style of your videos. Watching you fit the cylinders onto the pistons makes me wonder how they did it (and now do it) in the factories - they have to have a faster method. Years ago I rebuilt a Honda 500-4 engine (my first bike) - getting the cylinders back was a memorable challenge.
Nicely done. Never used ring compressors always just wiggled em on, carefully. But normally have a good chamfer. Last one was Guzzi which was as easy as it gets really.
Fit the pistons in the bore from the top with the pin clips fitted on the inner side of the pistons ,the rest the bore on 2 bits of precut blocks of wood and put the pins in . No struggling and no swearing.
Very good tutorial, like the no nonsence way you do your work and how you explian work. Although quite pricey, have a look at the HAZET Pistonringpliers 794U-3. Once you have used them, you'll never go back! all the best
Regarding the tightening of nuts my rule of thumb is do it up so you strip the thread, then back it of a quarter turn,. I'm an engineer so do not question my knowledge. Seriously, it will be helpful to young fellas who have little idea and can get the correct way of doing things with confidence, and can refer to this anytime.
do you prefer well seal over hylomar blue .great channel, never too old to learn i have a 57 road rocket i have got back on the road and the advice on valve guides is really good alloy heads can be noisy ,don't always jump to conclusions had mine since 79 my first" big bike "
Wow a bit of a fight getting the barrels back on! I think I would have taken the time to chamfer the bottom to make it a fairer fight! But fair play to you, you do it for a living so if you can do it without busting a ring (or two lol) that's the way you do it. You are correct that Japanese barrels have got a good lead in to make assembly much easier. I wonder if BSA had special tools to do it other than clamps like you used. I'd hate to have to had to put barrels on eight hours a day day after day!
I held my breath when you were fittting the Barrel on, however did the factory do it on the production line under time pressure, would have been so much easier if the barrel had a taper on it .
I remember doing my first engine when I was 15 years old I used to do the rings with my fingers it never took this long I can remember some pistons had ring locators like a small pin in the ring groove
Ive never put pistons in the liners this way, ive always put the piston into the liner on the bench, and then lowerd the liner onto the crank, and inserted the small ends into the pistons, but with frozen gudgen pins, the same as you heated the pistons Great vids though thanks
I loved my A65T, but first few runs it kept nipping up on LH pot, eventually found the problem was the $2 gasket missing between head inlet and manifold, was a twin carb upgrade by previous owner = $$$$ 2 pistons & rings $$$$ 😂
Wow that no taper is a pita. I would have got much more frustrated in front of a camera. Interesting to see differences in technique. You wellseal and oil everything, I put on base gaskets dry and install dry barrels on the rings.
Thanks for the video. I've watched and enjoyed the whole series. I'm sure it's not great being filmed, I would hate it, but it is good to show that things don't just slip together without a bit of patience. Are you going to give a rough idea of the cost of the project at the end?
I've seen a Norton Commando video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I0E0jkPwUJI.html&ab_channel=JamesComstock) having the pistons & rings inserted to bores on the bench, then barrel positioned over crankcase and piston pins inserted & clipped in. Is that a method you have ever done before?
Hello there, enjoyed watching this. Something you might want to consider is not putting much oil in the bores and when running in, use a cheap base 20/50 oil, and that's important and secondly when on the road, rag the bike and make the engine work but not labour and that's important as you only have a short window to bed the rings in. Check out this link and the information is very valid. www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm This is what i did on my 1973 Triumph Daytona and the bike is smoke free with very little oil consumption and has good power. One last thing which is vital is to take the oil tank off and seriously wash it out, you won't believe the crap that comes out of them. I did this on the Daytona and then put a torch in to make sure it was spotless and it was. I use Hyperclean by Comma which is water washable and then a rinse out with a good washing up liquid like Fairy platinum and boiling hot water and then a final hot rinse and then i put the oil tank in the oven on a low heat to get rid of any moisture. If you need any A50/A65 Part's let me know as i have quite a lot of it and some A7/A10. I have just subscribed and given you guy's a thumbs up. I do know quite a few tricks when building bikes and i might be able to give you guys some tips on how to make some things easier when dissembling and assembling. Cheers. Billy.
I still cant bare the thought of installing dry pistons without oil.Why wear anything out faster than it has to.Ive never a problem seating rings using oil.To each his own.
Maybe next time we can watch the transmission being put together gear by gear and how to set the forks cuz I had problems with that a lot with I had a 69 BSA
