I am lucky that I just retired from 48 years as a mechanic and the business that I worked at went out of business and told me to keep all the inventory. This includes a bunch of brand new alternators and some are huge. This will be fun to tinker with this summer 😊
I love how you reused the rotor core! I made a 3D printed version that you can watch. I hooked it up to a small esc and put 18V at 3A through it, which showed surprising speed and torque for the power input without much heat generation.
Thanks for the great video. In order to improve the magnetic field of the rotor, suggestions for improvement are proposed as below. The current practice is that the neodymium magnet is completely embedded in holes of the same diameter, causing most of the magnetic "short circuit". If the diameter of the original hole is increased (the gap is required to be 1-2mm), 1/3 of the depth is reserved for fixing the position of the neodymium magnet, then there will be a better result.
You can make it self exciting by putting a few small rare earth magnets on the tips of the armature assembly and sealing in with epoxy. Make sure the polarization matches when the armature is energized. It will generate electricity from the stator that can be fed back into the armature so it can generate lots of usable power. Can easily power one like that with a a modified excercize bike or similar. Hoverboard or variable frequency washing machine motors make great low speed alternators but you need a means of transforming the higher voltage to usable DC. Output from these is about 28V and 370v respectively. 😲🤓😁❤
I think it's much easier to press the rotor apart, separate the halves with the fingers, remove the coil of wire in one piece, replace it with a speaker magnet from a large TV, then reassemble. Essentially replacing the field coil of wire with a permanent magnet. This is what the U.S. renewable energy hobbyists did back in the 70s and 80s to make wind generators, and hydropower generators. These days there are more efficient designs out there. Motorcycle alternators (Harley Davidson) can get to about 50 amps, and direct drive washing machine motors can go to about one kilowatt. For smaller ones take a look at the radio-control hobbyists market.
I did try to press the rotor apart later. It took over 5 tons of pressure and the spindle squashed like it was made of plastic. I cannot get a Harley davidson alternator or a direct drive washing machine motor easily in UK.
@@DaftOldMan I'm sorry it squashed like plastic. My experience is more with Delco and Motorcraft brands. It's my understanding that Fisher and Paykel used the larger brushless motors in the older top-load washing machines that were available in Europe, not sure exactly which parts of Europe though. The newer style front loader washers in the past 15 or 20 years have them, at least on this side of the pond. We can get them from used appliance stores that have some parts machines out back. Hope this helps, good luck with your projects.
@@johnwyman6126 Thanks for commenting John. Here in UK top loading washing machines are like hens teeth. In recent years some washing machines have arrived with direct drive motors but even as junk, these are very expensive when an alternator is fairly cheap. I am slowly making progress with my experiments but cannot get the results that other youtubers can get.
@@DaftOldMan Если ты заметил, то на левой половинке ротора каждый "зуб" имеет свой однотипный полюс, а на правой половинке ротора каждый "зуб" имеет совершенно другой полюс и это не противоречит логике и законам физики но, есть и другой метод установки магнитов, который показан в другом видео, где на одну сторону секции ротора, вместо отрезанных зубьев, приклеиваются прямоугольные магниты насильно соединённые одноименными полюсами, а на вторую секцию ротора устанавливают магниты точно так же, только с развернутыми полюсами один с другим и теперь каждая секция будет иметь свой полюс, только конструктивно совершенно отличается от показанного в этом видео. Если найду ссылку, то приложу к описанию. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-thvA4bQ2KHs.html В конце этог видео будет часть оригинального видео и желательно просмотреть всё видео целиком, чтобы понять суть своих "ошибок и проб" хотя, схемы подключения генератора и двигателя могут быть разными. Обратите внимание, что в таком варианте автор не избавляется от обмотки якоря, хотя она и не используется в схеме подключения 3-ох фазного двигателя.
@@user-nd2td4tv6g Спасибо. Я видел это видео. Изогнутые магниты - очень хорошая идея. Я не знаю, где купить такие магниты. Я думаю, что этот генератор будет производить энергию, НО нет такой вещи, как вечный двигатель. Двигатель никогда не может управлять генератором переменного тока и использовать выход генератора переменного тока для привода двигателя. Это невозможно, потому что лучшие электродвигатели и генераторы переменного тока имеют КПД около 70%, поэтому двигатель теряет 30% электроэнергии, а генератор теряет 30% мощности двигателя.
Thank you for commenting. The alternator is rate 12v and 110 amps so I was hoping for at least 12v and a few amps even at cordless drill speed. I will keep experimenting.
you have to make a rotor from permanent magnets the width you see and calculate with the stator, count how many poles the stator has divided by three and get the pole width on the rotor, then you get the correct magnetic field over each of the three windings, what you created is very inefficient because you made permanent magnets that are too small and when they move over the windings then it happens that at one point you have on the same winding and at the same end of the winding and the north and south poles at the same time, so the current induced in the winding is neutralized and you get only a little current and voltage. Another thing, the poles on the rotor are conical, which is the reason to reduce the jerk when turning the rotor to reduce vibration and at the same time get a smooth transition from the north to the south pole, you can see if you have an oscilloscope. Even the factory alternator is inefficient precisely because the magnetic field of the rotor does not intersect the windings at an angle of 90 ° but on the one hand a larger and on the other hand a smaller angle, you can measure it on the rotor poles by measuring the slope of the pole you have to make a rotor from permanent magnets the width you see and calculate with the stator, count how many poles the stator has divided by three and get the pole width on the rotor, then you get the correct magnetic field over each of the three windings, what you created is very inefficient because you made permanent magnets that are too small and when they move over the windings then it happens that at one point you have on the same winding and at the same end of the winding and the north and south poles at the same time, so the current induced in the winding is neutralized and you get only a little current and voltage. Another thing, the poles on the rotor are conical, which is the reason to reduce the jerk when turning the rotor to reduce vibration and at the same time get a smooth transition from the north to the south pole, you can see if you have an oscilloscope. Even the factory alternator is inefficient precisely because the magnetic field of the rotor does not intersect the windings at an angle of 90 ° but on the one hand a larger and on the other hand a smaller angle, you can measure it on the rotor poles by measuring the slope of the pole
Los altoparlantes de los televisores CRT, poseían un casquete metálico para anular el magnetismo de la parte externa del imán y así no afectar la pantalla... Pues en su proyecto pasó lo mismo al empotrar los imanes.
La razón por la que no tuvo el resultado deseado fué el haber embutido los imanes en el metal, el metal actúa como un blindaje magnético polarizado con el campo contrario anulando así la mayor parte de la fuerza magnética. Yo estoy haciendo el mismo proyecto pero cortando por completo las piezas de hierro y sustituyendolas por barras de imán de neodimio.
Interesante opinión. Saludos, por favor tengo una duda sobre generadores de energía. me refiero a los generadores que funcionan a base de quemar combustible. En relación a ello, me gustaría saber cómo lo consiguen exactamente? pues soy un novato y hasta ahora sé que para generar energía eléctrica, se necesita imán y bobina, pero ¿Cómo se magnetiza los polos del rotor de un generador sin una batería ni nada que inicie la generación de AC en los embobinados del estator?
You should have tested the alternator before the modification in order to verify first that it has no problems. Then you should proceed with what you already did. Now you need to verify if all the phases are healthy and then do the same for the three phase bridge rectifier. It is important to go step by step now. In my opinion, first you should do a test without the rectifier bridge connected and see if you have equal voltages per each phase. Under no load conditions, no matter the magnetic field strength, you should get much more elevated voltage per each phase than these 2,5V you measured. If this happens, your diode bridge is defective. This can also be easily identified by using your multimeter in the diode testing function and testing each one of the six diodes of the bridge separately. Keep in mind as well that you must solder the three phase windings. Simply pressing the wires in their connections is not the proper way to secure good contact of the wires included therein...Nice try anyway! !
Mi sono appena svegliato e il sonno mi ha portato consigli, è incredibile. Ho capito perché non produce molta elettricità, potrebbe essere perché non hai isolato i magneti sul rotore. Facendo così tutto il rotore è magnetico , e non va bene perché credo che tu abbia un campo magnetico unico e non alternato. Che ne dici?
@@silviobracale6733 Если ты заметил, то на левой половинке ротора каждый "зуб" имеет свой однотипный полюс, а на правой половинке ротора каждый "зуб" имеет совершенно другой полюс и это не противоречит логике и законам физики но, есть и другой метод установки магнитов, который показан в другом видео, где на одну сторону секции ротора, вместо отрезанных зубьев, приклеиваются прямоугольные магниты насильно соединённые одноименными полюсами, а на вторую секцию ротора устанавливают магниты точно так же, только с развернутыми полюсами один с другим и теперь каждая секция будет иметь свой полюс, только конструктивно совершенно отличается от показанного в этом видео. Если найду ссылку, то приложу к описанию. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-thvA4bQ2KHs.html Обратите внимание, что в таком варианте автор не избавляется от обмотки якоря, хотя она и не используется в схеме подключения 3-ох фазного двигателя.
@@DaftOldMan Я не публикую свой комментарий на первой странице, чтобы его не убрали, а оставил внизу в этой ветке и специально дублирую для автора видео: Если ты заметил, то на левой половинке ротора каждый "зуб" имеет свой однотипный полюс, а на правой половинке ротора каждый "зуб" имеет совершенно другой полюс и это не противоречит логике и законам физики но, есть и другой метод установки магнитов, который показан в другом видео, где на одну сторону секции ротора, вместо отрезанных зубьев, приклеиваются прямоугольные магниты насильно соединённые одноименными полюсами, а на вторую секцию ротора устанавливают магниты точно так же, только с развернутыми полюсами один с другим и теперь каждая секция будет иметь свой полюс, только конструктивно совершенно отличается от показанного в этом видео. Если найду ссылку, то приложу к описанию. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-thvA4bQ2KHs.html Видео смотреть до конца, там будет часть оригинального видео. Обратите внимание, что в таком варианте автор не избавляется от обмотки якоря, хотя она и не используется в схеме подключения 3-ох фазного двигателя через конденсатор.
Hi. A good video you made. Everybody makes mistakes but not everybody shows them and helps other people to learn. Did you measure the amps produced? Even small voltage can be usable if there is enough amps.
remove rotor poles and put in big mags epoxy and refit together but will need a lot of strength to over come cogging but much higher voltage will be had.
A lot of work for such a small output? Looks like small magnets can't match the field produced by the electromagnet. There's a few channels who would have connected up an LED and called it a win.
Yes I have noticed that a few youtube channels do stuff on video that I cannot replicate because it doesn't work. You are spot on with the magnets. They feel very strong but must be very weak compared to the original electromagnetic field.
Hello sir did you ever try to use alternator windings with those magnets? And what effects you get doing so? I mean is there posibility that this singel winding on the rotor can produce curent as well ? Wuld that work? I have problem because off back charge me car likes to run at 300-500 rpm but me alternator is just back charging so I need somthing to charge me baterrys at low speeds what voltage regulators you advise to use with such set up? Im not happy with me curent voltage regulator I wuld like to bypass some voltage directly to me ignition coil and bypass wire harnest.
With some alternators you can connect the positive slip ring brush to 12v and force charging at low rpm. You will need a switch so that you only use it when the switch is on.
Thank you for this wonderful information. To my own thoughts, since this alternator produces 12v while working on a car to charge the car battery, why adding magnet to it. I need more light, please Please, keep us informed on any further progress. Greetings from Nigeria.
Hello sir how does that magnet alternator behave at low rpm's ? Does it need some extention voltage regulator for baterrys? And what voltage regulator you preferre to use?
@@DaftOldMan I am Vikash from Mauritius. I think that you should use large rectangular bend shape N50 neodium magnets ,so that large enough magnetic flux induces in the coils.
To jest właśnie cała prawda o fake przeróbkach alternatora, których na YouTub-ie jest masa. Ten film pokazuje jaki rzeczywisty efekt. Dziękuję i pozdrawiam autora.
هدا هو الموضوع الدي اكلت به لاهيء اخر بحث لي قبل اجتياز مبارة التقني المتخصص موضوع عن المولدات بدوار كهرومغناطيسي ومغناطيسي وإنشاء مشروع البحث في مختبر المؤسسة مدة البحث وإنشاء المشروع ستة أشهر فقط
I think you should have left the slip rings and used the power from the permanent magnets to excite the field coils. Would definitely need a regulator though or the voltage increase when the field powers up might go vertical til something smoked.
@@DaftOldMan I think that's correct, there may be no way to regulate the magnetic field of permanent magnets short of a completely custom built armature that could move the magnets closer and farther to and from the windings, and that sounds complicated to me.
Thank you for comment. Yes I agrree thinner wire gives more voltage. This is how I got more voltage from a converted electric motor. I rewound the stator coils with thinner wire. With the PMA I want to get more power (Watts) as voltage and more current. I think 12v amd 100 amps is better than high voltage and low amps. I may be wrong.
Love your videos Why are people saying you need to regulate the voltage? Wouldn’t you want to take everything out besides the 3 wires originally? Isn’t the idea to make more voltage? Why regulate it? Isn’t a 12v alternator capable of putting out more like 40+?
Thanks for commenting. You can make any voltage as long as the wiring allows it. Max power is about 1500W so that could be 1500v at 1amp, 150v at 10amp, 15v at 100amp. Once you convert to PMA , you don't have a regualtor.
@@DaftOldMan thank you for explaining, since apparently I hear alternators are good for 100 amp? What would make the amperage change? Is it the rpm of the rotor? It seems like that means I can almost reach max output at 12v? If converting an alternator to a motor.. if I wanted to change my alternator to produce more than what it is limited to, what is the best way? I have 3 for a project and can’t figure out the best way haha
@@Civildiscussions I think you missunderstand amps. The amps are what the load can pull from the alternator. So a 1500w load will attempt to pull 1500W. If the voltage is fixed to 15v the load will try to pull 100 amps. So a load can pull roughly 80 to 120 amps from the avaerage car alternator. So if you turn on every electrical device in your car the engine rpm will increase to allow for the load on the alternator but if you hace a massive stereo amplifier fitted you may pull too much amps and the load on the alternator will be so great the engine rpm will slow. The alternator wires will overheat and melt. Motors and alternators are roughly the same thing so a 1500W alternator can work as a 1500W motor but you have to remember the alternator was not designed to be a motor. So if you want a 1500W motor, you should buy one. An alternator is not really a suitable motor due to the design.
Why not just pull one of the pole pieces off and put a single big ring magnet right where the old rotor coil was? You would have essentially the same device as before, except instead of producing the field with a single electromagnet, you produce the field with a single permanent magnet. You might have to stack multiple ring magnets, and maybe make a bushing if the shaft is too small, no biggie. Of course then you would also have a pretty cool DIY PMAC motor, if you provide a controller and a means of commutation such as hall effect sensors.
Or are you taking voltage readings from the diodes? Sorry if you showed this, i watched the video again and didn't see that. Just curious. And thanks for the video, it was great.
Stronger magnets will make more amps, but I think the speed would increase Volts, maybe puting more poles, there is still space between to make dubble the number of poles.
"Probabilmente" stai usando il misuratore di corrente continua sul multimetro e quindi, la componente DC è molto bassa, trattandosi di un alternatore. Prova a selezionare 200 su ACV
А зачем было убирать щетки? Нужно было через них самозапит подмагничивания ротора. Да и стабилизация выходного напряжения как никак. По идее, статор перемотать на тоньше провод, пожертвовать током, и увеличить количество витков. Ток в 100 ампер особо нигде и не нужен. Пусть бы лучше гарантировано 12 вольт 10 ампер, при небольших оборотах.
safety first you should turn off the drill press first before cleaning with the brush or measuring the hole and why people are afraid talking on those videos do you think anyone can recognize them by their voice ??
@@DaftOldMan Ok good but what happened after all this hard work the alternator didn't generated any power to run 120V or 220v I think all those videos saying they can create infant power showing they can run tools lightbulbs and 120V or 220V motor is all fake how can a 12V alternator supply enough power to run 120 V motor ? not even one answered my question YET even with all the changes you made it didn't make more then 2.1 V look at all the videos on the right side of the page generate 400V 3HP free energy if this was real everyone would have already made it long time ago I would have bought 10 Alternators from a junk yard and start selling those free power sources not one video really shows' how it works ..I think people making does videos for the sake of making videos on RU-vid
@@GTazz99 I completely agree with you. My video is not about free energy. I wanted to find out if an alternator could be made into a PMA and used to generate 1500W which is what the alternator is rated at. My experiments tell me that you cannot do it. Lots of youtube channels can, but I cannot. In theory the original alternator can generate 1500W using electromagnet coil on the rotor. I showed this in my other videos. My experiments were to find a cheap generator to attach to a windmill and then generate 300 to 500W at 12v. I could not do it.
Not sure how Musk should express his feelings, his Tesla can finally get rid of the battery, and I thank you on behalf of him, lol. I support the 🇺🇦 of the Ukraine
