Тёмный

PET Deep Dive, Part 1, The Power Supply  

Chuck Hutchins
Подписаться 2,6 тыс.
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.
50% 1

The PET power supply, checking AC, DC, unregulated and regulated voltages.
#comMAYdore #commodore #retrocomputing
Part 1 of a series on the inner workings of the Commodore PET.
My Twitter: / hutchca
My Blog: blog.hutchins1.net/
Commodore PET Schematics www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cb...
My Annotated Schematics drive.google.com/drive/folder...
Dave Curran's "Power supplies of the 8 bit generation"
blog.tynemouthsoftware.co.uk/2...
index
00:00 Intro
00:42 Different versions of the PET
01:12 Tools
02:01 Volt Meters / Multi Meters
04:31 AC Input
06:45 Static PET AC voltages
09:23 Static PET DC voltages
13:00 Dynamic PET AC voltages
15:39 Dynamic PET DC voltages
18:47 Universal PET and 12" monitor AC voltages
19:58 Universal PET DC voltages
21:25 Troubleshooting
24:10 Outro
25:02 Schematics and all measured voltages

Опубликовано:

 

30 июл 2024

Поделиться:

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист
Посмотреть позже
Комментарии : 42   
@HutchCA
@HutchCA 11 месяцев назад
Addendum: As Bill pointed out below, I forgot to mention the transformer center tap. @05:53 The transformer secondary, or output side has a center-tap which is connected to ground. This is simply another wire connected to the center of the windings where the output would be half of the full winding. Because it's connected to ground, that means if you measure the AC voltage on one wire with respect to ground you would see half the voltage. @07:49 I mention the static PET has a half-wave rectifier, but that is incorrect. Because the center tap is grounded, CR1 and CR2 are rectifying in both directions, but only seeing 9 volts each with respect to ground. This is important because, if that center-tap wire is broken or disconnected, your rectifier output voltages will not be correct, so it's a good idea to check that the center tap is grounded by continuity or by verifying that the reference to ground is half the voltage.
@adriansdigitalbasement
@adriansdigitalbasement Год назад
Excellent video Chuck! It's a most excellent resource for the community! I thought your camera work, audio and especially the helpful diagrams were top notch.
@garthhowe297
@garthhowe297 Год назад
Chuck...a terrific and clear tutorial. Thank you so much. I'm looking forward to number 2.
@geekwithsocialskills
@geekwithsocialskills Год назад
Awesome video Chuck. I've only been a PET 2001-N owner for 3 +/- years, but it's become one of my favorite vintage computers. You and your channel are a wealth of information for any Commodore PET computer user. Keep up the great work!
@MichaelDoornbos
@MichaelDoornbos Год назад
Deep dives are the best. Excellent series start Sir!
@8BitResurgence
@8BitResurgence Год назад
Great video. Looking forward to the rest of this series.
@JVHShack
@JVHShack 10 месяцев назад
I've been wanting to find this information in an easy to understand way and you've done it here, Chuck. Thank you!
@RudysRetroIntel
@RudysRetroIntel Год назад
Excellent video! A must watch for anyone working on a Commodore PET. Thanks for sharing
@RetroWK
@RetroWK Год назад
This series is a great idea! Thanks!
@MrParrothead60450
@MrParrothead60450 Год назад
Wow!. I will soon be diving into 2 PETs. This is perfect. I have one of each as well. Subscribed.
@TastyBusiness
@TastyBusiness Год назад
Very good video full of useful information.
@mikehibbett3301
@mikehibbett3301 10 месяцев назад
As a kid I dreamt of owning a PET (with a decent keyboard)
@LordChariot
@LordChariot Год назад
More please.
@mondocommodore
@mondocommodore Год назад
Complimenti, video ben spiegato e ben fatto!! Bellissime macchine!!
@devMashcom
@devMashcom Год назад
Great video Hutch! I can’t wait to see part 2. I’m curious if you drew those schematics yourself, and what (if any) software you might have used.
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
The schematics are from Commodore. I just annotated them using Windows Paint. I did draw the power cord diagram using paint and some graphics I found online.
@devMashcom
@devMashcom Год назад
@@HutchCA Wow. All my schematics look like 4th generation copies of library books that were scanned upside down by a 5 year old at 60dpi.
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
The Commodore schematics from the 70s were hand drawn with stencils and straight edge. They've been scanned and put online. link is in the description.
@JWalterHawkes
@JWalterHawkes Год назад
Thanks Chuck! This is great! I’m looking forward to more. I’m restoring 2 4016s. Such slow work. Also curious how you go about cleaning the board (should I bother with ultrasonic cleaning?) - I’m assuming you’ll get to the much talked about (for a PET) keyboard and I’m always interested in that. I’ve gone down so many rabbit holes chasing red herrings. I’m always glad to see more on that subject haha.
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
I did a video a while back on testing and repairing a keyboard. Look for "PET Business Keyboard Repair" on my channel from Oct 2018. Also touch on it in "Commodore "Super PET" Restoration (Part 2)"
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
Re: cleaning the board. I blow the dust off with compressed air and/or brush it off with an unused paintbrush reserved for that task. I have rarely washed a board with tap water or a bit of soap and tap water but I always do a final rinse with distilled water to be sure it doesn't leave behind any mineral residue. I know someone else who repairs a lot of C64 boards and he always uses an ultrasonic cleaner, but I don't have one that's big enough for PET boards.
@user-sz5vq1yt2s
@user-sz5vq1yt2s Год назад
I see a problem in the power supply description of the first PET. The transformer is shown with a centre tapped secondary, or at least two windings connected up that way. Typically the centre tap would be earthed for a simple supply arrangement. You have not shown the earth connection of the centre tap anywhere in your circuits. The two diodes you show are connected in the normal full wave rectifier arrangement, for when the secondary centre tap is earthed. Each diode on its own is a half wave rectifier, but their outputs are connected together and they are driven from the out of phase AC from either side of the earthed centre tap secondary. The load current in the computer flows between the +5 Volt supply and earth Without that earth return to the secondary winding, not only will no current flow in load (computer PCB) but you won't even have the +5 Volt supply. I don't know where the earthing is done, presumably around the transformer/filter capacitor. I haven't got that PET, or any PET. Now, assuming that the centre tap is earthed, what you have is full wave rectification of 9 Volts AC, not half wave rectification of 18 Volts AC. Still interesting Bill
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
Thanks. Yes, the transformer does have a center tap that is grounded on both versions of the PET.
@byteretroone
@byteretroone Год назад
Excellent video! A question: are the voltages at the transformer output the same for the 220 Volt European models?
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
This is an excellent question. The PCB is the same, so the input voltages should be roughly the same, but might vary a volt or two on the AC and unregulated side. The unregulated voltages are not critical as long as they are at least 4 volts more than the regulated voltage, but the higher the voltage the hotter the linear regulators will get, so you don't want them to be much higher.
@byteretroone
@byteretroone Год назад
@@HutchCA Thanks for the useful information! 👍
@ifonsecacarvalho
@ifonsecacarvalho Год назад
Awesome video! It is really helpful. Please do more! I have a PET with dram that powers on to a black screen, two of the first batch of diods get very hot, do you think this could be the cause? I was not able to meassure the voltage, I get a -7 reading. Which diods should I replace with? Thank you very much!
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
If the diodes are hot, that means they are working. Their temperature will depend on how much current is being drawn through them. It's usually obvious when one burns up. Check them with your meters diode tester is it has one. If your unregulated voltages are too low, a bad diode seems likely.
@AS-ly3jp
@AS-ly3jp Год назад
Thank you for that great tutorial! I have a PAL 8032, it looks like the setup from the universal board shown here in this video. The gigantic Capacitor blew up while the pet was plugged in (but 5 minutes after I turned it off). Since this capacitor seems to be almost impossible to buy anywhere (I only found one 40 year old in the US for 70 Bucks + shipping around the world) is it possible to replace it with something different? Thank you an happy Commaydore!
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
That kind of cap with the screw terminals might be hard to find but any sufficiently large capacitor should work in its place. The old one should be 23000-27000 uF but I'm sure it would be OK with less, or more.
@coryengel
@coryengel Год назад
Please do a video covering all differences between B series CBMs and N series PETs. Namely, give to their incompatibilities, what the heck is my B series machine good for?
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
Unfortunately, I don't own any B series PETs. They aren't as common in the US.
@deborahberi3249
@deborahberi3249 Год назад
This will help when I get into my PET 8032! Can you jumper a Toggle switch to switch between 80 and 40 Columns? And, I keep hearing that my PET 8032 has RIFA Cap(s) and sho9uld be changed out ASAP...that would be great if you covered that in Part 2. Thx. -Markj.
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
See my earlier video about RIFA caps. There's a pop-up card @19:19 Link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5V_bgdxlUjs.html I'll make a mention of that in my next video.
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
Changing 40/80 columns requires changing several jumpers and changing one ROM chip. There's an add-on card that does this, the Comspec 40/80-S2 Board. Link: www.6502.org/users/sjgray/projects/cbm4080/index.html
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
I posted a couple of comments with links in them, so let me know if you don't see my previous replies. YT sometimes blocks comments with links.
@infinitecanadian
@infinitecanadian 9 месяцев назад
Canada runs on exactly the same electrical system; didn't you know that?
@G7VFY
@G7VFY Год назад
For long term reliability, is it worth swapping the linear regulators for their switch mode equivalents as this should reduce the amount of heat produced, quite significantly. Stephen G7VFY
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
It depends on your philosophy. Some prefer to keep the parts as original as possible, but I've seen users pull the linear regulators and wire in a Meanwell switching power supply. It would cut down the heat, but in my experience the linear regulators are fairly reliable. I have yet to replace one and I've only heard about a couple of failures in other PETs
@MattKasdorf
@MattKasdorf Год назад
​@@HutchCA My thought would be to keep the transformer and swap out the linear voltage regulators with Traco voltage regulators.
@HutchCA
@HutchCA Год назад
@@MattKasdorf That'd work too, as long as those switching regulators can handle the same amount of current.
Далее
PET 12 inch Monitor Repair
26:56
Просмотров 744
Я КУПИЛ САМЫЙ МОЩНЫЙ МОТОЦИКЛ!
59:15
Some of my old Acorn ARM hardware designs
35:20
Просмотров 29 тыс.
Show and Tell: DEC VT102 and PiDP-11
9:51
Просмотров 7 тыс.
Really fixing the CRT spot on the Commodore PET 2001
39:01
Mini PET - Build a Commodore PET from all new parts!
26:52
HDMI for the Commodore PET
23:36
Просмотров 4,2 тыс.
Fix A Computer Power Supply!
20:55
Просмотров 381 тыс.
Magnetic Logic - Forgotten Technology
17:34
Просмотров 459 тыс.
Я КУПИЛ САМЫЙ МОЩНЫЙ МОТОЦИКЛ!
59:15