Now in Jan, my plant has white leaves colors, Because of busy day, taking care of sick, I get up daily at 10 am, bring the plants to the light, bring back in closet around 6 pm, is it ok? When the stems are bare without leaves, should I water ,dark till march? Also, can I grow them by cutting stems, grow them in water?❤
I appreciate the watering tips. Question: how do you know when to water? How dry should the soil be before it gets the double dose of water? Thank you!
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Question... you mention the ethylene gases, not keeping them covered with the plastic on the way home from the garden center, are those the same gases that help turn the brachs red when you place the box over them for the overnight darkness? Or are they not present until they are red? Wondering why the gas does not hurt them durable no this period. Thanks
The photoperiod or lighting of the poinsettia with 12 hours of light & 12 hours of complete darkness is what helps color up the bracts. Cardboard is gas permeable unlike plastic. Plastic can trap ethylene gas which causes premature aging. Covering the plant with plastic in transport is fine, just remove when it gets to its final destination.
You may have a few leaves drop at this time of year, but it should be minimal. Check soil moisture or perhaps drier, less humid conditions inside the home if you turned on your furnace. Best to keep the humidity up on poinsettias and keep them away from hot or cold drafts. Continue covering/placing the poinsettia in complete darkness from 5 pm to 8 am, keep evenly moist to slightly dry and continue to fertilize for a total of 8-10 weeks dark treatment.
@@PetittiGardenCenters Question, during this time the poinsettias are to be fertilized weekly for 8 - 10 weeks? Or just one time during those eight to ten weeks.
I have 4big ones and very healthy and starts to have green leaves on top of the red ones.So its time to cut it down?Can I plant on the ground?They gets the morning sun till 1 pm.
Now is a good time to cut the poinsettia back because it is actively growing again. It will be safe to plant it outdoors after the last spring frost which is usually around mid-May. You can begin to slowly acclimate your plants to the outside temperatures and sunlight around the beginning of May. Morning sun, eastern exposure, is excellent for growing both sun and shade loving plants.
Thank you for the tips. But I do have to say I hate the whole thing with using ice to water tropical plants. I have been growing orchids for year's now and people would always ask me how much ice do use to water them. At first it caught off guard but I explain that as easy and as harmlessly as that may sound its just frozen water. You must understand the anatomy of these plant and way they evolved to thrive in subtropical and or tropical climates never have to feel frosty temperatures and so your choosing to be lazy and placing ice on your tender sub or tropical plant that has evolved without a way to protect its soft tissues like the stems and or others from the temperature of ice and can cause frost burn. To even killing your plant from the damage caused by the frost bite that extended to rot and so on. If they are a subtropical or tropical plant please keep ice as far as you can from them period. Place the ice in cup let melt and come to room temperature and the water that plant with that but please do use ice directly on plants. Or your just asking for disaster. Cheer here are my two cents in the matter!
Begin Poinsettia "light training" approximately 8-10 weeks before Christmas. We recommend starting October 1st, which gives you a few days to get into a routine of lighting from 8am-5pm, then covering from 5pm-8am.