Great information. My Vanos pulleys went locking, so ordered new ones. Worth a thought, you can turn the cams with a 27mm spanner, so you don’t mark them with Vice Grips
cam bolts are stretch, always replace, also best remove the sprockets and clean mating faces as keyless and dont want oil dripping down. New tensioner will press over 10kg so test the old one (press it almost fully down on scales)
If you were to do a valve stem job without removing the head you would need to remove the cam shafts altogether for better access to the valve springs. Then how do you time it when the cam shafts are back? Assuming the sprockets will have a marking to follow. Trying do valve stem seal job on my own but lacking confidence
Thanks for this information. I was worried for my timing belt but I see that it's actually a chain ! Since I bought my 207 two years ago I have found it under performing and the noise it makes when I accelerate sounds like pre ignition to my untrained ears. Peugeot have had it a couple of times and have never suggested that the timing may need adjusting - I guess because the computer doesn't show any errors. I might invest in a kit and check this myself.
Douglas i would recommend replacing the chain it you intend on keeping the vehicle. Old chains stretch and alter the timing so resetting an old chain is not a good idea. A Short term solution.
Interesting never seen timing like this before but it looks simple enough with the locking tools, how long do the chains last on these before they should be replaced?
@@robertciganovic965 if I remember there are marks on the Chain too. Fit the chain, lock the cams with the tool. Torque the new cam bolts. This is now set. Once everything is tight. Turn the engine round twice and check the cam tool fits into place as before. All the marks on the chain and vvts should line up. If so you’ve got it right.
Hi just came across your video. I have a 207 gt 150 thp and it's got a p1338 code...on the reader it says cam sensor but Google says misfire cylinder 2...changed all plugs tries coils for spark and all fine there.. car runs lumpy as hell and engine shakes on tic over.. rev it hard the shaking stops any ideas before it goes for scrap??? Please help!
Have you checked the resistance on your injectors. Sounds like this could be your problem. Çodes will say misfire because of lack of one or the other. Its a common issue. Thanks
@@r.sgreasemonkey8876 been told unlikely to be an injector but more the hpfp as they are a common failure. No never had injectors checked.... when engine is running if I unplug 1st 3bcoils engine gets worse but unplug the last 1 their is no change?
Hi.I have quastion.in my 207cc I've allready changed nearly everything(chain,sprockets,vvti's,pistone ring,all seals done.)car starts no problem.Runs a bit ruttle on idle and shows p0014.trouble codes.Timmings was done,twice or three times on locking tools,solenoid was changed(twice)Nothing...Apart from that car have poor acceleration and use a lot of fuel.Pressure on every single cylinder is 13 bar on cold engine,catalitic converter was changed as well.Maybe you have any idea what's wrong??
Ok.i sort it this problem.But...i have another one.Car runs ok.but needs about 15l/100km which is about 20mpg.I thinh little bit too much for this car.Cat was changed,lambda sensor,injectors,and intake manifold with map sensor..still that same
simon sherwood hi the purpose of the video is an explanation on how to set the timing up only . the problem is an ECU picking up a coherence fault between the inlet and Exhaust cams the only way you're going to rectify this fault properly would be to replace it with a new timing chain. I hope this answers your question but please reply if you have any further.
It moves when it starts to get loose, or skips a tooth, its usually because of the tensioner not doing its job properly, if your not getting error codes (engine management light) or misfires etc, then the tail tail sign that your tensioner has gone bad is the death rattle as they call it, thats the timing chain rattleing around in there, which eventually breaks up that thin plastic guide at the top and theres only one place for the broken pieces of plastic and metal to go, into the engine, bad design, you can prevent this by doing regular oil changes, and even Peugeot themselves recommend changing the tensioner every 20K miles, if you do this, the chain itself doesnt need changing for 200K miles, if its got to the point where its slipped or skipped a tooth, you need to change the whole lot as it will just end up going out again with the same parts. This is basically the tensioner fault here, this is for a different car, but it will give you an idea of what the fault is with the tensioners in these BMW EP6 engines ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WyYsgZ5GLX8.html
