I finally broke down and bought a set of torches... then it occurred to me... I haven't used a torch since I was 16... I know nothing!!! Here is an unboxing, setup and test.
Never use anything flammable with Oxy Ever. that includes plumbers dope Teflon tape however is inert but if you just hand tighten a torch it will heat up and become tight enough to clog the leaks you are worried about.
I'm a journeymen ironworker. I use cutting torches on a daily basis. No more then 10 psi on the acetylene. 40 on the oxygen. When you ignite the torch, turn the acetylene up until the black smoke goes away. Then induce the oxygen slowly then squeeze the trigger until the blue flame on the inside is about a quarter inch long while still turning up the oxygen.
M K I second this and a boilermaker, also when turning your torch off chandler always turn your fuel off first, the excess oxygen will blow the flame out and reduce flashback.
I've had my Victor medium duty kit for about 20 years (older style regulators), works great. Had one regulator seep (some gas passed while adjustment screw was loose), took it apart (top unscrews, this took some effort), cleaned it up and it now works as it should.
Chandler, don't run the working pressure on the acetylene over 15 psi it becomes unstable and is dangerous. 7-10 psi will do anything you want. You can go higher on the ox. You tube has some good starter vids.
Dark Water i learn it in bars. don't know for sure, but i thought of whas 0.2 bar acetylene and 0.5 bar oxygen. its a long time ago that i cute metal with a cutting torch.
It seemed like on the cutting head you had the oxygen set wrong. When cutting you use all 3 knobs. The gas valve doesn't change in function. The oxygen however does. You open the oxygen valve at the base of the torch all the way. You then use the knob/valve in the middle of the torch as your oxygen fine tune. This gives your torch full line pressure to function as an assist gas. The assist gas blows away the molten metal. One other tip would be to point the tip of your torch in the direction of travel. That will allow the torch to preheat the steel.
When I light my acetylene I turn it up until the black particles / smoke goes away and turn on the oxygen until you can see your blue flame points at about 1/4 in from the head. Other than, practice makes perfect.
Victor is good quality stuff, nice kit. Please wear goggles when using the cutting torch, the cumulative damage to the retina isn't reversible. I know a lot of tuff guys will say they never used them but they're knuckleheads. Sometimes while cutting tiny bits will fly back and they'll prevent the crap from getting in also. Good investment, Be safe
Left hand threads are indicated with hash marks on the nut. Never use thread sealant on oxy fuel torches it's flammable and a hazard. When turning off the torch always cut fuel supply first. Also it's bad for the regulators to leave pressure on them so back them off after using the torch. Just a few things I learned in welding school. Nice torch
When cutting turn oxygen on full then adjust for neutral flame with the knob at the front as this sets the flame heat then when u press down the he oxygen will blow out the large centre hole to cut the metal as it has the flow and pressure on the full open at the back
you're the best blacksmith on utube... and an American patriot. I too used to be a robotics engineer and am now a 'not blacksmith'. You inspired me, and yesterday I 'invented' a very simple 'third hand hold down' that is for my Pritchel hole, only two forged rods... if you're interested you can have it... (gratis, as a token of respect from an old vietnam vet, just giving back and helping a brother make america great again. ) God bless your endeavors.
Hoping I can help. Don't hang your goggles by the elastic band, unless you have a 2 foot diameter head. When you use the cutting torch, you should turn the handle oxy valve all the way so it can supply the flame and cutting jet, then adjust the flame oxy with the valve on the cutting head. You should only tighten the attachment nut hand tight, there should be rubber rings to seal it.Best of luck, I am confident you will figure it out.
quick tip for oxy cutting,once you achieve a good neutral flame do a final adjustment while holding in lever as you would while cutting close in on oxygen untill you have no feathering, now the final step very slightly open oxy to allow a slight oxidizing flame , you will achieve easier starts and cleaner cuts if you can perfect this technique
Make sure you turn off your fuel before your oxygen to purge the line a bit, and reduce the risk of a flashback. Especially since you don't have an aresstor for your tanks. Also just handtightened connections are fine. You could potentially warp your threads by using a wrench, just needs to be snug.
I bought this set at airgas a month ago. I just hooked it up this weekend. The acetylene bottle, is also from airgas. Checked for leaks with liquid detector and found a bad seal on the bottle.taking the bottle back next week. Looks like some pitting at the flare fitting. You probably know by know, but the reverse threads are a safety feature so you don't hook up to a non-acetylene bottle, or reverse the oxygen/acetylene.
We have two things in common: the first is that we're both poor and the second is until yesterday I never held an oxy-acetylene torch since freshman year of high school. You finally learned what I've read and heard on setting the acetylene is increase the flame until the just stops. This will help prevent the popping which you really don't want to do cuz I read it's harmful on the tip and those rosebuds are not inexpensive: I am talking from first-hand experience on this latter.
Chandler, be sure to use the goggles when operating the torch. The light blue cone flame at the torch tip is putting out short wave ultraviolet light, which can damage your vision. I speak from experience as I am now legally blind.
I've had ' arc eyes ' a couple of times when I was about fifteen. I just cant have a flash of bright light, or I'm blinded for several minutes....or up to hours. That's why I always ride my motorcycle wearing sunglasses, even at night, in conjunction with a tinted visor....
If you ever feel like you've got hot sand in your eyes stop and rest and increase the filter grade of your eye protection before you start again. While not as dangerous as welding light levels cutting torches can still do serious damage. If you are using the "proper" eye protection and still have "flash" symptoms then your eyes are more sensitive than the average and require higher filtering. Be safe out there folks.
Chandler: Glad to see you got an oxy/acetylene rig. You probably won't use the cutting torch much as you have a plasma cutter. The welding tip will probably be used for brazing and soldering more than anything else, as you have an arc welder. But the rosebud tip may turn out to be your favorite. The two welding reference books I have are WELDING by James A Pender, second edition, and The Oxy-Acetylene Welders Handbook, 6th edition, put out by Sears Craftsman, an oldie but a goodie. You should be able to find them on Amazon or EBay. Take heed to what almost everyone else is saying here. Lots of good info being sent. Thanks for your many videos. Jon
the valve on the oxygen has a double seat,, one for closing the valve and one for when it is open, so always open the valve all the way, so it does not leak when open. I set the oxy at 30 and the ace. at 7
One thing no one mentioned is to keep hoses away from melted slag when cutting or it will burn holes in your hoses then you really got problems. I always hung mine over my shoulders which kept hoses off the ground and no where near burning slag. My first time using oxy acetylene was when as a kid hanging out or worked for the much older guys on Railway Ave down by the farmers market in South Paterson New Jersey that had different shops and garages, I was in 6th grade, one built professional racing cars, Jungle Jims famous Camaro, The Green Monster, the Snake to mention a few, another on Getty Ave that built mud racers from old 1950's cars and had to cut rims in half adding a center section they welded in the middle to make special extra wide rims for the wider tires they used on the inside side of the car of the round racing track, and another shop Fuzzy's Signs and Lettering which was where all the bikers hung out at because he painted many of their bikes and helmets for them, then in metal shop in freshman year in high school. Before high school I was already a very experienced cutter and welder by working with all the afore mentioned shops and garages before my teen years. We had to put our own flame arrestors on them. Even in high school they we not prefabricated on welding and cutting torches yet, so our teachers instructed us to turn on gas first when lighting and turn gas off first when shutting down to prevent back flash.
This works for the welding head but also applies to the cutting head as well. Light your acetylene and increase it at the torch until the black smoke just barely disappears. Open up your oxygen until the bright inner cone extends and the long outer cone shortens and they become one sharp cone (or multiple for the cutting torch).
Pressures for cutting : Oxygen : 20-25 psi Acetylene: 5-6 psi Start the torch and adjust acetylene flow to a straight flow coming out of the torch tip and bushy tail at the end. Then slowly bring in the oxygen til the flame cone joins with the inner cones at the tip. 🤙🏾
Normally I hate unbox reviews but this one wasn't bad. I liked seeing what comes in the box without you admonishing the box itself and emphasizing on the quality of the plastic wrap.
Just seeing the new torches reminds me of shop class where I had to take the torch out of a classmates hand who was cutting metal with slag falling around his hoses...
When using the cutting head on that type of torch you turn the oxygen valve on the main body fully open then adjust the heating flame with the valve on the cutting head, must say I never liked the combination type torch, prefer a separate cutting torch.
Also, I'm surprised you didn't have a torch before now. Yeah, you can heat the metal in the forge and bend it or hot cut it, but a torch is so much faster for fabrication level cutting and bending. Glad you finally got one, you'll love it I'm sure. Please continue to do the occstional hot cut and forge bending as well though to keep that skill set fresh in your arsenal. Gas bottles run out at the most inopportune times.
When trying to dial in the oxyfuel ratio for cutting you want to get the where before pressing the cutting handle the feather (White part of the blue flame) is exactly in line with the short cones of flame that are at the base of the flame.
When you turn off the torch you should turn off the gas first and let the O2 snuff out the flame. It helps to reduce the chance of "flashback". (I think that's the right term.)
on the cutting torch theres a blue feather flame keep it small 1/4 inch and close to to the cutting tip. adjust fuel and oxy for the blue feather. dont squeeze the blower trigger while adjusting for blue feather. when i cut i always drag towards me thats just a preference but some people like to push away.
A before O or up you go. This goes for start up and shut down. Also use your mixer on the cutting torch to adjust oxygen and if I remember correctly you close the mixer and open the oxygen valve on the torch body fully that way when you give it full cooch with the cutting level you have something like 20psi of oxygen but my memory is a little fuzzy with the cutting head since its been 2-3 years since I used one
This torch kit has flash back built in the handle body right above the valves. But would be a bad idea closer to the tank in case hot metal burns your hose.
I own the Victor performer, and it works great. You'll get used to it quickly. Look up a video on "neutral flame" and you will own it. Fun video, and thanks.
You got the right torch and it is a very good torch setup. you are lucky you got a torch with flash back arestors because if you didn't you could risk your fule tank exploding if the flame got sucked back in to the torch down to the hose and in your bottle wich will expload. When you first started the torch and turned on the oxygen to fast I heard the flash back arrestors prevent that flame from going down your hose when it popped. if you would have gotten a torch without it and didn't know any better to turn off your fule your tank would have blown up.
35 oxy and 5 acetylene is a good starting point. dont run acetylene over 15 psi, it will self ignite from friction in the line. also when youre killing the flame always kill the acetylene first, and some flash back arrestors would be a good investment.
Never tighten the torch heads with a wrench. Hand tight is all you need. Also probably no need to blow everything out like that but I understand you're new to it. Bet you'll have tons of fun with your new torch! Cheers :)
I'm sure someone will say I'm wrong but I've found cutting "down" or towards me at a slight angle gets a smooth cut. Love the review thinking I need to get a set up myself soon :)
Well thanks for this video ... I also nothing about gas torches, and learned a lot between you and the commenters in the thread. My boy likes oxy-actelyne for welding but he's only had a bit in school so we can use all the additional help we can get when that goes forward
I was taught to set the oxy to 20 acetylene 5 leave the bottom oxy all the way but the top close all the way and then let the oxy in until the cones are separate 1/8 away from the head
You best bet is if you know someone that uses them for a living to talk with them and have them show you what to do. Its easy for everyone on here to tell you what to do But having someone show you in person is a lot better than watching videos and or someone just typing what you should be doing
Great review! I haven't used a torch since never but i feel like i learned a lot. If someone gave me a box like that i now know how to set it up and how to use it.. :) RU-vid content creators are pretty fantastic and this love for sharing knowledge is one of humanities best traits.
The only thing I learned to do while at Job Corps was to use an Oxy-ace tourch cause I spent most of my time there sick and the fumes from cutting weren't as irritating as the fumes from arc welding rods.
I'm just the other side of skaneateles. Thanks for the vid. I'm currently at a standstill waiting for my kit to come in now. I went with a metalist 350. Pretty much the same price. Couple differences. I'll be posting a video since I can't find one specific to that kit.
I'm at 5:15 and wondering if he'll realize the acetylene bottles are left hand thread. Ah, lol...he edited it out. @17:00...Your O2 pressure is too low is why you're having trouble blowing the slag out of the cut. 5psi on the gas and 25 on the 02 is the proper setting then tune it at the torch knobs. It doesn't take a very hot flame to cut most things.
You can use a Propane tank, but with aw special value. It will work just as well as acetylene, my uncle used it to cut up scrap metal. It's also cheaper. One more thing ALWAYS shut off the Acetylene first.
Did you ever figure out how to use the cutting torch? You close the isolated valve, and turn the oxygen valve on the handle full on. Light the torch and set your oxygen with the isolated valve. Then you do not rob the heating flame of oxygen when you push the lever to cut the metal. Also, I ALWAYS turn to acetylene off before the oxygen so all of the acetylene is burned off.
biggest suggestion. A before O when turning on the tanks and especially when turning off the torch. always turn the acetylene on or off before the oxygen
Hey Chandler, I got the same set up, Love mine, works great for farm/hobbie/semi prof work. Grats on getting it and be your itching to burn up something lol.
Should look into using propane instead of the acetylene. It doesn't have as high of a max temp as acetylene but it's more economical and gets the job done just fine and no need to change your hardware besides the tank.
Always make sure your hoses are out of the way of both your flame and any materials that drop while cutting. I couldn't really tell in the framing of the shot, but it looked like the hose was a little forward under your cut. Hot steel vs rubber hose full of gas is a bad bad thing. You'll be up and running in no time with your new tool. There are some good (and bad) videos out there on set-up and use of your oxy-ac system, take a little time and do a little research, it will be worth it in saved fuels in the long run.
YES MAN IT IS A GOOD PRODUCT, THE FAULT WERE WHEN TRY TO CUT WIT THE TORCH. YOU ADJUST THE FLAME WITH THE WRONG VALVE. MAIN VALVE FULL OPEN AND THE TORCH OXIGEN VALVE IS TO ADJUST THE FLAME. THANKS FOR THE REVIEW
chandler just as a side not well done for getting the torch they are so useful but you add oxygen then the flame is starting to flutter and you will see and know test it when it does as well as with the presure try to have it so the the torch is next to silent when it is loud it's over pressured and blowing out to much gas
I know that compared to oxy-acetylene, oxy-propane has a slightly lower burning temperature, but puts out more BTUs. If you are mainly using the torch to heat steel, I'm no expert but propane may be more effective, and probably cheaper
Chandler not sure if someone mentioned it already but for safety purposes, few things. 1. when not using rule of thumb is to keep the bottles away from each other at least 25ft. 2. have a plate between the bottles. 3rd make sure the room has some type of vent or air flow in case your ACE. bottle is leaking. God bless you brother.
Hey Changler, love your videos, sir. I'm not a safety freak by any stretch of the imagination, but it would be a good idea to get some flashback arrestors. That way, if hot slag falls on the hoses and manages to burn through, any flame up will stop at the arrestors. I only say this because it has happened to me in the past and they potentially saved my life. Keep up the great work. :)
acetylene at 7 p.s.i. oxygen at 40 p.s.i. that's what i was taught and always use and i'm not dead yet. you need the higher oxygen p.s.i. in the cutting torch for blowing the metal out. fun fact: you can use the acetylene soot to prevent welding spatter from sticking to your work piece. just feather the torch out with acetylene until its making good soot and torch the piece real quick, done.
Wow, one more reason for me to envy you! I've learned how to do a lot of things, but I've never had the chance to learn how to weld (with a torch, or arc-welding) or do blacksmithing - they didn't let girls take shop in 1961. I can see how that torch set will make it easier for you to do a whole bunch of stuff around the shop :-)
I also like using propane -(children you must use propane regulator) word of caution - what a great tool my torch is. Thank you Chandler for videos. Your doctor has you dialed in now, glad to see you back in the saddle doing what you do best.
chan, PUT THE GOGGLES ON, the first time you burn your eyes and sit around all night putting milk in them for lube you never forget it . Good start thought, and its 6-8 on fuel and 18-20 on oxy. , light the fuel and adjust until no black smoke, then adjust oxy.. go chan go lol
My dad taught me to wield with a oxy torch that how I put my first roll cage together everything I do now is mig but starting with oxy really helps when you move on to the more modern technology also we always set the regulations at 9 and 29
Sadly, all the Victor stuff in that box is made in Mexico, except maybe the tips that are made in China :( If you are shopping for new, go for Smith. If you really want a new Victor kit, get the Uniweld Victor clone, which is made in USA. If you want the best, get a used Oxweld or Purox torch :D
I admire how you admit that you know nothing about what you're getting into and aren't afraid to admit it. I also admire how you're getting into something you know nothing about in the first place. Good job.
