I have an LSVtec that has been running for over 12 years and the internals are bone stock. No arps stock gsr head gasket. It’s been on 12psi making 300+ hp for two years and hasn’t even hiccuped on me once. I drive it daily and beat on it every weekend at outlaw races. This engine has lasted longer then a lot of my friends “piston and rod engines” lol it’s reliable if you get a strong safe tune. I left the rev limit at 7200 and that could be why it hasn’t broke on me yet. Like they say the acronym rpm stands for “ruins people’s motors”
@@KOKO-fd3zr it all depends on how you take care of it dude. Oil change is your best friend and changing the oil pump every 80k miles. My uncle has a gsr ek with piston and rods only with a turbonetic t3/t4 and he put over 100k on that engine and it's still running to this day.
Stock vs stock I'd agree. Any time a friend of mine does a lsvtec I recommend the correct way of doing it. Such as a proper conversion kit, rod bolts at least of you're keeping stock rods, a gsr or type R oil pump, and gsr or type R water pump. With that said I have a built lsvtec that's made 853whp and 519tq no problems and it doesn't even have a girdle. So it's all in how you build it
Here we are now in 2024 and LS-VTEC is still the better option or for the same price (sort of), just refreshing a B18C1 or B16 depending on which one you have before dropping it in the car. I'm going LS-VTEC in my GS-R (blew up the C1...oops) and rebuilding the B18C as an all motor screamer. The B18C made 210whp with bolts ons, fuel support, and a 93 tune so I can't wait to see what the LS will do with the B18C head attached to it.
Solid video, but I’m running a b20vtec. I know slightly different but same basis as LSV. Cheap, sorta. Took me around 1700$ with all parts and machine shop work. Resealed the bottom end and all the stuff you should do. I have it street tuned and have beat the snot out of it and mostly driven it daily for a few months now without any hiccups (except battling iacv idle issues). I love my b20v it’s a solid setup and a good learners setup since it was my first motor “build”. It’s all in the tune, mine is probably save to rev to 8k all day but I wanted longevity so I set redline at 7200rpm.
So I have a B16A2 block with an Integra Type R head. I want to go boosted with the B16, but a friend of mine says I should go B20 and boost that. My main concern is that I'm not that great of a mechanic so doing a B20 swap might be quite difficult for me. I know that if I go boosted on my B16 it'll be a lot less hassle and I'm completely happy with a sub 250hp goal. I'm mostly concerned about the reliability factor. I've got a great engine that's very healthy. Maybe it would be better to have a B20 to rebuild for fun, just so that I can learn my way around the motor, then with the skills I learn I can eventually build my B16 to one of those crazy 600hp spec cars. Keep the B20 for my little brother when he gets his licence, he can have a built engine.
Got a B20b high comp, Circuit mine and autoCross it. I would go poor mans type R but I got the k sitting in the garage. Just gotta get my lazy ass up n build it 😩
Miton Films I know brotha. The motors blown so at least I have the block and tranny 😅 lol. I've sub'd for abbot bud go check out my channel if you have a chance. TeggyTuber Gang 🙌🏽🏁
We ran an LS Vtec on a 91 CRX for a little while. CTR internals and stock bottom end. Vtec would engage at 6,500 and redline was 10,500. I even took it to 11k one time during a close race.
I'm in the process of building a lsv. B18b1 bottom gsr head and total in it right now for litteraly every part is $800 but that being said it was hell of a deal the complete head was $500 that also came with a skunk 2 pro intake and arp head bolts and gsr distributor also got a hell of a deal on a skunk 2 composet fuel rail for 20$ off some crack head lol but with the gsr felpro head gasket, timing belt component kit, plug wires and plugs ( got a hook up on them to from knowing someone who works at the local parts store), felpro valvecover gasket kit, a felpro cam plug seal, oem honda vtec solenoid gasket, sandwich plate conversion kit, felpro intake gasket, and even paint and sandpaper to redue the valve cover still a little under $800. Also i had a buddy who had a head gasket fail after a week from improper install so the head gasket was actually free lol so alot of it was luck and some chip in help but still not to bad of a deal
Yo Miton, you need to upgrade your exhaust system. Heard you down in OC for H20i and the thing sounded like a bunch of angry bees stuck inside a Folgers can. :(
I have a b18c1 with a gsr head and I noticed it’s wayyy better with the right trans. Ls trans is a no no, gsr trans is the way to go. In vtec from 5000 rpms to 8500 rpms lots of fun
You stole the words out my mouth. poor mans r is better in a stock v stock scenario because the setup and process is closer to stock than a lsvtec where you have to modify things for the installation
And then comes the owner of my previous car. He took his B18A1, put A B16b head, Type R rods+pistons, Type R cams, Type R valves, and added all the necessary oil lines to make it as close to a type R motor. So its pretty much a Poor mans Type R/LS VTEC hybrid. Car runs hard though.
Nice video I’ll have to agree with you both engines have their own uses. Track or Drag that’s why I’m going Turbo LSV. I don’t plan to track it just drag and daily it. Well after I build piece together my turbo b20v and blow it. I don’t want to ship a motor when I move from Hawaii so I figure I might as well have a little fun with it and then just throw the other engine in when she blows.
My LSV hates High RPM's lol, soon as i start getting to 7K it sounds like its struggling. Also in vegas LSV's are cheap , you can get a b18a1 or b1 block for 300-400$ and get a GSR head for 300$.
a properly built lsv with apr rod bolts, b16 pistons, mild pnp with type r cams would shit on the b18c for years day in and day out. Torque makes a HUGE difference. This video gives ZERO information, I stopped watching as soon as you said "I've never built an LSVTEC" "I dont know too much about them". I had a JDM Type R on my eg, then went b20vtec with high comression same type r head and belive me, Torque makes the difference. Btw the b20 sees 9k+ rpm constantly. 4 years later still running great. Great dd or just weekend track. It takes ALL the abuse. I love Honda Motors.
Whats the power i should be seeing with my set up im putting together. -MODS- top end -stamped 1998 itr head(97) came with unknown skunk2 cams -skunk2 pro series intake -skunk2 racing adjustable cam gears BOTTOM end -b18a1 block -high comp STD type r piston caps(81mm) -stock ls rods -ARP rodbolts/ARP Gsr headstuds -high pressure ls oilpump -ebay lsvkit -GSR waterpump/timing kit Car was originally crower 402 cammed b18a,its original bad oilpump went out after 2 years of usage,and my 2 bearings spin the crank,had to do a full rebuild anyway so i broke it all down,dad came home the next day after work "got one hellofa deal for ya,guy at work is sellin a old em1 swap for $300,hes leaving town n wont need it anymore...so yea i took that chance in a heartbeat...when i got the swap i started digging into it,the head had green paint behind the distributor,and had a Japanese symbol etched into a box on the head,meaning it was a itr head,i was super syoked because my dream swap was a Integra Type R swap for my ef hatch🤙🏼
the poor man's R for the reliability since the parts fit perfectly the LS/Vtec has more torque to start with thanks for its stroke (89mm vs 87.2mm) but cost too much just to be reliable my mechanic told me he charge 6500$ to built one and for that price you got a Type R and maybe few stuff to increase the power
I specified a reliable built not buying the parts and put them together and incanada it's expensive to built an engine I saw people built them for the same price and you could follow them by the smell of oil
hugonubario I built my Lsv when I was in Canada. 9 years ago. In Winnipeg. Using a b18b1 block with a pr3-4 type r head. Tuned on hondata with a obd1 p72 I go to 8k daily and to 9 when playing. honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-"reliable"-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/ read that. If you built them right you will be rewarded majorly.
Bro your talking a lot of shit about ls vtec smh b18b1 block stock crankshaft, stock connecting rods, p30 pistons, GSR head ETC.. etc... built right; tuned right is perfect
Miton Films Miton Films Miton Films I don't want to hear it. Lol. why would you say somebody building an ls vtec want to use stock 20 year old pistons, during your "comparison" segment lol.. I don't want to hear it haha you did not use stock pistons in your poor mans engine.. good pistons and a GSR head will bump up a LS vtec a whole lot especially with nice oversized pistons for a true rebuild.. miton you go back and forth too much in this video on reliability.. your poor mans could be just as unreliable and frankensteining Honda engine goes beyond LS vtec and poor mans. obviously your engine could be very unreliable but built right then no it will function properly engineered perfectly.. so shut your mouth. When you say what you think vs our reality; are two different things. To me I think it's complete bullshit lol
Crvtec is the best b series built right my recommendation is b20z block will 11:1 comp piston forged gsr or b16 head with 3 angle valve job dual valve springs ctr camshafts type r intake manifold and 65mm-70mm throttle body upgraded injectors 320cc tri-y headers or 4-1 your choice if you want more torque or top end
I have both b18c1 and b16a2 motors sitting in my garage, would it make sense for me to throw the b16 head onto the stock internal b18c1 with the GSR cams swapped into it? Also using the b16 intake manifold with the GSR throttle body. Im not looking to make the most power possible but just wanting to make the most out of what I have. If this doesn’t make sense ill just throw in the full b18c1 as its going into my ek hatch currently with a d16
Wait a minute, I have An lsvtec that has been proud and power abuse for 8 years! And I also gunned it on some K series and it made them think about their stock tune and mods
I think lsvtec can be super reliable.. just because it didn't come wirh a vtec head and going and installing one doesn't mean it won't work right. done right it will work perfectly
What about upgrading the oil pump and you forgot about getting the water pump to match the head, I myself was a ls guy at 1st but even when I built my ls I put a type r oil pump to make sure I had enough oil pressure even though people swear up and down it's the same,but now I have 2 b20vs one freshly built wit a gsr head type r dual springs retainers etc eBay rep itr pistons and b17 cams sk2 mani and tb,one in my car waiting for rebuild I got the b16 rep p30 pistons and acl bearings for all setups this one has b16 head so I wanted to see what the compression was and the gsr head is 13.36 and the b16 is 12.94 i believe but it has port nd polish I also got a sk2 manifold and throttle body hondata intake, manifold gasket type r cams
If your putting a lsv together u need change out the oil pump Thas all, the B18B1 or A1 have thicker water jackets n are built to last from factory more then for performance, which is y they r better for forced induction, jus need a higher volume oil pump for when the vtec kicks in u don’t starve the rest of the engines form oil.
I roll with B18 LS Vtec and only go for B20B if that’s all I have but I love both also B18 LS Vtec is what’s makes it fun something new and challenging
Why u turn timing belt 3 teeth? Is bc is not the stocks cam gears or bc is a lsvtech.need help with that asap I'm finishing on closing head and my next step is that timing.but i see other videos is just line up all teeth straight
Not sure , however when I had this engine I did 30,000 miles on it. I did notice it had excessive carbon build up when I pulled the head, so I suspect I made an error somewhere
I did a lsvtec swap in my 92 integra b18ablock/b16head I am having troubles finding the right distributor every one I've tried the plugs don't match the 2 on the harness anyone got any tips?
Was thinking of doen that to my ls I have usdm itr piston in right now but it smokes I was gonna pull the head nd do the valve seals but it's already also built Brian crower stage 2 cams cam gears blox high compression brian crower dual springs cause I had blox nd one broke luckey didn't drop a valve supertech lock keeper blox manifold type r 70 mm tb fuel rail msd ignition chipped p75
So a poor man's type R's a b18c with a B16a2 head? Wouldn't a B18c1 w/B16b1 head be closer to a poor man's type -r? That would be a middle-class mans type-r. A b16b head would be more expensive since it's a JDM Civic Type-r head. It's not much better than the B16a2. Tad bit better valve angles/air flow.
It all depends on the compression you run..I'll stick to my b20vtec setups...and don't even start with that b20 bottom ends are week bullshit. There stronger than you think
Lol I laugh at your “poor mans r” build. How about actually getting a B16b CTR head to put on a gsr. Run it with p73-013 ecu. And finally pair it with a CTR b16 trans. Then you’ll laugh at how much slower lsV is compared to the R. 😂 I have both, lsV and a PMR. My PMR is faster in a heavier chassis than my LSV in my eg.😂
Stock lsv/b20v only good for torque and not high rev friendly As for built anything can be reliable and fast. Stock poor man type r is good because it's naturally a vtec engine so minor modifications and have reliability of a stock gsr. But I'd personally wouldn't waste my time slapping stock b16 head on a gsr block with out changing pistons.
I just recently bought a 97 Honda del sol vtec a couple months ago. I don't know all there is to know about Hondas but im slowly learning more information. From what I read, there's only so much you can do with the b16a2 when going NA because of the relatively small displacement. I'd honestly look into an engine swap but I bought the car with 84k miles so I don't see the point in swapping out a perfectly good engine with plenty of life in it. When I ask people they say, just do I/H/E which is great and I will, but can anyone be a little more specific like what brand, cai vs sri, what exact type of cams, exhaust/ headers etc. I was thinking of going with a "tanabe" exhaust because from what I've read they're not super loud. Any info tailored specifically to the b16a2 would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-"reliable"-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/ hey Milton love your videos. However I would say give this a read. I've been resting on my Lsv for 9 years since I've built it with a 12.2:1 cr and all I've had to do is valve seals and normal mantiance. Use ls rods with itr or gsr pistons will next you a 12cr. Using ls rods and pistons are going to next around 9-10
Sooooo tou rambled about something you have no experience with... going on about a poor mans type r... but no real basis... thanks for the waste of time looking for info....
GSR Block in all internals are already so identical to a Type R Block it's pointless to put Type R internals back into the GSR. the B16 head is what relates to the type r the most because of the head port their most identical to a Type R head port an flow..
lol. the type r pistons have .4 more Comp over gsr......b16 head loses comp on a gsr..........so....................................................🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
So you're an LS VTEC guy cool. I think all stock internals are junk you should really go spoon have all your s*** weighed balanced and machined down to the same spec. You know if you're shooting for long-lasting dependability and still gain lots of horsepower across the power sheet.. as far as tearing your GSR block apart to put in a Type R piston with barely a point for difference isn't worth it
Spoon is the way to go if you need stock specs for lower racing classes or just long life an dependability. but by all means slap some Westco pistons in that mug and boost the snot out of it
