Porsche 944 Timing Belt Installation Tutorial 

Awesome, glad to help!

@@edredas Same here, I've learned so much about my car from these videos, they're very well done! I especially appreciate the overview on the engine outside the bay, and then the details of in the car.

Thank you so much!

flatface how bad was the clutch? Told my buddy I wasn’t interested because it seemed like too much work

I plan to make a video on installing a timing belt on a car with an auto tensioner very soon!

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

You only have to remove the belly pan (if your car still has one) then the accessory belts. I hope that helps!

Thanks! Unfortunately I haven’t had the chance to make that video yet. That said, tensioning with the auto tensioner is the same idea. Sometimes they’re spot on but other times they aren’t. Just make sure you can still turn the pump with some force and it will be fine. Otherwise just back it off a tad. I hope that helps!

@@edredas Super helpful -- thank you!!!! I will use the forceful water pump turn as my measure to get it right. Is that the main way you like to set the tension, or do you check with a gauge when the camera is off? I only ask because, the P9201 tool is insanely expensive on ebay. Is it actually needed? Please make more videos -- so great to see you keep these cars on the road and learn from your experiences. BTW, you should offer a video consultation service... it would be great to get your insights via video chat!

@@edredas if yu have gotten around to it come help with mine lolol

Once the engine warms up and expands its normal to not be able to turn the pump by hand. I hope that helps!

Thanks for the tip. To clarify , does this apply once engine has cooled as well or should I be able to turn it again at that point. I’m trying to determine if I need to adjust tension already as it seemed perfect prior to startup. Thanks !

Once it’s cooled down you should be able to turn it again at that point. Sometimes the belt will get a good grip on it though and you’ll have to turn harder after it’s ran.

Ok good to know that’s normal as I can maybe turn it a only a few millimeters now even cool. I didnt want to re-tension and mess it up if that was normal. Thanks again !

Thanks! The balance-shaft video should play next but if it doesn't here's a link! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iBxOboQNQ6U.html Anyway, we are near Charlotte, NC. Note taken about the music, I add it so the video will have a pace. Its hard to get people to watch a 20 minute youtube video. Most people will click it off after 3 minutes if its just someone talking. Thanks again!

I like the music being there. keeps me positive thinking about doing this.

Thanks! I'm working on it. I want to get a engine with an auto tension on the stand so I can give everyone a good view of whats going on. At the moment I have six engines in the shop all are early, so it might be a while. For the most part it is the same procedure and you'll want to use a similar method to make sure the belt isn't too tight. Otherwise you will have to back it off a tad, which is common. The factory workshop manual mentions making sure when adjusting tension with the auto tensioner to push on the belt between the water pump and cam to see if it 'just' touches the cover, if it doesn't the auto tensioner has the belt too tight! I hope that helps!

@@edredas thank you very much for the quick reply. I'm replacing the water pump no doubt because the new belts put on last year were too tight. I wish my mechanic seen your video! Decided to install it myself and save 3-500$ and your video and info is worth much more. Thanks again friend

No problem! Thanks for watching!

No problem! Good luck!

Thanks!

Here is one of the most complete kits out there! I would recommend doing the front main seals as well, which are included! That said, you should also do the oil cooler seals that are not included as well. Once the oil cooler seals are replaced then you will be able to drive pretty much anywhere worry free! Also don't forget to replace the sensors! Don't wait for those to leave you stranded! Good luck! www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-timing-belt-kit-944-94410602113kit?ads_cmpid=352578679&ads_adid=22978217839&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85228816639&ads_targetid=pla-74834319395&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl5zgqa_U5QIVQl8NCh1sdA8aEAQYBCABEgIQM_D_BwE

Will do! I was originally going to put a spare late engine on a stand and do them both side-by-side but it didn't work out. That said, I'll try to make a video on the differences soon and also show how to install the late auto-tensioner!

Hey man really appreciate it. I'd also love if you could include how to access it (taking it apart) on here as I'm a complete noob mechanic, but trying to learn for this worthy car.

It shouldn't be that loose. At 944 fest I demonstrated how to adjust the belts for a group and almost no one could turn the pump like I could, and it was difficult even with a good grip. So it should be rather snug. Luckily you will be able to snug it up without taking the balance shaft belt off. Good luck!

@@edredas Thanks for explaining the amount of force necessary to turn the water pump. I found removing the idler pulley for the balance shaft belt allowed ample deflection of the belt so I could snug the timing belt.

If you’ve adjusted the belt so the slack is out of it then rotate the crank twice. Once will turn the cam 180 degrees and two 360. Afterwards using the OT mark on the flywheel move it until it is almost revealed from the bottom edge of the pointer on the bell housing. If the cam mark is still lined up then you’re in time. I hope that help!

I have a kriket gauge but have never really used it.

Yep, the spark plug is removed and the dial indicator is on an extension that is resting on top of the piston. Since the bell housing is removed from this engine I am using the dial indicator to know the precise moment the piston reaches TDC, and that's the spot where the marks would line up. I hope that helps!

edredas yes. I just couldn't see what it was attached to on my small phone screen. Thanks for the clarification.

Once the slack is removed from the belt the timing will be perfectly set, even if the crank rotates backwards some during the process. Rotating the crank forward some will line it all up again. Also keep in mind that the dial indicator is measuring in thousandths of an inch which might seem large on the gauge but negligible in terms of the mark on the crank. I hope that helps!

@edredas I figured it was prob good. Thank you for these vids, just did water pump, timing and balance shafts belts. The engine in and out of the car examples were very valuable

If you have the pistons lowered to reinstall the cam housing, then you should put the cam at TDC first, then reversing the crank counter clockwise should bring the no. 1 piston back to TDC and into time. If its out of phase then you may end up sending number 2 and 3 up and into the valves, so use a wooden dowel to make sure no 1 is coming up. At this point you only want 1 coming up since 2 and 3 valves are open. I hope that helps!

Yup, still planning to, eventually! I haven't had a late engine on the stand with an auto-tensioner in quite a while but I'll be sure to do that as soon as I can. As for rotating the sprockets you have to be careful since you can bump the valves into the pistons. I hope that helps!

The older style doesn't have the belt guide that keeps the belt from coming into contact with itself. Which is why they changed the design and recommend all of them be updated. With that said, an older water pump is a liability at this point and its best to replace it to avoid failure down the road. I hope that helps!

The belt tension is not exact, its more of a ballpark. As long as the belt isn't too tight on the water pump with the engine at room temperature you are fine. Keep in mind that as you tension the belt you add more pressure to the water pump pulley and it doesn't matter if you spill grease on the belt you still won't be able to turn the water pump if it is too tight. Again its mostly tension from the belts pressing against the pulley that turns it and not necessarily friction from the belt. Even if the greasy belt did result in being a little tighter than a belt without the grease, it won't make any difference because if you can turn it by hand then obviously the bearing isn't being over stressed. That said, I was thinking about demonstrating some gauges but I thought I would leave it to the audience to choose their own tool since the instructions are simple enough. Also, if the gauge is mis-calibrated and reads too high then its a waste of time to use and why I mentioned the rotating the water pump. While its not fool proof, it will get you in the ballpark.

Manufacturing residue on the new belt? Come on. The video shows exactly what you need to know, no tensioner tool necessary. Might be surprised to find how many go by feel alone. Like dude said it's a ballpark.

No need to use a flywheel lock if you're just replacing the belts. Its only necessary if you plan to replace the front main seal while your in there. That said, any shop should be able to get the starter bolt out for you. More than likely someone used an impact if it is that tight. Good luck!

@@edredas I was finally able to use a pry bar across the exhaust pipe to get enough leverage to get the bell housing side bolt off. Thanks for the encouragement! New belts go on this weekend!

Both the speed and reference sensors. Just the other day I was driving a car and the plug broke leaving me stranded. I was able to get it fixed but its better to replace them before you ever run into that issue! Good luck!

​@@edredas Hello, well timing belt is on, but mechanic says running a little off, not running perfect like before. He's thinking No. 3 isn't firing well enough, saying intake and exhaust valves, possibly headers, maybe send to a machine shop. He's checking those valves, but wants to talk to me first. I haven't heard it run yet. I want to make sure he didn't tension the timing belt without bumping back the Cam. Just so you know, it was the balance shaft belt that had broken and keeping it from starting, I was in a parking lot, not driving. Of course, I want whole timing belt kit replaced. That would be good mechanics. Any thoughts you have would be great. Thanks again.

The belt and installation is similar but the 968 has a completely different tensioning system.

@@edredas So just set timing marks and lock crank then?

Here's a link to a gauge that a lot of people prefer. The instructions will have the tensioning specs included. I didn't mention the numbers since the specs may vary by manufacturer. I made a separate video on the balance-shaft belt as well. I hope the helps! www.arnnworx.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=189&zenid=c7530283f20b63da04cf38f93aeb5d70#.XKD4eyJKiUk

At that price it looks like I'll be borrowing one lol. Thanks for the help!

@@edredas Looking to buy this tool from Arnnworx, 920Xv6 and have seen the help videos. The only bit I do not understand is why they put the slack back up to the belt on the longest run , where the tension tool is, by turning the crank counter clockwise. On your excellent video you make sure there is no slack by putting on belt with cam advanced by one tooth and then turning cam back to TDC. Thanks for the help!

@@mikseymono1 Once the tension is set then backing it up to the longest run will allow the tool to go on there. Trying to measure it on the backside of the belt is almost impossible and would give a different reading, but once the engine is rotated properly again, all the slack will return to back between the tensioner and the water pump as it should! I hope that helps!

The flywheel lock is only used to remove the crank bolt which is torqued to 150 ft/lbs.

Yes! You will just notice that that cam sprocket is about 4 degrees advanced. Without removing the slack you would be about 14 degrees off which would be extremely noticeable and cause poor engine performance. Good luck!

Not too much difference, on the later cars the issue is just getting the arm of the tensioner back on while installing the belt. Belt still should be checked for proper tension even on the later ones. I hope that helps!

@@edredas thanks for the help!

Hi! You should also do the air/oil separator seals and replace both reference sensors. The oil cooler seals are a must as well but I think by your last comment you plan to do that. So that should just about cover it! Good luck!

@@edredas no pulleys, tensioners for the timing and balance shafts?

Yes all the seals, rollers, and tensioner as well!

Update: it's not the same. You do have to remove the PAS pulley, altertnator pulley, and balance shaft pulley. My automatic tensioner didn't see to want to release the tension by more than 2 mm, so was very difficult to get the belt off.

Unfortunately I never got around to making it that video, but I do have an engine that I could use. So hopefully, I can do that soon. As for giving you some tips in the meantime, its pretty straight foreword since the tensioner should get you close. You just want to make sure the tensioner doesn't make the belt too tight which can be an issue.

Yes, it's very similar but yours will have an "auto-tensioner" rather than the eccentric tensioner on this car.

Sometimes the belts can stretch out and needs to be snugged up again. I hope that helps!

@@edredas I got a job a O'Riley for the winter so I'm just gonna order parts under my discount and replace it cheap enough to do so anyway but I think it's stretched out a bit water pump looks new funny enough but I think they used the old belts I'ma try a cap and rotor mine aren't far from original hopefully I get the misfire sorted

Yes, it’s very common for rust to make it very hard to find. Use the mark on the cam tower to help find TDC. Just before those marks line up have some keep an eye out for the one on the flywheel. That should help. If you have 1986 and later car there is also another mark you can line up under the car near the starter. I hope that helps!

@@edredas here is weird thing. So the rust is not harsh. I have an 84 944 and the head and cam tower is off because of two bent intake valves I'm replacing. I have a visual of cylinders 1 and 4 at TDC. Now I am able to adjust the top and bottom balance shafts while I'm waiting for my parts to change my valves I'm going ahead to put everything on their timing marks. The last was doing the flywheel. I put the car in gear and I have turned it 3 or 4 times but I can't find the OT or timing mark which would be easy for me to eye ball? Only thing I see is a dot indentation when pistons 2 and 3 come close to TDC. So I'm stuck at finding the marking? If this is an issue,am I able to balance everything on the motor without seeing the marking on the flywheel?

@@nicolomarinas7176 I wouldn’t try to time anything without the mark being found. Even just a tooth off and the car will run woefully down on power. Anymore than two teeth and you’ll bend the valves. So I recommend putting the engine with 1 at tdc and keep checking and scrubbing until you find it. The stamp on some early cars is very shallow so it doesn’t take much rust to hide it.

Hi, I usually advise people to borrow the tool the first time just to get a feel for the tension. That said, the tensioning tool is only meant to make sure that the belt isn't too tight. As mentioned in the video, if the belt is too tight it will put too much stress on the the water pump causing it to fail. So, once you have removed all the slack on the front of the belt by rotating the cam backwards, you just set the tension until you have the belt snug against the water pump but you can still turn it by hand. This will give you the proper tension. I hope that helps!

Thanks! will try this soon.

Good luck! Arnworx makes a gauge that isn't very expensive and I highly recommend using one until you get a feel for it. Keep in mind these gauges need to be calibrated from time to time. A car just came in today and the belt was a little too loose despite being checked with a factory tensioning tool. I could easily spin the pump and you don't want to be able to do that. There should be plenty of tension on it, but not so much that its impossible, otherwise you could be bending the shaft.

Nope... doesn't sound right. Pull the water pump off and measure the impeller. The 2.7 and 3.0 liter water pumps look exactly the same but have a larger impeller and won't fit the 2.5 liter blocks. I hope that helps!

thanks i will i'm also going to replacing the hardware instead of reusing them i don't if that help but worth a try. i bought my wp off ebay read the description for exact part number i needed but i'll take it off and measure it to be sure....this the pump i bought www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-For-Porsche-944-944S-924-924S-Metal-Pulley-Engine-Water-Pump/262399691565?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

That's a bummer... that's definitely a 2.7/3.0 liter pump. When you take it off you should be able to compare it to the one you took off and see the difference. If you try to bolt that one you will just end up bending the shaft and ruining it.

well that put a slow down in my rebuild for this weekend, guess that what i get for order an ebay water pump thanks edredas i knew something wasn't right glad i stop and check with you before i finish putting everything together

I have been there! I once got a 2.7/3.0L pump by mistake from a reputable website and it set me back big time. Not to mention I had to overnight a pump so it ended up costing me too. That said, you can find cheap pumps on ebay for that price but you just have to know what you're looking at. The sellers don't know what they have and its just a bummer. Here's a cheap one that is for a 2.5 L engine. www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-944-944s-924s-924s-Water-Pump-New-With-Metal-Pulley-1-YEAR-WARRANTY-944/281466239720?fits=Model%3A944&hash=item4188b1fae8:g:ObMAAOxy5jxScpzE:sc:USPSPriority!28150!US!-1&vxp=mtr

You cannot bend valves by turning the engine by hand. You are literally trained to do this step in school and is how you set the timing on many engines otherwise the marks won’t line up.

It is recommended to be changed every 40k miles or 64k km

@@edredas thanks bro