Possible Hydro Power Solutions for our Off Grid Cabin? A BIG THANKS TO YOU!! 

Find an engineer that would be interested in a "working" vacation. Have them get your power system working while vacationing at your place free in exchange for the work.

That 10" pipe reduced down to a 6" would power a turbine easy!

Its really a shame i cant come and do a survey. I am 100% sure that there is a small hydro electric system there. But some accurate measurements of head and flow over a period of time need to be taken in order to decide if a low head turbine would be worth while or is it would make more sense to get the wheel working better. The wheel will never be efficient though. Even if you make the best waterwheel in the world it will not come close to the performance of a turbine. If you could set up a water level or borrow a laser and find out exactly what the elevation is from the water level to the pipe that would be a very big help to anyone advising. At the 150gpm flow you stated you have at the moment you would get approximately 100w at your batteries if you had a low head turbine installed. It wont ever be a big system that is for sure, but there is power there to be had. But the system needs to be very efficient to really be worthwhile. From what i can see a low head turbine on that pipe would be the way to go. Most likely a small kaplan turbine, That way you can keep the wheel in place and it will just run as the overflow.

1. Load your wheel more with two generators. Increase the water supply. 2. Convert your low voltage DC at the generator to AC and transmit the AC 220 feet to the house. 3. The higher the voltage the less loss you will have. The less current thru the wire the less loss of power. 4. Calculate using ohm's law.

Even if you wind up not using the wheel to power the house, this is still one of the most valuable series of hydro power videos on RU-vid because of the discussion you got going. So much information in the videos and comments. Keep us posted if anything new happens with it.

AC all the way to the house is gonna be about the only way its gonna work over that distance.

Ok for the flume. a box end with a hole in the bottom straight above where you want the water to drop. It's the drop in height that generates the power not flow of stream on this type of wheel.

You should talk to engineer 775 on RU-vid this is what he does for a living

I’m just along for the ride, Dude. I know you will get it worked out. Can’t wait to see that video.

Box in the end of the flue

Great update video. 2 recommendations that I'd make. 1, use a shaped outflow end to force all the water in the flume downwards to make sure it all makes contact with the wheel, shaping the outflow so that it only allows through the maximum amount of water that the wheel can handle without overshot splash and 2. You need to keep water in the wheel for longer around the rotation so by adding strips angled upwards, it will catch more water from the flume and keep it in the wheel longer giving the wheel more rotational force. best of luck and look forward to seeing more videos showing the tweets that you make as you fine tune your wheel.

Focus on putting in some solar which will sort out power especially for when you have it rented, then you can be free to take your time getting the hydro right!

You need a float adjusted flume gate. When the flow is low, it needs to open more. When you have a high flow, it would close down on the flume gate. Adding a section as Trent Gay said would also help. You might lose more water to waste thru your spillway opening but you would gain overall. You could add a gate there but the rise in water level would have to open the gate which is harder to get right than one that closes. You could also use a flyball governor to control a gate but that also adds complexity and maintenance.

instead of trying to get your 20' from above the spring, what about below the dam? It does look like there is quite a bit of elevation change between the spring head and water level at the dam and below.

Can't wait to see you put some trout in the pond! Your slice of heaven!

I would definitely do both solar and water and sounds like chris guy is onto something

Glad to see this update. I know you can make it work. Don’t give up.

Most of this hydropower stuff goes right over my head but I just love watching all of your videos. Got my fingers crossed it works out for you.

Check into a bicycle 10-12-18 speed gear sprocket drive from your water wheel to get the rpms you may need .

It’s all so interesting. Fish in the pond is going to be awesome. Love y’all. ❤️

Hi guys. Just let me say, I never ever log in to youtube, but your video pushed me over the top! I have to toss in my 2 cents! I've read all the comments about the wheel, and let me just say, that wheel is absolutely perfect! It's got tons of potential power in that spin, I mean it's really obvious, the weighted momentum is going to give you a LOT of power, easily over 500 watts, likely over 1000. Maybe you could add another 6-10 inches to your water gate over the wheel, but really, i think it makes enough mechanical energy already. I can't stress enough how impressed I am with the energy coming from that wheel. Don't let anyone tell you it's the wheel's fault! All you have to do is change out that silly generator and install an AC generator instead (and slap a little bridge rectifier on the wall next to charge controller where it gets turned into DC power, then you only need 2 short heavy gauge wires to your controller from the rectifier..... AC power can travel much much further than DC without loses, and you can use regular household wiring that will take 120v and 15-20 amps without issue, which is what I assume you already have underground there. Use the same system that windmills use. That's why most of the wind gennies are AC, the wiring is usually very far from charging station. I promise, you will see massive increases. Your wheel is beautiful and the dam is crafty! Remember: 1. Swap that 24v generator for an AC version. 2. Run it to an AC/DC bridge rectifier in your shed on that wall with all your other stuff. (rectifiers are super simple and cheap) 3. Run heavy gauge cables from rectifier to charge controller. (even though it's only a foot or two, it's DC power now, use fat cables here !) 4. Enjoy your new free power. P.S. For gear ratios on pullies, use whatever gets you closest to 120 volts, or the max power/watts (volts x amps) rating for the wire between the wheel and the house. I would start with a smallest pully you can find for the generator and the biggest one you can find for the water wheel. If it's too much power and exceeds the wire's rating, control it by restricting the water flow. I am convinced you are only going to be limited by the wire you installed underground between the dam and the house....that wheel might make more power than the cable's rating!

Hang in there. You’ll get it worked out. Lot of smart dudes out there!

Don't give up brother what you have created is amazing and it would be awesome to finally see the thing running and producing power

Here's something. If you are generating 50v and 20a DC, and running 10gauge wire 220 feet, you are losing over 17% of your voltage so only 21volts is arriving at the house. If you doubled the number of wires so there are two conductors then you the loss is halved. There are a lot of "Voltage drop calculator"s online you can use. The option of converting DC to AC in a powerhouse by the generator is a good idea as the higher the voltage the lower the amps and the less loss there will be.

I have no idea on any of this stuff, so I think it is great that you have so many people helping you, good luck for sorting it out x

The turbin style kicks ass , from what I seen thats what I would invest in , your wheel works but its a good back up system....an yes one day I would luv to do what you are doing good luck man 😎✌🍺🍕

Love your off grid cabin and the spring,awesome!

Good to see people are helpful

👍 from the Netherlands 🇳🇱 in a hard Lockdown and curfew . thanks for the video . Stay Safe and Healthy !

Thanks for new videos. Loved the original videos and its great you are so honest about it all.

Good progress in your investigation... Keep motivated, there is always a way

I would convert to ac power at the wheel by using an old generator with a broken motor slap a belt on instead of the motor and run 110v to the house to charge the bank.

Hey there, here’s my top 3 from what I heard: 1- modify the flume and paddles 2- take everything you can get from Chris ! 3- do the solar

You are a very impressive inspiration person ....by trying to fix your generation station.....and by not giving up like most guys would.......Dont......great video content 👌.......you are going to feel so,so proud 👏 when you do figure it out

That’s great that Kris responded to you!

Go see Marty T he is in NZ has a solar & water generation system, uses an old washing machine for a water turbine 👍

Use a PMA that sends out three-phase AC power. Run that clear to wherever you have the charge controller and battery bank (maybe 8-2 with ground wire). Use a rectifier to convert it to DC and plug that into the charge controller.

God bless you. You will figure it out.

Remember, drop is from the surface of the water. If your pipe drops 10" and your pond is 10", you have your 20" drop.

i know nothing about hydro and cant use it around here but love watching people do it. great little video here.

OMG THIS IS PANFUL. Literally reinventing the wheel. IN a previous video I saw the 4" over flow ripping.... I just moaned.. passion can take a person on amazing journeys.... they are seldom efficient.

We love your off grid life! So creative 👏

Thats an amazing 😍 intertainment for your guests. Have a good luck! ❤

Michael, this would be a great little problem for a hydraulic/electrical engineer to solve. BTW, love the website layout and content!

Awesome 👏

charge a battery at the wheel and let it work the power up to the house were you can work the rest out with whats coming out as dc🙃 maybe 😁 fun and good stuff, thank you

Thank you for sharing I find in your project very interesting I do not think you have seen my personal suggestion. Once again I will convey some collected wisdom..

Love it

Splice may lose volts on way is done and moisture can get to copper wire.

Very interesting 🙌🏼

You could improve the wheels efficiency by shaping the buckets like and upside-down letter "L." this would catch the spout and hold the water to almost the bottom of rotation. I saw appears to be 3 phase AC power going to you house with rectifiers on the control panel - this is good.

Little bit of hydro and a good helping of solar and you're good to go! 👍

💚💚💚💚 bookmark/ notes : Ferris wheel 🎡 kiss- get a room/ shed ( 🚽 baseball kiss cam , wooden water wheel dc cord closer to battery 🪫 ) …..ect…..tbc….-g-b, bot

Been waiting for a good update on this project. Took me 3 months after to see it

Great comments! Like chain drive, putting dc close to water wheel, then run ac as voltage controllers could be set higher at source so to compensate for 220 foot line losses making 120/220 volts at house absolutely correct. Also add line ferrites to protect against possible emp surges, Water wheel work of art is turning. No need to change for efficiency! Waste a little water!!

This type of stuff as a architectural technologies is great when I want to design and detail houses I want to bring this type of ideas in housing estates and single build home...

I’ve been watching Chris Harbour for many years and what a wonderful resource for him to reach out and help you

220 feet away. I guessed 200' so I would have had to splice it as well! 😅 Also, you've done it now. You have 10,000 "helpers"!

Why am I not even worried that this won't work out😂 you seemed so disappointed last video but now you look excited! Love the content

Definitely need to run ac over that distance

Id say, your sloose box, extend it, and add it a front a forward and top wall, with a small gap at the bottom so the water will evacuate going down directly onto your wheel getting more force to move the wheel. Moving forward, verify your gearbox, for maximum rpms to your generator. Do not go chain, as it will rust. Lastly, you can always build up your dam. A possible flywheel, could improve the constance of the wheel spin. An easy addition could be an 18 wheeler rim. Or a train rail wheel. Once spinning, it will improve themomentum of the waterwheel.

To arrest the full water flow over the waterwheel, I would recommend placing a deflector at the front of your sluice; this would redirect all of the water on to the wheel.

I did small hydropower design (1 Mw to 40 Mw) for five years in the 1980s. Three years ago, I went off-grid on 55 acres of headwaters land and added a 300w microhydro to a new 2kw solar/10kWh LFP battery system. The PowerSpout (NZ) turgo hydro below a stockpond uses 120 gpm and 28 feet gross head. It perfectly complements the solar after I added 23kwh of batteries for $9000. I'm now helping a neighbor develop his 200kw hydro using an Energy Systems & Design (NB) Watter Buddy and 120 feet gross head through 800 feet of 2-inch pvc. My recommendations: 1) Do a solar/hydro system. They DO work on ephemeral streams. 2) Look very hard at application of the PowerSpout LH genset at your dam, using their online advanced calculators. 3) Compare that option with developing the drop from your spring to the farthest downhill point of your property using that 6" pipe and a PowerSpout TRG genset.

Nice work with everything you are doing so far. This is what I would recommend. Do not try and divert water to a location above where your spring is now. This could alter the way your spring is getting water. I would build the dam higher to store more water during the day and run the hydro at night time. You could install a small standalone system to open and close a gate valve for water flow only at night. I would install solar to run and charge the systems during the day. The DC would be fine to un underground as long as it is properly sized to compensate for the voltage drop. Will be following along to see how things go.

i think adding solar panels is a good idea and be the main provider of your power. i like the water wheel, when you calculate the potential power it should make and get a generator to match im sure it will work just fine and be useful especially at night. somebody said get rid of the charge controller ? they stop battery overcharging (which could set them on fire) and can dump excess power into water heating or heaters.

Waiting impatiently for updates on this project 😬😬

Glad to see your hard work, I'm from Indonesia in Southeast Asia and interested in making a simple power plant but because this is a tropical country during the rainy season I have problems with lots of water and tree leaves.

The belt will slip if you run it that loose. You need multi v-pully, with BX style belts, properly tensioned. And battery banks close to it. With AC inverter to house.

Ram pump idea will not work , it will only pump a tiny portion of of the water up hill.

This is good invention

Wow, kudos my friend. You're very brave with your build and pray strategy. I love it. As you have discovered, what you started is a journey. Now for a build like this one, your initial results are absolutely normal, anything else would of been a miracle. But you did make a huge mistake, and I do believe you realized it. Your biggest mistake was that you did seem to accept defeat in your last video. If you ask me you might have stumbled across the best marketing idea I have seen on RU-vid in a long time. When you said in this video that it was strange that most people listen to videos to learn things and in this case your viewers are teaching you. I garentie that if you make this the theme of your RU-vid channel and you do it strategically and well you are going to annihilate the RU-vid algorithm. The viewers that follow you could become so invested in your success they would become what we call superfans and you would have engagement tru the roof. I would suggest the book ( superfans by pat flynn). Now I'm the complete opposite of you, I dabble in everything, real estate, homesteading, new energies, marketing, etc.. etc.. I learn everything and do nothing. But I really do think you should talk to a really good marketer about this reverse learning RU-vid channel idea, I think this could be a gold mine, if done right. I will definitely be following you, I'm really curious where you go from here. Don't hesitate to reach out. You're a very interesting fellow.

The water isn't hitting too soon, before center is okay, like firing your spark plugs before TDC. Momentum figures into the equation.

Just flip the wheel 180 , cut the flume at the wheel end and incline all the flume to reach the bottom of the wheel at the concrete edge to get higher down flow and more power , hope that would works, and try a treadmill motor as it gives higher voltage with lower rpms ,all the best.

Hi great to see you are learning to trouble shoot your power challenge, and awesome to see you have connected with Kris, and I see Joe Malovich is replying to your issue. Both of these guys have done a lot to understand the nuances of generating power from small water sources. My two cents come from being trained Telecommunications rigger, so after years on the road I have done a lot of fault finding in my time. Here is the basic process. 1. Do not test the entire system start with each component individually first and add on a new item only after the previous items in the run are producing know outputs. Start at from one end and work logically to the other, do not jump about. In this case that should be your raw power source the water wheel. You need a certain amount of mechanical power and torque from that (Kris and Joe will have great advice on what tests you can do to establish the power of your wheel, and possibly enhancements to improve it). Next I would verify your DC motor output at the water wheel location. Spin that without the cable to the house connected, use a drill or petrol engine to spin it up to recommend rotation, and measure the voltages and Amps it is producing (that will tell you its fine and if its producing what the manufacture states it will - There should be a datasheet available online that states what these number are). First freewheeling (no load) then with a load (anything that you can wire in that will eat the power it produces, Again refer to Joe and Kris re this as they have done a lot of this type of testing) Next I would look at your pulleys and gearing at the water wheel, changing those if necessary to match your Wheel torque and DC motor requirements (including load), don't add in a new system like chains until you know belt slippage is an issue (As in my opinion what you need between the water wheel and DC motor is a constant or acceptable torque to DC output). Only once you have the water wheel end working and producing a known output would I move to the next step which is adding in your cable run to the house. 2 Add in one item at a time and recheck your outputs (you'll have two, DC motor under load, and DC motor with no load ), these should be a constant and if they are not you'll know if each newly added item causes a loss. And whether that loss is acceptable or not for you charge controller to accept (as that will have known values of input you need to produce, again read the documentation to get these numbers). For example and issue with your cable. if you have good power at the wheel end and then you connect 200 meters of wire, and the power output drops through the floor. Then you have two options, up the size of you cable gauge to reduce power loss over distance, or move your charge controller and batteries closer to your water wheel (which reduces the distance from source to use). Test either side of the splice in the cable run, as each joint or addition connection in a run will add in a loss, how big of a loss depends on the joint and gauge of the components used, combined with power being transferred via the run. Only after you have good and expected power output at the house would I start adding in the Charge controller and other components. The principal is that if your system is outputting an expected value and then you add in a new item to the run and your output drops through the floor, then the issue is with the new item. 3. Don't guess, only once you understand where your issue is, is when you can start making decision of how to fix it. 4. keep it simple stupid. reduce the complexity of your system, and only add in new advanced features that are matched appropriately to your requirements. Over complicating a system before you understand it is the fastest way to cause yourself issues. Eg a simple circuit is a 9v battery and a bulb, add in a switch only after you confirm the light turns on when the bulb is directly pressed on the battery, then a dimmer only once a switch works, etc.... In my view you need to establish the following to understand if you have sized your system correctly, 1. T power at source (how much water pressure do I have at the dam). 2. The torque/power of the waterwheel underload, The gearing (what reductions do I need to make to match the Wheel power I have to the motor RPM I need with the motor under load). What is the power loss of the cable run (So how much power do I need to produce to over come that, or is a short run better eg move your batteries), what is the correct components I need to charge the battery bank I have sized. Each of these questions is simple maths. Solve each in turn and you will overcome your challenge. I look forward to watching you battle with this issue and will celebrate with you when you conquer it.

I like the passion , you are on the right track. Just reduce the size of the turbine and increase the water pressure to attain higher velocity.

For the Water Splash at high flow - You can build a cage around the front to direct the water where you need it. The cage will direct all the water into the wheel, increasing the available power. Generators put out AC - Alternators, use a rectifier to give "pulsing AC".

PSSS you can also add more charge controller as well as strings of batteries. you could even add more gen's to you water wheel. This system is expandable to what ever you want it " as far as output AC voltage and current. Chit you could sale power to neighbors lol . Thanks for letting me post information to you site !

Congratulations on your project and popularity of your videos! I'm working on my own off-grid ranch with a Pelton wheel and solar panels. You need to control the water flow by restricting the output with a variable flume gate to a desired amount, water velocity by leveling the flume and extending the flume just past the center of the wheel; This way you can optimize your available power. You can calculate your approximate available power with this formula I came up with (someone else may suggest a better one); GPM × Drop x 0.433 /2.298474 Where GPM = Gallons per minute and Drop = flume height in feet. This is at 100% efficiency so you have to take into account some power loses. V-Belts are very inefficient on power transfer and conversion due to the required tension, it's best to used keyed belts, chains or gear drive. Direct drive being the best but you won't get the required RPM out of the wheel. This is not as critical because of the low power we're working with here but the 10 gauge wire you're using is too thin for that distance, it's best like others have suggested to build a local building to keep the distance between the PMG to MPPT as short as possible or run a much higher voltage at the PMG but that makes it dangerous. Solar panels would complement the installation nicely and are not very expensive. You can get 100 watts out of a single panel which by my guess; you will require at least 50 gallons per minute of water flow to get close to that. The big advantage of hydro is that it's 24/7 unlike solar which is limited by the amount and angle of sun-light available. I enjoy watching your work, thanks for sharing and doing a great job with your videos.

Get a copy of “Water Wheels, or Hydraulic Motors” by Bresse. It is available on Amazon. It is the only real text on how to design water wheels. Other give you rules of thumb and tell you what works for the authors. This is an actual engineering text book from teh 1850s, before electricity and steam came in to vogue, which was translated from French by Professors at West Point, when teh mission of the Army Corps of Engineers was to capitalize on the water power resources of the United States to promote industry. First in your situation I would have designed an undershot water wheel with the water coming in at the loser third point of the wheel, they are the most efficient with the least flow. the overshot wheel takes little advantage of the momentum of the water, and is instead almost entirely reliant on the mass of the water to deliver torque. On you current wheel, I recommend lengthening the mill race and constructing a nozzle on the end of it to direct the water down and into the vanes. The 12/3 is probably half the size of wire you should be running unless you have stepped up the voltage to 48-volts or more.

Looked like the Ozarks, hello neighbor! Looks good from our Off-Grid Homestead to your.

I would put magnets around the wheel, and three could beside it, similar to Robert Murray smith's wind turbine,

I suspect the biggest issue is the long run with low voltage over relatively small wire causing too much voltage drop. Higher voltage requires less current for the same amount of wattage whether AC or DC.

Oh yea solar and that charge controller will be really nice for ya! I'm hopeful to see a solar install, i really think that hill is great!

Yes on the solar system "small" plus a wind turbine of some kind on the hill "already running wires " and you will be covered until something breaks down.

Don''t give up.... this WILL work once you work it out.

You guys have done a wonderful work..I love the water wheel you have made.. it's easy to fix it .. like I see it i think he can make you 150/400watt 1) you need to get a AC 48v 600/1000w generator from thermodyne it's not expensive and it's a good company for what you need. 2) you need a rectifier it's very cheap to corvette the AC to dc before and next to the charge controller (like that you will not lose power) Try to get 40/45v with low water and max with rain 48/55v.. the mppt charge controller need 2times the voltage of the battery to do nice work.. I don't think that you need brake and all those components that you have.. the mppt will stop giving power to the battery when it's full.but it's up to you...I think this kit was for wind turbine. You don't need to run fast the wheel..you must run it slow.. the speed that you need you will give it with gears like you have it .. More water on the wheel will give you more Amp.. Speed will give you volt .. Amp x volt = watts If you like to improve you water wheel with out fixing anything on it...I think you can do 1 more next to it and do them 2 and if you can make it more fat to get more water it will be better.. you can connect them to the same shaft .. With the pipe that you have yea you can run a water turbine(you need to have filter for the water and you must clean it and check it) it's not so easy like the water wheel that you don't need to do anything :). I hope my comment help you a bit.

For starters, test with a volt meter the output at the water wheel and then at the cabin. See if the generator is working within spec, and if so then compare the voltage incoming at the cabin to your components, see if the voltage drop is too much for your equipment and if so, upgrade wire size significantly. From the sound of it you have significant voltage drop. I have a similar set-up only I use a wind mill. If your voltage drops too much it's essentially useless at the cabin, as it cannot power the equipment.

In a previous life, I was an Avionics Tech in the Navy. One way to visualize AC vs DC is that in DC, the current pushes through the inside of the wire, so the wire needs to be larger. Imagine the wire as a pipe with water in it. The water flow is the current, and the pressure is the voltage. The larger the pipe, you can push a larger flow with less pressure. So, in a wire, the larger the wire, the more current it can allow to flow with less voltage. In AC, the current flows around the outside of the wire, so you can get away with smaller wires.

Like it how it is

You could make a casing around the wheel. Contain the water so it moves the wheel more. Also have the flume be extendable so you can adjust it for high and low flow.

A: How much head is there between your spring and your potential pond site? That extra head could pay off. B: An alternator type generator should be more efficient, as the DC generator configuration has more contact surfaces which means you lose energy to friction. C: If you use a generator that puts out higher voltage AC, definitely run the power to your cabin as the high voltage AC and put your rectifier right by your charge controller. The lower your voltage, the higher the amperage you need to transmit a given number of watts. High amps require thicker (more expensive) wire, and lose more energy to heat. That's why commercial grid power is taken long distances at high voltages, then stepped down to some still large voltage for local transmission, and then stepped down again before it enters the home.

I’m an engineer. So, yes, go AC to as close to your equipment in the house as possible before your rectifier. Higher voltages will allow you to use smaller wiring. Most car alternators have the rectifier built-in, but some can be modified. Ask an old-timer at a local alternator rebuild shop. You’ll also need DC source to excite it or use a permanent magnet alternator. There is an 2KW alternator on Amazon, but I’m not sure of the torque required in your application . (Ista Breeze 2 KW 48V Permanent Magnet Generator, Savonius, Wind Generator, Wind Power (2 KW 48V Permanent)) And...consider a deflector above the output to help keep the water on the wheel during high water flow. It appeared to overshoot it.

I run wind mills that I billeted using modified mg alternators to regulate battery voltage i use a dump loader voltage regulator sending my extra power to a water heater that converted to 12 volt I put 12 volt element in my wind mills are also hocked directly to my battery

If you don't want to upgrade to chain, use toothed timing belts and pulleys. To do away with potential slipping of the belts.

For the flume use a pipe or round ac duct with an elbow on the end to direct the water down.

that PMG is providing 3 phase AC to the control panel you bought from them and there is a rectifier on it at the house that converts it to DC at the charge controller. sorry I am coming into all of this late but yea I wanting to see it work as well

WOW that is alot of stuff. Really all you need is something to prevent over charge, over heating and over discharge. Battle Born batteries already have that built in. You might need a regulator just before hook up to the batteries. Charge controller.

I think it could be about 8" wider within those pilings.

I’d love to come and check it out. Fantastic lay out. I’m an HVAC guru and may be able to help. I’m in St. Peter’s Mo. Maybe 4 hrs away. I would never give up on that wheel. There’s something we are missing. I’d check the continuity of the 230 foot wires AND ohm each to ground to check the splice. Also duct the water so it doesn’t overshoot the wheel. Sheet metal or something to the like. Love your plan .

I would definitely go for a solar array that would certainly charge your batteries. I do not have a water source so I have 18 bifacial panels and they keep my 16.kWh batteries charged from February to mid November after that they struggle to fill the battery pack. I will be adding a further 6 panels as that’s all the space I have Have a watch of RU-vidr Engineer 775 Great videos 👍🏼👍🏼