This week we design and build a super simple power drawbar for the mini mill. 3D model available on the website. Webpage: www.physanon.com/ Patreon page: / physicsanonymous Music: Deer Dance by Animal Kingdom Artlist.io
There's no no shame in researching your problem. Don't reinvent the wheel. Get shit done. You can refine your design later, if it seems like it's going to work. Quick and dirty.
I tend to agree, in the sector I'm in, SolidWorks is the industry standard for engineering design. Our company is a large manufacturer of bespoke material handling equipment from multi direction forklift trucks to container shuttles, and our engineering department has been using SW from the very beginning.
I love the way you guys just jump in and go for it. Congratulation and keep going. A suggestion: a 12 point socket of the proper size will drop right down onto a square nut, find it in 3/8 drive and you will have an instant fix that requires no welding.
An alternative method to making a 3/8's to 3/8's adapter is to take two 3/8's drive 9/16 sockets and throw a cut down chunk of allen key in between them, no welding required but should you weld it you will have better alignment and more "meat" holding it together Also the sockets you threw on the lathe are perfect for what you did there. Impact sockets are designed to be relatively soft but have more metal so they are strong. They are soft so they deform instead of shatter, which could be dangerous. Its the chrome sockets that are hardened so they last longer and don't wear out quick. Really enjoyed watching, its cool to see someone approach problems like you guys. Your craftsmanship is amazing
Nothing beats the versatility of a lathe and mill. Well done on the restoration of that lathe, efforts well worth spent. Enjoy those machines. Remember NO compressed air around the lathe.
Plumbers tape?!?! Surely you mean duct tape! And instead of a hunk of plywood, just use a multi-layer wad of more duct tape. Maybe embed some cigarette butts in the wad if you need more thickness. 😝
I’ve seen all the videos using pneumatic cylinders and Bellevue washers, brackets, hydraulic boosters but this method is right in line with the K.I.S.S. Design criteria. Now granted, I don’t plan to use the Tormach tool holders. This is inline with my hobby machine parameters. Thanks for the video and faith in simplicity.
Great project. A little over kill on the implementation. Not everyone has a 3D printer. To simplify, cut off both square ends with an angle grinder, alignment for welding is simple. Use a 1 mm stainless steel plate to mount the wrench via the four screws on the end of the tool. It would be great if the tool could accept the stainless steel plate between the back and the body (perhaps requiring some gasket sealer?). Otherwise four longer bolts/capscrews and four small spacers. Mount the plate to the cover as required. You have provided food for thought on implementation for my mill. 🙂
Very Nice!!! Thanks for sharing. Wish my PM Mill had that type of drawbar. I have to give mine a sturdy whack. I did machine a 6 spline wrench that fits my spindle through which helps get both hands more or less on the same plane which helps with loosening or tightening the drawbar. Gary 75-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in Northwest Arkansas.
I REALLY like this project!😀, i was wondering if this could also be made with a accu drill, instead of the air driven motor, and with some kind of clutch to engage and disengage rge drawbar....?, i will think about it!
be cautious of hardened chips on your machine ways, they can do some damage, maybe make a few leather apron way covers for the future, magnets and leather and a little steel/alum and epoxy works great
I bet the printed part will last forever. One thing that I would do it make something to support the weight of the air hose so it's not constantly straining the impact gun.
I agree, on both counts. However, should the 3D printed part not prove sturdy enough..... makezine.com/projects/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/metal-casting-with-your-3d-printer/ Specifically the section on "Lost-PLA Casting Of Aluminum''. Works fine with ABS, too, but burning out the ABS former prior to casting really stinks. May not be as toxic as it smells but I wouldn't bet on it. Best done outside and as far from any potential complainers as possible. There are quite a few vids on RU-vid showing the process in detail.
If you have a failure on your socket try MMC 5553A54 3/8 square to 3/8 8 point. Been using one on my tormach for a year. Works great and no machining or welding to make.
Dude... .. when are you guys ever going to finish the surface grinder/lathe grinding project??? It's the reason I subscribed, and I'm quickly losing hope here. A lot of people would like to see how it turns out. Throw us a decent bone please.
Wow I really admire your Fusion360 skills. That part is a thing of beauty!! If you need to make it stronger you can alway use carbon fibre reinforced nylon like NylonX or some similar product.
Wow Nice work looks great! I usually grind through the hard part, or stock up on carbides. and keep a carbide specifically for roughing through hard stuff.
The only problem I see is that the nut runner is engaged all the time, and will wear out. You can make it to slide into the spindle, that way it will be only in contact with the drawbar when it needs to
I wanted to build this, so I ordered the impact driver and found the perfect socket adapter for my PM-25mv. Both are available on Amazon. Search there for Grey Pneumatic 1010FP 3/8" drive x 5/16" square socket. My PM25 must have a different drawbar, because it is 5/16", NOT 3/8". Check yours to be sure. You can order the 1012FP for 3/8" if you have that size or 1011FP for 11/32". It will not be as long as the welded up one he made, so it will not clear the motor housing facing forward. As for that detail and the printed part, doesn't matter, just pick it up, use it, then put it down. There is no need for the printed part at all. My dial is set at #6@100 PSI. END THE MADNESS AND GO BUY ONE OF THESE THINGS! This should be included with every PM-25.
I went with the 7/16 because the drawbar square drive is actually 10mm where as 3/8 square only comes to 9.525mm. That's why the drawbar square is tight on the 3/8 drive socket. I would have gone with a 10mm 8 or 12 point but I didn't have one. :P
Maybe you should use a rubber claw coupling (or somthing similar, that is able to compensate the minimal axis offsets) between the two sockets, otherwise there are a lot of indefinite stresses in the material.
What about when you run the machine it will spin the impact driver you needed to put it on springs and have it on a liner Er system so it comes down to engage the nut and when you let go it clears the lock nut so the machining runs not engaged if that makes sense
I'm thinking about making my own conversion, looks like the pm30 is the most capable for the money? Also! You should do a how to make an automatic tool changer for it next!!
A 3/8" drive 8- or 12- point impact socket would've saved you the trouble of welding... But altogether well done. Do you disengage the impact gun every time you use the mill, or do you just let the mill spin it? I've been thinking of doing this to my Sieg mill, and I don't necessarily see why you'd have to disengage it. You could always wire in an electric solenoid to cut the air supply when the spindle is turning, as an added safety measure.
I think you know most everything there is to know about 3D-printing. It is going to hold up to those limited forces, and you know that, don’t let the sceptics create any doubt, just because it’s plastic.
When I saw your double adapter Idea I thought maybe one of those gimmicky fits all sockets with the spring loaded pins inside. That way you would not have to align the impact when you wanted to remove the draw bar. Not really an issue on your bench top mill, but on a taller mill that the draw bar is above your head it would make it so you would not have to align it by feel.
Small efficiency improvement.. Get a portable air tank to connect to and mount it to the side of the mill so then you won't have the hose running to the mill but only to refill the tank.
Carbide inserts work pretty well on hardened steel at slow speeds. The only reason to soften the steel would be if you had to use HSS tooling like a drill or if you needed to bend it.
what happens when the mill is running and the drawbar is spinning..is the air tool free running when in neutral as it always looks engaged onto the nut.
Hi, i am really impressed on how you did the modeling in Fusion 360.......the way you get the picture og the bodie into the three planes.....i am using Onshape, does anybody know if i csn do the same in Onshape?
ABS is very easy to solvent weld. You can dunk the whole part in acetone and that will better fuse the layers together. I've sprayed parts with brake cleaner to achieve a similar effect if you dont have a bucket of solvent around.
Just curious ...since you needed a 3/8-3/8 female how come you didn't just weld 2 3/8 sockets together?...you have a lathe cut the socket part off face and chamfer then weld?..admittedly it would be difficult to cut through the chrome llating but not impossible
The relationship between the low speed and high speed pulley's will change the centerline of your mounting fairly significantly, did you try both settings?
My experience with those R-8 threads when you are using the air impact it can wear the threads and i would go with the Bell-ville Washers and air cylinder with the 3/4 R-8 tool holder then just use 3/4 inch shaft tool holders for different size shank cutter. That way i can do change overs with out setting tool depth every time.
That’s a really great setup guys! Plus your lathe and carbide insert ate through those socket adapters like they were nothing :) ... also, did a ball bearing go flying? ;p
They actually do make 3\8 female to female adapters. Search "timing wrench" or "distributor wrench" there not expensive, under $10, and they come with the adapter you ended up making.
