Power supply: From yuk to sweet RD6006/RD6006-W 

Brilliant enough to modify the old unit to put out max power, but not quite brilliant enough to immediately understand that you can't get out the full voltage that was put into a buck converter. Most would have edited that part out... you are an honorable man! ;-)

got the 6018 version my self love it i use it with a rewound microwave transformer

It is a buck converter so you get a 1v difference between input and output just as you figured out later.

I hate how good you are at with soldering! I have two of these on order... looks like you have an awesome channel and another subscriber. 😁👍

Great modification! Well done.

The problem you highlighted with current regulation by blowing up the LED is common with many power supplies, not just cheap ones. It is nothing to do with a slowly acting regulation circuit but all about a design shortcut. It is common for a significant sized capacitor to be across the output and outside of the regulation loop because it is a simple way to lower the output noise and achieve good stability. The output capacitance is not a problem in constant voltage mode but as you clearly demonstrated can destroy things in constant current mode. Setting the power supply to 60 volts on the output and current limit to say 20 mA then connecting the LED dumps energy from the capacitor straight onto the LED. Depending on the capacitor's ESR this could be a spike of several amps. It doesn't matter how fast the power supply regulation loop is because the offending capacitor is usually outside of the regulation loop. For a power supply to be designed with good behaviour as a constant current source the capacitance that is outside the regulation loop needs to be minimised. The current spike is usually also invisible to the power supply's current measurement because the measurement point is before the capacitor.

I had allready ordered the RD6006 but now I’m even more glad I did. Who would have thought those cheap bench power supplies are regulated from the primary side? Well, you get what you pay for I suppose. Thanks for the video!

Very clever modification! I'm glad you like it since I ordered mine this weekend from Banggood for even $10 less. Great video.

Nice job liked it

Recently i got tempted to buy this and youtube recommeded me your video. Making me wanna buy it even more. You have many informative videos, btw. I guess i'll check all out tonight. Keep up the good work!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Setting it to 5A would not put a lot of load on the 60V side, because current increases at the output since the voltage is low. So you should be able to get the full 6A without a problem on low voltages. However close to 60 volts, getting 5A would max out the board inside.

GOOD PROJECT MAN!

I had seen that power supply thing and was thinking it would be tiny or something but thats cool

Show off, I could never figure that out. Nice video

You should try hooking up a Oscilloscope to the output when you current limit the output, sets voltage to 15V and manually plugs in the LED. Could be interesting to see how fast it drops down the voltage

It's pretty cool how he does this stuff it's very interesting

Galway through my second video and I have subscribed. Love the channel.

Great upgrade

I have two Power Designs triple output power supplies from the 1980's that do a great job - and they were cheap!

Thanks for the good explanation

This video is perfect. I have the exact same ps except the 30 volt version. I agree with you on the current discharge problem when you hook up anything like you did with an led. I found the Riden ps on the internet and ended up buying one. Now just waiting on it to arrive. Pretty excited especially after seeing your video because it looks like it does exactly what I was hoping it would do. Thanks for great video.

FYI If anyone interested, you can find my custom firmware for RD6006. If you have any ideas, wishes, what to change or add in to the firmware, or found bugs, just let me know. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ruideng-riden-rd6006-dc-power-supply/225/ monitor.net.ru/forum/threads/651114/page-6

I can understand that the new buck module would ramp the voltage and current when switching the output on and off... But WOW I'm really surprised it still wouldn't blow the LED when disconnecting/reconnecting the leads. I guess that means there's no filter caps on the output, but does that cause it to have poor ripple at higher loads?

Very interesting, thank you.

Good stuff...raise de imput to 65 input!

I suspect the voltage and current isn’t actually ramping over seconds, as that would have blown the LED. Instead, I suspect the regulation is done in analog, to give fast response, and that the output display just uses a really long averaging, causing the ramping appearance. It’d be interesting to repeat the LED test with the output hooked up to an oscilloscope.

The second LED test should better be made with supply voltage settled to a target value before connecting to the LED. This way if the supply has high value capacitors can fry the LED as would in the first test. High quality regulated supplies takes more engineering resource to develop necessary to reduce internal output capacitance, which also use more expensive part to make. Engineers new to this field only know to add more capacitance to reduce problems like noise and ripple not aware that low output capacitance supply are quite difficult to design and develop.

The Ruideng Stuff is all good, got some products of them, but the new one for me is expensive ...The PC Software and the Android Version works flawlessly for me on DPS5015 & UM24C for WiFi and also the Serial Connection on the DPS5015

To see current limiting, don't trust that graph.. let's see that on a scope with the output set to 55v (I wager the LED blows...)

good stuff, thank you!

Been looking to buy one of these very much look forward to your PC or android review of the Wi-Fi software its uses put it through its test

Loved it

The official manufacturers store is on AliExpress. Search RD official and you’ll find it. They offer support, no matter where you bought their product.

Any idea why setting a 20mA CC results in 14mA (even with Voltage set point way up?) Is it only 0.01mA accuracy (maybe)? I've got this coming, and *will* replace the GREEN battery charging terminal with some other color (hopefully one of my yellow binding post knobs will work) and I'm going to have to drill and tie a Mains Earth true GREEN post to be able to reference the supplies to for +/- supply. Anyway, excited for mine to come in...

the measurement differences between the display and meter maybe that you have to calibrate the power supply.

super nice - I am going to to the same with my 30V/10A shitty power supply ;-)

thanks for this video

Can you please describe in more detail how you figured out what value of resistance to solder on insted of front panel? I have similar power supply and the board does not have any markings beside connector when i measure resistance of bottom pins it does not change when i turn the knobs.

No LEDs were harmed in the making of this video...

your new fan orientation seems wrong, its pulling air inside, instead of pushing hot air out of the enclosure which is the right way to do it.

Nice mod :-D Wow that's heaps better than the half baked ps605. I'm guessing it's a variable buck regulator so it should not get too warm :-) If the switchmode goes poof then its easy to replace. I did hear some odd fizzles on your audio, hopefully it's not the 60v supply that's moaning, you could set it to 51v if it is.

@ jeffescortlx is there a way to switch between constant current or constant voltage modes? It seems to do so automatically.

But why you are testing diode with old power supply set to 37V 60mA and new one with 15V 20mA set? This is not a good comparison. Maybe with same settings it will also burn this diode.

You need 65V on input!!

How to have precise readings on voltage? Should the resistors be different? Congratulations, I want to do it also ;)

50 freaking buck :-O you nuts?

Isn't it overkill to use the full board of the power supply fixed in 60V? Wouldn't a normal transformer just be enough? Thanks for the video, great job!

Jeff, do you do this stuff full-time for a living? I'm looking to get out of my field of work and would love to work from home lol. Probably not likely, but I'm still curious. Thanks

Very very very cool!!!. How much was the new front panel???

I have the kps3010d which looks identical apart from the case colour. It’s 30v 10a output. How easy would it be to do the mod on that one? Would you be able to give me some advice for resistor values? I can send board pics if needs be.

Nice!

60ma through a red LED? OMG, no wonder you blew it, lol

ahhhh, i thought you were learnelectronics

👍

why does a powersupply need wifi?

Why not put in the extra buck and a half and go Wifi??

You need minimum 2-3V headroom to allow for the situations when at 60V usage you start drawing some serious current. 1 volt headroom is .... (not enough). I had the RD6006-W for a brief week just to try it out and for accuracy testing purpose but for my case didn't quite cut it. When loaded with a heavy load say from.....3A up @ 30-to-55V the measured voltage (measured with a brand new and high accuracy Fluke 289) at the output terminals is a lot lower (by a fairly big margin 0.3-to-0.8V) than the value shown on the LCD screen. Than means that the current sensing shunt implementation within the PSU circuitry is not very well made and also the voltage reference used is is not very precise and that also contribute to the above voltage error. However, is still a very good value for the money.

I like what you did! however, if you take the cost of 80$CAD for that frontend and another 40$CAD for the original power supply, one is better off just buying used but better brand name power supply in the first place. But i do get the need to tinker with cheap china crap and try to get it working better than it originally did.

Hey man is there any way I can contact you and ship you my cluster for repair?

Can I send you a 2001Chevy express 1500 cluster to be repaired? Mileage says error.

WTF? Ruideng Answer for NOT WORKING Pc Software connection trough WiFi! "Problem is NOT WORKING on Pc Software in WiFi connection!-- this is your only problem ? our products only support wifi for phone App, not PC software .. " Hangzhou Ruideng Technology Co., Ltd 2/F, Block B, Building 1, No. 2628, Yuhangtang Road, Cangqian Sub-district,Yuhang District, Hangzhou City,Zhejiang Province, China

Lag not leg 🙄

I see that you work on all kinds of things I've got a I don't know 10 year old Mac Daddy Dell computer spend a boat load of money on and the motherboard got hit with a surge I believe through the cable in Port from the cable company ethernet on mother board wasn't sure if that's something you could put wood play with really not usable tried some aftermarket boards through a tech to my wife's company still isn't working right don't want to waste money or take a chance sending it off somewhere or dropping it off somewhere it's crazy out there

Great video Jeff. Have you Watched Dave's video on the same unit? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0qjLx_HsKUQ.html

Too expensive.

Испортил хорошую вещь, (