I have had one of these switches for years and have been so intimidated by it that it sat in my shop unused. This is the first and only video that I have found that taught me everything I needed to know to wire it. What's even better is that I took the opportunity to wire it to an upgraded motor so my shop life just got exponentially better. Thank you!
Bought a brand new Craftsman 14" bandsaw 8 years ago in anticipation of using it in retirement. Now that I am retired, I tried to turn it on for the first time and nothing happened. Called Sears and I had to wait 5 days for a technician to come to the house. On the morning of his arrival, he called me to get more info. Bottom line was that he only repaired gas operated saws. Thus, the bandsaw sat unused. I discovered your video while trying to resolve the issue. In doing so, I realized that the switch on my bandsaw was wired incorrectly. Your video clearly indicated the correct wiring. I made the correction and the bandsaw is now working. Hats off to you for making the video and for explaining it so well! I now know why Sears went out of business!
Glad to hear you got it working. Back in the "DAY", Craftsman was a very good name and high quality. It is a shame that Sears let it get so cheap and poor quality.
Outstanding walk through. You are a good teacher. Thank you for doing this. You should do more of these on subjects like cleaning/repairing shop tool motors, dealing with problematic cordless batteries, and other common workshop electrical issues. Cheers!
practical walk-through with helpful tips like what to get at the store and demonstration of how things fit and don't fit - Of the 15 or so types of electrical boxes at most home-improvement stores, Roger demonstrates two good choices and shows us why - appreciate the tip on sourcing longer 6/32 machine screws which at the store - $1 spent on screws and a second trip to the store saved!
Excellent, practical and easy to follow- Thank you. I really enjoyed watching you struggle through various sections of your tutorial- I didn't feel so inept as my 10 thumbs went to work on my own switch.
I had forgotten about the imprinted Line & Load sides on the switch. Mine was apart for a month and in my elder age, I had forgotten to snap a picture, before disassembling. Excellent presentation. Thanks, Roger.
Thanks, Roger. I was looking to see what everyone was using for a mounting box. Your solution looks like the best option. I also was glad to get the machine screw sizes.
Good Video Roger! Very will explained. I have the same switch and already bought the wrong box at HD. I will return the box and get the one you suggest. Thank you.
Thank you for your RU-vid video on how to install a paddle switch. Mine came with no instructions, and your RU-vid video was of great help in installing my paddle switch on my table saw.
This had Me lol coz I bought 7 of these switches to over ride oem switches an mounted all at hip/ leg level so could have hands free kill switches..and also ran it to what the hay?? I'm a bell box nut I like the bell boxes for dust explosion proof . Took some looking but was able to find deeper bell boxes an used standard rain tight gasket.. But what did the manufacture think we were going to do with a baby Short screw? But I like your work around an a 4by4 is much nicer to work in for room an easier to come by... But I absolutely love the paddle switches when your holding your work and need to shut the saw off. Hands free kill switch..Great job explaining proper wiring!
The switch I got had the push on connectors for the terminals. So you definitely need the deeper box to connect them as they stick straight out the back! A 3 inch deep box needed. I think I would have preferred the one you have but can get it done!
Very helpful video Rodger! Thank you for making it. Is this the way to wire up the switch for both 120V/230V? And is 16 gauge wire the correct size for wiring it for 230V? I have to wire it the 230V way. Thank you!
Roger -- good video -- My question is --- I have a 5HP 3PH 208 Table Saw Motor -- I will be using a VFD to be able to run the saw on 1PH 220 V. I would like to wire up a paddle switch via the remote control function of the VFD. What I am wondering is this Powertec 71007 able to handle the 5HP motor 12.6 Amps when I see it is rated for 3HP?
Assuming the load would not exceed the rating of the switch, you would parallel the connection to your vac receptacle on the switch. there is also an inline switch made that will auto turn on your vac when the tool starts.
@@rogersshop Thanks for your quick response. I understand the parallel connection but I'd prefer to plug in the shop vac rather then permanently wire it to the paddle switch. Can you recommend an inline switch compatible with the 71007?
Roger this was explained so well but my old rockwell jointer is wired so messed up I'm still trying to make sense of it. In theory my plug wire=line side and the load= wires going to the motor? Am I on the right track?
Yes. Load side of switch goes to the tool (or motor in your case). "Line" side is the power source. In this case, the cord you plug into the outlet for power.
Roger, great video. One question: I’m going to use this to power a router on a cnc. The cnc table is wood, not metal so I wonder if I should ground to the box as shown or something else. Is it ever a good idea to just ground the load and line wires together and not to the mounting box in my example? Thanks.
Always ground a metal box and keep it separate from the neutral. Some people tie the neutral and ground together and that is dangerous. The neutral-ground bond should be at the service entrance only, never downstream.
Thank you so much for this video!! What was that tool you used to crimp on those ends called? I'm always crimping on those stupid things with my set of Linemans, but if that works better, maybe I can save up and get one... Thanks again, awesome video, new subscriber!
This was a 'demo' on how to wire one of these switches using some scrap cord as an example. As for mounting the box containing the switch, every situation is different and usually requires some type of custom bracket or mount. On my table saw, the front angle iron rail was drilled and tapped to mount the box.
Roger, great video and thanks for keeping it simple for us novices. Question, would one be able to use the switch to control power to multiple tools plugged in to a surge protector? i.e. have the load line going to an outlet, in which a power strip/surge protector is plugged into.
Useful. Thanks. Seems like every posh button switch in the country is one of these with or without the paddle. eBay has identical switches priced all the way from $10 to more than $50.
To fit my 20" Jet drill press I had to make an adapter. The mounting holes in the switch are fine. The problem is the head casting has a recessed, ragged and oversize opening for the switch. The adapter is roughly 3/16" oversize all around. I made mine out of 1/4" thick sheet plastic but baltic birch or Formica would be ok, too,
Sometimes I'm a dumbass. I'm an electrician (not industrial, obviously) and at first I thought this was a momentary switch. Then I couldn't get the damn thing to work even though I wired it correctly. WTF?!?! It turns out I wasn't pushing the start button hard enough. LOL.
I bought a powertec 71006 similar switch , iam doing something similar with a portaband saw made a stand for it now I want to wire the switch for it , on Amazon they have a wiring diagram that shows the black wires on one side and the white on the other , I did a continuity test and I know one side from the other , on the back near the terminals are numbered 1,3 and 4,6 . Question is should I follow your way line in 1,3 and load out 4,6
The 71006 is slightly different. Line in on 1 and 4 and line out on 2 and 5. If yours in numbered differently, line in is the bottom two terminals and line out are the top two. Polarity matters, so keep black to black on one side and white to white on the other.
@@rogersshop on the side of the switch near the terminals it has a diagram like this 1__/ __2 and bellow that 4__/__5 but on the switch near the brass terminals it is numbered 1, 3 on one side and 4, 6 ?
The continuity test shows me that 1,3 are one side and 4,6 are the other , how should I wire it black on 1,3 and white on 4,6 or black on 1, and white on 3 and black 4 and white on 6
@@bobsisic5714 Black on 1-3 and white on 4-6. So long as you keep colors the same on each side (as in left and right, not top and bottom) you will be good to go.
So, I am mechanically inclined, but not electrically. I know the green wire is ground, where does it go? Do I mount it to the box, or do I crimp/splice them together?
If you are using a metal box, the ground also needs to be bonded to the box. If using a standard electrical box, there will be a 10-32 tapped hole in the back of it for a bonding screw to add a ground pigtail. From there, all grounds are connected together.
@@rogersshop I bought a metal box and faceplate, and I hooked it up, White & Black Line to White & Black Load, and the Green Ground Line is supposed to be connected to Green Ground Load from the motor ground at the back of the metal box with a green grounding Screw. My question is, Do I mount the metal box directly to the table saw, or, do I mount it to wood and then connect it? Or do I insulate it with a piece of rubber? I'm not trying to die, but have already connected the wires, but haven't plugged it in. Projects are at a stand still until I know I am doing the right thing.
@@coreyparrish6765 Don't insulate or isolate the metal box from the saw frame (assuming you have a metal frame) All metal parts need to be bonded together (grounded) to assure everything is at the same potential. By potential, I mean grounded.
The wiring you described in this video is incorrect! The white wires are not supposed to be attached to the switch!!!! You have no place making youtube videos about this. The white wires should be wire nutted together like any other switch. Seeeesh! :(
This switch is designed to break BOTH sides of the circuit, hence my directions are CORRECT. This is also designated in manufacturer documentation and is a part of the UL listing for this device. This is not "any other switch". You have no place criticizing a master electrician unless you have PROOF, and you do NOT.