PPUMP AFC TUNING EXPLANIED & how to do mods 

Thanks for sharing all the tips and tricks. The little stuff is as important as the major stuff.

Thank you for showing us this and pre-thank you for showing us the results with it on the truck while running

Great Stuff Rob. A quick overview tutorial like that takes most of the unknowns away for us novice tuners. Thank you!

What did you do to the fuel plate in this video

You mentioned you would use a regulator to adjust the afc on the truck. AFC live of sorts where would you set star wheel, smoke screw and what spring would you use? To then adjust the boost coming in with regulator. I have a adjustable little elbow that came with my rack plug and I thought of using it to fine tune.

Great stuff! Lot of different opinions on increasing boost levels on stock turbo, pinching the line or boost elbow. Would love to know your input/tips

LOVE your videos, real world stuff for us 12V guys. I replaced the "lipped" washer on the diaphram rod with a fender washer, but when looking at the diaphram rod travel the 2MM modified AFC foot did not touch the housing because the fender washer was bottomed on the housing, just in front of the star wheel. My question is: If the housing was relieved to allow the fender washer and diaphram rod to travel farther, towards the star wheel, would that help anything? If I remember correctly it looks like you could get maybe 3MM more foot travel. Retired machinist and Dad was heavy equipment mechanic so stuff like that is always possible to me if you are looking for more travel.

Perhaps you can explain the purpose and result of tightening (adding pressure to) the stock AFC spring, what we should see as a result of doing just that. Also, the opposite, what happens as a result of loosening the spring. It appears that loosening it would add more fuel quicker? and tightening it would keep fuel from coming on as quickly? Just starting to work with my AFC and would like to know what to expect with using a lighter spring vs a middle weight spring (or more tension vs less tension on the stock spring)... is one better for towing/hauling vs straight power (meaning more fuel) out of the hole? The aftermarket springs are longer which allows more adjustment, so what would be the best approach with the lighter spring (using more tension?) vs using the middle weight spring (using less tension?). There is SOOOOO much information out there that is NOT really explained well, so I appreciate your taking the time to explain in the detail that you do. Keep up the good work!

Hey Rob Great video brother Quick question, I purchased the afc live kit from PDD and they recommend to grid abt 1/8in off of the foot. Here is my question for you, if I add the rack plug do I still need to grid off the foot? Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👊🏻👍🏻

I'm sorry for the potentially idiot question, but I really like the use of a regulator to get a starting point. HOwever, if you aren't at max travel at 30psig, do you adjust the smoke screw or the starwheel to get it there? I'd assume starwheel but idk for certain.

Hey Rob I got a question how long is the afc foot before you grind it down. Not the actual foot but the shaft you took 2mm off.

Where your star adjuster screw is, is that stock. That's were mine was. But I just purchased my truck and I'm trying to get rid of the blk smoke. I think they messed with that. Everything else seems stock. Tamper screws were not messed with just seems like the allen bolt was removed. Someone told me stock is in the middle for that star screw. Can you confirm?

Hi I did a 12 valve in 2000 F450 I use it for towing only It drives good i have good power on take off but when I'm in the highway I don't have top end power to pass another car.

Do you grind the foot and cut the 2mm off, or is it one or the other?

I want to install an aftermarket rack plug and grind my afc but I’m worried that I could get a stuck rack? How does a rack get stuck? Does running no fuel plate pose a greater risk? Could you go into some detail on this ? Thanks!

If I’m adding a rack plug is it still a benefit to grind the AFC foot?

I recently did all the mods on my P-pump and its a dog on the bottom end but starts boosting and fueling around 2,300rpm! Question is do I turn in the " smoke screw " on the backside of the AFC housing to increase bottom end acceleration? Or do I loosen the star wheel and turn in the smoke screw?

How would u tune it for fuel economy? Do u want more fuel or less and should it really smoke

Would any part of the AFC cause a no ldle or stop below 1300 rpms?

Is there a way to delete the entire fuel heater unit and not just the heater element?? I’d like to do the modification to my new lift pump for my 94 12v with the comp cam spring...but I just don’t see the need for the whole white unit for the fuel heater...I know you need an additional spacer...

i think i got about 14.5 -14.9mm of travel out of my afc foot with all these mods. but an interesting thing happens when you try to tighten the afc spring. it doesn’t take much tension on the spring and then it coil binds a stock spring. with spring completly loose i got max travel of almost 15mm i i remember but it’s not much tension on the star wheel and it starts to limit travel. i was going to try a longer spring. never did it yet. i was also going to grind down the small ridge around the smoke screw ( on the inside of the afc diaphragm cover ) so the diaphragm could start further back to help control the bottom end once afc is bolted on full forward. have you ever measured your foot travel? be interesting what your getting

If the diaphragm leaking will it cause smoking

Do you have a video on ur afc live type thing?

My 97 12 valve does not have a line going to the afc