Thanks for the video . I not a expert on these , I remember back when one of the transmission builder wanting to keep the I think boost down a bit at low throttle to help the automatic live until rpm were up a bit . I assume the larger front pump gears from the 48 helped a bit . My transmission is stock or mostly stock so I always want to get the rpm up a bit before I use a quiet a bit of throttle . A good transmission would change that . Thanks for all you do
All I typically deal with are off road applications and I just plug the line and crush the aneroid. On P pumps that are in the $10k-$25k price range it is totally removed. Aside from farm tractor/pulling tractor I am curious how adjustments affect drivability. Great video Rob!
on the big guys pumps ( pullers ) they like all the fuel now if they want it, but the on road , drag race stuff you want to bring the fuel in different so you don't put the fire out with fuel, i will be doing a bunch of video's on tuning
Great videos on the Cummins. My buddies and I love them. Quick question, what engine stand do you recommend for rotating the whole engine over safely? Thanks for all the info.
Does a 215 pump use a different spring? If I’m making 45lbs of boost, what psi should make the foot move to max travel? I have tried two different brands of heavy springs and with them both tightened to just off coil bind. They still go full fuel to early and smoke heavily at mid boost.
Great video! So I went to your website and didn’t see the parts available but I seen your just using fender washers and couldn’t I just get a spring from industrial injection?
5:10 by chance do you know what the unmodified length of the afc foot guide barrel is before the 2mm is taken off? i don’t currently have mine in front of me but basically my truck was my dads truck and i bought it after he passed and i know for a fact he put a #0 fuel plate in it but i don’t think he shaved down the barrel guide and i just wanna make sure before i go and shave it myself then it ends up being too short.
Isn’t the bottom washer that touches the spring supposed to be smaller than the other? So it bottoms out on the afc housing. Gives it a little more travel I believe… maybe it doesn’t make a difference but a smaller washer on the under side of the cup would allow a couple more mm of travel.
The thin washers make up the difference vs the stock washer. You can use a smaller washer but if you do go full travel all the time you have to keep an eye on the diaphragm as you will wear it in the housing
Hey rob. My air line looked to be cut in half. And plugged with a screw on both ends.. Can you tell me what that does or why it may be like that? And should I
if its the line from the pump afc the head you want that hooked up as thats the afc control , witch gives the truck fuel , if it'd the line that goes to the turbo its the gate control nwith that waste case you over spin the turbo and kill it
I don’t like the lack of fuel control with h afc deleted. Stockish 500 and down it’s easy to control. But 600 and above it’s a bit harder and will make more power with the ramping in fuel
@@CUTTERUPROB yeah I’m only sitting around 350 ish in my first gen. 60 mm charger. Not terribly smokey. But my 2nd gen, it’s really smokey but it’s also a manual truck and I haven’t done gov springs yet. But yeah I can control the smoke pretty easily still in both trucks.
