I learned (the hard way) that you should be VERY specific about what your ‘vision’ for the quilting is. You need to know that it IS ok to ask very specific questions and make sure you discuss every detail until you both understand. That is not ‘being picky’ that is communicating. Scale and density of quilting should be part of the discussion as well, because those things can drastically change how the quilt looks. Thank you for such a helpful video!
I am fairly new to longarming and really enjoyed and learned a bunch from this video. Especially about the backing seam running horizontally, along the bar instead of the other way. Please keep sharing your knowledge with us. Thanks again for all the info
Hi, I'm a first time subscriber and I want to Thank you so much for all the information from seams to the backing of the quilt before taking the quilt to a longarm quilter to be quilted. I have never taken my quilt to a longarm quilter and I wanted to learn what I can do to make it easier for her and you showed me how to prepare my quilt so we both can have a wonderful experience.
Kelly mentioned that she's not fond of torn backings and I've heard that from many of my customers too, but if they've given me the extra backing I need, then there's really no problem. Any distortion or waviness the tearing causes only goes about 1/2" into the fabric, so it won't affect where I'm quilting at all. I'd rather have square with frayed edges than not square. I've seen cut wide backs that are as much as 9" different from selvedge to selvedge after tearing to straighten.
I quilt for people also and, every thing that you are commenting on, I have experienced. It seems like people do not like to give me extra backing on the edges. I've also gotten seams that have holes in them. It's amazing, you have hit everything that I have had!!! Thank you so much!
Hello from a new long arm old lady! Haha ! Could you recommend a video of how to take the quilt off the long arm and the best way to square it up and other tips ? Thanks in advance. Ps this video was great ,all the tricks were awesome!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Czt-zB0HEO8.html At about 15:30, we talk about basting the bottom of the quilt top so that you can remove it from the leader. Using a laser square is great from squaring up/trimming your quilt after you have removed it from the longarm.
Thank you for all the helpful hints. The quilt behind you pieced by Kim does look like it was quilted with an edge to edge pattern until you take a second look, very clever! I love the dark background too. I'd like to see a picture of the whole quilt but I didn't see a link to the pattern.
I’m a brand new quilter I purchased the new moxie and I love it and all of your videos I watch over and over to learn all I can! Thank you so much please keep them coming!! I have found that there is much more information with having a prosticher computer etc. than free motion please share how you learned to use rulers and designs to free motion! I’m definitely going to get the add on of computerized when it’s available for the moxie! I love HQ and all the suggestions
I have a suggestion for a future class. I own a 5 foot frame. I make and quilt large quilts. Could you share tips for loading, re-loading, moving the fabric around on the frame, securing the unquilted portion as well as the quilted portion. I have my own work-a-rounds, but I am sure there are other techniques I would enjoy learning.
Great advice. It would be wonderful if this information were shared at guilds. Pressing is so important. SID is difficult when seams are pressed carelessly. I piece and longarm. At times even as careful as I am I will have joints flip. A good steam or product press will minimize the inevitable. Those that flip in the middle make our job harder and the end result possibly not as good as it could have been. Trimming frays oh my wonderful before the top arrives. Seams pressed open in the backing priceless. I didn't know about paying attention to grain. I don't think a quilter understands how important it is to prepare the backing fabric properly. Wide back fabric may be a 3 yard cut but the shop rarely cuts the fabric straight. I like 'design as you see fit' too but the top creator may have chosen that pattern for an element I didn't see or love feathers or cross hatching. Their love may not be practical or fit the top design but a chat is ever so helpful. Thank you gals for super info!
I have really enjoyed this video! Thank you both so much!! Quick question for clarification - when you are trimming the edge straight are you cutting the selvage edges or the torn edges or do you end up doing both?? Sure this is a pretty dumb question??!!
Good evening! If you use a starching agent like Best Press on the quilt top, does it gum up the needle on the longarm machine? Thanks! Another quick question: if you have to use 'frankenbatting' for a quilt does it matter which way most of the seams are aligned?
Starching agents do not gum up the needle. Sticky stuff such as on Steam a Seam will. Franken batting can be put together in whatever way is needed. No need to align seams.
I really learned alot from this video. Thank you!! I am really confused when it comes to choosing the batting. What quilt batting do you recommend for a quilt that is used and washed regularly. Cotton, an 80/20 blend, wool, polyester?? And do you prefer Quilter's Dream, Hobbs, Pellon?
Batting is mostly personal preference. All of the brands are great. I use Quilter's Dream at home and Hobbs in the office. A quilt that is going to be washed a lot can have any of the battings. I usually use an 80/20 because that is what I have on hand and it is more economical than a wool.
Thank you for the informative video. I am just beginning to quilt for other people. I was wondering if you have any tips on how you would do an edge to edge within the borders, and then custom on the borders. I have a hard time ending the edge to edge in the right spot within the border when at the back of my machine. I always seem to over step that border seam some how.
Hi Penny - I don't think we have any videos or tutorials for that - but you can give us a call and we can walk you through how we would do that. 877-697-8458.
Great video. In order sometimes to make a quilt back a little larger I will add a long row of flying geese or similar blocks from the front. Is that a problem for you? Also I like to pre attach the quilt label sew it ends up quilted in. Any recommendations on how to help you keep it lined up straight?
Adding extra blocks to the back is great. However, don't expect your quilting to have the backing lined up perfectly with the top. Things shift as you quilt and it is very time consuming and often frustrating trying to get it all lined up. As for the label, if you are needing it in a specific location, I would recommend doing it after the quilting.
I just got my first longarm (Moxie!). Should I iron the backing before quilting? Is it OK to have some creases in the batting? If not, how should I flatten the batting?
Our Super Leader comes with the Gallery 2 frame, or you can purchase it separately. Our regular leaders are 17" deep. The Super Leader is 27" deep. It makes it easier to load the quilt from the front. handiquilter.com/?s=leaders&post_type=product
Ii'm wanting to learn how to do free hand quilting on my long-arm. I've done E2E and want to learn more. I'm confused as to whether to begin quilting in the center of the quilt and work outward OR to work the larger less stitched areas first then stitch the smaller tighter stitched areas. What would you suggest? What's your rule of thumb that guides you?
Each quilt is different. I usually don't start in the center unless I am doing a mandala though. Most of the time, I will start with the thread color that I plan to use the most and work through one throat space at a time. If there are areas that I am not stitching in, I make sure to baste it to hold the layers in position.
For the rolling system, you will load each piece separately. There are other frame systems that you can get that require you to baste the sandwich prior to loading it.
I’m considering buying a long arm, the new Moxie XL, but I have a question about the leaders. In a few videos I keep seeing it being mentioned to line up the centers of your quilt with the center la of your leaders. But how do You know that the center of your top leader is in line with the center of your bottom leader?
You mark the center of your leaders and then line those up with the center of the pole so that everything is lined up. With the Moxie XL on an 8' loft frame, the section where the poles meet is actually the center of the poles so you don't even have to measure them!!
Have you ever turned away a quilt given to you? I just turned one away as they tried to give me a bag of poly batting from Joanne’s. Since I have worked with this batting before I know it does not lay flat nor does it quilt up well.
Lizzi, I really don't like to turn people away but it is going to happen. You need to remember that when the quilt leaves your studio, your name is attached to that quilt! If you don't feel like what is given to you is going to allow you to do your best work, don't do it. (That's my personal opinion anyway!!)
It was mention could get a copy of the pattern for the quilt behind the ladies doing the video. They said it was in the comments are ? could you send me the info.
I would like to ask if you have a preference to using your own batting or if your customers bring their own batting to keep cost down? Does it actually decrease the cost?
I sent a previous question on the quilt hanging behind the educators. I would like to know the name of the pattern, the replay wasCrystal prisms from McCalls quick quilts aug/sep. That is not the same quilt. could you please check again for the name of the pattern. thanks Jeannette
The quilter that made the quilt hanging in the video just showed me the pattern from the magazine. She did adjust the layout a little to make it the size she wanted and the quilt is hung up in a different orientation than what is shown in the magazine. Pages 8-11
Here is a video that talks about the frame height. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FrCo7w4yJfU.html The height will also depend on what kind of quilting you are doing. If you do a lot of ruler work or microwork, you might want your frame higher so you aren't leaning as much to see what you are doing.
The ability to turn the quit depends on the quilting pattern. If the pattern is directional and has to go one way then you can not turn the quilt. Most quilting patterns can go either way on the quilt top. In that case, you can turn the quilt sideways. Ex: A woodgrain pattern should go the direction of the trees. In that case you wouldn't rotate the quilt top.
I have a problem with Omni thread on my Bernina longarm. The thread on the back sews straight instead of sewing stitches. I turned the tension up to 5.5 but the thread keeps breaking. I turn it back to 5.25 the breaking stops but still does not stitch right.
It sounds like you are having a tension issue. Your tension in your bobbin is probably too loose -I would recommend tightening it. As for you top thread breaking, that is often an indication that you have a needle that is too small for your thread size. When quilting with Omni (a 40 wt thread) we recommend using a size 18 needle. If you are still having issues, we recommend you contact your Bernina retailer. (Or you could trade in your Bernina and get a Handi Quilter! ;)
Do you mean the stay stitching or serging that we talked about? If yes, that is definitely an added bonus. I rarely have quilt tops brought in with this step done. It makes my end so much easier!
@@kristinawhitneyhqstudioedu7013 good evening; may I ask you to expound on this comment? Do you mean that quilters should baste around the entire quilt edge before sending them to a longarmer? How does that improve the overall end result please?? Thanks!
I am brand new to quilting on a longarm. When you talked about squaring up the back, you mentioned that that particular backing was almost three inches off which you would have to square off. Does the four inches extra around the whole quilt backing allow for this or should you have even more fabric to square it up?
Stay stitching is just a normal straight stitch which just goes around the outside edge of the pieced patchwork top, it helps to stop/minimise the edges from stretching (either bias fabrics or seams coming undone), keeping your quilt top flatter & easier to longarm. If you can, stitch it within 1/4 inch from the outside edge, then after its been quilted & trimmed, the stay stitiching will be inside the seam allowance for the binding. Stay stitching is also used in dressmaking.
@@judithzeoli4791 For piecing the borders, make sure that you measure the size of the quilt in multiple locations prior to attaching the border. If you make the border the smallest of the measurements, it will help prevent the rippling.
