Just started my journey on make smokeless powder and reloading primers also. It was nice to see that your making some videos doing the same. You rock and thanks for your dedication to your channel.
I ran across this stuff a couple years ago when I was trying to figure out how smokeless powder is made. I'm exited to see where this goes, you got me on the edge of my seat. :)
Guncotton Because of their fluffy and nearly white appearance, nitrocellulose products are often referred to as cottons, e.g. lacquer cotton, celluoid cotton, and gun cotton.[2] Guncotton was originally made from cotton (as the source of cellulose) but contemporary methods use highly processed cellulose from wood pulp. While guncotton is dangerous to store, the hazards it presents can be reduced by storing it dampened with various liquids, such as alcohol. For this reason, accounts of guncotton usage dating from the early 20th century refer to "wet guncotton." The power of guncotton made it suitable for blasting. As a projectile driver, it had around six times the gas generation of an equal volume of black powder and produced less smoke and less heating. Further research indicated the importance of washing the acidified cotton. Unwashed nitrocellulose (sometimes called pyrocellulose) may spontaneously ignite and explode at room temperature, as the evaporation of water results in the concentration of unreacted acid.[11
I wonder in addition to possible spontaneous combustion in room temperature, I wonder if it becomes extremely shock sensitive after the water evaporates acetone would also be a good liquid agent to make it temporarily inert as well if alcohol isn't handy
@@nicholecrouch311 - Alcohol and acetone are both viable "wetting" agents. The advantage of acetone is rapid evaporation. The advantage of alcohol is more manipulation time and the addition of a bit more "power". An old time black powder recipe involved "stewing" on the stove to ensure complete integration of all components and then "rinsing" with alcohol to eliminate any residual water and speed the drying process. The process actually worked, and worked well. Strong, stable, efficient black powder resulting.
Can't wait to see the finished product. When I was in 7th grade I saw the formula for gun powder in the dictionary. I bought a mortar and pestle and began making it with a friend and we burned a lot of stuff up playing with it. When I was in the Navy I found formula for making different powders use in firework. I wrote a fireworks manual with the intent on selling them but I couldn't afford to get it published. I still have my original typewritten manuscript I wrote in 1972. Good luck with your experiment.
It has been a project on the back burner for me for a couple of years. I know a guy in Brazil who had a buddy who makes findings for jewelry make the dies for a both anvils and cups. They are made for a punch press and they can crank them out.
Playing the waiting game and waiting for powder and primers payed off I didn’t have to really look thanks to a fellow reloader he hooked it up and sold 10k plus primers and 20lbs plus powder and thanks to your videos Elvis ammo and fc45lc I have casting bullets and powder coating down..and again thank you Elvis Ammo for all the videos you put out
Thanks for the great info!! We can cast bullets, we can make black powder, but primers is where they have us. There is a company that sells chemicals and tools to reload 22s. They say you can use their chemicals for primers and #11 caps. It cost about $20 for the chemicals.
@Jim Dunkle I got the $20 package you refer to but haven’t tried it yet. They are 3-4 weeks backlogged. It’s a corrosive mixture but better than nothing and just clean your weapon after shooting it. Did you not know the company name or not want to use the name?
👂🏻👂🏻👂🏻👂🏻👂🏻👂🏻👂🏻👂🏻👂🏻🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏 I know you have done some research and that you know how dangerous this can be but I read a story of this guy who worked in an ammunition factory and how the primer rooms where built out of 2 foot thick concrete walls. He said that they where eating lunch one day and heard an explosion and a shoe came flying through the lunch room so please be safe and do things in a very small quantity
Primer rooms are dangerous because they're handling a whole load of paste to fill an entire platter of primers at once. I think that in a video I've seen the worker handle what looked like half a pound of paste. The rooms are temperature and humidity controlled, if moisture drops the primer composition dries and friction sets it off. I don't know when they made the switch but now only three of the four walls are that thick. One of the walls faces the outside of the building and it's much thinner so that in case there's an accident, the entire wall is blown off instead of creating overpressure. Like in some tanks that have purposefully weakened blow off panels in case the ammunition gets hit in combat and starts to cook off.
Did I just see Elvis Ammo making gun cotton? I did I did. Well done brother looking forward to the upcoming videos on this to see where and how you go with it. Taking my teacher hat off and putting on my student beanie and listening. Here is an apple 🍎 teacher.
Elvis I used to spray clear nitrocellulose primer and the over spray that got on the fans I could scrape it off and light it "just playing around" and it would burn like progressive reloading powder was very necessary to use explosion proof fans thanks for your videos
Ive watched quite a few of these gun cotton vids over the years. Utuber named nilered has a really good/scientific take. But still dyi able. He advised squeezing the excess, then rinsing with a weak baking soda solutiin till the rinse runs clear. It helps neutralize any left over un reacted acid, thus decreasing the chance of spontanoues ignition. Im sure uve already done ur research but give it a look see if u havent already. So i was glad to see u do that. Lotsa folks forget that step
A big thumbs up here and I am already subscribed. Watching closely I am also working on a receipt for primers and musket caps. Keep us informed. thanks
This was beginning to look like a mad scientist performing an experiment. But I'm beginning to see a method to your madness. Looking forward to the series 👍🇺🇸
Great work, as always! Thanks for sharing your info. I just ordered some Prime All to try out, but I hear the back log is a month or so out. Can't wait for the rest of the series 🇺🇸👍👊
When is your next video on your homemade primers. I am running out and can’t find anywhere. Very interested in this. Thank you so much for all the info you share with us unselfishly! It is much appreciated! Impatiently awaiting your next video!
Before making your own go to Midway USA website they have been selling bricks of 1000 for $79. It’s high but easier than making your own. And they are becoming more available.
Great vid Elvis as always thanks. Wondering if battery acid (bought at any auto parts store) which is approx 50% sulfuric acid wouldn't be an easier way for that component ? I bought 5 gallons a while back for doing some DIY anodizing and I'm thinking it was around $10 gallon . I dont know squat about any of this so just throwing the thought out there in hopes that someone who knows will comment before I accidently blow up my garage lol.
So when I learned to make it we used nitric acid and sulfuric acid. A faster reaction with the cotton. Great idea stump remover is easier to locate than nitric acid.
Get a buchner funnel my dude, and a vacuum erlenmeyer flask, as well as a vacuum pump. Will be much better for rinsing allowing you to remove all the acid. Also need ph strips to test the effluent to make sure you are nuetral.
I was scared just watching you with that lighter. I could see the big bowl in the background and know it was wet but still I had visions of a flash fire big enough to see on the 6 o’clock news.
You can use PH papers to check that all the acid is gone. When ph is neutral all the acid should be gone. Neutral ph is 7 but check your rinse water to make sure. Not all tap water is because of the mineral content.
Next time please use a glass stir stick and maybe get ahold of a gas respirator also i would suggest making alot more soda solution like a 5 gallon bucket worth incase the glass cracks and it goes everywhere
Elvis you have me spellbound. I can't wait to see what's next. How in the world do you come up with this stuff? Are you really Stephen Hawking's brother? Do you know why the acid bath makes the cotton burn like that? Do we need to add some firefly butts to the cotton now? Where does the ground glass come into play. So many questions. Don't leave me hanging like this. 👍great video.
Let me just make clear what I have learned about drawing primer cups and making primers. You need both cups and anvils to make primers. The machinery needed to make cups is different from the machinery to make anvils (somewhat) Anvils are easier to make BUT making the dies to cut and shape steel anvils out of sheets of steel must be MUCH more robust than the dies made for drawing the tiny cups. The dies for the cups can be made with a manual lathe. The dies for making anvils can be made by EDM (I believe) or with VERY good CNC Milling...AND sophisticated heat treating equipment. Or they could possibly be etched out with tiny grinding bits like diamond dremel bits by hand. (A very long and difficult process) Then still would have to be hardened . THEN...These types of dies are used in PUNCH PRESSES. Not home shops even have small punch presses. Just like check makers, cups can be drawn one at a time with any type of press including a reloading press. A guy like me with a mini lathe can make the dies to form one at a time primer cups...just like the gas checks that Tom Burson shows in his videos (check them out). So I have been entertaining the thought of making a dies to draw BERDAN cups which do not require anvils. I have made hydraulic Berdan deprimer tools. And I have made a jig to shave boxer primers (small pistol) down to the depth where they can be used in Berdan brass. I have a friend who is THE authority on making priming compounds who has done many experiments on how to reload both Boxer primers and Berdan primers. In my opinion if this drought in obtaining primers turns into a very long term situation, people like Dan Burson and others who are inventive will be able to supply drawing dies for making Berdan primers which will obviously drive the interest in Berdan priming technique. THAT would be the alternative to the Boxer primer supply permanently drying up. UNLESS some one who is already in industry that uses punch presses decided to make the dies for making anvils and start selling anvils. But that is unlikely. So don't get you hopes up for having home made primers soon. Recharging used primers will be the only alternative for a while. Oh, one other thing...the copper or cupronickel that primers are made from is carefully heat treated for the perspective application. One company overseas publishes their practical different hardnesses of copper for different applications (typically the difference between standard and magnum primers)
The biggest problem with a non-corrosive solution is going to be shipping. We would need to figure out a way to ship the recipe separately maybe? But if you have a way to make primer cups of any kind I wouldn’t worry about primers being available or not. They are always available and then not available just like ammo. As Reloaders and preppers we want to always be able to make these ourselves and reload with her supplies or available or not. Whatever you can do would probably be profitable. You can also email me at elvisammo@gmail.com
@@elvisammo just giving you hard time brother like I said I truly appreciate you and your channel Sir. I would be a lost sob if it wasn’t for you and the others on yt
That might be something that people don’t know about me... 🤣😂🤪 True, but I always enjoy and heed the advice of this awesome community. Being stubborn can get me in trouble sometimes.👍👍👍 you did detect correctly..
hey Elvis ,the endproduct depends on the purity of the ingredients and mixtures ,and how safe it is .to store and using it . a good book is . The chemistry of powder &explosives by tenney l davis
@@englishrupe01 omg thank you so much for the pdf file. Ive been going nuts looking for primer compounds and i was at the point of try to make mercury fulm***te which is extremely toxic so ill be reading through and maybe post a video once i find a good stable compound i can make in my garage. Thank youso much again
I have one question, this primer material is made with various acids, is the end result corrosive ? Do you know if there's a way of home-making any non-corrosive primers ? I'm all for the home-made (mainly for budgetary reasons mind you, that and the pleasure of shooting something you can proudly say "I made this myself"), but I wouldn't want to fire corrosive ammo in my guns... Thanks for your work, your videos have been among my main sources of info from the start in reloading, bullet casting, and powder coating.
Regular matches not waterproof matches not storm proof matches but regular matches with the strike pad is your best option and easiest option to make your own primers. Look into it
