PSA Video For Younger Guys Trying To Revive Ancient Cars - YOU Are The Computer! 

Haha yes I found that very amusing as I'm exactly the same

It’s because when you’re busy doing something you’re passionate about you don’t have time to spectate someone else do something you’re not at all involved in. Ya, I’m not a sports guy either.

The Steelers played football yesterday, my brother said. It took me like 5 minutes to find the Xfinity doohickey on my TV, shows how much I even watch the damn thing. And the fucking Dolphins game was on anyway! The fact I don't really care anyway made it easy to shut it off and walk away.

What are sports?

Yay! Sportsball!

We are out here

😎

@@malcombailey8590 I just wish there were more of you. I recently turned 61 with some health issues that make it hard to turn wrenches like I used to. I have a 67 Camaro that I street raced back in the 80s, 71 Cheyenne pickup, 85 K5 Blazer, and 01 WS6 Trans Am. Would love to find a young guy to help me work on them, and I’d be willing to teach them things, but haven’t had much luck finding someone that wants to do it, even when I’d pay them fairly. About to start restoring my Camaro, wondering how I’m gonna get it done without some help. I’d have plenty of help from my racing buddies back in eastern NC where I’m from, but got to stay here in north GA because I’m taking care of my elderly mom.

29 and restoring a Bronco.

they are in this hobby. they can buy a Hemi or a 300 hp V6 and with a cold air kit beat most 14 second musclecars :)

Im 45, I have learned so much from UT, and I hope to continue to learn. I am definitely one who appreciates. Thank you UT

@@davidfarrell1167 I am 44 and have been a mechanic at a dealership since ‘96, at a Chrysler store until 01 and at a Jaguar/Land Rover one since then. I have watched UT’s generation leave the industry and the one below me enter it. The video UT did the other day about the decline of our blue collar, skilled trades workforce was right on the money.

Couldnt agree more.

@@davidfarrell1167 I’m 41 and fix cars as a hobby, after my late Granddad showed me some basics with engines and tools. UT- not only are you a good man, you ARE the man!!!

I'm 22 and I can't explain how much UTG has helped me and motivated me

@@skidooer583 It's like steam cleaning the cylinders, helps loosen and remove carbon deposits.

water is the more environmentally safe alternative to atf lol

I have seen engine damaged from this both piston to valve contact And pushrods bent I have found it a good practice to pull The valve cover and give the valves a light tap with a hammer to verify they are not stuck

I'm guessing there was interference hahaha

Marvel in the cylinders will help with this

Yeah, I do this working up to my first start in the Spring to start building oil pressure to avoid a dry start. For new guys: Remember to unplug the coil for safety!

Spraying a little fogging oil in the cylinders never hurts! Definitely crank by hand first!

I was in there the other day. I experienced what is best described as an academic renaissance of sorts. The import performance aisle. I never saw so many LED's, stick on decor and spoilers in my life. They even had skateboards, beef jerky and t-shirts. Forget the fact that they didn't have e-clips in the store or even know what one was

You can save that buck or two and repurpose a plastic soda or oil bottle . Just need to put a hole in the cap of whatever size you deem necessary for your purpose . Most old cars seem to have a few empties laying about , anyway , and , any reasonably sharp object can be used to make the hole . I have even seen some deluxe versions where they actually used a drill bit instead of a pocket knife or a random sharp rock .

@@kaboom4679 😂

Im the euro guy and I kinda hate it because I have to tell them (my fellow enthusiast customers) not to buy most of what I sell

@@andrewgarcia3136 Totally get it. A buddy helped me buy a fixer upper 1979 BMW 750L for $1k. Parts were $2500 and it sold for $13k. Expensive and hard to work on. New models are considerably worse.

TH 400 is one hell of an automatic.

I bought a Old car this summer. Cleaned up the Ignition system very carefully it was alot work. My fuel pump started leaking so Replaced that. Ohh some car have no Fuel filter from the Tank. Carburator gets full corrosion I know one guy that used Vacuume to clean it out. I went to college for mechanics and its not interesting or easy but going over the Basics is basic maintenance. Timing chain slop within spec, compression, engine connectors clean. At some point gaskets need done but is intake vacuume hanging in there. Back in the 90s i had duel exaust put on mine i could not get power the cam was weak. GM is awsome

20 in wheels ugh God no

What are prices like on old cars in the US at the moment? Here in Australia prices for old cars with rear wheel drive and carburettor have gone stupidly expensive. Not sure if it's covid or retirees reliving their youth, or people hiding their savings in old cars.

@@BL2197 I paid 2500 dollars for this truck, I've seen ones in better shape go for a lot more. This one was a little beat up and needed floorboards badly.

Thank you for this

Which is only true on the surface. The whole "glorified air pump" gets more wrong the more in detail you get.

I second the 2 stroke.

Mustie1 does that.

Great tip thanks

Thanks for the tip. Getting my old ass Elky back on the road. I've been looking for squirt bottles

Me too. I just have the leaf blower gas handy for a squirt bottle. Can't hurt.

Agreed, they act like the younger generation are idiots and simultaneously can’t click 3 buttons to complete a basic task on a computer. If you look at both tasks, the computer one is objectively far easier, and only one party is trying to learn something new.

@@bannedbycommieyoutube5time920 Some of us can rebuild an old carbureted engine down to bare block and have it start within the first second, AND have computer certs training others in software. One does not exclude the other. Attitude is of all ages.

I think he assumed that was already done, as you are quite right. The fuelling is the last step. If everything has been done as you outlined, not only will it start, but it will keep running, and not have parts blow up.

its the residue petroleum all fuels leaves, makes things gunk up becoming like tree sap. if the vehicle is been sitting for more than 5 years, do a deep clean of the unit before starting, could suck in gunk and burn out

Is it carbed? The quardajet I had on my thirdgen had leaking bowls, needed some epoxy inside the bowls, as its porous, and develops small leaks in the bowl casting.. It leaked down so it didnt gave enough fuel to fire, needed to run the pump some first. Epoxy fixed it. Instant starts after that.

Yep, I use a spray can lid to fill the bowl if I don't have any bottles handy

Yes, I fill the bowl too. And make sure I can see the squirter works. Then check the spark, battery, compression. Once I had dissasembled a motorcycle engine to bare block halves, needed a crack welded, then reassembled and started and ran on first kick. My fellow motorcycleclub member watching this, who had spent 4 months getting his bike to run unsuccessfully, gave up on old motorcycles that day. Its all about going through the steps and checking off all checkboxes. No need to craaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaank.

Glad you said that. I do the same with a little oil mix to rejuvenate that dry accelerator pump. Also it greatly reduces fire hazard if a valve is sticking and backfire happens when someone is dumping gas in it. No need for that. I just cringe when a young uninformed person is furiously pumping the gas pedal on a bone dry carburetor,

@@richceglinski7543 if your fire starts on the carb a good policy is set air cleaner on top so no open fire could quickly start and then if you have fire, turn the engine over that will suck the fire in

KA24 lasts forever

240 had a great look

That’s good to hear. Love those cars myself and find it a shame how many people my age ruined them either from crashing/ over modding. If you want one that hasn’t been abused too much the automatics seem to be it.

@@MultiRokusho this is my 4th 240, my previous 3 were all factory automatics, they were of varying condition lol. I’m taking good care of my current chassis. No overfenders or bozo modifications

@@MultiRokusho You c an always export a JDM silvia or 180sx and many from Japan are in very nice cosmetic and mechanical shape

No shit huh!! Newsom need’s to find the Exit door and kick rocks!!!

lol

I know your pain, I left that third world, pathetic excuse of a state for Arizona last December. Hear the horror stories from my buddies and family back there on a daily basis. I empathize heavily with the sane people still there.

@@robd7365 I was 24 years old when I did it after they started doing "your papers, please?" I consider myself lucky that at the time, I was single, had no real baggage, and had amassed a lump sum of money from working at a corporate machine shop. Uhauls are thousands of dollars to leave California with because demand is so high. It's all the more difficult when you've got a family, kids, and tenure at a job, but still, if you want something badly enough, you'll get it.

@@vandalvetteworks8008 Don't worry, Arizona is slowly turning blue because of Californians.

Marvel Mystery Oil and fuel, 1:25, respectively. Sufficient for combustion chamber/cylinder lube, but plenty of fuel to light it up. There will be smoke, but only for a minute after it starts. Old school mechanic from Europe turned me on to that and it always works, as long as compression is decent and ignition is sending spark.

Dodge went to electronic in 1972 so you still have points. Get a thin strip of 300-400 grit emery cloth and fold it in half, grit side out. Pop the distributor cap off and gently open the points. If they're already open, bump the engine until the points are off the peak of the cam (closed). Put your folded emery cloth in there and let the points close on it. Pull it out. Repeat a few times, and you can check for continuity. Inside the cap use a flat screwdriver to scrape the corrosion off the metal contacts that connect to the wire towers. Put it back together and check for spark. If the color of the spark is orange replace the condenser, you want blue sparks. If you have continuity across the points and no spark check the white ceramic resistor on the firewall. My memory says they're five ohms, it's there to drop the voltage so the points last longer you can put a jumper on the terminals and some starter circuits bypass it while cranking to make up for the voltage drop caused by the demand of the starter. A 1971 will not like gasohol, you'll need to feed it non-ethyl. I like to prime them with a splash out of the jug for the chainsaw, that little bit of 2 cycle oil helps lube the valve guides and rings until the oil pump starts working.

@@Techno_Nomadic Thanks for the advice.

Excellent advice!! I'm a big Dodge guy!! I currently have four, all 2wd, 1984 Dodge, 318, 1986 Dodge (seriously rust free) 360, 1991 Dodge 318, 1996 Dodge 360 (extended cab) rust free!! All run, except the 1984!! Parts truck!!

Probably not? Unless that was a stunt carb and didn't matter if it got rusted?

Hope you get into it and not give up. If your lucky, it could be a seized waterpump, ive had one rust stuck. Or something similar. Thats assuming theres not a rod sticking out of the block. Even seized engines can be unseized, aslong as there is no actual broken parts.

That's a depressing thought.. But I can't argue with it.

It's cute that you think you'll be able to buy gasoline in 40 years.

Good advice my man!

Hey that's how I trim my beard

those are called a brow raiser

If your short on cash for a haircut though...