Excellent tutorial. After nearly two decades of water under the bridge, I needed a refresher. I guided out of Trout Creek, MT for several years but I'm back in Dixie for a spell now. We may all be living in wall tents if things keep going South. Thanks, Cliff and co.
I have seen other setups where the big bucks also held the eve poles as well as the ridge pole. That would take a little more calculating to get the correct length sot eh ridge and eves are at the right height.
Because of our typical snow load, I prefer separate big/small bucks. You end up with a much wider angle (and less contact of the bases to the ground) with the style you are talking about. If you don’t have to deal with the snow, it’s a great way to do it, less staking/ropes/etc... looks nice too.
Can you realistically cache the logs to reuse for later camps without worrying about people using them for firewood, or is human traffic so heavy in your area that you can't rely on common courtesy?
Hey cliff. Im gonna planning on living in a wall tent and i cant afford the metal frame and plan to build the frame this way youre showing in video. I also plan on setting it up on a platform that will only be like 8-12 inches off the ground. Could i ask you for advice on setting it up this way with a platform in mind? Thanks. This video is very helpful btw
This is such a well-done video. What are the dimensions of your tent? If you're doing a smaller 8 x 10 wall tent (about 4 feet at eaves and 6 feet at ridgepole) what would you do differently? Clearly asking for advice here...
This is a 16x20 - a common size we use. An 8x10 can be put up the same way, but is much easier. Two guys can do it without any issue. Unless you're dealing with insane amounts of snow of leaving the tent up for months, you don't need an upright inside the tent on a 8x10. Just use a beefy ridge pole.
@@markrobidoux6624 if you aren't dealing with a lot of snow, that will work just fine. When you do that, sometimes the big bucks want to "kick out" if the ridge is getting snow weight on it. You can mitigate this by driving rebar (or wooden stakes) next to the big bucks bases and lashing to them.
It's vinyl. I believe I just bought it in bulk, but I think the nonadhesive vinyl flashing from Home Depot or Lowes would work. I have a 18" width roll we cut them from.
Hi Laura, I can't recall the measurement. We would lash or small bucks loosley, pick them up, test the height of the wall and then adjust. When you pull your eve tight (so you don't have sag in the roof, your side walls should be just touching with your sod cloth completely on the ground. There is always a little final play when you dig in the feet. you can dig a little deeper spot to lower the wall, or vice versa. Hope that helps.
Usually I leave them tied up, even when storing the tent. I had tents where we removed them all together. We always use stoves. If we temporarily had a tent up without a stove/pipe, I just flip the tarp rainfly we used. That way the hole would be covered. Hope that helps.
@@CliffGray Thanks! I was watching the video, and wondering how you were going to get the flap open, as in the video it looked like the flap was still closed after the tent was up. I have done that, and found it is next to impossible to get to the flap to tie it open without additional equipment, once the tent is set up. I was hoping you had a great solution to this problem. Great video, by the way!!
@@leathersaddlehorse 👍👍👍oh yeah i gotcha didn’t even realize that was the case in this video. It’s been so long since I did this video, don’t recall how we specifically did it here. Either struggled by standing on stove inside or boosted someone up the side wall, as you mention it’s a pain in the butt! 😁
What is the “cover” you guys use on the timber-cut ridge pole for friction protection for the canvas? It looks like TPO roofing material. Or, is it something else? On this setup, about how much of the “mule tape” rope do you go through on the lashing and tie-off to front/back stakes and then your 4 corner-buck setups?
I've used many different types of ridge covering material. Left over chunks of the TPO-type material, Tyvek, etc... they are work. Just something that helps the tent slide down the ridge pole while adding a little abrasion resistance. You need roughly 25ft on your ends and 15ft on each corner.
Sometimes we will manty the tent and then hitch it on without panniers (basket hitch and crows foot hitch). Other times we will just put the mantied tent ends in panniers and hitch the panniers with one long pack rope with a box hitch. I don't know that one way is really better than the other, mostly depends on what equipment you have. Panniers are nice because you can add a few small things into the bottom of the panniers before loading the tent... but the downside is that you have to have another set of panniers available and with you.
For a 16x20 tent, we use 20x25 tarps. I like these heavy white tarps. They still let some brightness into the tent, but don’t flop around near as much as cheap blue tarps. Having the tarp go over your side eves helps a ton when popping snow off.
@@CliffGray Hey if ya ever read THE SOURDOUGH EXPEDITION [1909]that group of three carried a 30 ft spruce pole to the summit of Mt. McKinley to put an American flag on. They took turns carrying it. Just sayin-real men take their poles with them thats all. How about the flag at the summit of IWO JIMA? That pole didn't just walk up there on its own. YEP real men take their poles with them. I rest my case.