Our series of Questions and Answers with The Armoury Founders, Mark Cho and Alan See. In this video Jan and Mark go through some trouser silhouettes. Visit thearmoury.com to learn more.
I have had my trousers made from some established MTM houses/brands several times and never got such "fit" advice from the tailors. As a result, on one such occasion, I had to go back to the atelier a whopping 6 times to get it right. This video is spot on and very helpful, thank you very much, Mark! Your videos provide invaluable advice.
@@gentlemenscholarsclub One of my uncles, involved in furniture trade, visits regularly. I'd definitely like to tag along on one of his trips to visit The Armoury when the chance arises. I just need to save up a lot to make it worthwhile, since the Rand is really weak in comparison to HKD.
This is such a complete yet simple walk through of well-fitting garments. I’ve never heard someone discuss the congruence of the trouser vs jacket. Great information and very easy to follow.
Indeed that is so simple but so overlooked. I cry inside every time I meet some guy with a jacket and skinny-ankle jeans. Yet they clearly think they are fashionable.
I'm very pleasantly surprised to hear someone actually mention hip measurements for once!! I'm a man with a very small waist and a very large hip size in proportion (about a 10 inch difference!) so I go a bit mad trying to find trousers that don't look hideously tight on my seat or very baggy on my waist. Its most frustrating when some OTR and even MTM retailers don't place a lot of emphasis on hip measurements.
Hi Mark, this must be one of the best videos on trousers and suit fit out there. Thanks for the great content. Keep up the good work. Look forward to visiting your store. Cheers, Eduard
Totally agree with your opinion on the leg opening, I've seen certain brands used narrow leg opening on their pleated trousers, less than 16 1/2" on size 34, which renders entire silhouette comically
Great insight and I'm in complete agreement after going from Uber full cut baggy things to overly correcting slim...to now a nice balance with shape but great drape and cohesive proportions.
This was very insightful. I have two suits and both of the trousers look pretty much like those too slim trousers, unfortunately... I have a slight belly so I think it would be beneficial to have some room in the trousers as well and not too much taper. I will have to consider this next time, it's hard to find good RTW trousers though.
Can you give more details on how to measure leg taper in particular in order for it to look proportional in the context of a regular to looser fit? Things like leg opening size, consistent taper vs knee down etc. Non-tailored trousers are rarely tapered and this has to be done via alteration, and judging it feels like a hard decision.
great video and very helpful. Can I ask, should side adjusters be used to help keep the trouser in position? I have a pair of linen trousers that are a little large now (i lost some weight) and the only way to keep them up is to pinch in the waistband with the side adjusters. Thank you
Hi Vas, side adjusters are definitely one solution to your problem. Some clients prefer to use a belt where they can or you can even ask an alterations tailor to take in the waist for you.
I loved this video. It’s great to see a comparison. That said, I’m still a fan of slim fit. I think the baggier pants are comical to look at and uncomfortable to wear (I hate a wide ankle opening). I appreciate it nonetheless.
I wonder how the waist should fit. I find that when the waist fits just right, trousers would slide down a bit and don’t stay. So I have to keep pull up the trousers. So most often I prefer it a bit tighter around the waist.
LOVE the pants from the Armoury. Why can't all chinos be cut like the sport chinos? I can't afford to drop $300+ on a pair of pants - but chinos from the 60's were cut like your sport chinos, seemingly everywhere. Is it possible to find a pair of chinos for under $100 with that cut?
so is the tapered trousers is the way? because I want to tailor my dad big trouser to look like the trouser that you're showing. hope you will reply 😃👍
Excellent presentation and I fully concur with your recommendations except for one issue I have which is the short(it seems) trouser length you sport?! I prefer slightly more length in general.
In order to keep a clean silhouette with either a suit or an odd jacket and trouser combination, do you need to cover the bottom of the shirt or is this irrelevant? Thank you in advance.
Are your current sport chinos the same cut as Mark is wearing here? On your site they're described as high rise, whereas in the video you describe them as mid-rise?
Hi there, the band collar shirt that Jan is wearing is sold out but we would be able to explore a made-to-order if you are interested. The other shirt is an older collab chambray we did with The Real McCoys (thearmoury.com/collections/shirts/products/the-armoury-x-the-real-mccoys-chambray-shirt?variant=48306303823) . We only have Large available to ship from our NYC location but we do have this in Small and Medium that we can ship from HK, please email us at info@thearmoury.com if you are interested!
My problem with higher waist pants is, without jacket it just feels weird and secondly, waist is either painfully tight for sitting, or falls down when standing...
Agree that higher rise trousers are best with jackets. The high rise is intended to hide the shirt gap that would be visible at the bottom of the jacket. However, the waist should fit well (not falling or tight). Best solution if slightly too loose (it will always subside some during the day) is to wear braces/suspenders.
I wear high rise trousers on the waist a little too loose but with suspenders they stay up. As suspenders aren't supposed to be seen, I always wear something to cover them, mostly a sports coat.
I actually dislike the fact that pleats make the trouser look more tapered. I don't want that strong tapered look, so I intentionally have my trousers un-tapered a bit especially when they have pleats, so they can appear to have a fairly straight leg still. Although, in truth, I end up with a leg opening similar of 19-19.5 as you describe. it's just that italian trousers start much slimmer at the ankle almost universally, which is seriously frustrating. I have had sales assistants insist to me that that is the correct look and I'm just outdated or similar. Needless to say I did not buy from them.
Will be glad when the skin-tight clothing fad subsides. The slim, tight jacket silhouette shows the a bit of shirt near the waistband when buttoned, an awful look. Can't agree about pleats, however. Pleats are a never.
Thank you Sir for your insite knowledge and sharing with us, as the others call it old fasioned, the trouser style you mention is the how it supposed to be. badlly enough this days most of reatailers selling almost (99.9%) trousers lower hip fit. I think if I am not wrong this came about 15 0r 20 years ago a cloth designer or stylist called Alexander Maqueen, accidently introduced the new fasion trouser so called "Builders Bom" which shows the middle part of their ass, and now most of the time seen with the gay community and misunderstood young boys. I use to buy my suit and trousers from the department stores such as M&S and House of Freser and others..etc. unfortunatly I can not find the properly cut and stiched trouser any more even the "Geans" in these stores, unless we go to made to measure with the old fashioned tailors. Thank you agian for your useful information. By the way, can you recommed any store which sell those kind of suit or trouser that you mentioned (the properly cut), also if you can. And how about the undesized Coats (U.S.A) or Jackets (U.K.).
