@@ratagris21 the solids in the pickup tube are too big to pass through the standard nozzle no matter how much acetone you have. It’s like a watermelon trying to pass through a straw. It’s just going to clog your standard spray nozzle unless you use a clean out nozzle.
@ratagris21 And yet again you've still not watched to see what he was talking about. It hasn't anything to do with the nozzle clogging. The issue was the tube clogging.
I painted a 10.5” 300 Blackout with the FDE 3 or 4 years ago. It still looks great. Important to prep the pieces well. I washed and degreased them and followed the directions and it looks perfect.
My dad showed me this trick when I was a kid back in the 60s. To this day, I still practice it. Also, before spraying, check the spray pattern on a piece of paper or cardboard.
The man is correct "READ THE CAN". How I use the coating: I sit the can in "hot water", 15 - 20 mins. I then shake and shake and shake and shake some more, between the warm coating and alot of shaking the product is ready to spray. The parts are washed in lacquer thinner, then glass beaded , then washed again in lacque thinner . Once the parts are clean use clean latex gloves to handle the parts. Hang the parts to coat and coat all surfaces at the same time. Let them hang for several days before you handle them. This is the way I do it and it works everytime!
I have been using Aluma-Hyde ever since it came out. I found it to be much better than anything out there. Being an epoxy based paint it cuts down on the problems with rust really well. You must clean the surface extra well. As you hang the peace your painting make sure you check the very bottom ends of your work. Old paint, rust and crud will collect at the bottom, so respray your work with cleaner, I use at least twice . The last thing I spray the surface with is alcohol at lease 87% why because anything less contains water. Just like when using it to clean a rifle barrel always use 87% or better. I also depending on the surface, heat my work. Painting AR's I preheat my oven to 250 for 15 minutes and the metal for 30 minutes then I hang it over night. I use it on steal 1911's first I clean them extra good then paint than place it in a preheated oven at 300 degree's for 30 minutes. My Springfield Armory TRP pistol is stainless steal. I painted it Black Aluma_ Hyde II over 10 years ago, thus far I've drawn it from a kydex holster over 1K's time and twice that much from my leather holster. So far no wear at all and the same kinda use with my AR's. Can't say enough about Aluma- Hyde II. Y'all take, flea
Want to paint an old Remington shotgun barrel. Still has original blueing on it. Does this need to be removed for better adhesion of the alums-hyde .????
How I used a lot of Aluma-Hyde with zero problems: - Soap (Dawn) & water clean the items. Paper towel dry. Then shoot till wet with brake cleaner, air dry. - Shake can until sore. - Shoot as above. Invert can and clear, as above. - Pull the nozzle off and stick it on the brake cleaner can and shoot & wipe clean a couple of times. - Wait 24 hours, then three hours at 195F in the oven. Does NOT smell, wife certified. Perfect bond, no nozzle issues ever. Much happiness. And yes, Dark Earth is the real FDE. Total coincidence: I saw this video three minutes after putting a gas tube and bolt catch in the oven.
@@MAGAMAN incorrect many do, I’ve got 2. One is biological the other is my step dad, both are dad as they both act the part. I’m in my mid 30s and both are still my dads. Yes I have a mother, she’s the reason I’ve got 2 dads and a handful of others who applied for the title.
The color of the cap will never match the color in the can exactly because it is made of plastic, not paint. You would have to be dumb to not realize this.
The sprayable rattle can version of Duracoat seems pretty decent as well. Used that the other day with good success. I think regardless of who you go with, prep adequately, read the instructions, and follow basic painting techniques.
My experience has been that if used immediately after application, it is like spray paint and not durable. BUT, if you leave it sit for two weeks after application to cure, it is very durable and resistant to most chemicals. I love it.
That's what I do. Spray it on, then put it away for two weeks (someplace warm) and don't touch it until then. It's great stull. I love it. Very durable.
@@intrusive_thoughts. I usually use Alumahyde on plastic, optics, things I don't want to bake. If I'm going to bake it, I use Gunkote with my airbrush.
You can put some acetone in a small jar and drop the nozzle in it in between coats and once you're done for a final cleaning. Clean the nozzle out with Q-tips and even blow air through it after soaking in the acetone to avoid clogging and/or splatter. The nozzle along with the pick-up tube can be cleaned this way.
AlumaHyde ROCKS! I use up the rest of the can on farm implements, shovels, axes, bbq pit touch ups, etc. Works on motorcycle rims, and aluminum propellers, ProTip: Keep extra spraying nozzles ready to go in a small container of acetone. I use my compressor air gun and blow out the nozzles after a soak in acetone
Thanks for sharing this info Caleb! You know I've been an Aluma-Hyde fan for some time and have done a number of projects with this stuff. Having those clean out nozzles is so handy. Shaking, shaking, shaking the can(that's 3 shots...need another) shake the can again. Hopefully in your series you can discuss a little bit about using multiple colors/layers. This get pretty tricky in my opinion as Aluma-Hyde seems to lay on fairly thick. Anyways, thanks again for sharing your tips! Looking forward to more Aluma-hyde videos!
Warming the cans in very warm water aids in mixing it up, while shaking. Always check the amount of distance to surface, printed on the can and test spray it on cardboard or heavy paper first.
Been wanting to buy some Aluma Hyde in various colors but waiting until they finish the how to series. They should also include the cleaning nozzle with every can.
Been working with this stuff for awhile. Before use, set it in the sun for a good hour, Shake the shit out of it. No shit 10 to 15 min. Try and use the whole can at once, if you decide not to use it all in in one run, turn the can upside down and spray till just air comes out. Store upside down until next use. Repeat.
This is a really good paint. It's not as good as Gun Kote or Cerakote, but for essentially rattle can it rocks. I have used it several times mainly on trigger guards and it holds up very well. It would make a first rate cammo for a gun.
I use Aluma-Hyde on a lot of non-gun stuff. Basically anything that is handled a lot that I do not want scratched, like my Ghostbusters Proton Pack I use for cosplay and conventions.
Good advise Caleb. For anyone thinking about using it Aluma-Hyde does a really good job if you follow the instructions and take your time. Also after allowing it to dry thoroughly it seems to be a very durable finish. The clear coat is good to finish it off with adding a layer between the paint job and the world of "crap that hurt".
As soon as I get done with the spray can I drop the nozzle into a small jar of laquer thinner. When I'm ready use the spray again I get the nozzle out of the laquer thinner. Holding the can upside down and clearing out the tube does help keep the system working.
The Grey Parkerizing Color is fabulous as a Military Finish. Did several Retro AR15. Use Blue Masking Tape and Execto Hobby Knife for fine detailing with Tape. I set up my Attic as a Work Shop for this Project....painted light 1st coat one night, 2nd next night. Let it cure for 2+ weeks in the Hot Summer Attic before taking Tape off and reassembling. Have used OD Green and FDE too, but love the Grey Parkerizing* They make 2 Shades of Grey Parkerizing, I used the lighter one, which when dry almost looks Grey Green. Prep with Brownells Products for degreasing and oil on the surface first.
I love it I have had nothing but great results , used 4 different colors 2 guns per can I I still have a ton left , coverage is fast so you don't have alot on the gun of choice to cover for the new finish , good stuff
I’ve used that upside down tube & nozzle clearing technique for decades on all the spray cans I’ve ever used. It works. I’ve gone back to a spray can months (or years?) later, shake well and the paint sprays out like new. 👍
Open in the auto collision business I know a thing or two about paint and I wanted to throw out some spray can tips for you guys. You could take your cans to a paint store and have them put them in the Shaker and that'll get that ball moving and get everything mixed up good for you. Do soak your cans in a big bucket of hot water so hot you can barely put your hand in it will be fine. Dry your cans and shake the water off of them really good before you use, you don't want water droplets landing on your project. Do paint outdoors on a hot dry day. So quick partial recap will mixed paint will spray better. The liquid paint in the can when it's warmed up will atomise better when you spray it which will make a better finish on your project. Low humidity and high temperature outside will help your paint dry. Cool temperatures and high humidity will trap moisture in your paint layers and it will take a long time for it to all dry out. If that's the only environment you have to paint in go to the paint store and get a heat gun. It'll put out the kind of heat that will melt plastic and burn your skin what you want to do is be 12 to 18 inches away from your project and warm up the thing you're spraying not quite to the point where it's uncomfortable to touch but that's pretty close and that each coat let it sit for 10 to 15 20 minutes if you come back at warm it up again for the next coat. Don't make each layer of paint super-heavy it's better to build up multiple thin layers. Keep some lacquer thinner handy to clean out your nozzle tips when they get dirty and clean them before you put them away.
Funny this gets posted just as my parts get removed from the oven! I used Alumahyde ODG and my AR15 is looking great! Thank you guys for the awesome product!
I recently sprayed this on the barrel and receiver of my turkey gun. It looks great and seems durable. I wish I had only done 2 coats because this stuff is thicker. The color on the lid looks nothing like the color on the firearm, which worked out for me because i actually like it better. I heated up the can in some boiling water and preheated the parts which seemed to help it cure very quick. Only real complaint is that towards the end of painting I started to get a few clumps coming out. Not a big deal as this gun is a "work" gun not a show piece, but would be nice to know how to avoid it. Sounds like I should have used the clean out tips I have. I hope that if you do a video series you cover spraying camo patterns with vinyl stencils because I'm very curious if there's anything special that needs done.
Did you stop and shake the can during painting? If you start getting buildup on the nozzle, wipe the nozzle with a damp rag, then spray some cardboard or other material to see if the clumps are gone.
If you have empty cans,pull off the nozzles and spray a little carb cleaner thru them and save in a jelly jar. I frequently make clean out nozzles by just drilling out the spray orifice on a regular nozzle.
Works great for me, every can i get i spray for 5 seconds on cardbord to get all the goop splatter out, then spray my well prepped pieces, 3-4 coats, final coat is a dust coat, after 10 mins it goes into the oven for 30m @175f
Perfect timing I was about to toss out 3/4 can of FFE I was in in the middle of painting my turkey barrel and the van stopped spraying I will try one of those clean out nozzles hope that works
Also check magazine fit after painting. I leave the top which fits into the mag well clear of paint. I color code mags of one type vs another so "no mistake" when the thrill of battle be upon ye!
A few things to say here. First I love this stuff. Works very well, and I do spray a little further away because I prefer the slightly rougher finish. Gives an excellent grip! As for the can shaking, wrap the can in a towel(zip ties on towel ends) and toss in the dryer for 20 to 30 minutes. Well shaken and warmed up perfectly. My one grip: I bought a can of the coyote color aluma hyde 2, but the paint is green. I've contacted Brownells but no one will or has ever responded. Obviously a mislabeled can but no offers to replace it. Otherwise its great stuff.
I just got a notification that I was hoping it was for a BRN-22R takedown 😢. But it was for aluma hyde. But now I've watched some videos that made me not sure about the aluma hyde. Sure hope those BRN-22R takedown comes in soon. 😅
It does require curing time....the longer the harder it dries....i put an AK barreled receiver in my gas grill once on low for a couple hrs, it cured it perfectly
I would really like to see a full length video on how to apply this finish to a firearm. I would also like to be able to buy a blue-black version of this finish.
Caleb FYI some newer spray paint has a new nozzle that will continue to spray paint with can held upside down. Krylon is the one I am most familiar with and their instructions no longer state to hold can upside down to clean the nozzle. I am not sure about your claim that Alumi-Hyde II is the toughest paint in a rattle can. Duracoat's two part coating comes in a spray can.
I love the rifle I painted with the Aluma Hyde II in Magpul FDE. Very durable finish and it looks great. Lightweight AR15 I slapped together based on an FDE KP15 lower. Great video as always
How closely does it match actual Magpul FDE polymer accessors like stocks, grips, etc? I’ve heard from a lot of different folks that the Aluma Hyde Magpul colors don’t actually match the true Magpul color, so that’s really unfortunate if true.
Aluma-Hyde II Top 5 Rules to Abide!!! 1.) Never ever nozzle anything you do not wish to spray. 2.) Make sure you know what's beyond your painting surface. 3.) Never leave a nozzle armed with paint. Always clear the nozzle before storing. 4.) Practice your shake technique and your dry spraying with an empty can. 5.) Paint straws can be purchased to control the spray but there is a 2 week waiting period.
I haven't used this "Spray Paint" yet, but it sounds like it is really thick stuff!? I suggest making a few trial sprays on a scrap of cardboard before starting your project. And after you are done, always cleaning your spray nozzles with paint thinner.
Way I do it this: degrease parts. I scrub with Dawn and a toothbrush, then rinse till all soap is gone. Dry off with a hair dryer, heat gun, or in the oven for a while at low temp. If you have hard water or any deposits left, blast the parts with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Then, with degreased hands, apply masking tape if needed. Paint can is left in hot water or under a running tap for 10 minutes, then shaken. In between coats, I turn the can upside down and spray on to some junk untill the paint is blown out of the nozzle, then it’s left in hot water for a bit and shaken again. If you do your parts and put down an even coat the results look practically like it came that way from the factory.
Love the stuff, the last one i bought i didn't use right away and it somehow hardened in the can...never seen that happen before with all the others I have used through the years
great content great advice now all I need to o is be able to afford the Aluma-hyde II, otherwise I would not be buying rattle can paint. besides the fact that rattle can paint, doesn't cost a fortune when you make a mistake, but I have never used Aluma-Hyde, I cant afford it
I have a question. Why is the desert tan and fde never in stock? Obviously it’s extremely popular and I’m guessing your best sellers so why not make more of these colors than the other less popular colors like black that are always in stock? Anyway good video
Goldens coat keeps them cool. The dense undercoat traps air between the two layers of the coat, which insulates the dog and helps regulate its body temperature. The outer coat is water-repellent and protects the dog from wet environments and the sun. Your dog has reason to be mad.
I waited months just to buy aluma-hyde II, I've been waiting months since I bought it for the clean out nozzles. They must be made out of *unobtainium*?? After waiting months, received an email at 2:35am, tried to order when I woke up only to find out they're already sold out. Did y'all only order a few? Maybe check to see how many folks are waiting and adjust your next order!? Now I'm worried about the shelf life of the product...
If only you made it in Foliage Green, I could perfectly match my hand guard to my buttstock and grip. I started my build right as everyone was discontinuing that color. I chose poorly.
Ive had issues with alumaHyde ll and messed up an AR handguard. My friend figured out if he placed the can in hot tap water for 10 min. It smoothed it out and it worked fine. Maybe another tip for a better outcome
I hear that heating the can in warm water before painting will provide a more even spray(no globs spitting out etc). Fact or Fiction Caleb? Also what is the life of unused cans. THX
