Quickly Replacing Leaky Vent 

I try to still do this in January, it depends on the customer

The floor is about to get painted usually there is shelving on the outer perimeter. Yet I always have enough space when working here.

I sprayed wd on the tank before painting. Made cleanup easier. Wonder how many watched the last 2 minutes to see the paint job. I forgot to edit out where i said the videos done, then found the another can of paint to fix up the air scoop.

should i shut the furnace too?

I usually wire brush the area after installing new bleader valve however I’m sure he did this for the video, lol

I had the Honeywell where the black plastic and brass threaded together blow apart. Solid expansion tank sitting right on top of gauge. I was there replacing an induced on a Utica power vented boiler. First water started spraying out the pump flanges.

Thanks Eddie with my regular paint can getting plugged up I had to use the paint I bought to paint up my calipers.

....wrap an old belt around it...and use lever to add leverage...but my experience is it's not worth the $10....i.e. get a new one.

I never had a problem getting them out. If it was put in with Xpando, heating it up may not work. I never tried getting the guts out. I do to turn them in for scrap.

@@The-Powell-Group The vent alone is $160 and the whole scoop is nearly $300.

Yesterday, I successfully got this valve replaced. In order to accomplish it, I took the top off the air eliminator, removed all the plastic and rubber bits, then stuck it in the oven at 350 for 45 minutes. This darkened the green paint a bit, but it heat up the cast iron enough that with a two foot long pipe wrench and the really hot green piece in a vice, I was eventually able to apply enough pressure to both destroy the metalic valve and get the valve to come out of the air eliminator top. I had a replacement on hand, so I didn't mind destroying the one I was removing. I was seriously nervous that I was going to rip the valve head off the threads, but fortunately that didn't happen for me. I sprayed a little wd40 into inside of the valve body to try to shrink it a bit (with the cap still on, but the guts all out) and about 10-15 minutes later, after a LOT of persuasion, it finally budged.

It had a little rust on it from the air vent leaking. I painted it two years ago when swapping the last vent. Things I I do for good customers, that most likely, they never will know.

Very good reason and many thanks for the reply's

Lots of videos where I’m working in old homes, steam systems and asbestos on the piping

Your pump will operate a bit more efficiently (and lower risk of cavitation) if you run the pressure up a bit, to 30-40 psi.

The cap has to remain open on most systems. Only time it would be kept closed is if the system has glycol in it. ( such as systems the do driveway melt or have potential to freeze. )The valve lets any air in the system escape. If air becomes trapped water stops flowing through the zone.

Looks like just a standard high heat caliper paint you can get at any autoparts store or the usual home depot/lowes

Yes you got it

I think i didn't have any teflon and they both work. I have used neversieze and it never leaked. just needs little something to complete the seal. Just never get any sealant into the opening or it may hang up the rubber float and leak

When it’s our install depending on town we put a ball valve and remove the handle. Some town inspectors will fail an install if a valve is between the tank.

Honeywell makes some nice zone valves easy to install

Those are Honeywell as Anthony mentioned. Honeywell zone valves are the most common to run into, followed by Erie, then the misunderstood taco zone valve

That bladder i find is delicate. even purging air from a loop can rupture the diaphragm in the tank. Yet I always thought the tank needed to be charged with air with no pressure against from the water side.

@@thehvachacker your right it's supposed to be empty but unless you take it off how do you know it's empty. So what I was saying was to check air pressure before you release air so you know how much was in it. If it's way to low ajust accordingly. Never had an issue doing it that way. Removing all the water can break the bladder to

Just how I've done it. Works for me a guess.

Yes one day we will have the maid along with heated driveways

Removing rust before painting

@@thehvachackerwhy paint it? Impress for customer, no one is going to see it or care anyhow.

@@canlib the boiler is in a space the homeowner uses often. Mabey not many will see it. Yet customers do like their equipment taken care of.

thats just ridiculous in my opinion . But I cant imagine somone would need 2 weeks salary for that job.

Why would anything other than the leaky valve need to be replaced? Very rare do I need to bleed after swapping one of these. I think $150 labor and valve.

@@chashandsome2021 Agreed! I was confused by what he said was the scope of the job, etc just to replace that one vent.

@@thehvachacker interesting, I think I have all the right shutoffs as you showed in your video to allow the same sort of simple replacement. I do appreciate your video!

(and your input!) - Merry Christmas!

I would guess it’s blue monster from the color.which blue monster Teflon is rated for gas.

@@thehvachacker is that the stuff that you can't remove

That stuff comes off the blue block thread sealant is a bear to remove. I have had to hit fittings with a touch in order to get some fittings apart.

Or gasolia, my personal favorite

The why is because the air vent leaks water. I’m not sure what you mean by the what-for’s. Please explain so I can understand. Always like to know ways I may make my videos better. Most my videos is me sharing different experiences I run into working as an hvac tech. Yet lots of useful info also ends up in the vids.

@@thehvachacker I think he means, as in what that part does / what is it’s specific roll in the boiler system. Great job. Thanks for the upload. Maybe start carrying around a small regular can of rust oleum along with some little ( disposable) paint brushes.

Nice Franklin Lakes NJ home. Very nice customers, or else I wouldn’t go out of my way to paint the air scoop

Did you see all those zones?

I wanna know 2!

Rust

If I put the red wires together that’s the end switch which activates the tt. If I jumped inside the zone control it would be were the end switch lands.

Thank you

True yet this vent wasn’t leaking from the top. Instead the seam that opens allowing the float to be cleaned. Even though ever time I tried to clean they leak.

Hi John my name is Bill, hazelish brown and brown hair, Italian Irish with a polish wife.

My only thought for the grey paint would be to detect future leakage easier with a clean air eliminator vs a rusty one.

Hi hater. It looks great.

Pipe dope

Do you need a particular type? Can you use teflon tape? @@voosum

@@EDWARDLOMBARDI-z8i read the instructions for the valve you are installing. they will tell you tape or dope

Any sealant can be used on the air vent.