If you are willing to take advice from someone who has a lot of experience installing and repairing diesel heaters. My number one tip is, just because it came with the kit does not mean that you should use it, for example the so called green fuel line should never be used because they are made from pvc and not designed for fuel, you want to use the white hard nylon fuel line and rubber fuel line to connect the fuel tank to the fuel filter to the fuel pump and then to the heater. You did do a good job with the exhaust system. Did you really zip tie the intake hose to the exhaust pipe of the van, big no no. Here's another tip, on your mounting plate above the hole for the intake is a notch for the electrical connector for the fuel pump. When I do installs, I throw away about 90 percent of the kit because it is just junk and won't last long. Another tip is, when you are looking for one to buy find one with the metal housing. I hope this helps you out
You should be proud of yourself - most folks don't get off the couch. Apart from a few times when I threw up from the camera movement, it was a good video.
Awesome Jay!!! I also installed a diesel heater in my van. It's a lot of drilling and sawing. These heaters are way better than the mr. buddy heater I used for 6 years. I liked and subscribed. 👍👍
Nice install! I'm finishing my cargo trailer conversion and will be installing one too. I suggest you extend the heater vent hose past your inverter; you want to keep that as cool as possible.
But don’t forget that the intake is for combustion air. If it’s too close to the exhaust the heater will run less efficiently - it won’t be dangerous….
@Black Magic He was talking about the fact that he zip tied the intake tube to his van's exhaust, not that he mounted it near the combustion intake. I thought the same until I watched him zipping them tight.
@Black Magic I have seen several people mount the whole unit outside and then complain that they can smell the exhaust they're sucking into their van. Smh
Really good install. I was confused as to why you cut your floor to fit the heater down into until I realized you needed the intake and exhaust to protude down through the body panel.
Old-timer Full-timer in Japanese 4wd Bus, four years with 5kw diesel heater, in Pacific North West. I see this done over and over again. Why not hole saw drill one opening approximately 4inch, as long as covered by mounting plate and sealed properly. Attach intake, exhaust and fuel line first. Then install complete unit in one easy step. I used plumbers pudy to seal mounting plate. I have marine factory plywood subfloor over sheet metal. You can have sheet metal ring fabricated to protect flammable flooring and insulation. This step I did not do, my installation has easy visual access, after four years no heat discoloration of plywood. Much easier installation method, large hole saws are not expensive. This business of drilling multiple holes, in just the right place, mounting the heater and then connecting intake, exhaust and fuel line upside down under floor sucks.
You’re 100% right. I wanted to do it that way but realized I didn’t have a hole saw that big and when I went to the store I thought they were pretty pricey so I decided to take my chances hahaha
Good step-by-step. For reference, the next time (probably not that often, but...) you run into a situation in which you're thinking about cutting some wires so that you do not have to drill a big hole for a connector, if you are again about to cut the wires so close to the internal end of the harness, you might consider unwrapping the harness tape (looks like there was only three inches or less) at that end of the harness and then removing the wires from the connector (they slide out by using a pointed object to free them) so that you don't have to cut and repair. If you're used to it, cutting and repairing can be easier (and more fun) than what I just suggested. But I think I would have gone with taking the wires out of the connector. Just an observation and my thoughts. At any rate, nice vid, easy to follow.
I suspended my pump from zip ties and it makes it quieter but i need to go back and do it again to make it sit on more of an angle as i did mine in a rush as i need to use my caravan and make it more neat oh and change out the fuel line and get a different fuel tank as it leaks out of the breather during transport not to mention its clear so the fuel will go bad rather quickly
@jayxnina yeh its a work in progress but I run my heater on lowest setting 8⁰c to 12⁰c keeps the fan noise low and pumps out enough heat for a 18ft poptop caravan (5kw heater)
Good catch! You’re absolutely right. In 22:33 I wasn't thinking straight--was a little too focused on talking to the camera. I remounted it shortly after lol.
Nice job. Maybe a little too good cause chances are you will have to remove the heater sometime down the road to service it. Clean carbon build up. Depending on how low you run it. I’ve been using these heater in my garage for several years and periodically I have to service them. I have had to change bearings in the motor as well because they get noisy and definitely clean the carbon. That’s about all you have to worry about.
Hi there. Thanks for the video. One question... do you need to open the fuel tank when you use the heater so that it breathes rather than causing suction then vacuum then finally starving fuel?
Nope! There is a little hole in the gas cap for the container which allows it to breathe! Only downside is that you shouldn’t top off the tank completely since driving over bumps and stuff will cause diesel to leak out and cause your van to smell like fumes.
That is good. Thanks. I am just about to install one of these heaters with a full size 20 litre Gerry can and rather than having to open the can to breathe (as it will be outside), I am going to use one of those moto-cross one way breather valves for their petrol tanks on the can so it will won't need touching and won't splash or vent fumes out. I thought we may need more than 10 litres occasionally as we will be on/off grid for over a year in 2023 around Australia. I have been surprised to find that no-one seems to be using this sort of valve in this situation. Thanks for the very prompt response. Graham R. South Australia.
Great job, well done! The obvious issues, out of concern for your safety, have been mentioned already. What I want to know, please, can you hear the pump ticking? Thanks.
Not nearly like you did before. If it is completely quiet and you listen for it-you will be able to vaguely vaguely hear it just because its so familiar hahaha
@@jayxnina Fast response! Had not noticed the 4 month follow up, which I then watched. Thanks again, I do think placing that pump outside is the better install. Happy New Year
Yep, some say 15 to 30 degrees but I talked to a guy that installs diesel heaters in semi trucks and he said it is better to tilt the fuel pump at a 45 degree angle. That's what I did. I have used my heater for 3 winters in Wisconsin where I live and the heater works great.
As others have noted, 'the zip tied air intake, pump angle & green fuel lines'. You need to rethink that electrical connection(s) Those should have shrink wrap on each lead - soldered, then shrink wrapped. The wires will not hold up very long just twisted together and wrapped in black tape. Vibration & corrosion will cause a bad connection. ---otherwise Good job P.S. keep an eye on the fuel tank barb. The 'O' rings supplied tend to leak in about a year. The vendors should have provided NITRILE 'O' rings for this application. I used the fuel standpipe because of worry about leaks
@@jayxnina You are welcome. I have subbed & binge watched your other vids - Great content, I have major envy for the RV life, just can't get away even for a week!
@@jayxnina not only did you do that i think you zip-tied the air intake to the exhaust and you don't just sawist and tape wires together that's lazy and can kill you
I’ve never seen someone cut so much floor out, all you have between the warmth in the van and the cold outside is a thin sheet of floor metal that will now condensate in cold weather. Who have you seen install a heater like that?
It’s important to mount the heater directly to metal because it gets so hot that it can burn other things around it. I don’t think I’ve seen any installs done using any other method besides installing the heater before the flooring. Yes it will create a spot for condensation, but in winter unless you have all of your insulation professionally spray foamed, you will be battling condensation all over. No it’s not ideal, but you’ve gotta do the best you can with a budget build🤷🏼♂️
@@jayxnina you should use a turret, it’s much better quality metal and won’t rust with any condensation. The only place I get condensation is my windows, not on any metal. My turret plate cost me £20.
First, replace that cheap green fuel line. It's dangerous. I know it was sent with your heater but it not good for fuel and can cause a fire (it's air line used for your aquarium) Do some research and get the hard line with the rubber couplers. Second, the filter should be installed between the tank and the pump, (and your filter is on BACKWARDS) The pump should be mounted 45 degree angle facing up. Third, you don't use zipties to mount things to your exhaust pipe! WTF? Its EXHAUST and gets hot. Zipties are plastic. If you drove any distance at all, your intake filter is melted to the exhaust pipe, BRILLIANT! You need help installing that heater or you will be going down the road ON FIRE!!
mounting plastic intake to exhaust is not smart. temperature can melt it and make a fire. Also advice you to put 2 muflers on exhaust and one on intake...it will reduce noise ca 50 %
The first time this guy uses his van to drive around is the last time that he is going to be able to use that fresh air intake very good because it is just going to melt the shit out of that plastic so if you do this don’t be dumb like this guy in sick Tyler fresher intakefiltered to the exhaust of your vehicle. Please don’t do that.
The filter will leak after awhile the rubber seal isn't diesel compatible and the nipples on the filter break easy just something you will have the check you can also use a Briggs and Stratton fuel filter the pancake fuel filters and upgrade your fuel lines to tygon fuel line 5/16ths I believe then you wont have to worry about fuel leaks other than that your setup looks good 👍
