Radius Arm Removal | Triumph Spitfire Restoration - Part 14

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On this episode of Steves Project Car Garage, I remove the Radius Arms of my 1969 Triumph Spitfire. Not all goes to plan... Decisions were made, and grinders were required.
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Опубликовано:

29 мар 2021

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Комментарии : 21

@paulfanning7059 3 года назад

Two things I find very useful before starting to torque into rusted fasteners is to wire wheel the exposed threads and ends of the fasteners and then to soak it, preferably overnight, with penetrating fluid. My personal favourite is PB Blaster but there are lots of others. WD40 is only so-so for this job.

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

You are 100% right. I went into this specific project very unprepared and I ended up having to get more aggressive than needed. Hopefully it just cost me two brackets.

@roundtailrestoration 3 года назад

Yup, remember the same problems. There is a bolt-head keeper on those brackets for the radius arm ends - both sides if I remember right. Just something to prevent the bolt head from turning. Pain in the rear and I stripped one out. I don't think they're on the new ones if you buy from Rimmer's or similar.

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

Ahhh so on one side it had what seemed like a nut then the bolt head, and on the other side it was just the bolt and nut.

@roundtailrestoration 3 года назад

@@StevesProjectCarGarage I didn't explain it very well. Let me see if I can find a pic and I'll send it to you via email.

@TheLowerman 3 года назад

Great video Steve, same problem here n the passenger side. Damn bolt is seized in the bushing. Hit it with WD 40, ( not a sponsor) and will try again this weekend

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

Thank you! I found that heat helped more than anything but the threads were so gummed up with undercoating that they were just rounding the bolt heads.

@WoodAndRestoration 3 года назад

Hey Steve, do yourself a favor and get an oscillating tool with some carbide blades. You’re probably going to have the same problem on all the front control arms as well. Use the oscillating tool to cut between the yolk and the control arm, right through the bushing, on both sides. Use tons of cutting fluid and plenty of pressure or you’ll work harden the bolts. Also on the front you can remove the entire front suspension from the car with like 6 bolts per side, that will give you way better access to deal with rusted bushings.

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

Thanks for the tip on the oscillating tool. I have been wanting to get one for a while for various projects around the house. You might have just sold me on getting one. Once I get the floors and sills done I will be removing the body from the frame and completely tearing the frame down so I will definitely be taking the front suspension towers off if I get bold enough. I hear that if you don’t keep meticulous track of the spacers you can get in serious trouble come reassembly.

@WoodAndRestoration 3 года назад

@@StevesProjectCarGarage i’ve pulled 2 spits completely apart, it went sooo much faster the second time with the oscillating tool. It was also needed pulling the rear trunions apart.

@roundtailrestoration 3 года назад

I did not have to replace the heelboard. My concern would be what's behind those metal plates the PO put in. That is a structural tie from the rear suspension to the body and gets a lot of stress, so I'd be concerned about the health of the metal underneath that plate. Looking at the other repairs, you'll probably have a good idea on how well the PO worked and if you think there's a good chance of having rusted metal behind that (don't know why else they would do it). I'd try to do the whole thing, but again, I didn't have to do it.

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

Ironically I was watching your video on the floor pan fitting where you discovered the additional B post issues. I concur that replacing the whole heelboard is going to be for the best. As you and I had chatted in email I think that approach is the one I will be taking.

@gilbertwilliams4725 3 года назад

Working on a '70 Spit with similar issues. Looking for your thoughts on the B pillar rebuild. Thanks, keep it coming. Gil

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

Hey Gil! Thanks for watching. The B pillar shouldn’t be all that difficult for me seeing as I am removing the heelboard. Rimmers has replacement patch panels which should be here soon that I am going to use to fix the lower B pillars. By the time I am done I will have replaced 90% of the lower 4” of the car.

@spellacy29 3 года назад

I had exactly the same problem when I changed all my suspension bushes last year. You clearly have more patience than me though as I got my grinder out way sooner than you did! 😂

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

Im glad that I am not alone. My big issue was all of the undercoating that was covering the bolts and nuts. It was all gummed up in the threads. I was hoping that the heat would melt some of it off, and it did, but still....

@darwinratze4650 3 года назад

Remove all of the heelboard but do it in sections. One half at a time. Keeps more rigidity that way. Use your air chisel with the flat insert to loosen stuck bolts after soaking them overnight in wd40. I have dine a lot of this work several times over the last 20 years of owning a 1968 spitfire. Also join WWW.British car forum.com. There are many Triumph guys on there that would be glad to offer their knowledge and support. I joined right after I started rebuilding my spitfire and they saved me a ton of work.

@StevesProjectCarGarage 3 года назад

Thank you for all of the advice! I just signed up for the forum. You can find me on there as SteveTheBrewer. I appreciate all the insight!!