Great video, Dylan. Some solid tips/tricks there. I always love hearing/seeing how other people do things. There are always a million ways to do something and everyone’s mileage may vary but it’s great to see what’s worked for you. I always use the “you can do it however you want, but this is what I found to work best for me” mentality. I couldn’t agree more on the stock fender liner and brake stuff. Some people really over complicate simple things like that. Big thing is securing whatever it is you decide to use. I personally use weld nuts for everything and you won’t find a plastic clip or through bolt on my cars. I haven’t seen the need to spend a few hours and $100 in material to make my own fender liners when the Chinese re pops for $8 each have worked thus far. I enjoy watching these videos and glad you take the time to do it because I can’t seem to find the motivation lol.
Once again, really good practical tips, Dylan. Well done! Re the underbody protection: I used HDPE plastic and glued it to sections of aluminium which I attached to the underside using rivnuts through the floor. It adds more weight but it keeps the plastic flat and you can bend the leading edge up to protect the front foot wells. I also allowed the plastic to protrude out the sides a few inches to protect the sills (you call them rocker covers?).
Any thoughts on using lock nuts for exhaust bolts? Not nylock of course, but there are other solutions out there that are metal only. I assume safety wire would be too much of a pain for removals
@KevanB I use lock washers and that seems to be most effective. Serrated face nuts come off almost immediately. Even lock washers with regular nuts will come loose unpredictably with the extreme flex/conditions. Rocks and such erode and smash bolt heads, threads, etc so I skip safety wire in this case and simply replace or retighten the hardware on a regular cadence at rallies and during reprep
