A quick look at rally wheels and how they are different from normal production wheels and other racing wheels. Learn more about us at teamoneil.com Click here to book a course: teamoneil.com/driving-courses/
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Zarrick we all go down a rabbit hole at some point. Looking at buying a rally car knowing damn well I can't afford one see the price and say well I'll book mark that shit for later. Lmfao.
Great point made about how a steel wheel will take most of a hit and save the suspension. I was already leaning towards rally-like alloy wheels for snow tires on my daily, but now I'm much more open to using steelies instead.
For snow tires on a normal daily drive I would go steel. If you do kerb it the wheel will buckle, but you will still be able to get home. An alloy, especially a lower end one will much more likely break and collapse especially in the colder weather.
Back in the 80s and early 90s, Audi offered its Fuchs rally wheels as an option on all the Quattro models, from the Coupe to the 5000/200. They even color-matched them to the pearl white paintjob.
Starter low budget rally car for next video?. One of my goals is rally on a low budget, i'm only 19 years and i saving to buy some kinda wagon or station wagon for traying to rally and thing as that.
Sportyish subies are great starters seeing that most come with awd and at least 140 hp. A Honda Civic hatchback is also a great fwd car, perfect for entry racing cheap. The first thing you always have to do is get some suspension and wheels/tires, see if you can find some cheap old enkei rally rims, I've always used them and I'd trust them with my life
Excellent vid, I troll around the net and try to learn something new each day. Your vid has explained more about rims then I thought I needed to know, and none of it was useless. Thank you for adding a bit to my bank of info.
Good God man! That's a lot of info, but it;s well presented, and waaaaay more info than most presenters give laymen such as myself. This reminded me of weekends sent with my uncle when I was 12, and the welding/mechanical/technical info came shooting at me a mile a minute. Thanks and well done!
That was super cool, I could've guessed about the material being different but I would've never considered a difference in diameters on the same wheel. Fascinating stuff
Could you guys go over suspension setups? For example ride height; higher vs lower ride height or having it offset (higher front lower rear or vice versa) or if soft vs stiff is better for bumps/cornering at certain speeds or if an offset would be better (such as stiffer front/softer rear or vice versa). Obviously softer would be better for bump absorption but when does soft/stiff or high/low affect cornering, body roll, bump absorption, and stability negatively? Things like that. Thanks for the great info btw!
"If the colleges were better, if they really had it, you would need to get the police at the gates to keep order in the inrushing multitude. See in college how we thwart the natural love of learning by leaving the natural method of teaching what each wishes to learn, and insisting that you shall learn what you have no taste or capacity for. The college, which should be a place of delightful labor, is made odious and unhealthy, and the young men are tempted to frivolous amusements to rally their jaded spirits. I would have the studies elective. Scholarship is to be created not by compulsion, but by awakening a pure interest in knowledge. The wise instructor accomplishes this by opening to his pupils precisely the attractions the study has for himself. The marking is a system for schools, not for the college; for boys, not for men; and it is an ungracious work to put on a professor." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
Now I wanna see a series of just taking different styled rims and seeing how much abuse they can take. Everything from big fancy pickup rims, to old beater rims. Ire would be interesting to see how spoke sizes and numbers affect the wheel along with the quality of the metal that makes it.
A good thing with steelies besides being cheap to buy and taking the hit for suspension components is that it bends but often keeps the tire seated and air in the tire. An alloy will often break and thus deflate the tire instantly. I’d much rather wobble my way to the finish line with air still in the tire instead of a broken wheel and deflated tire.
Love the mentioning of inserts for larger hubs. In a factory where I work we have cord weaving machines. Very high RPM high performance stuff. Motors in there are made of aluminium and after a while shaft bearings beat those aluminium walls so that they don't fit anymore. So the company attempted to put a steel ring between the shaft bearing and the motor body and boy was it a failure. Turns out if there is precise fit of steel to aluminium it works decently. But once there is a fit of steel to steel to aluminium that motor just eats shit and dies. My guess is that the steel ring in between is just easier to hammer to different proportions and then it transfers that distortion in to the motor wall.
I mostly jumped a ditch in my 68 Rolla at about 95 mph. The front tires hit the far side first, bounced, almost did an end over...landed with the front tires pointing away from each other. Centerlink was bowed pretty badly but the steelies were fine.
I'm looking at getting a set of wheels for my rally car. I am looking at Konig Dial-Ins and Revolution GR14 and I was wondering what Team O'Neil had to say about those 2 options?
would you guys consider selling second hand rims you've got sitting around collecting dust? (assuming there are some sitting around ... most car guys have a plethora of random stuff sitting around taking up space) i would be very interested to know if you would be open to something like that! doesn't hurt to ask!
I had steel wheels on my car, first outing at Rallycross they handled it alright, but last run of the day I seriously broke a wheel, the whole center of it broke away from the rest. It may hold up better to sharp impacts because it's less rigid but I don't see an aluminum wheel tearing like that under heavy strain
First time I found your vids and have watched Everyone 1after another and subscribed could you go over engines as in v8 vs inline4 turbo which is best I do know turbo is better for higher altitude but other than that
Would you recommend the OZ Rally Racing (2017 New Edition) as a winter wheel for a daily driven GT86? I'm running Sparco Assetto Gara for the summer and want something nicer than OEM wheels for the winter soon. Thought you might have enough experience to give a clue :-D
Heavier wheels makes the brakes work harder as well as your motor. Slower acceleration also.lighter wheel is able to rotate easier which also saves fuel milage so its better when its a smooth road
You don't run antilag systems on entry-level cars. You run them when you can afford to frequently replace your turbo, parts of your exhaust, and your engine every once in a while.
If I was doing rallycross/khanacross and using like, used/second hand rally tyres, would steel wheels be able to run them or would they bend with the stiffness of the tyre
What size rim would you suggest for rally racing? I saw o.z starts at 17” but dynamic only has 15”. I was thinking about making my 02 civic hatchback a rally car.
For gravel, 15" is the only way to go. Those are BY FAR the most common tires. Most teams use 17s for tarmac (but there is very little tarmac in the US and Canada). So 15s.
At 6:00 you talked about the actual design of that particular wheel. So looking at the M-Sport wheels they don't have large open spokes, are they designed that way to keep most of the debris out? I always wondered if that was the purpose.
I believe the M-sport wheels are also able to have several spokes damaged or missing & they'll still hold the wheel in place. Compomotive TH wheels are a very similar design too.
Thanks for the video as I decide what wheels to get for rallycross events. I've seen steelies sheer off cars at a few rallycross events. I see them as brittle. I wouldn't want to risk it.
The wheels that came on my car are Speedline Chrono's. I heard Speedline is a really good wheel brand and they make rally wheels but does anyone know if the Chrono model is okay for rally? Mine are 17 inch though which I doubt is ideal for rally tires on a first gen impreza.
Those are great wheels BUT you're going to find almost all gravel rally tires are 15". You can get tarmac rally tires in 17" which are like really strong track tires... Check out www.demon-tweeks.com/us/motorsport/wheels-tyres/competition-tyres/rally/#/
Orderd some new wheel and realized they have oval shaped holes. Like perfectly machined oval shaped holes I was wondering if this was done on purpose so they could sell to 4x100 have room to acomodate other stud types.
Where did you get that 4 stud Method wheel? Looks like it would fit on my 2005 Focus ZX3. I have been looking everywhere. Sturdy wheels and tires have been a big problem.
We ordered a special batch directly from Method, they weren't sure if there was enough of a market to justify offering the 4x108 wheels as a normal product... Looking at their site now, apparently not. Check out: www.demon-tweeks.com/us/motorsport/wheels-tyres/competition-wheels/shop-by/pcd/4x108/
@@Teamoneilrally Thanks. They do have something I can use. Funny name. Never ran across it. How about brake and suspension parts? Used rally tires in Maine, NH, Vermont area?
You just said softer and harder aluminum but didn’t say anything about cast wheels, pressure cast wheels and forged wheels. That makes the difference. Other than that this is really educational.
It is a CRIME that OZed discontinued those silver 'disc' style gravel (and tarmac for that matter) wheels in the Fiesta R1 15x6/6.5, 4x108 PCD application, as I wanted those in the WORST way! :( Are they still readily available in the 5x108 applications?
