Hello Odd-Jarle. Thanks for your videos. I have been watching for some time now. I also have a '97 P38 with the GEMS 4.6ltr engine. I bought it some time ago as a long term project to keep the hands and mind busy for the retirement days. So, now i am busy fixing, rebuilding, modifying which makes me look more and more at your videos. Ever since I bought the truck I have started gathering info on it. Well, I now have a book as thick as a telephone directory...and even so, I find that I am always referring to your videos as somehow all that info just does not cover what I am sitting with. Well done. I enjoy and copy a lot of what you do. Willie
Thanks. It's not too bad really. I was a bit scared to start, but once you know how it all goes together it's pretty easy. PS! The name is Odd-Jarle by the way :)
Do you actually need the stop solenoid as my P38 would not start and fitted a new pump in the tank and now fuel gets to the injector pump but still no fuel getting past the injector pump, I have been told to remove the spring and brass fitting in the solenoid and put the fitting back as that is what is preventing fuel getting past the injector pump, I asked if I would need to put new parts in or clean and replace the old ones and was told it wasn't necessary! Were they right? Love your videos.
Dear Odd Thank you for the amazing channel and the useful video, I have Range Rover P38 TDS 2,5 , 2000 model, I changed the injector ( the one with sensor ) I bought it used, from Oslo, but the problem still continue cranking too much to get started after the car in worm, and when I change the gear the car stops. I test it with the computer it says the left injector nozzle fail, I tried to arrange one I couldn't, it's expensive, do you have any idea? or advice. I am living in Norway too. in Ålesund.
Hello teacher. Thank you very much for showing us the way. My pump loses on the right side, I think specifically because of the large nut that has a small nut in the center through which you insert the meter, and that they are between the six pipes that come out of the pump. I wanted to ask you if I could retighten all the screws and especially the two nuts that I mentioned, without altering the setting of the pump ???
Yes @Alan S, there'll be a video for the installation. It'll take a couple of weeks though, because I'm waiting for the timing gauge to arrive. Unfortunatley a few snags surfaced in shipping so sorry about that. Thanks for watching!
@@alanjs1 Runs great! A bit rich though as I've not set timing (lots of black smoke if I floor it),, but big improvement! AC compressor went out, so parked for now and until I can time the fuel pump up.
Hi, I haven't replaced the shaft seal. However you'll need to disassemble the whole pump and then just press out the seal and press in the new seal. Just take care not to damage the seal casing. Pretty straight forward once you get that far. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
@@WorkOnP38 hi thank you. I have gone ahead an got a reconditioned pump but need to turn the shaft to line it up to the sprocket. Did you use the special tool to turn or a set of grips?
hello! my pump started leaking same like yours, i have different part/serial number of the pump, my p38 is from 1999. so how do i find the right bosch seal kit? thanks
Hi Taa. I've tried to write a reply a couple of times. I'll try again. All pumps use the same rebuild kit. If your pump uses the metal plate gaskets instead of o-rings for the advance/retard piston on the bottom you'll need to order those separate. You'll see which the pump uses if you examine the two small side covers. All the part numbers are in the video description. Thanks for watching!
