Typical surf in average waves. This is what it looks like when there is no ground swell in the ocean. That is, most of the time. Nothing to complain about though, it was offshore and still pretty fun!
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Picture-perfect waves, ridden by absolute shredders are everywhere these days. Now let’s be real, most of us did not grow up surfing and do not live in Hawaï. This channel is about sharing what surfing is really like for the average person.
I started surfing at 25 and live in France, so my reality involves a lot of subpar conditions, cold water and sometimes, when the stars align, some epic waves. But be it small, choppy or pumping, I don’t care. As long as I can drop in and do a turn, I am out there!
Shot on the DJI Osmo Action 4, 2.7K (4:3) at 60FPS, with RockSteady.
Board : Olaïan Shortboard 900, 5'10", 30L.
Location : South West France
12 сен 2024
