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Great video. I have a 2011 corolla that has the same issue. I plan on doing this job soon. Also, I prefer the no talking. Too many auto channels blah blah blah.
Hey, thanks for your feedback. I hear ya. I agree. But a lot of people preferred me to talk and another viewer stated "It's OK to talk" because I'm making a video. One other viewer stated that this video was terrible and had no direction, but I don't think some people pay attention to the little details so they miss out on what I show. It's hard to please everyone, but I try my best to do what's best for the viewers. I appreciate your feedback. This was when I was starting out making RU-vid videos so I didn't talk much. I agree sometimes no talking is better and just watching and observing works. I really appreciate that. As for the 2011 Corolla it should be exactly the same procedure as this one. Just make sure whatever tools that you have are strong enough for that big spring because that spring can be a little tricky sometimes.
@@moosemobileautorepair Thanks for the tip. I do 95% of the maintenance on my cars myself and I appreciate quality corolla maintenance videos to supplement the repair guide. Best of luck on your channel.
If you don’t have specialty tools on hand, a screwdriver through the hole you’re trying to slip the spring hook through and wrapped around the hook, pry away from hook, it SHOULD slip into place the majority of the way if not all the way in. Makes it a lot easier for anyone that needs to do this without special tools.
Thanks for posting this very instructive video. It helped me a lot. The first wheel took me a couple hours. I had never done the rear drum brakes before and so I took it slow so as not to miss anything. I too had a devil of a time getting that big spring on. 2nd wheel went a whole lot more quickly. Excellent camera work too. :)
Thanks I appreciate it. I figured that I would film both sides to help everybody out in case they get stuck. Usually after you do the first side the other side becomes a lot easier and you get it done faster as well. As I don't normally do drum brakes all that often the first side is usually the longest and hardest part until you have figured everything out the other side becomes easier to do because you have learned from your mistakes and figured it all out the first time around. Drum brakes on most vehicles don't wear out as fast as regular disc brakes do and so they typically last longer and don't need to be done as often. They only need periodic servicing until they wear out or give you problems then replacement is necessary.
I did this job today and could not get the drum on. Yanking on that park brake cable must have put some tension in the cable. I pulled the PB up and let it drop fully and then the drum fit. The adjustor was all the way in and I also let the bleed screw release any pressure and those did not help.
Is good that you use original parts, not O'Reilly's parts, next week is going to be the 3rd time i change the rear brake pads from my wife's 2010 Corolla 😢
I believe the 2015 Corolla has rear drum brakes in the base model and other lower trim models. Rear disc brakes in the higher trim models such as the S model. Not sure If you're asking about converting from rear drum brakes to rear disc brakes? Let me know.
If I get a high pitch screeching noise from my Corolla 2010 brake drums when braking but it only happens when temps are below 0 Celcius what is the cause ?
Most likely it is just from the moisture/ice build up in the drums and should go away after a few brake applications. Unless if the noise always happens then you should inspect the drums and shoes to see if they are worn out. If the noise only happens once when it is cold the noise will go away after driving normally.
It would be nice if you talked and used the correct tools. Seems like you're just winging it. You're instructions are all over the place, you put down anti seize but then you used brake grease..... Maybe do a voice over version
In some videos I talk and other videos I don't. All depends. In some of my videos I have done voice over, I just didn't do it in this one. Some days I feel rushed and have time constraints while doing some jobs. I film as the jobs come along and depends on the schedule as well. Thanks for the comment and I will take it into consideration in my future videos. I have the correct tools, but didn't use all of them as I felt that the vice grips were easier to use during the job. I will try to use the correct tools in my next drum brake job videos that I may have coming soon. I don't do drum brakes very often so it takes me a while to get used to it once I do one side and then become more efficient in doing the other side. As we all know now, drum brakes are becoming obsolete in today's automotive world, but still exist on some vehicles.
@@moosemobileautorepair it would be nice if you explained what you keep spraying and why you keep rotating the drum. Going to do a replacement soon and would like better clarification that's all.
@@hmoobgamer4686 Ah, I gotcha. 👌I sprayed brake cleaner to clean off all the dirt/residue and brake dust. You want to do that in the beginning so you don't breathe in all of the harmful brake dust, etc. I have done periodic servicing on this vehicle so there was not much brake dust in the beginning. I also sprayed Fluid Film in some spots for rust protection and to help parts move freely. There are 6 contact points you must sand down/clean and lubricate with brake caliper grease once the shoes are removed in order to prevent the shoes from sticking/seizing up. Also clean and lubricate the anchor at the bottom on both sides where the shoes touch. I spin the drum repeatedly to check for drag. You need to adjust the shoes properly so that the drum has minimal drag, but not too much just enough for the shoes to barely touch the inner parts of the drum. Usually when you spin the drum it should spin approx. 1.5 to 2 times, but you do it by feel and adjustment. If the drum keeps spinning too much then you need to adjust it more. If the drum doesn't spin freely at all then you need to back off the adjuster a little bit. This will ensure that the shoes and the parking brake are adjusted properly so that the brakes work well in the end. According to service information and the owner's manual there will be a spec for how many clicks there should be for the parking brake if it is a manual parking brake such as 6 to 9 clicks. If you have adjusted the shoes properly you will have the correct number of clicks on the parking/hand brake. Only do this while the drums are on and secured before pulling the parking brake of course. I hope this helps.
Anti-seize compound would be used for metal to metal contact like on threads, bolts or how I used it for the adjuster on the threads. The brake caliper lubricant/grease would be used on stuff like contact points such as on backing plates, brake pads, caliper pins, etc.
If you are talking about the large thick spring that goes through the adjuster it needs to be going through the bottom as I show it in the video. Everything is put back exactly the same way. You can always use the other side as a reference if you're not sure where the spring or springs goes.
If the drum is stuck you can back off the adjuster from the back through the rubber plug window or you can use two M8 x 1.25 bolts to put them through the drum holes to force the drum off if you are replacing the shoes. Often the shoes will get damaged in most cases so only do this if you are replacing the shoes.
If the drum is stuck you can back off the adjuster from the back through the rubber plug window or you can use two M8 x 1.25 bolts to put them through the drum holes to force the drum off if you are replacing the shoes. Often the shoes will get damaged in most cases so only do this if you are replacing the shoes.
Don't want to be rude buddy... BUT! why did you greased all the hardware and the backing plate IF it's to spray everything with brake cleaner afterward ? you should have cleaned everything before re-installing. you're removing and contaminating the grease you've just put.. ooh well
It's just a light spray of brake cleaner on the shoes after I'm done from all of the work from touching and maneuvering the shoes it's just to be sure no grease/anti-seize is on the friction material. There is nothing wrong with that. The brake cleaner will just evaporate it's not a big deal. Just don't spray too much to the point where you remove the grease from the contact points area, etc. You can always re-service or re-grease the area after replacement anyway in the future if you need to without removing anything. But I haven't had any problems all of these years.
Yes, I have a bunch of specialty tools including the brake spring pliers, but I decided not to use them in this video. Brake spring pliers don't always work for all drum brake applications only for some. So I used vice grips because that was easier for me to use. Most guys would use side cutters/needle nose pliers and flat head screwdrivers to do the job anyway. It doesn't really matter as long as the job gets done properly and there are no problems with the brakes at the end. This video is for demonstration purposes and for reference only. I have other drum brake videos on my channel here where I used some of my specialty tools for drum brakes.
