Rear Diff Rebuild - Assembly - Install - Sportsman 850 & 1000 

You the cake boss with all that frosting on the case halves,🤣🤣. Good job buddy, doing mine right now 👍

Your gears are helical gears and they are stronger in the forward position, weaker in reverse than the straight cut gears. Like a can am xmr rear diff. A regular g2 outlander comes with straight cut gears.

did you have to take the clutch case off too, or just all the control arms?

@OleNasty79 came off can am I to a 21 850 HL and ever since I got it off the floor when I let off the throttle it gives a good clunk...I belive my rear diff may be loose... my question is there a way to tighten it ?

Did you diff hold up my is making the same noise just trying to figure out if I switch the shims around

What is the torque spec on the 4 drive shaft bolts and do you need to use Loctite?

Hey buddy glad to see you got it fixed and yes I did mine different from day one I bought a CanAm Lol 😂 But I saw on Blownbudget channel they use a RS1 diffs in the front of their RZRs which what they said is now being used, something to remember if you need something stronger in the front

Hey bud have you done anything with the quad ? I’m about to rebuild mine and curious how yours is holding

I just rebuilt my front end on a yamaha grizzly and it made that same noise after installation... wondering how yours is holding up. if not does anyone know how to correct this?

hey buddy..can we get an update on how the diff is making out, is everything still good?..im just about to start the job on mine this weekend..

Did you even check the gear lash before you put the ultra gray on?

There's an easy tool to make to get under the needle bearing using a 1/2 in rod... took me 10min to make the tool and 10min to get the bearing out

Screw partszilla I just found Motosport and saved a lot of money pete told me about them

How is it holding up is it worth it ?

My buddy's Wildcat X rear diff was insanely easier than that lol.

Pressing bearings in like with that bearing driver, listen up.... You should never and I do mean "NEVER" press a bearing in by pressing on the inner race. In this case if it went in easy you may not have F'd the bearings. Find the bearing press plate where the outside is the same or smaller then the outer race, turn it around so the flat side contacts the bearing outer race. Do not use the side with the smaller diameter step that contacts only the inner race. You can also use the old bearing to press in the new bearing ether on a press on with a dead blow mallet or even a hammer if you use light taps around the outside. Done it many times and did not hurt anything because I was hitting the old "outer" race to drive in the new bearing. Just remember to NOT hit the inner bearing race with the hammer. I have a plasma cutter so I usually cut out the center and balls from the old bearing so all that is left is the outer race, that way I never have to worry about being sloppy and whacking the inner race. If it is a situation where the outer race may become stuck in the bearing cavity, I use a 12" disc sander and reduce the old bearing outer diameter a little so it will not become stuck in the bearing cavity. If you use the inner race to press in a bearing and then your bearing only last a short time, now you know why. All that press in force was transferring from the inner race to the bearings to the outer race. Bearing NO NOT LIKE being treated like that. How will they let you know? By failing quickly after you do it. To the Olenasty79 dude if I got this wrong sorry, it just looks like your bearing press do hicky was contacting the inner race not the outer race. Next time turn the bearing press plate around and use the flat side, not the stepped side. Hay I did not know.. until I did, by some one telling me what "not" to do. If I can save some people from F'n up some bearings, that is the point.