Nice video, I like the dedication to achieving just the right pre-load. One other method I like to remove the wheel seal from the hub is after removing the two hub lock nuts and outer bearing, put one nut back on the spindle and yank the hub right off the spindle leaving the inner bearing and seal loose on the spindle. This method also doesn't usually destroy the seal.
FWIW, I cut out about five more minutes of fiddling around with the preload, as the outer lock nut kept tightening the Inner lock nut far more than I expected, so I had to back out the inner nut more to get the right clearance.
Nice video. Thanks for the effort to record/show. We converted to discs via a Lugnut4x4 kit. You helped remind me of why that seal is probably leaking now (likely the same reason).
Nice video Last chance garage. Might consider putting bedliner on those fender flares-does a nice job protecting the flares and looks good. Appreciate your FSJ repair videos as they are very helpful for my ongoing 1984 J-10 restoration project here in GA.
Thanks for this video! Over 100 ft-lb is way to much for the axle shaft bolts!!! I torqued them yesterday and teared off one of them. I agree with you that 50 is I absolutely sufficient. Very annoying...
The outer-nut should be holding the inner-nut in place; the tabs that you bend out should be enough to hold the outer-nut from backing off the inner nut. If one won't move, the other shouldn't move either. Until you tighten the outer nut, there is not bending of the tangs around any face of the inner-nut, that's for sure.
Why does my manual for my truck (which is a 70 F250 with this same Dana 60 rear axle) say the hub and axle need removed to remove the brake drum when you clearly had no problem removing it without removing the other stuff?
Different manufacturers specified one of the two configurations, with the drum mounted on the outer surface of the hub (like my Jeep) or fixed to the inner surface of the hub by the wheel studs like your Ford is. I don't know why they would choose one or the other.
There is a certain width of the spindle on which the seal can ride; it's the same diameter, so it should seal. At this point, no grease has leaked past it on my truck.
@@bbsbcv just curious, what would happen if you were to drive with that bearing not spinning freely because the inner seal is pressed in too much? Would the seal just get destroyed, or something worse?
@@2stroke438 : You would likely destroy the seal by the bearing wearing against the inside edge; you would have to REALLY drive that seal down deep into the bore in order for that to happen, though. Ordinarily, it should just sit flush with the edge of the hub.
