dude!! i just did this with a guarder sp110 and im at 325 with .25's and my ROF has gone up tremendously...getting a chrono soon to test it more thanks a bunch!!
on an 11.1 and that weak of a spring I can see you getting pre engagement. I would say starting off with an m120 spring and shortstroking down to your correct fps would be the solution.
If you shortstroke on the piston it helps to lighten the piston and prevent pre engagement but not totally necessary. Take 3 teeth off your sector and then try it with the m100 and see what's up. Your shs spring might be falsely rated.
I run active breaking in a 47rps DSG setup, the motor doesn't heat up more than without active breaking really. Active breaking won't prevent pre-engagement btw, it'll only prevent overspin. If your motor gets abnormally hot with AB, then either something is wrong in your build or with the mosfet, or the mosfet is a really cheap low quality one.
Håkon T. Or you have a ssg build with a 16tpa or lower motor. But no matter what motor you run AB will wear down the motor brushes and the commutator a lot quicker, at least according to Louis brill (owner of brill armory)
I ran AB in a 40rps SSG setup for two years, the brushes had normal wear. The only thing I've noticed is that the motor will get hotter if you fire rapidly in semi-auto. I did build that gearbox with "passive breaking", it had an M130 spring and 2 teeth short stroke, so that may have lessened the negative effects of the active breaking. The mosfet is also computerized, so it probably has slightly gentler active breaking than more basic AB mosfets.
Yea, its the feathering the trigger in semi which AB will cause problems with. If you have a good AB mosfet and a good motor though, the effects will be lessened.
One more question: i read that if you eliminate 1-2-3theeth from the selector gear ( from the delayer side of gear ) you need to eliminate the same ammount of theeth from the end of piston rack..is that true? There are lot of people who say yes and other who say is reccomend but not forced :P
could you possibly make a video on how to reduce overspin besides shortstroking. I know its the best way but in my particular build shortstroking is going to cause problems.
you're at the edge of getting pre engagement. I would suggest bumping it up to an m120 and shortstroking however many teeth you need to get to your fps limit.
It's not totally necessary. That being said, it doesn't hurt to cut down the weight of your piston to remove more teeth. off the piston too. It's only an issue if you remove piston teeth without removing sector teeth because you exasperate pre engagement issues.
This is really helpfull, thanks :) Im thinking about using a M115 progressive spring and short stroke my piston and complement with a hi speed engine and 16:1 gears. Thoughts? im more used to slow rpm and hi FPS because im in a supportfire team but i want to have a good gun on CQB games aswell :P Do you know anything about progressive springs?? Pro´s vs Con´s Thanks and regards from Sweden //Toby
Great video👏 Question: Can i short stroke a stock sector gear? How many teeth should i cut? Thanks more power My set up: -stock gears -M135 spring -11.1v batt -Shs high torque motor
depends how much power you're trying to drop. You can definitely SS a stock gear. Assuming you're trying to get into the 400fps range I would cut 3 to start and see where that puts you
you could? as long as the release tooth is metal though it doesn't really matter. You can short stroke the same amount of teeth on the piston to save weight too but you don't NEED to.
Can I short stroke my piston and gear if only the the last tooth on the piston is metal? Because if I removed the metal tooth wouldn't all the other teeth slowly break down?
Will i risk PME with the below setup? if so what spring should i use and how much should I SS to get rid of it? -Lonex A1 -sp110 -16:1 gears -11.1v 35-70c -swiss cheased SHS 15t
great video. so my stock g&p was shooting ~380 so i down graded the spring to a shs m100 but it was still shooting 395 (i also did compression up grades). so i bought a sp 85 spring and now on semi im getting a lot of double cycles and a lot of lock ups. would this and putting my old spring in fix my problem? if so how many teeth should i cut? i also just another video where they cut the same amount of teeth from the piston. (same side as piston head) thoughts?
i'm new to moding my gearbox. I don't want to crew anything up. I've installed 14:1 gears, a 110 spring and i'm using a shs hs motor. would removing just 1 tooth from the sector make a noticeable improvement in rof, and prevent pre-engagement?
i was thinking i could have gotten a mis marked spring as well. also how much fps loss am i looking at when removing 3 teeth? hopefully at least 40 right ?
Question: i've G&P Magpul m4 DMR i use 11.1 1000mAH,stock g&p gear, stock piston (swees cheesed,eliminated 2nd theeth and 3rd) and SP90 (because italian rule want MAX 330FPS). Yesterday my piston got destroyed like: my 4th and 1st theeth get grind with my gear.. Now my question is: is some weird other problem or i need to do this mod on my gears?
I run 30rps on a v2 with 11.1. The AOE is corrected with Swiss cheese piston. When I pull half way on semi, it shoots full auto. It only shoots semi when I pull the trigger really back fast. I'm new to a Rps setup. Please help.
when short-stroking a ported cylinder is there fps lost if the piston is still coming far enough back to pass the port fully? if so why is that? is it because the spring isnt fully compressed ?
Can you message me on what you do when you build a DSG build? Am looking to build my first DSG with a Siegetek DSG and JG bevel and spur gear but i dont know of anything else to do to make e gun work. Please help!
So I just bought a cyma ak 105 high speed and the semi will shoot burst then go to single or after full auto it goes to single then burst what do I do?
Hey! So I just short stroked my VFC M4, I have a standard motor on it, a 7 metal tooth piston and an ASCU unit. The process went well and the gun works great as performance is concerned but there is a strange thing going on. When I fire on full auto after the 5th or 6th shot the gearbox starts to whistle and I don't know if I should be concerned about this...
I know this is an old video however maybe someone can help me. My fps is normally around 300 fps. However my fps drops after every new mag I run, I load about 80 bbs and the guns shoots 150 fps instead. after about 10 rounds fire it normalizes. Could this be pre- engagement. In other words the nozzle is pull away as the the piston fires resulting in the nozzle just pulling back enough to bleed out the air ? this is after I upgrade the gun with a Mosfet with active braking.
+ShootAirsoftVideos I've run into this issue before. Basically your air nozzle is too loose on your cylinder head and the extra tension of the bbs pushing up on the air nozzle is causing an air leak there for the first couple rounds.
I have a Prometheus SP110, siegetek 14.09 gears, and an 11.1 lipo. I was probably going to short stroke 2-3 teeth off the sector. Will I have to worry about any possible pre engagement in your opinion?
Thanks for the video on an m110 13:1 gears shs high torque I'm getting pre engaging but with an m120 it's not an issue active breaking helped a lot though (thanks you gate titan)
I will first suggest reading the DSG manual the riot has. If you good dsg riotsc manual there's a pdf that you can read through that will tell you everything you need to know about the dsg. I could just spoon feed you a build list but unless you know why after reading the manual, you won't have the understanding you need to actually build a working DSG setup. Message me after you read the manual.
valleyriverarms In my experience removing less then 3 teeth on the release side won't cause any issues unless you've installed a really big tappet delayer chip on the sector gear. Removing too many teeth from the pickup side can actually cause compression issues at very high ROF as the tappet timing will be advanced enough for the sector gear to pull back the tappet plate before the piston is fully forward.
Gotcha, now how exactly do you know if it's pre engaging? I think my gun is but I'm not sure, whenever I shoot it on my 11.1 on semi the piston is visible through the window where the spring guide is, when I shoot it on a 7.4 it's not.
