Nice work. I envy the easily accessible adjusters that the 8 cylinder fuel distributor has. On my 4 cylinder distributor, the adjusters are on the bottom. . After a couple of times of unbolting the thing to access the adjusters I finally just started using a clamp to push in the control plunger. Then a few months later I swapped in a HFM m104, and have been happily k-jetronic free ever since.
Very clever job ! I love that… it validate that this distributors are very sensitive. I don’t know where you are but here in France it is very difficult to find professionals able to fix them… so it is a very good way of tuning them and not very expensive way ! Thanks a lot 👍
I'm lost for words....simply systematic and thorough... Blessed by years of experience and sincere passion... I also maintain my own w126 sec380 m116 engine same jetronic fuel system and w116 450 sel m117 engine in d jetronic fuel system.. Also did a kjet distributor rebuild....but man....yours is most thorough!!! I learned how to do it Better next time... I wish one day, you can content a D Jetronic system....I'm eagerly following your channel. You just made your subscriber..God less for good fortune and long life😇😇😇
Nice job! I need to do the same thing to my 1987 420SEL W126. I wish the fuel distributor on it was as easy to adjust as the older K-Jetronic style. The adjustments on the KE-Jetronic are on the bottom of the fuel distributor, making it a royal pain to adjust. I'd love it if I could find an original Bosch test bench setup, as I believe it has provisions for allowing adjustment of the fuel distributor from the bottom. I'd even be willing to pay a known professional to do the job for me, but can't seem to find anyone still in the business of tuning these old mechanical fuel injection systems.
So you can adjust the flow from the top on that KE-Jetronic. On my '88 300SE, with the 0 436 101 012 FD, the only way you can adjust the flow is from the bottom.
That's k' jetronic fuel flow is adjusted on top. KE jetronic is adjusted from bottom. On KE you can also screw syringe barrel to the fuel outlet ports six or eight of them and adjust fuel flow outlet,when full you pour the fuel by turning the unit upsidedown unti you get same flow I have very good knowledge and experience especially on KE(continuous injection system electronic) Normally there's no need to adjust fuel flow,😂 cleaning is very important on this units contains filters finefilters of which gets dirty.This system works against pressure and spring once you mess with springs you will never get proper flow.Flow is adjusted as outlet flow without injectors😂.Adjusting fuel flow with injectors might make the process longer
Very good explanation! I'm just learning about the CIS systems, & I question if new Bosch injectors should be flow matched before installation? Is there any kind of aftermarket inline filter that can be added between the injector & fuel distributor to protect new injectors?
Great work! I did this with the original fuel lines much the same way you have done it, but I wasn’t as meticulous with the three flow rate tests. I can’t remember now which flow rate I used, but I got them all within 10% of each other, which I read in the manual. I wonder if I was looking at a different source than you. My engine is very smooth except there is some vibration at high (>3000) RPM under acceleration. Not sure if it’s because I need to tune it further or something else.
Thanks, I am trying to keep the video's short. Feel free to slow down and pause using the youtube controls. There is more detail on the installing the pressure gauge and switch in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gv_drocUEKo.html
Very very nice. Thank you. I wonder if the different length and elevation of the test lines makes a difference in the flowrate...Anyway, would a port which doesn't inject or injects very little need adjusting? How do they get out of sequence?
If one port injects very little, then it is probably clogged, not an adjustment issue. Could be the injector is clogged or injector valve spring has gone bad; that is the easiest to replace. Or something could block the slot in the plunger or the bore of the valve for that port in the fuel distributor. You might try to flush that with carb cleaner.
Perfect timing, I am in the middle of a derelict 450SL fuel distributor rebuild. Thank you for sharing your take on this! You reference a manual for this Bosch unit- Is this something you could share or point us towards?
I was referring to the table on this page in the shop manual for the 380SL: www.tonk.ca/r107CD1/Program/Engine/107/M116_38/07.3-160.pdf. You'll find the manual for the 450 there as well. The language on this table is confusing. Also reading through the test instruction on the following pages, I interpreted "Air flow sensor plate fixed at ... cc/min" as fix your airflow plate in a position to get this ml/min fuel flow per cylinder. And "Max. dissipation in cc/min" should mean max dispersion, difference or variance per cilinder in my interpretation. Good luck with yours.
Thanks. Yes, the the engine is running smooth now with this distributor tuning (I'll post that in upcoming videos). I realize some say the specialized shops tune these distributors to much higher accuracy, but this seems to work OK for me for now.
do you mean it stated pouring as soon as you power the pump? Could indeed be internals, or it could also be the plunger not sliding down completely, or the air sensor plate lever not returning completely. Or if all of that seems to work fine, the set screw might be turned extremely rich (I believe that is all the way clockwise, so you would need to return that counterclockwise to make it stop).
wow, I never knew we could control the fuel for each of the "pipes". I have one where the mechanic showed be had much less pressure. Do I use a 3mm Allen key? Clockwise or anticlockwise
yes 3mm allen key. CW is more fuel, CCW is less. This is a balancing system; if you give one cilinder more, all others get less. Work in very small increments; I did 1/16 - 1/8 turns at a time. see 8:50
The injector lines do have that kind of a washer, that is why I added it. Even with the bubble flare, the lines sink a bit below the top of the in the fuel distributor connections, which makes me think they are necessary to avoid leaks.
