I love when y’all are doing old 2 cylinders. I restore a lot of farm equipment and sure wish your shop was closer. Getting harder to find machinist around here that want to work on Ag equipment.
When i was a kid My dad built a log splitter from an old hand crank 2 cylinder John Deere combine engine we got outta my uncle's field in southern Maryland. I don't remember the year of it but we honed it and put new rings and i remember it had to run with non detergent oil. I think he said it was a 16hp motor
I always pressed out removable valve guides. I do a lot of custom one-off work and old valve guides make perfect mandrels for turning between centers . And they are a constant source of bushings and spacers.
Ditto on the clean shop and attention to all the details. I can count on one hand the young men who know how and like their job in a machine shop....... keep up the good quality work.
Will have to give you guys a call. Restoring a model B this winter that needs head and possible cylinder work and possibly turning up a 630 to be my second puller
Not meanin' to give myself a pat on the back but surely those who enjoy watching your videos are both mechanically inclined and of solid intelligence. And don't you know that we all appreciate both your successes and your failures. Like Jack Webb of TV's Dragnet fame honestly remarked about getting cops: "the problem with finding PERFECT cops is you have to choose from HUMANS." Keep up the good show guys!
Hey I just found your videos and really enjoy them. I’m starting to consider this as a job and was wondering if your recommended the job and how often does the average machinist work on engines because they’re the most interesting part of it to me.
I've been told by some old two cylinder boys that if a old two cylinder Deere has weak valve springs they won't idle right. May only idle on one cylinder. I personally haven't run into this yet, but best to check those valve springs.
What is the interference fit between the new seats and the head? It amazes me that they don't drop, it's pretty cool ! Also, just curious, why don't you surface after all the valve work is done? so the surfaces don't get scratched.
I owned a Model H, and after purchasing it, found the cylinders would fill with water from cooling system overnight. Horrible installation by someone of sleeves in cylinders. Tore it down , had head trued, new sleeves professionally installed, new babbit bearings poured for the rods. After all of that, still got water in cylinders. Went back for another set of head gaskets, and ran into a "old timer" who heard my issues being discussed. He told me to take the all metal head gaskets and spray paint a couple of coats of paint on them and let them dry, then install. Never had another problem.
Is copper coat spray ok ? I know my metal head gasket on my little h was coated with that after the overhaul I installed a grey one with fire rings but didn't spray it. Had some coolant in the crankcase . I think I have it stopped with stop leak. Lately these aluminum engines are giving me similar fits . I think I will be spraying head gaskets and use new head bolts. Thanks for the insight.
@@ronaldgodden4490 All I used was something like Krylon spray paint. You are just filling in the tiny scratches that you cant even see. Couple of coats, allowing drying between times. Fixed my issue completely. Had the tractor for several years and never leaked.
a 3 angle valve job on that type head is kind of counter productive. As eventually it will carbon up on the non seat angles. And you are reducing the amount of available seat to valve area. which is going to reduce the service life of the valve job witch is generally the most important factor on that kind of application. In my opinion.
Will this JD be in a field or parade? Or is it for tractor racing? I bet the resale value of older tractors went up when the manufacturers began making new ones too technical for on-farm repair.
As a fellow engine machinist why don’t you do the valve work and then surface it? That way you don’t have to be so worried about scratching the head gasket surface.
On Diesel, I surface first just for the reason of being able to accurately set valve protrusion/recession. On everything else it just depends on the work flow of the shop & what machine is open. In this case, I knew the surfacing machine was about to be tied up w/ the block fixture for boring/decking blocks... so I got the surface out of the way first. I agree it’s nice not to have to worry about scratching the nice surface, but at the same time it’s just not really that big of a deal as I’m careful not to damage the surface regardless lol Just the way things go in our shop 🙃
If i wanted my cyl honed for new rings what type of hone would you use for a ls2 i was under the impression that a honing machine would be used right or would a ding ball hone be used at a machine shop
The reason I ask is because I brought 6.0l ls in becouse the piston bent a valve i wanted the valve seat repaired guide checked.and a new valve piston rings and coated bearings i gave the the machine shop the block with rotating assy and heads what i got was dingle ball honed he forgot the seat and quickly repaired it while i waited with a stone all of 5min i assembled it with all new parts dod delete cam lifters pushrods springs trunion gaskets and so on 4 weeks later again ptv contact is this a bad or lazy machine shop
Seems I’m the first to comment on this, but if you watch to the very last second of the video, it seems that you get to see a rare screwup and possible damage to a piston!