I’ve owned a cj7, 2 YJ, LJ, TJ, JKU and 2 XJs. For the price and throwing the family in, the XJ has been my favorite although the XJ price around here has went up especially for the 97+.
I have a '95 K2500 Chevy Suburban lifted with a 454 very much like yours....uses a 6'' Pro Comp lift with 305/70R/16 tires and wheels.I've had it for 13 years now and it's still going strong(266,xxx miles).Love that thing :)
I am so excited for this video series. XJ's and LS's go together really well but there's just not a we'll documented series of making it work. Thanks a million LT!
I have done this swap, move the motor back to with in a half an inch of the fire wall. You will gain so much more room for the radiator plumbing, the throttle body and the air intake. Thanks for the great videos.
Wow, about the same amount of time as a 30 minute network show but here I actually learned a lot. Thank you! I’m glad you got your time on tv to get your name out there but RU-vid is your calling, you can show off you aren’t just a “sponsored part” installer but a truly gifted fabricator. Keep up the great work, love the content.
Thanks for sharing. Maybe a goal for this 62 year old to take my lifted '01 XJ and put in a LS. I did my transfer case slip yoke eliminator while it was still in the vehicle. It was rather easy. Enjoying the series.
taking apart a t-case with no safety glasses. The snap rings on those things scare the crap out of me lol. It's like bringing a new set of guitar strings up to pitch for the first time.
Double check the front driveshaft since it won't work up front. See if it fits out back now. Those dang xjs are pretty decent when it comes to being able to flip flop parts around
So the other day I messaged you here about my vortec 8100 misfire issue .... crazy but it's fixed itself.... I started the truck and its running great not throwing codes and drives perfectly.... soo crazy .... I bought the truck drove it for 9 months had a radiator issue that took me a year to get to... then it ran rough since when I would start it from time to time .... the one time I drove it while it ran rough it bucked like crazy going down the road ... now all of a sudden its idle is great its driving great .... i literally did nothing but start it from time to time to clean leaves in the driveway.... and magically it's working.... just figured I'd give you the update....
Looking great LT! Cant wait to see this thing ripping up some trails. Love the fact you are doing all this stuff with basic tools, no lifts or crazy expensive tools that us average people can't afford.
Hi JT, Nice project. I've been accumulating parts to do the same to my '99 Jeep Cherokee. I have a 5.3 L33 out of a 2005 Silverado to use. The car is a manual with the 5 speed and plan to keep it that way. Yes I know about Novak and plan to use some of what they sell. Being retired and fixed income I just can't go out and buy every single thing, so being creative is what I need to do. I need to keep it simple. I have an MSD LS Ignition controller. A Edelbrock carb manifold came with the engine. Maybe you can do a video on this kind of swap keeping simple like us backyard mechanics would do. Keep the great videos coming, have a great day!!
Novak sells two types of A/C brackets and compressors. One is similar to the setup here. The other one sites below the one used here and closer to the engine. I know some people don't want the A/C compressor below as they want to keep it away from water and dirt …etc. But for those that don't mind and want to keep the battery in its original place, that's a good bracket/AC combo to consider.
LT check out anaerobic gasket maker (PN 51813 Permatex) for machined flange mating surfaces it makes a cleaner and nicer seal compared to using RTV on flanged mating surfaces. There is a primer/cleaner (PN 24163 Permatex) if you need a quicker cure time. Use product sparingly since machined surfaces should nearly seal without additional sealer to avoid product entering the transfer case and entering oil pick ups. If you let the anaerobic cure fully it will not contaminate like RTV as the excess RTV breaks off into the oil when too much is used and clogs oil passages. You will not got back to RTV for machined surface sealing.
When you put the transfer case back together make sure not to use too much sealer, it squeezes out on the inside and eventually ends up clogging the pick up screen for the oil pump.
LT - I appreciate your enthusiasm.and confidence. On watching your workshop I wished my dad was still with us so we could build you a nice bench or two. I used his garage and pit quite a bit as a young man. Having a nice big place to work and store your stuff is important. And why didn't you wash up that case first?
They are actually called kiwi rings idk why but they make kiwi pliers which are actually affordable I'm going to buy a set myself this week I build alot of sye for friends and myself
great job that trasfer case looks like it never had an fluid change...and you are right it looks like it was found in a lake lol...put a hood scoop on it to clear the throttle body ..?..
There is an improvement mod that sometimes needs to be done to the oil pump. Often depending on the transfer case the oil pump will wear its way out of the transfer case and cause a massive leak and destroy the bearings and gears. The mod is a steel cradle that fits into the housing and provides an alternative wear surface. It also tightens up the gap so the pump doesn’t chatter about as much also reducing wear. There is a DIY mod where you grab some JB Weld and some packing tape and make your own cradle. First you carefully cover the tabs on the pump with a single layer of tape, then you mix up the epoxy and coat where the pump will contact the case, press the pump into the epoxy until it is seated and clean away any squeeze out. Let it set up the remove the pump and clean off the tape. The pump is now sitting so much tighter that it won’t chatter it will also need to eat through the epoxy before starting on the case. The bearings and gears will probably go long before it eats the epoxy through.
Hopefully you install the case saver on the oil pump its just a metal shim type thing stops oil pump from rubbing on case the number one failure of that case is pump earing holes in case
Man, you really need a parts washer with some good solvent, it would save on the price of brake parts cleaner, and keep you away from the harsher chemicals. Harbor Freight has one and it is very good for the price (the one I got is, don’t know how others are).
Awesome build👍Did you use tge Advance Adapters 716202 - Advance Adapters NP231 Transfer Case 27-Spline Input Gears to bolt the 4l60 to the 231J transfer case, as well as the Novak adapter? I'm researching parts for my LQ4/4l65e XJ swap. if you were to do it again would you do it the same or use a NP transfer case from GM. Thanks
just put my 4.6 stroker in my xj. need to do a SYE. I'm getting a little driveline vibration. my np242 wont go in to low gear for some reason. It feels like it does even exist when I try to shift past neutral on the t- case. it worked years ago but I just got in the road for the first time in about 10 years after the engine rebuild.
fyi the s10 style transfer case the housings bolt pattern is different. it has 5 bolts not 6 like a normal gm but mine was an 87 i would think the input shaft would still be what u need being 27 spline 700r4 and t5 had 27 spline
I don't mean to sound like a naysayer, but I would urge you to verify where you heard about the transfer case numbering system. NP208 and NP232c/f/j definitely don't follow that scheme, and then there's the NP203 and NP205 transfer cases that are likely the most beefy-strong transfer cases made by the New Process coordination. As far as I am aware, the numbering system was and is simply by order of the generation they were designed chronologically.
I have a question about your assertation on the NP and NV transfer case numbers? What about the NP205? As I recall they were pretty tough. Great vids, Love the Xj content
So glad you’re doing this swap because this has been on my mind and watching this should solidify some questions I have. One thing I noticed was that the planetary set had 6 pinions instead of 3 which means it also has a 1.25” wide chain instead of 1.0”. Can you confirm that or is this a rare case or maybe from a gm or something. Thanks man.
So when you are talking about the meaning of the 3 digit numbers of the np transfer cases, you are saying that the middle digit gives a scale of the strength of the t-case.....ok but what does a 0 mean like in a np205?
Couldn’t you have cut out some of the inner fender well to mount battery parallel with the fender and then boxed it in. Or would that interfere with tire clearance?
So why go with the Advanced Adapters NP231 input shaft instead of Novak's 4l60 output shaft? Especially if the 231 is the weak link, it would be easier to replace without having to change the input shaft every time.
yes just did this, believe the gm 231 came out of an older s10 4x4. then just used the jeep back half on it. plus the gm 231 has a stronger chain than the jeep 231
I have an 1985 jeep Cherokee pioneer with an ol 2.8 amc engine (junk) and I wanna keep it carbed so what transmission would you drop in with a 350 Chevy v8
Hi, What about 4 lo position and shifting pionts as your vss is is between trans and transfer case , so there no difference in speed for 4h or 4lo to pcm Do you need to connect 4lo switch ?
Is the monster transmission 46re for the 01 ram any good lookimg to do a hemi swap but i need a strong transmission for my 4x4 hemi swap in my 01 ram 1500 4x4
