In this video I'll discuss the first set of repairs I needed to do to the tractor, including draining and cleaning the transmission, some electrical, and a few other items.
Thanks for the videos. Picked up one of these about 15 years ago when I bought some property in the country. It ran briefly then slowly lost power and died. Didn't know anything about tractors and couldn't find a lot of information at the time. Gear box was full of water and number four cylinder was thick with oil. Compression was low. Haven't been able to get it to start since and no time to work on it. It's been begging for attention ever since. Now, with your videos I might try it again. Look forward to the next video. Paul2
What front inn loader bucket ?that will fit a G650. Mine has the place for it.but did not have the loader or bucket . When I bought it... Is there a universal running loader bucket that will fit.?
I was wondering if you ever finished your Satoh 650? Your Part one came up on my feed this morning so I watched as well as part two. I have the feeling you are rather new to the tractor world; correct me if I am wrong? I grew up farming and in high school when they sold the Satoh new. Later the brand was purchased and became part of Mitsubishi. The front end problem you experienced is common even when they were nearly new. These tractors really were not built heavy enough for using front end loaders. I know Sheaffer tractor in Illinois salvaged them for parts. With your milk float it is good to run diesel fuel though them for 10 to 15 minutes without working the tractor then to drain it. If you need parts Sheaffer's can be a good source. Your rear wheels were likely loaded with calcium, it will eat them to no end. It is better to replace the wheels rather than blow out and chew up the sidewall of a tire. If you fill us a product like Rim Guard. Those old gas engines were designed to run on lead and it is a good idea to add a lead substitute. Iseki, Hinomoto and Yanmar are great brands either in gray market or regular imports. Iseki and Hinomoto make their own tractors and units for brands like Massey. Yanmar built the entire first John Deere compact line. In my experience I shy away from engines built by Mitsubishi as even in the cars they build they use second rate rings. Moreover, as it stands now I would not buy a tractor using a Mitsubishi engine. I shy away from brands like LS who relies largely on Mitsubishi engines. LS built the Farmtrac small 4x4 units and they are a so hard to keep up. The larger tractors were built by Escort and are bullet proof. As far as having a small 2wd drive tractor with a loader; most tractors don't fair well. Even if you don't have any hills a 4x4 tractor is a better balance for a loader more force is had and more loader stability. A 4x4 offers much more in terms of front end strength. Hope you are doing well with the tractor? Remember not all tractors are created equal and it is the reason some as they age have compound problems.
I’d like to see your steering arm repair! I was just thinking about welding the arm to the spline, but I don’t want to complicate removal if need be. I also thought about drilling and tapping in the valley of opposing splines and running 2 grade 8 bolts as kind of a wedge, again with the possibility of ruining both parts. I’m curious as to what you’ve come up with. Great videos and I’m looking forward to Pt. 3!
My fix used JB Weld and it's held well enough at the moment but it's already loosening up and will need a more permanent fix. Unfortunately to do this right I am going to need to do some machine work, but I think using one of the universal style 1" sockets cut up and welded into the arm might do the trick. I will probably work on that later this year and will be sure to document it!
There is a metal screen filter located on the inlet side of the tank. When standing behind the tractor on your right hand side there is a large plug that you can unscrew to remove the screen and clean it out. You do have to drain the fluid out of the tank first though. There is a smaller plug that is the drain plug on the right hand side as well.
hi good video ,, i need a carburetor kit for one like this ,,any idea .?. the one on eBay is not usable , the parts look right but don't fit .. Thanks Ed Loretto Ontario Canada
I actually did use one of the Ebay kits, but while most of the gaskets do fit well enough, I had to make one of the gaskets myself (can't recall offhand which one) and you have to disassemble the pump plunger to replace the leather cup as the plunger provided in the kits do not really fit right, but the cup is the right size.
How did you replace the PTO seal? Did you remove the whole cover or just the collar ring? I have read stories that people can't replace the seal and end up just putting it back together without replacing it...
I pulled it out using a seal puller. It's basically a steel hook that you slip in between the shaft and the seal and then you can pry it out. No need to remove the cover to replace the PTO seal. Once it's pulled out just clean it up and then drive in the new one. Make sure to clean up any burrs and lubricate the shaft first to help keep the new seal intact. You'll want to use a short length of pipe that is the right diameter (I use exhaust pipe), or if you're very careful and go slow you can just drive it in a little in several spots repeatedly to keep it going in evenly. But using a length of pipe works best.
@@saturdayswithpaul7352 THANK YOU!!! So much for responding to my questions, it really made the whole process a little less stressful. We dropped the oil and it was horrendous! Really had no idea it had that much water in it (sooo much after it separated 😫 ) The seal came out easily, we used a hammer and flat chisel to get the new one back in. We have a family vlog and actually just uploaded our video, we mention you in it. Super appreciate your time. Have a good one!
I don't have any pictures of it apart but there is not much to it. The seal is replaced with the shaft still installed, no need to remove it. I actually don't think you can remove the PTO shaft without first removing the seal anyway.
