That sounds like a very smooth running saw for the price. To get the blade perpendicular to the table, make a shallow cut in the tallest piece of wood you can fit in the saw, then turn the saw off and move the piece of wood, same side up, to the *_back side_* of the blade. If the blade is not perpendicular to the table, the cut you just made will not be parallel to the blade. Adjust until both cut and back of blade match up.
I clipped my snark guitar tuner on the screen of my cell phone and read that c# on your blade!!!😀😀.I bought a Ryobi scroll saw at The Home Depot here in Traverse City Michigan for guitar repair/work and for youth programs at our Salvation Army. No attached light but very very simular. It's still in the box. Thanx for the videos Love the accent. I'm planning on using my air compressor instead of a vacuume (at least try it out)
first thing, I would take the clear plastic guard and the hold down guard off and put them in the accessory drawer. also, you should turn the scroll saw 90 degrees and stand in front of the saw. you will find that it will be easier to control the cuts as you go along. my dust collection is a 20" fan with a filter taped to it and a hand broom for when I am done cutting. great review, love your channel:>)
The part they call the Foot is a workpiece hold down and generally removed by most people because it gets in the away more than it helps. You would hold the piece down with your fingers if removed. However I noticed the blower is attached to it so you would have to rig up something to allow the blower to work. Dust extraction rarely if ever works with scroll saws. Congrats on your new tool!
My first scroll saw was a Hegner, which is regarded by many as one of the best. Personally, I'm not convinced. In all fairness, it did last me almost 40 years (and the motor is still going strong and currently serving to power a homemade sanding disk) but I never got on with the blade clamping system. It's much the same as your Record. It's a fiddle to change blades and (as youv'e probably discovered by now) the blade clamps fly off when the blade breaks. I finally replaced it with a Peugeot (yes, they make scroll saws too) a few years ago. At a fraction of the price of a Hegner, they are, in my opinion, far superior. Time will tell if the motor holds out as well but changing blades is a quick and simple process and it is robust and smooth in operation. My only real criticism of the Peugeot is that it lacks a hold down (or 'drop foot') and there is no means to attach one without some engineering. With regard to the plastic blade guard, almost all scroll sawyers discard this. It serves no real safety function (except, perhaps, preventing the blade clamps from going into orbit when the blade breaks) and obscures the view of the point-of-cut where the blade meets the line on the work... particularly once you've kicked up a bit of dust (with or without effective extraction).
Hi Susan Really enjoy your videos - thanks for for sharing your experiences! The blade holders (in fact the entire machine) looks indentical with the Sheppach I have just bought. You’ve probably discovered it for yourself by now, but for those that may not have, it is possible to mount pinless blades at 90 degrees. There is an additional pair of empty tapped holes in each blade holder block at right angles to the ones the set screws are shipped in. By transferring the set screws to these holes, you can turn the blade through 90 degrees. The blade holder blocks mount normally as these have not moved with respect to their mounting points. Hope this helps.
I would suggest .... get rid of the dust collector hose .... get rid of the plastic blade guard "drop foot" (it will constantly be in your way and only use the pinless blades if you have them. good luck ... nat
I have one of these and I made a couple of mods to make life easier. I use pinless blades all the time so first I removed the panel on the left side to make access to the bottom blade holder easier as I found when doing internal cuts with pinless blades the bottom holder kept falling off when passing through holes in the work piece. To overcome this I fitted a piece of old credit card under the bottom bar using the existing screw and that traps the blade block in place but still allows the block to be removed easily. When I had centred the screws in the blocks I marked one side with Tippex so that side was always fixed. I replaced one of the top block Allen screws with a 4mm knob so blades can be quickly undone without an Allen key to pass the blade through holes. I marked one of the sections of the tensioning knob with Tippex so that when doing repetitive cuts 2 turns took the tension on and off without having to keep checking the blade. I'm still looking for a quicker way of doing that. I hope you get as much pleasure from yours as I'm having from mine.
While I'm sure it is a fine saw, the cumbersome "no tool" blade change would drive me crazy. I am a top feeder, but top or bottom, can you imagine changing blades 50 or 60 times in a project? I have a Hegner (locked in a closet for just that reason) a DeWalt 788 and a 21" Excaliber which is my daily saw. I have had the DeWalt for 10 years and have had absolutely NO problems, the Excalibur for 4 with no problems. For the price and convenience you cannot do better than the DeWalt. For tilted cutting, the Excalibur is tops. And yes, Seyco still has them and full range of supplies, if ever needed. Good video, keep them coming
that is the saw i use and have created some large incredibly detailed pieces with it(which you can see on my channel lol), its a great saw for the money, would recommend it any day of the week and twice on Sundays
There are comments on most scroll saw reviews about the ineffective dust blower. This is so easy to put right which I thought any practical person would have done. However, before doing this small modification look at the position of the nozzle in the above video. It is at least an inch (25mm) above the workpiece and therefore it will be ineffective. Because of the bend in the metal tube of the nozzle it is difficult to position it . Answer? Pull the plastic tube off the top of the bellows and cut about 1inch (25mm) off the end. Re-attach the tube to the bellows and fit the small piece on the end of the metal tube.To do this you may need to cut the squashed end off the metal tube so allow for this when you cut the plastic tube. It is then a matter of trimming the end of the small plastic tube until it fits next to the blade but on top of the hold-down fork. Now that the new plastic nozzle is close to the blade and workpiece you will have made it effective...simple!!
Nice review, just ordered one so this will be of help. Not sure why everyone says use pinless blades as they clearly take longer to fit when having to make a lot of internal cuts. Maybe because of the thickness. As to your Vac, I think you have an odd sized hose pipe as I would guess there is a standard set of sizes for all machinery.
This saw looks like a slightly improved version of the Central Machinery scroll saw which sells for about 70 dollars here in the US. It is a really excellent saw when using pinned blades. It is good that the pinned blades can be installed sideways, so that you can make much longer cuts. In that regard, it works like a fine bladed band saw. The pinless blade holder is poorly designed, as the blade holder is only hung from, but not attached to the body, and tends to drop off while you are moving the blades from hole to hole, as you need to do when doing fretwork.
Hi Susan, I think it would be safer and easier, to cut the smaller curve 1st, while you still have a larger work piece to hold onto and manipulate. Keep up the good work.
I have just started using a scheppac saw which has everything same as yours.Found the foot a big help holding down work changing blades for interior cuts is a nightmare I found the guard ok. Access to installing an unpinned blade is very limited and when I thread thro a hole while I fit the top of blade bottom one flips off.Also the foot and guard do not help here when threading through.Maybe I will find it easier later on.The foot and shield can be twisted to the right.I also think pinned blades might be easier.
Apart from the light it looks the same as my Axminster. Seems to be a number of different brands that all use the same machine just with a different brand name.
Susan, if that was mine I would remove the table tilt nut and replace it with just a straight nut and buy a little wrench to tighten or loosen it with. Just a thought.
Looks impressive, especially compared to one I used to own. At least yours will cut a straight line, my old one would wander off a straight line and snap the blade! I assumed it was the set on the blade's teeth, but to be honest, I never was happy with it. Guess it's my fault for buying such a device from Aldi :)
Thanks a lot for your video... Ended up getting one like yours... Struggling though when need to do inside cuts as the blade clamps are really fiddly and hard to install with the workpiece... Did you find that too? any way around that? Thank you
If you have the teeth of the saw blade facing down I think this will stop the work piece chattering and possibly may not need the foot of the saw to hold the piece down. Just a thought
NO, the vacuum cleaner is only used to create the airflow for the BLOWER on the top, aka a venturi which causes air to flow up the other tube to the blade nozzle ! This is because it's designed for a "home" space, therefore you are not likely to have an air compressor around , But a vacuum cleaner IS a likely source of air you WILL have around, so the air is created from this source!!
I've just bought the Aldi Workzone one for £60 and I see it's the same as the Record, the Sceppac and the Wen. Must all be made in the same factory, probably from the land of the rising sun.
If you look around the machine with the side cover off its just a mass of holes and gaps and it seems like the vac draws air through them rather than the blade area.
Take the foot off and toss it! Get rid of the blade hard it will always be in your way! Just don't stick your finger in the blade! Just below the dust port is a huge hole that needs taped up so your dust collection will even have a chance of working!
My fretsaw is not good at all. It resembles yours Susie, and it was really dear at the time. It wanders all over the place so I prefer to use a hand saw. I had a Hobbies treadle saw what my Dad got in Manchster in,1963, it never wandered at all. Shame it got thrown away, so the electric saw is a disappointment. Building a fence made no difference. Mine is made in India, but they say the Suzuki cars are good made in India, Mahrinda was different.
I bought one the same last year and after all the fiddling about like I have just watched you do I took the hold down foot off and as for using pinless blades it was just a pain, how a company like record power could put a saw like that on the market with blade holders is beyond me, I sent mine back and bought one that takes both type off blade much easier.
William Donnelly surely pinless blades are so you don't have to drill a start hole big enough to allow pins through on the pinned blades? Record equipment, like everything else nowadays is produced in China.
i bought a katsu scroll saw . which is more or less identical to this and many other cheaper makes of scroll saw . changing a blade is a pain in the butt . I've used it a couple of times. but not impressed with it. need a dewalt or Excalibur scroll saw
This looks like the Harbor Freight scroll saw, but with out the plastic grad and light. The port is the same, it doesn't suck out the dust very good too. Here is a link if you want to check it out. www.harborfreight.com/16-in-variable-speed-scroll-saw-62519.html They have many cheap priced wood working tools
+Brendan Horgan I don't see the blade holder listed as an accessory in their catalogue but I'd imagine you could order them from Record Power. Personally I'd just use pinned blades as they're so much easier. An internal cut would have to be incredibly intricate for you not to be able to use a pinned blade.
You are a very funny Lady , at times you had me in stitches laughing i know you wasn't trying to be funny , Very dry sense e of humor i guess, i have subbed, TC
+Janis Perkons The blades are fairly cheap so it's not a problem if the blade blunts or fails by cutting metal. Metal sheet I'd say is fine - and I will do that for inlay. I'm not sure about thicker metal but I don't think it would harm it.
+Janis Perkons not sure where in the world you are but here's a uk store www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section/8611/sn/RPWSSBPINR3050#.V-Q47ut4WrU You can use pretty much any blade with this saw - the lengths are universal
Yes, it is easy. It works best with sheet metal 20 gauge up to1/4 inch (5 mm), but with some patience, you can also cut bars or rods up to 8 mm. Use the plain end blade holder and get jewelers saw blades. you can find them online or at jewelers supply stores. jewelers blades come in different tooth sizes depending on how thick the metal you want to cut. Wood cutting blades are too soft and coarse to use on metal. I've cut copper, brass, steel, and aluminum. Silver is also easy, but you want to have some system to save the sawdust, since it is valuable. It will require some practice, because jewelers blades are quite brittle and break easily, but once you get the hang of it, it's much easier than using a jewelers saw.
It was originally nicknamed "Duck" tape in WWII, since it was a water resistant tape. After the war HVAC guys started using it to connect Ducting pieces together, so they ended up calling it "Duct" tape. The younger generation had no clue that the "Duck" tape moniker was the original one, so idiots demanding everyone respect how smart they be, forced everyone to start calling it "Duct" tape. The idiots still can not stop themselves from "correcting" anyone who uses the original term. It's why we have an "Enhanced" Fujita Scale, since the idiots learned the original one was based on what tornadoes destroyed; even though it did have theoretical wind speed/size estimations. So when Doppler radar gave us those answers, we should of just went with that, but they forced the "Enhanced" version. Which is the original one, but we get to use the description that was always there. The military calls it either "75 mile per hour tape" or "100 mile per hour tape" etc. now to stop the idiots from having any say; it's based on the wind speed the tape should be able to withstand. Though I wish our lighting gaffers adopted it, since gaffer tape would shut up the idiots.
had one , sent it back, got another motor connections broke, very noisy not impressed, boughjt a different make in the end much better, RP dosn;t live up to the advertising!!
Sorry Derrick, I clearly read the wrong thing in your comment so thanks for clearing that up. Please accept my my apology and happy scrolling for all of us.
